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VW MKIV-A4 TDIs (VE and PD) This is a general discussion about A4/MkIV Jetta (99.5-~2005), Golf(99.5-2006), and New Beetle(98-2006). Both VE and PD engines are covered here.

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Old January 18th, 2018, 08:00   #1
thedude78
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Default Installed 11mm now won’t start

I have a manual 2001 Jetta ALH and I bought a 11mm pump because my original 10mm (213,xxx) pump was leaking really bad so I figured, why not.

I got everything on the pump installed and got the timing set and I verified the timing 4x’s before I started cracking.

Started cranking, everything sounded good, cracked the injectors one at a time until fuel was squirting out.

I could not get the thing to fire up for the life of me. There was white smoke coming out of the exhaust. I’ve replaced the 109 relay and I’ve checked all fuses. Also jumped the fuel shut off solenoid with a wire to the battery and I could hear it clicking.

I have the ASV/EGR deleted. The TB and all components were changed out about 10,000 miles ago with parts from IDparts.

The car ran just fine with the original 10mm pump (minus the leaky pump) before I pulled it. I’m out of ideas and any help would be appreciated.
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Old January 18th, 2018, 09:10   #2
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Stop, hammer time.
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Old January 18th, 2018, 09:37   #3
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Typically white smoke and no start indicates late timing.

Where'd the pump come from? Had it been sitting unused for a long time?
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Old January 18th, 2018, 10:01   #4
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I just went back out this morning and checked the timing again and it’s still dead on. I bought the pump a while back from a member on here so it’s been sitting for a little bit.
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Old January 18th, 2018, 10:24   #5
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If you have white smoke, then there is fuel into the cylinders.

Your timing is off - check a 5th time.

If you want to convince yourself and us that it is not the timing, then line up the crank to tdc, take a picture of the mark in the bellhousing...

...Then re and re the vac pump and take a picture of the cam slot...

...Then take a picture of the pump alignment slot/hole with a small mirror and post up all three.

If all three line up, and you have squirting fuel at the injectors, the car will start.
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Old January 18th, 2018, 10:40   #6
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What Windex said.

White smoke is atomized but unburned fuel. It didn't light because it went into the cylinder at the wrong time (late, usually) and thus was out of the ignition window.

I know, you're sure it's right. There's a VERY high probability you're wrong.
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Old January 18th, 2018, 10:47   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Enabled View Post
Stop, hammer time.
This. Have you tried adjusting the QA? Try hammering it toward the driver side of the car. If it's too far toward the passenger side, it just won't start at all. Be ready to turn it off if you move it too far, though.
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Old January 18th, 2018, 12:03   #9
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Cant really tell the crank mark but you could try loosening the three bolts and moving the pulley in respect to the shaft, do not remove the big large bolt on the IP.

Pulling fuel through the pump to get all air out would possibly also help
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Old January 18th, 2018, 13:18   #10
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I connected the VCDS and pulled 2 fault codes,

17946 - fuel shutoff solenoid
18009 - relay for supply voltage terminal 30

I checked the wires coming off of the solenoid and I didn’t see a break. I also pulled fuse 32 and I was not burnt.
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Old January 18th, 2018, 13:32   #11
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Have to ask: You sure the pump pin is in the hole in the pump, not adjacent to the boss the hole is drilled in? Hard to be sure from the pichers.

If you're getting smoke that tells me the fuel solenoid is opening. Have you cleared the codes and checked if they repeat. Might be leftovers from you working on it.

I'd avoid messing with the QA position except as a last resort. The pump was from a runner, right?
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Old January 18th, 2018, 13:39   #12
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If you flipped the key to ON while replacing the the relay or pulling fuses that could be the cause of the codes. Clear them and see if they return while trying to crank again.

Since there is fuel (white smoke) coming out of the exhaust, try advancing the timing and see what happens...loosen the three pump pulley bolts and nudge the center hub bolt towards the front of the car.

There is a possibility that the pump was disassembled and put together improperly.
Does the paint mark (if it is still there) across the 22MM hub mounting nut/shaft end look fractured like the nut was disturbed?

Yet another possibility, if the pump was disassembled, is the cam plate inside was installed 180* out.
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Old January 18th, 2018, 13:48   #13
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Pull the pin from the pump and take a picture with a small dental mirror and a light - there is a reason why I didn't specify the pin inserted.

Greater men have been fooled by the "sucker hole"
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Old January 18th, 2018, 13:55   #14
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if the timing piston is stuck it can be in time all day long and fuel perfectly but never start... you can pull the pump and remove the piston covers, if free then it likely has stuck elements in the vane assembly ...you mentioned that it sat awhile before installation, best way to store a pump is full of trans fluid or power steering fluid
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Old January 18th, 2018, 16:18   #15
thedude78
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Alrighty..... well I tapped out. Not knowing the history of the 11mm pump and chasing my tail, I pulled it back out and put the old pump back in and it fired right up so I’ll sent the 11mm pump in and have it looked at. Thank you guys for your help!!
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