What if not Relay 109? Same exact symptoms.

Well I read thru the 2013 posts, the 2016 update by the OP (who hasn't posted since 2016) and no solution was given. OP was leaning towards a fuel problem. So reminiscent of the old days when guys would go right to the carburetor when 75% of the time it was primary ignition.
I'd say you're on the right track, disillubber. Read back thru paying special attention to greengeeker's posts, as he seemed the only one understanding the function. A brief car history and any persistent codes may help us interweb guess.

BobnOH said:

Well I read thru the 2013 posts, the 2016 update by the OP (who hasn't posted since 2016) and no solution was given. OP was lening towards a fuel problem. So reminiscent of the old days when guys would go right to the carburetor when 75% of the time it was primary ignition.
I'd say you're on the right track, disillubber. Read back thru paying special attention to greengeeker's posts, as he seemed the only one understanding the function. A brief car history and any persistent codes may help us interweb guess.

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Thank you for the encouragement Bob. I just hate cracking open the harness and tracing a wire to a break when I get power at source and dead at destination and only one wire. Yes I could parallel jump the wire but I'm terrified of blowing the ecu.

My ecu is 038 906 016 H and I cannot find a pinout for this. Bently is so inaccurate and the closest diagram I can find agrees with "greengeeker's" and others discription and I have circuits to that wire starting at the F32 and power at the other two fuses. Proves one wire (with a 1 to 2 splice somewhere). This has been a tough one for me. dl

P.S. AND what gets me is that if I turn key on/off 10 or 20 times, I'll get the cel and GP lights and it starts instantly. If I don't turn to start, I can run my codes that all say cannot connect and then clear them and start and I get my normal codes (one is a tranny broken switch in tiptronic I know about and ignore). This tells me I DO have a circuit and the ecu is good. I have an intermittent but pretty solid open.

disillubber said:

.............. but I'm terrified of blowing the ecu.
...............

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Just don't work it hot. Even when making solder connections, I disconnect from devices.
Electrics are not simple. I had a bad one once that passed continuity and volt check but was missing enough wire section that under use was not carrying the load. It's harder to check amperage but with an accurate meter you can spot bad wires by calculating wire size and length which gives a known resistance value. All technical junk aside, we usually find visual confirmation of bad wires/connects.
Here's hoping you find the issue soon!

BobnOH said:

Just don't work it hot. Even when making solder connections, I disconnect from devices.
Electrics are not simple. I had a bad one once that passed continuity and volt check but was missing enough wire section that under use was not carrying the load. It's harder to check amperage but with an accurate meter you can spot bad wires by calculating wire size and length which gives a known resistance value. All technical junk aside, we usually find visual confirmation of bad wires/connects.
Here's hoping you find the issue soon!

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Greeting again Bob. Here is todays progress. I pulled plug apart and found not two but three red/violet wires from 109. I pushed a needle through one and yes 12 with key on. OH,OH, the ecu. So, I pulled the cover off ecu (a terrible job. That glue is tighter than rivets). I hooked it back up and could easily locate the internal connections soldered under pc board. All red/violet wires quite heavy and yes I had voltage inside ecu. So I keyed it 10 or 20 times and lights came on and started. SOOO a cracked run on the other side. I can't get the d***ed pc board out of the box. I figured more glue around the plastic plugs so I heated to can quite a bit near the plugs that do go in quite far. I could in no way pry it out of the can and there are no retainers. I put unit back into car and got lights and start for about ten times then stopped. Since the can was quite hot, I'm more than convinced that I have a crack in a run. But I cannot see the other side if I cannot get it out. So, either buy another or ruin this one forcing it apart then buy another.

I've looked everywhere in Google and Youtube for disassembly. They only go as far as taking the cover off. Not board removal. So there I am for now. dl

I've only had one apart, 99.5 Jetta, came apart fairly easy.

It looks like it sits on 4 tiny rubber bumpers, I see 4 metal posts near the corners could hold it.
My little experience with these type breadboard, they usually have all the goodies on one side.

BobnOH said:

I've only had one apart, 99.5 Jetta, came apart fairly easy.

It looks like it sits on 4 tiny rubber bumpers, I see 4 metal posts near the corners could hold it.
My little experience with these type breadboard, they usually have all the goodies on one side.

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Not this one Bob. Lot's of chips on this side but it is the shallow side. Then the two plugs with all the pins have to have those pins with a large bend to go through the solder holes. The can is quite big and has molded cooling around it. I'm going to put it in vise, heat just below the plastic assembly of plugs holding pressure on it until the glue softens and I believe that is all that is holding it. There is no evidence of any other places and the board itself flexes above the can edge. I've NEVER seen glue this good.

I've price on ebay and reasonably it will be $100. So, it's broken now so what do I have to lose to chance a repair? I sure will let everyone know this ordeal. Relay 109 is not the problem so much (I have three new ones to prove it) lol. Take care my friend. Keep visiting. dl

disillubber said:

So, it's broken now so what do I have to lose to chance a repair?

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Shorting a power trace to a signal trace and frying something in another module.

wonneber said:

Shorting a power trace to a signal trace and frying something in another module.

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I've worked with PC boards a long time. Not a problem. Getting it out of the box was a problem for sure. It took two hours and I had to heat it in a vise to soften that glue. I was worried about the heat to the board and careful to heat only the edge. That glue is like rivets. Don't forget the glue under the plug. I visually checked with a loop for cracks. Put the board back in plugs with a towel around it and after 20 key turns the car started fine. I torqued the board in every direction possible to break the normal running of the car and all went too well darn it. So, proves the board still functions as it did before, yet the problem is still there. I found on eBay the very same ecu for $100 and stated "tested as good". I guess another gamble to throw the part at the problem. I only have three 109 solenoids invested and a LOT of my time. I've cleaned every ground I can find.

BTW my best diagram shows pins 1,2 are 12v from 109 (every time) on the board itself. Pin 3 not used, 4, an orange wht wire going to something and ground. Here is reality in my case: 1,2,3 are 12v, 4,5,6, are ground, and the orange wht wire is gone. YOU CAN'T TRUST any diagram out there. Haines, Bently, and others. The one I've found even close came as an add on for some book and I can't tell you where.

That's where I sit now. dl

Back again about my so called relay 109. As you see, I've just about exhausted my possibilities, but got a new ecu same number on eBay for $65. Plugged it in and got my lights no prob. Car starts and quits as usual when immobilizer works. NOW, to tackle that little problem. I do have a Vag Com and learning to use it. I'll let you all know. dl

I think you need to get the new ecu's immobilizer removed. We regularly have that done with a local company to us. That way, you have an honest test piece that can replace any similar ecu'd vehicle. Same last 2 Alpha digits works in any car, as long as immobilizer is removed.

Earlier in this thread, you claimed your ECU had the VW #038 906 016 H. I do not know that if that is correct, as all I ever see are ECU's with two alpha digits; FD, BD, GH, etc... in order to switch out an ECU that will work, you should match it's alpha digits, then remove the immo.

I made a stupid mistake recently when switching from a Stage II Rocketchip to a Stage III I had in stock. I replaced it in the summer, then come winter, I find my glow plugs would not work. I fought that thing just about all winter. I felt like an idiot when the bells finally went off. BD code ECU will not light up glow plugs for a FD ECU...

If I can help with the immo delete, let me know. I might even have one, if you get the code right. I'd let you borrow it.

I took a look at the picture of your ECU internals. There appears to have been some water intrusion.

There is a vent on the ECU that is for the barometric metering in the ECU. New Beetles are prone to ECU water damage if the cowling is broken or the window strip that holds the cowling does not lock in place. What does your cowling look like?

You might be able to clean the board off, much like I've seen water dunked mobile phones repaired. You have to get the corrosion off. The oxides can short out your board.