ALH TDI engine transplant into '84 Vanagon

rackaracka said:

Andy, is the pod plastic, polystyrene, foam, fiberglass? You need to make sure you use a primer / sealer or adhesion promoter that is compatible with your material. Then you need to apply a really light (dust coat) for starters and let it flash off. If you put a second coat of paint on before the first layer is dry, it will be mushy and probably wont dry - will hold your fingerprints... Unfortunately, you may have to use a solvent and clean / sand it back down. I try to avoid painting when it is > 75% humidity - because you cannot control the speed of the reducer that is in a rattle can. You can paint in the rain and do a good job - but you have to use really light coats and allow long dry times between coats.

Click to expand...

The pod is black plastic with the base (my mod) being Bondo! I did use a good primer, which was allowed to dry for over an hour.

Definitely holds my finger prints....

I think you hit the nail on the head...........high humidity and I put on several coats which were a little more than light! ...... real bummer!

So, now that I have the maize of wiring for the gauges ready for plug-&-play, I'm going to strip it down and start from scratch! Also, since the Van is all but ready to move out of the garage, I'll do the painting in there with the AC on and the vent fan going!

Thanks!

This morning/afternoon, besides cleaning up the work area, rounding up tools, etc., I did strip the paint off the three gauge pod and wet sanded it down to the bare plastic and bondo. Luckily, I picked up the can of paint stripper to read the directions "again" and noticed it said "do not use" on Plastic. So, quickly I commenced the process of getting that stuff off. Apparently my timing was perfect because it loosened the paint without damage to the plastic........Wow! It's about time the tide turned in my favor.

Well, at this point, I'm just going to install the gauge pod without paint and let it happen! I'll address sometime later when the pressure is off!

The fuel tank looks fine. So, after this short break, I will go install it.

I hope to have the InterCooler protection shield on before the day is over! May post some pics late tonight!

Pics!

Update with pics

Okay, here are some pics of the shielding I put together for the InterCooler.

Also, as you may have given some thought, the TDI engine in a Vanagon is just "hanging" there in the rear.......... nothing like being up front in a Jetta or Golf. So, I've been really burning my brain on ways to shield the engine from all the road debris but at the same time keep it compact and neat.

Well, obviously, I am running out of time as far as our planned trip to Alaska and return to the TDI Fest by the end of the month. (At this point, I'm not sure about going to Alaska....... time is definitely short now!)

Anyway, at a minimum, I'm adding "side flaps" on each side to provide some protection. My brother provided these flaps which I've customized for my purposes. In some of these pics you will see the flap that's been installed on the left side.

All comments are at the top of the photos.

This pic is for reference....... you are looking to the rear of the left side of the Vanagon......straight behind the left rear wheel. So, you can now better understand the need to protect the InterCooler from flying road debris. Keep those two supports with holes in mind as you look at the rest of the photos.


The following photos show the IC shield. The "stuff" is Bondo just smeared over the undercoating (including a little left over mud...LOL). Hopefully, I can come back to this later and provide permenant sealing (even behind the IC)

In the pic below, you can see to the right is an aftermarket mud flap (too cheap to provide black washers). To the left you should be able to see the "side flap." It extends downward 10 inches to roughly the same level as the bottom of the center mount of the carrier bars. It extends from the front of the carrier bar to almost the rear of the engine bay (about 22 inches). It is secured with 4 bolts on a 1/2 inch lip on the bottom of the chasis........works great! Also, notice the two bolts, they go in the holes of the supports on the IC as seen in the above photo . The shield is also "screwed" to the body panel at the top and covered with Bondo.


This is a similar angle as above but shows the left rear shock. The black mark on the aluminum shield is a reference for my use in pounding the metal to provide fit-ment!


A picture is worth a thousand words (so the saying goes). However, a pic can be deceiving too. Here you are looking from the rear left corner. The shield below the InterCooler really looks better than it appears. Also, you can see the one "bumped up" spot on my Vanagon. A previous owner did that.


Below, in this close-up, you can see the exit side (bottom) of the InterCooler directly above the shield. Also, you can see the charge pipe from the Turbo going into the bottom of the IC................ Also, notice the black rubber "side flap" there in the background.... see next pic.


In the pic below, you are looking up from the other side of the InterCooler.....looking at the side flap. Notice the Turbo pressure pipe going thru the side flap? Also, to the left at the end of the side flap you can see the bottom rear part of the InterCooler. The big black tube is the left carrier bar which holds the engine mounts.


I did not take any pics of the three gauge pod before or after I stripped the paint off. I will install it tomorrow in the rough!

Questions

Questions to save me some time (no researching)!

1. How to change clock to 12 hour from 24 hour?

2. IP leak..... where typically? Pump head? Top of pump? Shaft? Or, is the puddles of fuel on the block from bleeding the lines a week ago? Doubt that, but maybe! I cannot find a leak on the pump at least not what I can see.................

I did just a long slim screw driver and shop towels to swab up all the fuel. If it returns, obviously the pump is leaking!

Seals can "dry out" over long periods of sitting. If you get lucky, a few thermal cycles might get seals working again. Most common leak points are head seal (the cast iron part to al pump body) and the top cover. Both can be replaced in situ, carefully.

Have you driven it yet?

Clock can be changed in vcds, but I think it might go along with changing to km.

Congrats

Andy, I'd like to meet you sometime. I was not planning on TDI fest. Lot of driving from Florida for a long weekend. Plus it is labor day weekend. Post if you are really going to make it there this year. Here is a tip I saw on TV for removing paint from plastic. Soak it in brake fluid. It will lift the paint, but not damage the plastic. Rinse well with soap and water when done.

In the race car and with what I had left over. I coverd the aluminum dash panel in the car and in the vanagon, covered the aluminum panel I made for the AC center vents and AC controls with a replica of carbon fiber vinyl from 3M. It has texture and reflects light so you really can't tell it is fake. I think there is a picture on the Samba of the AC controls. I think since you went to all this trouble, maybe that would give you that "custom" appearance.

Anyhow, glad you got it going finally. mark

For the replies, thanks! Yes, it appears the leak is there at the head......fuel under the IP on the aluminum mounting bracket. I've cleaned it and seems if there is a leak, it is very small. Well, actually, I'm convienced it is a leak!

Mark, I am registered for the TDI club. And, my hopes to go to Alaska are evaporating daily! Monday I plan to have the front-end aligned........do some driving, etc. If all is well, we will spend the day Tuesday cleaning the Van and packing with hopes to hit the road Wednesday!......... we would be down to about 18 days by then which is very questionable! I've done a 21 day trip to Alaska (7 days up, 7 days there and 7 days back).

Back to the garage ..........

Don't get in too much of a rush for your trip. You still need to shake down that thing. I've done alot of prototyping and you need to put some local miles on and get a bug list. Swaps are never ready to go out the door.

Great work, by the way.

Hey Andy...I agree with Ski....put around the neighborhood for a week or so before a long maiden bon voyage ....bummer about the pump head....I have some head seals here, if you want I can shoot you two or three (just in case)....I've pinched them on install right @ the N108...tends to be a tight spot there....I can put em' in the mail first thing monday....

Update

Okay, looks like the Injection Pump has quit leaking.........after cleaning up the puddles of fuel, etc., appears no leak(s). Right before quitting for the day, I started the engine and let it idle for about 60 to 90 seconds while I added more coolant. So, if the IP is still leaking it may show in the morning.

I did finish-up everything to do with the InterCooler today........finally, including installing the tail light assemblies with the correct bulbs. Also, I painted the base of the three gauge pod with flat black.......dang, other than a few pits in the bondo, it looks good!....LOL.

I decided to wait one more day before installing the fuel tank. I left it outside in the sun to make sure the Red Kote is fully cured. I flipped it several times during the day so that both sides shared the heat....

Here are some pics of the InterCooler........ Comments are at the top of each pic!

Below is a shot looking thru the left rear tail light hole. The Spal 300 CFM fan is there to the left in the background. Also, you can see that the plexi-glas is installed (see the reflection of the Relay).......with the protective cover peeled off! It will be interesting to see how long it lasts. There is a thicker choice to work with. Notice the relay connection on the extreme right has two wires...one is for the temp sensor and the other is for an in-dash flip switch! I also have circuit for an LED in the base of the gauge pod that indicates the fan is on! (one for the AC compressor too!)


In this pic, below, you are looking across the TB end of the engine at the InterCooler and Fan Assembly............looking thru the Plexi-glas...... how about that flexible hole for the Intake Pipe?


The pic below is a similar angle. A cherry hot nail, in Vise Grips is the best way to bore a hole in Plexi-glas without cracking it!


Note: The Plexi-glas shields the engine heat from the InterCooler and fan. I could have used a piece of metal.....but, then I would not be able to see what's going on behind it.

Jimbote, I will let you know some time tomorrow if I need the IP head seal(s).

Yes, you guys are correct. I am probably expecting too much right out the gate! The place I will have the front-end alignment done is about 45 miles away. All the other places are booked or not recommended. Anyway, that would be a good drive to see how things are going to perform!

I'm finally getting that feeling of relief and the monkey off my back!

Matt is looking for an injection pump to reseal at TDIFest. If it's leaking a bit, maybe that would be an opportunity for both of you.

Might as well seal it up.

Leaking pump

Andy, a couple years ago, I had the van's front on jack stands while I redid the front suspension for about a month. It would not fire up when I was done. I checked back at the engine and there was a puddle of fuel on the mount and block. With my wifes help, we bled the injectors and it fired up.

I cleaned up the residue and for the next few months it was dry. I should have sealed it, but wanted to see it leak. Well we left for Ca, and I did not seal the pump. In Yosemite, the temp dropped to below 40 at night. Sure enough, the pump leaked. It then occured to me, that we had a few cold snaps when I was working on the front end. As hard is it is to believe, the contraction rates of the aluminum vs the steel head allowed it to leak. Fortunately on the trip we were moving so it never lost prime.

If your intention is to go to Alaska, I would not go without resealing the top and rear of the pump. First time is a little daunting, but once you are done it really is fairly straight forward. It can be done on engine without removing the pump etc. Plus if you end up doing the hammer mod, it is easier with new top seals.

I admire your willingness to just drive to Alaska so soon. I drove locally for a month sorting a few things and building my confidence and even then our first trip from Fla was to Lousiana, Alabama, the Carolinas and then home. Mark

Update

This afternoon/evening I finished up the three gauge pod......Wow! Unfortunely, I had to find another source of power for the gauge lights. The Vanagon instrument "hot" circuit puts out less than 7.5 volts. Only worth mentioning because it took up more time. I used the circuit for the Vanagon marker lights. Also, as part of the circuits I ran thru the conduits to the dash area, I installed two LED lights on the blank accessory switch spot in the Vanagon cluster housing. One light is green and will come on when the AC compressor kicks-in. The other light is amber and comes on when the InterCooler fan kicks on (automatic from the thermo switch or the manual switch).

I've spent the remainder of my time cleaning, sorting thru left over parts, tools, etc. Wow! I found a few things that I surely thought the ghost took....LOL.

I'm down to the following items.

1. Install steering wheel and column cover
2. Bleed brakes and clutch system, again
3. Install fuel tank
4. Add two more side flaps behind (Edit: inside of the rear wheels along the body) the rear wheels.......small pieces to keep out flying mud/debris should we get on some off roads
6. Finish filling the coolant system and bled air out. I've been able to put in 2.5 gallons with a little over 1.5 gallons to go (16.7 quarts OE for the Vanagon)
7. Install head lights and grills
8. Install tires
9. Jack it up and remove the stands .........wow!

Yes, Mark, a trip to Alaska is now out of the question, other than Haines/Skagway area and that window is closing too! Hopefully, we will have the bugs worked out in time for the Fest ......... Lots of gurus between here and Ypsilanti!

The IP has not leaked anymore. Since you (Mark) mentioned the temp swings affecting aluminum vs iron, it's interesting to point out that the AC system in my garage blows almost directly on the engine!........The Engine Temp gauge in the gauge pod was showing 63.7 F degrees when I turned it on for the first time!

I'll post a few pics later tonight!

Update with pics

Okay, as promised here are a few pics of the Cluster and Gauge Pod........ Laughing not allowed!

All comments are at the top of each photo!

Below is a pic of the dash area with the engine running, dash lights on and the flash off............... learning how to take this sort of pic


This pic is pretty much from the same angle with lights on and a flash.....looks dusty but that is not the case. Also, I need to install the radio or purchase a new one to install. Notice on the right side of the Vanagon cluster housing, just below the emergency flasher.....see the two LED lights. The amber one on the left comes on when the IC fan is on. The one on the right comes on when the AC compressor kicks-in!


Below is a shot of the three gauge pod from the right side of the vehicle. Obviously, you can see that I stripped the paint off and painted the base flat black. This will be addressed later. The gauge on the left will show EGT and Coolant Temp. The center gauge is for boost (with the ASV in the modified EGR, it shows Vacuum during engine shut-down), and the oil pressure is to the right. Informational: The three pod gauge is for a Subaru. Using card board and Bondo, I made the base to provide a better angle........ it is "screwed" directly to the dash and is mounted over the Ash Tray and Center Radio Speaker hole. Also, notice that I crafted it to fit the contour of the Vanagon dash!


This is a close-up of the Oil Pressure gauge. Looking straight-on the pressure is 30 psi at idle with an engine temp of about 150F. Upon initial engine fire-up, the oil pressure was just under 80 psi. Notice the screw-head just below the Oil Pressure gauge. That's a regular wood screw. Those supplied with the kit were too short for the raised base on the front. The screws worked fine at the rear of the base.


This evening/night, I started the engine numerous times and let it idle two to three minutes each time.........the Coolant level in the round tank will not drop. So, I'm thinking my Coolant filter may be the problem. I plan to remove it tomorrow.

Listening to that engine is so soothing to the mind! It has been a long time getting to this point! Gees! I'm not sure if I would do it again or not!

I got sick of burping cooling systems like that at the dealer real quick. I absolutely LOVE my vaccum filler. Makes the job so much quicker and easier, bleeding takes little to no time after the initial fill, and sometimes isnt even needed. Looks good!

I agree, the vacuum filler is definitely the way to go.

Andy, the van is looking great.

Speaking of vacuum filler...........where do I get one?

Also, I determined that the AC was only losing Vacuum when I left the yellow hose hooked to the vintange vacuum pump. It has held 28 to 29 inches of vacuum since around 10:30 am yesterday (Sunday). I guess it will be good to charge up!

Dang, I am so excited I cannot sleep.........

I just put my mityvac on the small vent return line at the top of the ball, and pull until I get about two ounces of coolant in the jar. This is not as good as a full vacuum fill, but is fairly effective.
When recovering for a head replacement, for instance, this will usually get out enough air such that simply filling the coolant ball completely will result in a normal level after a couple of drive/cooldown cycles.
Of course, this is with a normal component configuration. It is hard to tell how effective this will be for yours.

If you had a hose attached to the ball vent barb going into the bottom of a coolant mix bottle, but pinched closed, then pulled a hard vacuum on system via the vent hose , then opened the line to the coolant bottle, that may do a fair job.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002SRH5G

Here is an example, I haven't used this specific brand so I cannot vouch for this one. I need to purchase one of these myself.

Re: Intercooer

I think you should relocate the intercooler. Like you said, road debris will either kill it or at the very least plug it up.

What I did with my conversions in the past is mount the intercooler "upright" in that cubby hole where you have the fan now, on an aluminium plate that totally blocks off the engine bay from this area. Mount the intercooler on one side of this plate and the fan at the other side. The fan forces the air thru the intercooler by drawing air from outside via the side vent to the interior of the engine compartment - so cold air always on the intercooler and cool air to cool down the engine compartment. I have the fan triggered by a relay attached to the D+ terminal on the alternator so that it runs only while the engine is running.

This area is protected from debris from the tires and will take a totally bizarre rock bouncing around in the engine compartment to hit it.

Update comments

Jon, thanks for the link. That looks to be a good system. However, as you all know time is not on my side at this point.

Here's what I did. The Vanagon Rad has a vent bolt at the top for releasing air. I used a small L-pipe from the vent pipe off a battery (un-used) to go in the hole and plugged it into a similar size semi-flexible hose attached to a small funnel. I was amazed how quick it gulped down almost a gallon and half of distilled water and coolant.

As you may recall, using Jetta coolant hose, I pieced together the piping from the engine head flange to the Vanagon OE metal coolant pipe. One of the connectors on the Jetta piping, with the small nipple, works perfect for bleeding air............. so, by dumping in coolant at the top of the Rad, it now runs out at the rear air bleed. Also, I had dumped in about one gallon in the return pipe a few days ago.

Anyway, I am very close to 4 gallons of coolant/distilled water mix in the system now!

The AC system is still holding 28-29 inches of vacuum.

The IP is still dry, no leaks!

Finished the rear side flaps.

After this break, I plan to tiddy up the dash area by installing the steering wheel, etc. The last thing I plan to tackle today is the fuel tank.

David, the InterCooler location, as you described, is no doubt a better idea. I'm too far in at this point to be making changes. I will see how it functions and adjust from there. I feel fairly confident that loading with mud and/or flying debris will be at a minimum considering the shielding!

Update

Well, as usual, this evening I didn't get things done as expected. The fuel tank is still not installed.

I finished topping off the coolant by idling the engine for almost a half hour. Wow! It never did reach full operating temp! The engine has a "shudder" until it warms up!

The steering wheel install went okay. I had to make some adjustments with the Interlock Relay switch at the clutch pedal due to binding with the steering wheel bottom cover. As you may recall, that switch allows the engine to be started only when the clutch pedal is depressed!

I greased up the CV joints and installed them with new boots on the axles. Two of the CV joints were very stubborn about going on............lots of hammer with brass base! I did hit my knuckles a few times. I did get one axle installed. I'll do the other one in the morning!

Surely I will be able to drive it out of the garage tomorrow!

Andy, the pump never leaked when the engine was running or when the ambient was up. We drove across the entire US going to Ca and never even smelled a diesel fume. It was not until it got cold. As soon as the engine started and there was some engine heat, the pump would be fine. It made the return trip a little stressful, but we made it home without having to reprime.

Not sure why your's is shuddering cold. Ours starts and purrs. Have you hooked up the VCDS to look at your Injection Quantity and other numbers? Mine certainly got better when I started working with the Injection Quantity. Ours developed the slow down stutter once I connected the VSS. Before that, even though there was a code, the engine ran great. In the end, I set the adaption back to stock and did the Hammer mod. I had to redo the hammer mod a second time when I installed the larger nozzels. Seems mine is set around 7 now. Been a while since I had the laptop connected. mark

Edit, ours takes at least 7 miles at 50mph to get to operating temperature from a cold start. I bet if you opened the heater valve, the engine could idle all day and not turn the rad fan on.

Update

I've been out and about running errands most of the day.

This afternoon, I did install the fuel tank....... dumped in about 3 gallons of diesel fuel! Prayers answered, no leaks! Interestingly, the fuel light is on at 3 gallons, which is good. As you may recall, when I modified the fuel sending unit from a Jetta to fit in the Vanagon tank, I "cut and bent" the float wire (among other things) in a fashion that when the float is about 1/4 inch off the bottom it should be reading bone dry!

I power bled the brakes............ flushed too!

I power bled the clutch hydraulic system too!

Axles are in..........CV joints were stripped of all grease, cleaned bone dry, new OE type grease, new boots, and new bolts!

Transmission: With the vehicle sitting on four jack stands, engine running, the transmission shifts smooth ......and turns with no roar, grinding, etc. It is a little stubborn about going into reverse. I think that will be fine when it is on the ground. Of course, I'll not know if it is going to jump out of one or more gears until I am out and about on the road.

I need to add a support brace for the CCV vent pipe that goes across the back of the engine to the E-Vac System. I have drilled and tapped the head end of a bolt to screw in where one of the OE motor mount bolts went (there in the center of the engine). I plan to use it to secure the support. Also, that OE motor mount bracket hole needs to be covered to keep the critters out!

The AC system needs to be charged (still holding 28 to 29 inches of vacuum).

I need to get the fuel off the I-V hanging above the engine ........ so, filling the system with fuel back to the tank is going to be fun. I don't have a Mity Vac!

I'm sure the cooling system will need a little more coolant added.

........Scratching my head on what else might need to be done!

Please ask if you have any thoughts about something I may have overlooked.

AndyBees said:

filling the system with fuel back to the tank is going to be fun. I don't have a Mity Vac!

Click to expand...

Turn the regulator on your air compressor down to 15 PSI or so and use an air nozzle with a rag wrapped around it to slightly pressurize the tank.

Update

It was 4:00 pm today before I had an opportunity to get back to the project.

Switching from the I-V fueling to the Vanagon fuel system went just fine. I put a small funnel on the suction line and slowing dumped in fuel with the Vent Screw slightly loosened on the filter bracket. When fuel began to ooze out, I clamped the suction line at the tank and continued to slowly add fuel thru the funnel, occasionally loosening the vent screw to let air escape. Once it would no longer take fuel, I switched lines hurriedly at the IP and then fired up the engine. It took about 5 or 6 seconds for the oil pressure to go past 50 PSI. At that point, I took the RPMs up to about 2000 and held it there for about 90 seconds. The engine did not miss a lick! (Yes, I used clean fuel from a clean container as well as a clean funnel.)

Well, it was about 6:00 PM when I put the last wheel on and drove the Van out of the garage........ that's when I noticed the tranny shifting wasn't as I thought it to be.

Long story short, I spent about three hours trying to adjust the shifting mechanism. In the end, I used a paint stirring stick (perfect width) to hold the shift lever tight over on the 3rd-4th gear side of the shifter box in the neutral position......... tightened everything down, and presto, it works fine now! Reverse works far better than I expected!

Okay, tomorrow I will get the engine up to full operating temp and top-off with coolant, go have the front end aligned, and then do some road testing.

Seems that 5 gallons of diesel fuel barely knocks off the low fuel light. I may have to make adjustments with the float later on!

I need to come up with some sort of sound deadening insulation for the engine cover........Ideas are welcome!

Well, this thing sounds like a truck ......... I'm not so sure about the 12 inch glas-pack mufflerf. But, it will have to stay for now! Otherwise, it seems to idle and runs smooth with minimum vibrations! In fact, that was something I worried about. It was difficult to make an assessment with the vehicle sitting on 4 steel jack stands on concrete. With rubber on the ground, it really seemed okay!

Below are a few "proof" pics... (Comments at top of pics)

Yep, it's a mess.........this is the little cubby hole that I've worked in for the last 14 months!


Below, the Van is sitting outside! The brown Vanagon in the background is an '83 with the Air-cooled engine. It is the one that has been to Alaska and back 7 times......has to be a record!


This is a close-up. You can see the AC manifold gauges are still connected to the AC system....hanging at about 28 inches of vacuum. The exhaust system is "higher" than the bottom of the tranny and engine! And, there is room to raise it up if necessary! However, that location is fairly close to the location of the OE Vanagon exhaust system!


An interesting piece of info: I'm using a 780 CC Walmart Everstart battery from my brother's wrecked '01 Jetta TDI that was put in service 10/07 which has been sitting for about a year. The engine starts right off when it's cold. Seems it takes a few more cranks when it is warmed up....may need fuel quantity adjusted! Timing is slightly advanced above the line in the graph!

I have been following your project for some time now and it's great to see that you have driven it now.

That's great to hear Andy. I'm looking forward to your driving impressions tomorrow.