Engine not turning completely :(

A bit in the left one, and a lot in the right one. Middles ones were fine

Side note: what product is best to clean it? White spirits? Diesel?

Diesel will work, but some light scraping with a plastic scraper works fine - be careful not to scratch the piston. If you want to get them really clean, follow up the scraping with a wipe with a diesel soaked rag.

Hmmmm... carbon build up is normal. If you're not seing chunks in there, I'd think it was something else. Block spins freely, now?

I'm noticing 3's crown is much cleaner than the rest. Was the HG leaking?

-Todd

There were chunks. Guess more fell trough then I thought when I cleaned the intakes :/

What I started with:

Then took some thinner to clean it up a bit (had no diesel around) and a razor blade to remove the last traces of the gasket. Ended up with this:


Can I use some sandpaper (like 8000 or 12000 grit) to slightly wet sand it? Or leave it as it is now?

No need to sand. Just let 'er buck!

Rather than sandpaper, I would use a scotchbrite pad to lightly scuff before gasket installation. Just make sure all of the old gasket is off the block, and the block is clean and dry.

so let-me ask. that carbon is from your cleaning the intake runners? and now you have your intake clean(as well)?
top of block and mating head surface donot get sanded. some moisture in upper cyls?? fav of mine, a ring or more of lube, here, now check, for 1 you can turn motor over, make sure its clear, find tdc(after turning), i mark the pulley(side), for an apx tdc mark, now turn back 90dg and your (should be) (all even)ready for the next step. gl, looks like youve made progress, and may end^up ok, well see.

Engine block is fine. I'll get my rebuild head back from the shop next week.

Question: my rebuild shop says I better change the crankshaft sprocket. He says they tend to come loose on high mileage. Is this true?

I'd remove and at least check it. If it looks good and fits nicely, just get a new bolt.

-Todd

I'm kinda anxious to remove it. It looks securely locked in place And I heard it's a difficult install (hard torque and easy to go wrong). Seems more can go wrong by installing a new one then letting the original one stay in place :/

Not hard to install a new one, and they are cheap (like $25) insurance. The "D" shaped recess can wear out and make valves hit pistons, especially on an AHU as they were not equipped with a one way clutch on the alternator.

Replacing involves a largish counter-hold tool, but is not hard to do at all.

As above, you need a new bolt any time you remove or replace the sprocket.

lisab4 said:

I heard it's a difficult install (hard torque and easy to go wrong).

Click to expand...

It's a bolt... nothing complicated. Lightly oil the shoulder and threads then torque it to 66lbs. Get an additional 90° angle on it and you're done.

Buy, borrow or make a counter hold tool. This guy did it with a lawnmower blade and a piece of his old HB.
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=478577

I made mine from some scrap .25" steel. It doesn't need to be pretty, just functional.

Personally, I'd rather use a "good" used sprocket, rather than an aftermarket sprocket. I've read a few posts where people said the aftermarkets don't fit as well.

If you have it in your budget, the OE sprocket was around $70, last time I checked. I bought 2 crank bolts from the dealership and I think they were around $5 each.

Worst case scenario, order the $25 sprocket if needed and test the fit. If you like it, keep it. At this point, what's a few extra days, waiting for a part?

-Todd

Windex, it's a 1Z. I'll think about replacing it but it looks ok and there's no play on it. I'm in way over my head. I have no mechanic background and I'mlearning as I do. Fun but scary

If there is literally no rotational play on the sprocket, and the crank snout is unmarked - then the sprocket is fine to reuse. The only problem is that the only way to check for sure (and check the crank) is to remove the old bolt and inspect the crank directly with the sprocket off.

There have been too many instances of timing belt replacements where the crank pulley starts to "walk" after the install, that gurus (myself included) will not replace the timing belt unless they remove the bolt and inspect the crank / pulley on an AHU or 1Z (and then replace the bolt and torque properly). Making sure that all surfaces are very clean and dry, and that one is able to get the new bolt to the correct torque plus 90 degrees.

There are a few threads on TDIclub about how to fabricate a holding tool (including two posts above).

I looked again, but can feel no play at all on the sprocket. I'll leave it, but I'll keep an eye on it. I'll change it at the next timing belt job.

You won't feel any play if the bolt is on. The play only occurs with a load (belt) or if you undo the bolt and check.

I'm usually an if it aint broke don't fix it type of guy but in this case I think I'd go with what Windex is suggesting.

You've got the motor out, presumably on a stand so you have good access, the belt is already off, you're waiting on parts (I think). Go for it.

Remember that on the AHU you oil the threads and mating surface of the bolt.

Rebuilt head


parts:


Motor is in the car at the moment unfortunately, but I've decided to replace the sprocket. The risk isn't worth it. Just hope I don't f*ck this up. I should write a book "fixing your car with no mechanical background and only the internet to help"

Are you OK to fabricate a holding tool for the crank, in order to change that sprocket?

The shop that rebuilt the head is going to lend me the tools Very nice guy
I'll do it in a week or two. Just have to check how I'm going to to it. The counterhold tool has a long extension and is made for a car on a bridge. I only have a floor Might try working from above.

nice lookin' rebuilt head.
the thing about that sprocket. the main crank timing sprocket. getting 1st the torque right, not hard. oh yea 1st pull apart and visual; once you have (NEW) bolt torque correct. its the 90dg turn. i, by hand, can most of the 90dg turn, ends up when i did it i ended up snapping a 1/2"drive extension, by hand. i had/have got 3/16 of the 90dg turn?? about. to get the rest i figure i am goin' 2 need 3/4"drive accessories, including finding a puny 19mm(or 3/4) 12pt socket @3/4"drive. and then the extensions as well. a lil' expensive, not exactly cheap. the full 90dg turn had the 1/2" under (close) to full stress. an extension pipe and a few white out marks help. light oil on (NEW) bolt threads. (and prob on bolt face as well,,,).

Found this on some site. Is this the right procedure for installing the head?
http://www.fouga.be/1z/head_installation.pdf
The file says "Turn crankshaft against engine direction of rotation until all pistons are approximately equally placed below TDC.". Don't quite understand that step. What is the position they mean? And why do that if right above they state to turn it to TDC?

thats a pretty basic step there, i dont know what to tell ya'. 1 you set pistons (#1 that is) to TDC, i now mark the crank pulley so yo know where they are @90dg before(tdc that is, #1). this is so no piston(s) are at/or near tdc and can now block engine movement. remember when you put that nice (newer) looking head on, and tighten down head bolts, and other fasteners; the timing &belt are not hooked up or attached. in doing so, rotating crank 90dg back pistons have clearance, and in starting the timing procedure(later on) your now set up, you will now rotate so you can put #1 @TDC and start the timing procedure.

I think the initial TDC is a typo.

The reason they want all the pistons evenly below the deck is to make sure that valves don't hit pistons upon installation, as many head installs happen with the cam installed - which would have at least a couple valves open - valves which could hit pistons if the cam and crank are not already lined up when the head is lowered onto the block.

happen-2-4-get at this moment/stage-of-de-posts. where is that shop manual we had on order-4-u?heheh. almost all the steps are in the manual. looking at this site will tell you (*most) of the rest. as far a cyl head+install+timing&more, here. shop manual missy. will-do-you-good.

I don't think it's a typo. They say to do it that way to make sure when you rotate the engine CW to bring #1 up for the belt installation it is actually coming up.

If one were to simply position the pistons for clearance without thinking about it #1 might be past TDC making getting it to TDC with the head and cam in place difficult.

Doing it as suggested there's clearance to install the head and by rotating the crank forward he's ready to install the belt.

This is a good time to verify you can find the timing mark on the flywheel.

Windex said:

The reason they want all the pistons evenly below the deck is to make sure that valves don't hit pistons upon installation, as many head installs happen with the cam installed - which would have at least a couple valves open - valves which could hit pistons if the cam and crank are not already lined up when the head is lowered onto the block.

Click to expand...

a couple of things here, and a note on this as he says^ for the head install, cam is also in. even w/o cam 'currently' in (head), when you go to put cam in, and the steps involved, if #1 is @TDC when cam is put in, you come up on the same problem. if in this case #1 is @/near TDC, if cam is in,being put in, its something like 4 total valves in some stage of opening(even if as cam/engine rotates it may continue to close), the most important one, in this case, will usually be both (valves) of #4, as its at the top of cyl, getting ready for an intake run/stroke, in this exhaust +intake are now cycling @valve over-lap. if theres any question here, of space, there will be no 'cushion' and esp.as you run/tighten nuts/bolts/fasteners, the #1 thing to go will be where there is no space at a valve(s), a lifter (that one) will go with it, the cam can take a hit, oh if your installing that cam you can lose one of those cam/head block halves, generally if that happens expect the trash to soon handle the head its self. so turning those pistons back (1/2 way) will save you this. when you in the final stages, later now rotate crank forward to start timing you will now find out if that clearance is ok, if you do it right you ll end up losing nothing until you do it again, and hopefully get it correct. in saying such After final 1st set of mechanical timing, you will not rotate crank over 2x full times, can make girls out of big men, so dont back down. . this verifys all mechanicals have clearance, and you should be just about ready. thats a ways off, but still.. gl

Windex said:

I think the initial TDC is a typo.

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i doubt typo,,2. puts cyls (#1) in correct alignment. rotating (back)to TDC will end up being the first step to mech timing. also if all pistons are equal in cyls, and you rotate forward, in your typo theory would say apx. 50% of the time the next piston to reach a TDC will be #2&3. started off going the wrong way, theory would dictate, i suppose that is.