06 Jeta sputtering/loss of power when accelorating

eldar2000

Member
Joined
Sep 10, 2011
Location
Indiana
TDI
2006 Jetta
I have seen quite a few posts about similar symptoms, but I'm still at a loss. 2006 Jetta TDI BRM - 165,000 mi. Started to sputter with loss of power after 2000 RPM. Idles fine, but makes a rattling/sputtering noise when accelerating. Had P0101 code (MAF sensor/large vacuum leak). Took to a VW mechanic who diagnosed it to be a bad turbo - oil leaking from the turbo and side affect of oil blocking the catalytic converter/exhaust. Was quoted $2400 to replace. Was able to find a new OEM turbo for $814 and $550 labor + $45 to clean the intake (was pretty bad).
After turbo was replaced, intake cleaned, cat busted up/cleaned out, the car runs a bit better and no CEL, however the car still behaves about the same on acceleration. The mechanic said it may take some time for any oil to clear out. Ran a whole weekend, still not getting any better.
Last night I did take the car out and did several hard WOTs and the car started running fine! :D However this morning, it's back to the same state.
I trust the mechanic - he's done all my work on the TDI - timing belt, DMF/clutch replacement, etc...
Any ideas what the problem could be??? Should I have the exhaust removed/cleaned out again? Or is this something else?
 

eldar2000

Member
Joined
Sep 10, 2011
Location
Indiana
TDI
2006 Jetta
Well the check engine light with P0101 code is back today. :( Looks like I'm back to square one - now wondering if the turbo even needed replaced.
Can anyone chime in and let me know if it's still possible that the exhaust may still be causing this - mechanic says they blew it out pretty well?
I'm going to try to get him to test the MAF sensor with the VAG, but would a bad MAF cause these kind of problems? According to this article it can cause low power, but apparently unplugging it should send it into "default mode". http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/a4/MAF-sensor-testing-VW-cleaner.htm
I tested by disconnecting the sensor and the car runs about the same, maybe just a tad more rough. Please help - I've been without the car close to a month now.
 

nord

Veteran Member
Joined
Mar 5, 2010
Location
Southern Tier NY
TDI
All turned back to VW. Now a 2017 Hundai Tuscon. Not a single squalk in 10k miles.
Now might be the time to check your cam and lifters. I tend to suspect that your "mechanic" worked around the problem and didn't really address it.
 

ssamalin

Veteran Member
Joined
May 13, 2007
Location
Southern CA
TDI
2015 Mercedes E250 Blutec. Previously: 2006 Jetta TDI
Now might be the time to check your cam and lifters. I tend to suspect that your "mechanic" worked around the problem and didn't really address it.
x2. Do a timing belt and a cam job. Or tow it to frank06 for the full frank06.
 

eldar2000

Member
Joined
Sep 10, 2011
Location
Indiana
TDI
2006 Jetta
Thanks for the replies. I should have mentioned that that was the first thing he did - take the valve cover off and checked the cam. Said they learned to do that first on these. He said it looks ok and ruled it out. Only one was a bit worn down, but not enough to cause problems.
I'm not sure if he checked the timing belt this time, but I think he said it was in good shape when he did the DMF/clutch replacement 3/4 months ago. Timing belt job was around 100k; now 165k.
I'm wandering if it isn't a problem with the EGV Valve. I've had to replace the Throttle flap because it was pretty gummed up and the plastic gears stripped. In the following thread they recommend unplugging both the flap and the EGR valve. I tried running with the flap unplugged, but didn't try to unplug the EGR. Is it worth a try?
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=280804&highlight=p0101

Re: ssamalin, the car doesn't need towed as it does run fine on the highway (with less power of course) and especially if you don't rev up past 2000 you hardly even notice, but once you start accelerating, it really starts sputtering/loosing power. I would like to give my guy the benefit of the doubt before I take it to a guru. He's not an official guru, but does know the TDI and works on other imports very well.
Any other thoughts? Thanks guys!
 

nord

Veteran Member
Joined
Mar 5, 2010
Location
Southern Tier NY
TDI
All turned back to VW. Now a 2017 Hundai Tuscon. Not a single squalk in 10k miles.
Let's start with the basics. Diesels are a fuel-controlled engine. Just three things are needed to make them run... Fuel, air, and compression (heat). In order for a diesel to run well you need unrestricted air, proper fueling and timing, and good compression.

So...

The first rule of diesel is filters. I really don't care if you changed them yesterday, they need replaced. The reason being that by doing this you eliminate many of the possibilities which might be causing your problem.

Once this has been accomplished, then it's time to begin diagnosing the problem. You mention "sputtering" and general loss of power. I'm not attempting to put anyone down but you just paid for a new turbo and it didn't fix the problem. Pray tell how your mechanic came to the conclusion that your original turbo was bad? And no matter your level of confidence he guessed wrong and you paid for it!

What I'm getting at is that your engine will run quite nicely without a turbo. Obviously power will be way down and you will expect a CEL, but sputtering during acceleration shouldn't be an issue. All the same you need to make sure that your induction system has not been compromised. No leaks and no cracks under turbo pressure. VagCom will tell this story.

Next up is fueling. In the PD this is a function of your low pressure (in tank) lift pump and your tandem pump. Are both of these pumps functioning? Are you 100% sure that you're not pulling air? If both are fine, then our next stop in a PD is injectors. And since they're cam driven it follows that both the injectors and the cam need more than a cursory inspection.

To continue this line of reasoning I again have to come back to the cam. Since your cam controls the amount of both valve lift and duration of that lift, and since this applies to both valves and injectors, your cam becomes the center of attention at least for me. You mention the problem at over 2000 rpm. Think about what a worn cam face could do in terms of lift and duration. Also consider what a worn cam and a failing hydraulic lifter might cause especially as engine speed increases. Further, a failure here is not necessarily monitored by your ECU.

Let's for a moment consider the cylinder side of things. As our piston rises on the compression stroke we need to have allowed the correct amount of air to have been injected through the intake valve and expect that the exhaust gasses have been purged from the cylinder before the beginning of the compression stroke. As the piston rises we need to be sure that both valves are closed and sealed. Then, at somewhat before TDC we need an appropriate shot of fuel to be injected into the system. Air, heat, fuel, compression and we get a bang.

Timing belt? Chinese timing belts look good... Until they suddenly develop two ends. You don't open the belt covers, have a lookie, and determine a good or bad belt. It doesn't work that way! Further the PD does not time via the belt. It times via the cam... Which assumes the cam is in proper relation to the crank.

And so I come back to the most suspicious. Stuttering as revs increase tell me that you have a mechanical problem. You're likely dropping a cylinder in a sort of hit or miss kind of failure. The question in my mind becomes whether the cylinder in question is not getting proper fueling, or whether a valve is not being properly actuated. Either of these two possibilities are the most likely cause of power loss and the stuttering you mention.

My guess is that your mechanic is in denial. You'll find your problem is mechanical and you'll find it somewhere between the cam and the valves or injectors. This assuming all other problems have been eliminated.

Good luck!
 

turbocharged798

Veteran Member
Joined
May 21, 2009
Location
Ellenville, NY
TDI
99.5 black ALH Jetta;09 Gasser Jetta
Thanks for the replies. I should have mentioned that that was the first thing he did - take the valve cover off and checked the cam. Said they learned to do that first on these. He said it looks ok and ruled it out. Only one was a bit worn down, but not enough to cause problems.
I'm not sure if he checked the timing belt this time, but I think he said it was in good shape when he did the DMF/clutch replacement 3/4 months ago. Timing belt job was around 100k; now 165k.
I'm wandering if it isn't a problem with the EGV Valve. I've had to replace the Throttle flap because it was pretty gummed up and the plastic gears stripped. In the following thread they recommend unplugging both the flap and the EGR valve. I tried running with the flap unplugged, but didn't try to unplug the EGR. Is it worth a try?
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=280804&highlight=p0101

Re: ssamalin, the car doesn't need towed as it does run fine on the highway (with less power of course) and especially if you don't rev up past 2000 you hardly even notice, but once you start accelerating, it really starts sputtering/loosing power. I would like to give my guy the benefit of the doubt before I take it to a guru. He's not an official guru, but does know the TDI and works on other imports very well.
Any other thoughts? Thanks guys!
Once the cam is worn, its toast. That may very well be your issue.

Yes, unplug the EGR. Many times the EGR valve will stick and cause the issues you describe. Unplug both the EGR and throttle flap and see if it still sputters.
 

HBarlow

Veteran Member
Joined
Nov 3, 2012
Location
Crosby County, TX
TDI
2009 Jetta Sportwagen, 2016 Audi Q5 TDI
Let's start with the basics. Diesels are a fuel-controlled engine. Just three things are needed to make them run... Fuel, air, and compression (heat). In order for a diesel to run well you need unrestricted air, proper fueling and timing, and good compression.

So...

The first rule of diesel is filters. I really don't care if you changed them yesterday, they need replaced. The reason being that by doing this you eliminate many of the possibilities which might be causing your problem.

Once this has been accomplished, then it's time to begin diagnosing the problem. You mention "sputtering" and general loss of power. I'm not attempting to put anyone down but you just paid for a new turbo and it didn't fix the problem. Pray tell how your mechanic came to the conclusion that your original turbo was bad? And no matter your level of confidence he guessed wrong and you paid for it!

What I'm getting at is that your engine will run quite nicely without a turbo. Obviously power will be way down and you will expect a CEL, but sputtering during acceleration shouldn't be an issue. All the same you need to make sure that your induction system has not been compromised. No leaks and no cracks under turbo pressure. VagCom will tell this story.

Next up is fueling. In the PD this is a function of your low pressure (in tank) lift pump and your tandem pump. Are both of these pumps functioning? Are you 100% sure that you're not pulling air? If both are fine, then our next stop in a PD is injectors. And since they're cam driven it follows that both the injectors and the cam need more than a cursory inspection.

To continue this line of reasoning I again have to come back to the cam. Since your cam controls the amount of both valve lift and duration of that lift, and since this applies to both valves and injectors, your cam becomes the center of attention at least for me. You mention the problem at over 2000 rpm. Think about what a worn cam face could do in terms of lift and duration. Also consider what a worn cam and a failing hydraulic lifter might cause especially as engine speed increases. Further, a failure here is not necessarily monitored by your ECU.

Let's for a moment consider the cylinder side of things. As our piston rises on the compression stroke we need to have allowed the correct amount of air to have been injected through the intake valve and expect that the exhaust gasses have been purged from the cylinder before the beginning of the compression stroke. As the piston rises we need to be sure that both valves are closed and sealed. Then, at somewhat before TDC we need an appropriate shot of fuel to be injected into the system. Air, heat, fuel, compression and we get a bang.

Timing belt? Chinese timing belts look good... Until they suddenly develop two ends. You don't open the belt covers, have a lookie, and determine a good or bad belt. It doesn't work that way! Further the PD does not time via the belt. It times via the cam... Which assumes the cam is in proper relation to the crank.

And so I come back to the most suspicious. Stuttering as revs increase tell me that you have a mechanical problem. You're likely dropping a cylinder in a sort of hit or miss kind of failure. The question in my mind becomes whether the cylinder in question is not getting proper fueling, or whether a valve is not being properly actuated. Either of these two possibilities are the most likely cause of power loss and the stuttering you mention.

My guess is that your mechanic is in denial. You'll find your problem is mechanical and you'll find it somewhere between the cam and the valves or injectors. This assuming all other problems have been eliminated.

Good luck!
Outstanding explanation and guidance!!

Your piece was better written than can be found in many service manuals.

I hope you write a lot more advice here when members have issues.
 

eldar2000

Member
Joined
Sep 10, 2011
Location
Indiana
TDI
2006 Jetta
Let's start with the basics. Diesels are a fuel-controlled engine. Just three things are needed to make them run... Fuel, air, and compression (heat). In order for a diesel to run well you need unrestricted air, proper fueling and timing, and good compression.

So...

The first rule of diesel is filters. I really don't care if you changed them yesterday, they need replaced. The reason being that by doing this you eliminate many of the possibilities which might be causing your problem.

Once this has been accomplished, then it's time to begin diagnosing the problem. You mention "sputtering" and general loss of power. I'm not attempting to put anyone down but you just paid for a new turbo and it didn't fix the problem. Pray tell how your mechanic came to the conclusion that your original turbo was bad? And no matter your level of confidence he guessed wrong and you paid for it!

What I'm getting at is that your engine will run quite nicely without a turbo. Obviously power will be way down and you will expect a CEL, but sputtering during acceleration shouldn't be an issue. All the same you need to make sure that your induction system has not been compromised. No leaks and no cracks under turbo pressure. VagCom will tell this story.

Next up is fueling. In the PD this is a function of your low pressure (in tank) lift pump and your tandem pump. Are both of these pumps functioning? Are you 100% sure that you're not pulling air? If both are fine, then our next stop in a PD is injectors. And since they're cam driven it follows that both the injectors and the cam need more than a cursory inspection.

To continue this line of reasoning I again have to come back to the cam. Since your cam controls the amount of both valve lift and duration of that lift, and since this applies to both valves and injectors, your cam becomes the center of attention at least for me. You mention the problem at over 2000 rpm. Think about what a worn cam face could do in terms of lift and duration. Also consider what a worn cam and a failing hydraulic lifter might cause especially as engine speed increases. Further, a failure here is not necessarily monitored by your ECU.

Let's for a moment consider the cylinder side of things. As our piston rises on the compression stroke we need to have allowed the correct amount of air to have been injected through the intake valve and expect that the exhaust gasses have been purged from the cylinder before the beginning of the compression stroke. As the piston rises we need to be sure that both valves are closed and sealed. Then, at somewhat before TDC we need an appropriate shot of fuel to be injected into the system. Air, heat, fuel, compression and we get a bang.

Timing belt? Chinese timing belts look good... Until they suddenly develop two ends. You don't open the belt covers, have a lookie, and determine a good or bad belt. It doesn't work that way! Further the PD does not time via the belt. It times via the cam... Which assumes the cam is in proper relation to the crank.

And so I come back to the most suspicious. Stuttering as revs increase tell me that you have a mechanical problem. You're likely dropping a cylinder in a sort of hit or miss kind of failure. The question in my mind becomes whether the cylinder in question is not getting proper fueling, or whether a valve is not being properly actuated. Either of these two possibilities are the most likely cause of power loss and the stuttering you mention.

My guess is that your mechanic is in denial. You'll find your problem is mechanical and you'll find it somewhere between the cam and the valves or injectors. This assuming all other problems have been eliminated.

Good luck!
Wow. That is a tremendous reply and overall explanation! I believe you're right on target here. I took the car back to the shop and yesterday got a call back saying that he believes it to be a mechanical issue as well. He admitted that it was not as easy to check cam failure on these as on gas engines, but said he believes it has to do with a possibly "sticking" valve. He gave a very long/detailed expatiation, which I don't think I can fully relay, but the "pop" noise (earlier referred to as sputtering) is not coming from EGR or exhaust (he disconnected it for testing - allowing free flow). Holding hand upto EGR he can feel "pulsating", which means there's back and forth pressure or existence of negative compression - I'm guessing exhaust back-flow (I may not be explaining it 100% correctly, sorry).
He said he has a psi tester but it's not for a PD engine, but he will try to find an adapter and get back with me with what he finds out.
My questions are:
1. Is a "sticking valve" a legitimate guess - granted he's not completely done diagnosing, but is this a known problem for BRM engines?
2. If so what is the fix here - a cam overhaul, replace bad valve(s)? What parts am I going to be needing for this? and are there good wright-up for the job(s)?
3. Would a bad/leaking turbo cause this kind of problem?
4. If I'm looking at a cam job or valve replacement/whatever, what other things should I be looking to do while this is being done?

Thanks again for all the replies!
 

nord

Veteran Member
Joined
Mar 5, 2010
Location
Southern Tier NY
TDI
All turned back to VW. Now a 2017 Hundai Tuscon. Not a single squalk in 10k miles.
The "pop" is THE cardinal indication of a bad cam and damaged lifters. I believe you don't have just a sticking valve and I repeat my doubts about your mechanic. It strikes me that he's not a diesel guy. Diesel engines are not modified gas engines. Just ask GM.

The TDI is an interference engine. This means that as the piston rises to TDC there is no room left for a partially open valve. One way or another either the valve is going to close or something bad is going to happen. And if your piston is pushing that valve back into home position, then I can reasonably assure you that there has been damage. How much I don't know.

Judging from the information provided I'd suspect that you have at least one failed cam lobe associated with a spalled (cupped) lifter. Truth be told I'd guess that it's very likely worse than that and that one or more lifters may possibly be holed.

Here's the problem as I see it... You have a mechanic who has already misdiagnosed the problem at considerable expense to you. It appears that he "checked" the cam and pronounced it to only be a bit worn. (There really is no such thing.) Cams are either good or bad. Yes, there are degrees of bad but bad is bad. Now he tells you that perhaps a valve is sticking in an interference engine and that a cam problem is difficult to diagnose. And it appears that he's still diagnosing! As I follow this story I'm pretty much in awe. Personally I figure about twenty minutes to determine whether a cam is good or bad. Anyway...

1. Cam and lifter problems are not difficult to diagnose. Remove the valve cover, get good light on the subject, and turn the engine over to expose all the cam and lifter faces in turn.

2. Any worn cam face will be associated with a spalled lifter. The degree of damage will be anything from a slight wear pattern to cupping and on to an actual hole being worn into the lifter face. Again, not easy to miss even for a partially blind man!

3. Worn lobes will be associated with a bad cam bearings. This will be confirmed when you change out the cam and lifters.

The part here that really worries me is that you may well have a bent valve. While I doubt this to be the case it's still very possible given what you've shared. If there is valve damage, then you'll at least have to deal with the entire head. Again, I doubt this to be the case but it's possible depending on what damage you find on the top end.

Please consider consulting with a trusted TDI mechanic or technician. I don't use the term "guru" because there's nothing mythical about our TDI's. All that's really required to become a respected "guru" is a knowledge of exactly how a diesel works combined with technical skill, a VagCom, honesty, and a brain.

My guess is that you'll find significant damage on the top end, but nothing terribly serious. In other words a cam, lifters, and bearings. Damage past this point is unusual.

I wish you well.
 

turbocharged798

Veteran Member
Joined
May 21, 2009
Location
Ellenville, NY
TDI
99.5 black ALH Jetta;09 Gasser Jetta
Valves usually don't bend on these engines, they mushroom instead since they strike the pistons dead flat on.

I can almost guarantee that the problem is a worn cam.
 

shtevev8

New member
Joined
Jan 10, 2013
Location
Scottish Borders
TDI
Golf 130
I would check the fuel filter first, quick, easy and cheap. Also check the lift pump in the tank. I had problems with my golf tdi pd 130. tried everything then took the lift pump out and it was black with gunge and was blocked ( contaminated fuel) which explains why it wasn't getting fuel. Two simple things to check before getting stuck into the engine!
 

eldar2000

Member
Joined
Sep 10, 2011
Location
Indiana
TDI
2006 Jetta
Thank you again for great input. I found some good articles on inspecting the cam/lifters. We'll see what my guy comes up with. He does seem to know the diesels and is knowledgeable, so I don't know what happened this time. I agree that it's very frustrating that I ended up paying for a new turbo! I'm hoping he'll help offset some cost for doing the com job, since he miss-diagnosed it with the turbo. Is that fair?
Also, can anyone recommend a Camshaft replacement kit? I'm looking at:
http://www.idparts.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=1318{118}187{150}211{75}60

Is it worth to go with Frank06's kit?
http://shopping.boraparts.com/product_info.php?products_id=680

Any other recommendations. I know this is pretty well known issue and I've been searching forums, but haven't found a definite answer on what's the best/recommended cam replacement solution yet.
 
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MyAvocation

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Jun 9, 2004
Location
Hoffman Estates, IL
TDI
2017 Passat SEL TSI
Is it worth to go with Frank06's kit?
Absolutely, and he will answer your remaining questions.
Now that you identify the noise as a 'pop' (some call it a 'bup') seems almost certain you holed a lifter -- especially if it's synchronized with RPMs.
This isn't something that slips by a knowledgeable TDI mechanic -- shade tree or otherwise -- so either it's not a lifter, or you need a new mechanic.
 
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eldar2000

Member
Joined
Sep 10, 2011
Location
Indiana
TDI
2006 Jetta
Thank you all again for the input. I went ahead and ordered the camshaft kit and timing belt kit from idparts.com. MyAvocation: I just couldn't afford Franko6's kit, with all the additional items needed for the warranty, etc... got very expensive quick.
My mechanic is insisting that the turbo was definitely bad because there was oil in the exhaust. He's also saying that it is possible that the turbo may have caused the engine problems somehow. I have not inspected the turbo myself yet, but whatever... :(
He's charging me $300 to do the cam job.
I saw there are some specific break-in procedures on http://shopping.boraparts.com/product_info.php?cPath=21_28_139_147&products_id=215
My questions:
1. Are these pretty standard procedures or specific to TDI/BRM camshaft?
2. Would I need to get special assembly lube or should my mechanic have something/know to do that?
3. What is usually used for break in oil?
Any other recommendations for this work?
I'm almost tempted to do the work myself to make sure it's done right, but I'm not sure if I'm upto it. Are there detailed "how to" somewhere?
 

muhibmc

Veteran Member
Joined
Dec 18, 2011
Location
Toronto, ON
TDI
Previously > 2006 Jetta TDI BRM 5MT [Silver], 2000 Jetta TDI ALH 5MT [Blue] , 2005.5 Jetta BRM DSG [Grey]
...I'm almost tempted to do the work myself to make sure it's done right, but I'm not sure if I'm upto it. Are there detailed "how to" somewhere?
i would definitely do the work myself. if you're up to it there are step by step instructions and videos available.

I recently changed mine, following advice on forums, and some online tutorials.

Here's a YouTube video on replacing a camshaft on a similar engine. this is pretty much what your getting into (aside from the timing belt).

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V3XNNGpdu7w
 

MyAvocation

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Jun 9, 2004
Location
Hoffman Estates, IL
TDI
2017 Passat SEL TSI
I just couldn't afford Franko6's kit, with all the additional items needed for the warranty, etc... got very expensive quick.
My questions:
2. Would I need to get special assembly lube or should my mechanic have something/know to do that?
3. What is usually used for break in oil?
Frank's kit includes all of these. You need the break-in oil regardless, and it's not cheap.
 

eldar2000

Member
Joined
Sep 10, 2011
Location
Indiana
TDI
2006 Jetta
Frank's kit includes all of these. You need the break-in oil regardless, and it's not cheap.
Well, I got a call from Frank this morning and I decided to cancel my IDParts order and go through Franko6. Waiting to get a quote and most likely will do the cam work/timing belt myself. ;)
 

Vipervnm

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 27, 2006
Location
Kingwood, NJ
TDI
2006 Jetta TDI Package 1
Did you try replacing the fuel filter yet? That would be the first thing I'd try. If it's clogging it initially has a hard time supplying fuel at a high rate leading to lower than expected power and/or stuttering/stumbling.
 

eldar2000

Member
Joined
Sep 10, 2011
Location
Indiana
TDI
2006 Jetta
I did get a filter to replace, though I don't know if has been replaced yet. The dealership gave me a wrong filter before I took the car back in for second diagnostics. I know what the symptoms of a bad filter are, I've had that couple of times, this seems very different. I will double-check though.
 

Vipervnm

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 27, 2006
Location
Kingwood, NJ
TDI
2006 Jetta TDI Package 1
Cool. I can tell you're eager to get it back on the road in full health. Just wanted to make sure you covered the basics before getting into the deep end.:)
 

eldar2000

Member
Joined
Sep 10, 2011
Location
Indiana
TDI
2006 Jetta
Well, I got a call back from the shop today. He had the cam cover off and reported that the lifter was worn down/holed. He said the valve was ok - he was able to move it.
Wow, I'm relieved to finally have a diagnosis and to know that I can get my beloved TDI back on the road soon with a reliable, smoother cam and better power and gas mileage (thanks to Franko6)! :)
I'm still waiting to get a quote from him, but my mechanic is willing to work with Frank of follow any special directions/break in instructions.
I would do the work myself, but there're so many special tools needed for cam and timing belt that I don't have. Maybe you guys can still talk me into it though. ;)
Thanks again for everyone's tremendous help and input!!!
 

eldar2000

Member
Joined
Sep 10, 2011
Location
Indiana
TDI
2006 Jetta
Stopped by the shop today on the way home, the cam was completely out and it was definitely in bad shape. One lifter completely holed and couple others also wore down. The cam was pretty wore out as well. Here's a picture of the holed lifter:



and glad to see the the head and valves looked ok:

 
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MyAvocation

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Jun 9, 2004
Location
Hoffman Estates, IL
TDI
2017 Passat SEL TSI
Eldar, for the price of shipping I can mail you a good used lifter so you can drive it home for the repair -- especially if you need more time to get everything in place. Just send me a PM. But if it were me I'd shame the mechanic into allowing you to do the work in his shop, since 25% of the entire job is already done.
 

eldar2000

Member
Joined
Sep 10, 2011
Location
Indiana
TDI
2006 Jetta
Eldar, for the price of shipping I can mail you a good used lifter so you can drive it home for the repair -- especially if you need more time to get everything in place. Just send me a PM. But if it were me I'd shame the mechanic into allowing you to do the work in his shop, since 25% of the entire job is already done.
Thanks, but since he had this taken apart and willing to do it for probably half the price of what others would charge and the fact that I don't have all the needed tools, I'm just going to bite the bullet and have him finish up. I'm hoping he will be reasonable and realize his misdiagnosis, but if not, this is probably the last visit to him.
It was nice working with Frank. He provided all the details for installing/breaking-in the camshaft, I'm hoping to be on the road this week. :D Here's a photo of the new camshaft:
 

eldar2000

Member
Joined
Sep 10, 2011
Location
Indiana
TDI
2006 Jetta
Well, I'm back on the road and very happy with the new Franko6 Cam. Very smooth and quiet almost like having a new car - well it should be after $3000! Thank you all so much for great input, just wish I would have checked here before throwing a new turbo in :(. Anyone need a used turbo?
 

chudzikb

Veteran Member
Joined
Sep 28, 1999
Location
Lancaster, PA, USA
TDI
05.5 Jetta 03 Golf 2 door
Ouch, that's an expensive part swapping to find out wrong. These cars require those that really understand them and work on them daily.
 
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