Suspension problems

Heyo!
I just bought a manual 2005 Mk4 Golf TDI GLS with the BEW engine with about 200k miles on it. Unfortunately, I got the bad end of the deal with the gas tank ending up having to be replaced not 100 miles into driving the car. Fortunately, I'm handy with a wrench and am good at taking things apart. Putting them together right, not so much.

I've discovered that I've got all sorts of suspension issues. I believe that my rear shocks/struts whatever is making that horrible creaking noise are bad and my rear alignment is off too. I believe my rear subframe is bent because the control arm bushings fit weird. The car had been in a "light accident" according to the dude I bought it from.

I brought it to a mechanic and that confirmed my suspisions. My subframe in the rear is bent, my passenger side seat airbag and window bag aren't there (hence the big hole in my seat) and my struts in the rear and front are dead. On top of that, my left front lower control arm is welded at the seam and my right brake rotor has enough vallys in it to be called a mountain range.

Worse of all my pilot bearing is about to die. I thought it was the throw out bearing, but that didn't make sense because it only rattled when I had the clutch engaged on neutral. Shouldn't your throw out bearing only be moving when you have your clutch pedal depressed?

What should be tackled first. I'm on a budget and I can probably get all of them back together with enough time and youtube videos, but I'm going to be doing all of these myself, unless you guys think I should have a professional do one of these.

The most expensive are probably going to be the shocks and struts, and the hardest is probably that pilot bearing, which is probably going to mean the clutch is getting replaced too so I guess that would be the most expensive. Oops.

I just bought two gallons of Mobil 1 TDT 5W-40 and a filter for $60 to replace whatever stuff the dude had in there before. I'm doing that probably tomorrow.

Any recommendations for all these problems and anything else that I should probably check since my car hit the 200k mark? I'm new to these VWs but I'm certainly enjoying driving it! (and that sweet, sweet gas milage)

Rear shocks are easy to replace, you should also replace the upper mounts while in there. However if the rear subframe is bent find a straight one at the junkyard and replace it. A 99.5-05 should fit gas or diesel, golf or Jetta not sure about a beetle but that might fit also.
Make sure you replace all the bushing in the new one before installation.

Front struts you’ll need a spring compressor, an impact wrench and a strut spreader tool, which is literally worth its weight in gold, overall not to bad a job. Lower control arms can be purchased new, even loaded with the bushings. Again fairly easy job, especially when doing the struts.

Air bags could be found at a junkyard and so can good seats, they swap out pretty easy also.

I not sure what you mean on the clutch. Do you mean it rattles at idle with your foot off the pedal? If so someone may have replaced the dual mass flywheel with a single mass which is noisy at idle with your foot off the pedal. Which is nothing to worry about. Or do you have something else going on there?

Just curious why did the fuel tank need replacing?

Welcome by the way.

The way you describe the bearing noise regarding the clutch sounds exactly like the release bearing or throw out bearing as you guys maybe call it.

Tdijarhead said:

Rear shocks are easy to replace, you should also replace the upper mounts while in there. However if the rear subframe is bent find a straight one at the junkyard and replace it. A 99.5-05 should fit gas or diesel, golf or Jetta not sure about a beetle but that might fit also.
Make sure you replace all the bushing in the new one before installation.

Front struts you’ll need a spring compressor, an impact wrench and a strut spreader tool, which is literally worth its weight in gold, overall not to bad a job. Lower control arms can be purchased new, even loaded with the bushings. Again fairly easy job, especially when doing the struts.

Air bags could be found at a junkyard and so can good seats, they swap out pretty easy also.

I not sure what you mean on the clutch. Do you mean it rattles at idle with your foot off the pedal? If so someone may have replaced the dual mass flywheel with a single mass which is noisy at idle with your foot off the pedal. Which is nothing to worry about. Or do you have something else going on there?

Just curious why did the fuel tank need replacing?

Welcome by the way.

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Glad to know none of these jobs are that hard. Thank you for your help.

I guess it's scrap yard hunting time!

With my foot off the clutch in neutral whether I'm moving or not it sounds like a kid rattling marbles around a plastic container. The clutch feels sensitive but its really hard to depress. Is that just a thing with these cars?

When I bought the car it was raining and I don't have a sense of smell at all. When I brought it home and woke up the next morning I was missing probably half a gallon and found it evaporating on my driveway. I Googled how to replace it and it seemed pretty hard so I just had a mechanic I trust do it.

I also need to adjust my e brake since it can't hold me on a sharp hill at all.

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Actually my struts might not need replacing. I don't keep bounciny, they're pretty firm but my rear shocks/springs are noisy. I'll stick some wd-40 on them and see what happens.

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These cars are known for their dual mass flywheels, with 200k you might still have the original clutch. I’d just plan on replacing it. Make sure you replace everything in there including the pivot pin and clip. I’ve done mine three times in my driveway, once because the dmf separated and once immediately afterward because I didnt replace the ball pivot and clip, and once 150k later because I wanted a quieter clutch.

The rear shocks are about 30 min per side with an impact. It’s a good idea to put new upper mounts in. Otherwise you’ll still have noises with the new shocks.

Keep your eye on Craigslist for partouts for new seats and anything else you’d like to replace. Or of course as I mentioned, the junkyard.

E brake is a common repair item on the cars. There should be a write up in the Tdi 101 section.

Alright, so I replaced my oil with the Mobil 1 TDT 5W-40 and replaced the filter with a WIX filter. Hope that'll help the high mileage, I've heard from the forums that you guys love the TDT stuff. I also went and fixed my handbrake in my spare time and installed a stereo that looks very clean. I'll send pictures of it when I can.

I believe it is my rear shock mounts that are making the racket in the rear. Should I replace the shocks along with the mounts or do you think that it's fine to leave the original ones in there?

And could someone point me to how to check if it's the original dual mass flywheel, or is the noise from someone replacing the flywheel with a single mass one.

Replace the mounts with the rear shocks that should take care of the noise from the rear. Unless its the lower control arm bushing that’s making the noise. You should inspect that also.


If a SMF has already been installed you can hear them make a bit of noise sitting at a stop light or sign with the gearbox in neutral and your foot off the clutch. When you push the clutch in the noise goes away. It’s not a loud noise just an annoying one.

Here are some links to issues you’re facing.

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=60705

http://www.myturbodiesel.com/wiki/mk4-vw-jetta-tdi-golf-new-beetle-diy-index/

That might be great oil, but it's not listed for a PD motor.
Linky (myTurboDiesel)
Your marbles could be anything from valve bits, to loose clutch components, to any loose part like heat shields, to, of course, our infamous DMF.
As a newbie I will caution you that this forum is roughly 75% VE(alh) 25%PD(brm,bew,?).
The 2 platforms are pretty much the same except for the fuel system. Hence the motors are a bit different. Different oil spec.
It could almost be 2 forums.

BobnOH said:

That might be great oil, but it's not listed for a PD motor.
Linky (myTurboDiesel)
Your marbles could be anything from valve bits, to loose clutch components, to any loose part like heat shields, to, of course, our infamous DMF.
As a newbie I will caution you that this forum is roughly 75% VE(alh) 25%PD(brm,bew,?).
The 2 platforms are pretty much the same except for the fuel system. Hence the motors are a bit different. Different oil spec.
It could almost be 2 forums.

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Thank you for the advice. We'll see how this oil works out. At least it shouldn't cause any damage?

Is the BEW, BRM engine just less popular or just less common? I've found that the car performs outstandingly in the 600 miles that I've already put into it in four weeks.

Tdijarhead said:

Replace the mounts with the rear shocks that should take care of the noise from the rear. Unless its the lower control arm bushing that’s making the noise. You should inspect that also.
If a SMF has already been installed you can hear them make a bit of noise sitting at a stop light or sign with the gearbox in neutral and your foot off the clutch. When you push the clutch in the noise goes away. It’s not a loud noise just an annoying one.
Here are some links to issues you’re facing.
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=60705
http://www.myturbodiesel.com/wiki/mk4-vw-jetta-tdi-golf-new-beetle-diy-index/

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I will get the components for that replacement, along with a skid plate since my plastic one is just dragging now since one of the side curtains are damaged. Is it advisable to get a steel or aluminum one like what ECS Tuning offers?

It makes a LOT of noise in neutral and foot off clutch. It's nearly drowning out the engine noise.

Thank you for the links.

I've got a list of funny noises now:
"flutter noise" at over 2k rpm and 75% throttle
High pitch noise similar to a beep on idle every two seconds
All sorts of rattling from the dash. Maybe fixable later with glue
Can hear relays really easily. They're loud. I haven't heard any this loud.

Any of these to worry about?

Inverhyt said:

Thank you for the advice. We'll see how this oil works out. At least it shouldn't cause any damage?

Is the BEW, BRM engine just less popular or just less common? I've found that the car performs outstandingly in the 600 miles that I've already put into it in four weeks..........................................

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Others are using oil like that, many of the issue were dealers using who-knows-what (wrong oil) and a possible soft cam.
The BEW and BRM are just newer, 2004+, injectors are under the valve cover. ALH was used in early beetles, 1998, then mid-year 1999 thru 2003 in the Golf and Jetta.