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TDI Power Enhancements Discussions about increasing the power of your TDI engine. i.e. chips, injectors, powerboxes, clutches, etc. Handling, suspensions, wheels, type discussion should be put into the "Upgrades (non TDI Engine related)" forum. Non TDI vehicle related postings will be moved or removed. Please note the Performance Disclaimer.

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Old February 26th, 2016, 12:29   #1
1998TDIMonster
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Default Dlc 1019.. Wow

Hello everyone. Got my dlc 1019s in the mail this morning from KermaTDI after some trouble with FedEx. Luckily Kerma's customer service is superb and they got me taken care of. But all I can say is wow... Its like a brand new car! I can't wait for a retune and SB Stage 2 endurance clutch. My IQ is around 5.2mg/str and It is smoky on WOT, but isn't really bad at half throttle (where i do most of my driving). I read somewhere not to worry about adjusting IQ until 500 Miles after the install to let the injectors break in? (I guess it kind of makes sense as clutches need a break in time too). Is this correct? Do I even need to adjust the IQ or is 5 about right? I am still running the stock little Gt15 so I am assuming that is where the smoke is coming from. I also have no EGR, no Cat and no mufflers so all particulate goes out the pipe. I was going to try the IQ at 6.0mg if yall agree that it should be moved. Is an EGT gauge a necessity? I do short WOT bursts and never hold WOT uphill or go to 100mph or anything like that. If i had a larger turbo I would for sure get one, but do I need one with my driving style?

Thank you,
Adam
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Old February 26th, 2016, 15:13   #2
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I would get a EGT gauge for sure to keep an eye on things. Not sure on IQ. I have mine set at 5.8 right now and there is a light haze at WOT, would like to move it down some.... But i have a vnt17 turbo also.
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Old February 26th, 2016, 15:59   #3
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I have a 00 beetle. ALH, 5 speed, no cat, no muffler, 5 speed with G60-VR6 pressure plate and clutch. I'm running DLC1019 with no tune and a VNT15 and 10mm pump. My timing is dead smack in the middle on the graph (50). My IQ is at 5.8. I had it down at 4 before putting the nozzles in. With the new nozzles there was a TON of smoke at 4.0. I bumped it up 0.5 at a time until I got no smoke. 6.0 was no smoke. I then lowered it a little to 5.8 and the slightest haze at WOT. No haze at any other throttle positions. That seemed perfect but definitely less power than even at 5. Now that it's cold, the haze is gone, even at WOT. I can't decide if I want to go down (5.6ish) or advance the timing to the top of the graph.
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Old February 26th, 2016, 17:30   #4
1998TDIMonster
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Still smokey at 7.8mg. To get to the timing it is: Engine->Meas Blocks->Basic settings...correct? After I do that there should be the timing button somewhere on the bottom of the screen? It has been a while...
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Old February 26th, 2016, 17:36   #5
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Yes, check your timing. Engine controller>Measuring block 000 - GO>Basic Settings button on bottom left of screen>Timing Checker on bottom right of screen>select your engine. Timing should be on the top side of the graph. DBW likes it near the green line.
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Old February 26th, 2016, 17:46   #6
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So it should be closer to like 75?
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Old February 27th, 2016, 09:13   #7
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Not sure how much smoke we're talking about here. Might not be able to really get the smoke dealt with until the tune.

Set timing all the way up is what many advocate. I have it that way on the wife's car, with IQ set about 6.0 and there's no smoke from hers: DLC520 with Malone State 2. I am wanting to bring the IQ back down because I believe that it's negatively affecting cold starts. My car is still running with its stock settings (or darn close- iq 3.2 and timing just above mid graph) with those same nozzles and tune, and it'll smoke slightly at WOT, which I believe is ideal/optimal, and generally runs PERFECTLY well.
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Old February 27th, 2016, 09:51   #8
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I believe it is the tune as well. I am shipping my injectors back today so I should get my hotswap money back by next week. Then I will be able to order my new clutch. I would like to wait to get my retune until after the clutch is put in. I will run the stock chips for 600 or so miles, which is a tank of fuel, to allow the clutch to break in before reinstalling the new retune.

http://vid578.photobucket.com/albums...E4B22CF50B.mp4

Here is a quick 2nd and 3rd pull at WOT at 8.0 mg/str. Will check timing today when I get a minute.
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Old February 27th, 2016, 10:37   #9
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Every engine is different so you can't go by the numbers. My old black sedan was perfect around 2.0, my wagon is around 5.5 and still needs tweaking.
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Old February 27th, 2016, 15:35   #10
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Timing is at 37...should i adjust it? Can any harm come from running it at 37 until i can adjust it?
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Old February 28th, 2016, 08:34   #11
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You have to bump that timing up, your EGT's are going to be way too high...

http://www.dbwllc.net/app/uploads/20...-Procedure.pdf

Top of the range works best.

Then adjust the IQ to 6.0 (Best Mechanical value to start with).

Then tweak IQ to get a light haze at full throttle in 3rd gear.
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Old February 28th, 2016, 11:19   #12
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Good stuff right there. Thanks DBW.
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Old February 28th, 2016, 14:24   #13
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Before the cam and the pd130 intake that is what my b4 looked like with the 1019s and a malone 3 I have cleared mine up alot with the intake and cam
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Old February 29th, 2016, 10:44   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1998TDIMonster View Post
Timing is at 37...should i adjust it? Can any harm come from running it at 37 until i can adjust it?
WAY too low. You've got more fuel and it's being dumped in late -> smoke. As DBW stated, best to bump up to the top line (wanting to say that 75 sounds like the right kind of number, assuming, of course, you're running at operating temps when you measure).

I'm still not convinced that there's any magic number for IQ, I think that the best number is where everything is working the best (and that also includes starting).
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Old February 29th, 2016, 12:11   #15
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Thank you DBW for the resourceful link. Headed outside in a few minutes to do the adjusting. With the timing at 37, I should be loosening and prying the pump towards the front of the vehicle, correct?
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