Serpentine Belt Pulley Play?

So I wanted to post up a quick question for y'all here. I'm in the middle of my TB job waiting for my kit to get in from IDparts tomorrow. Everything is tore down (my 100k kit failed at 60k due to a WP).

All of the issues that I've read about seem to be about the serpentine belt tensioner "bounce" related to the strut. That is in good shape on mine.
What I'm curious about is the pulley shaft "play". The pulley is in visibly good shape, no odd wear or anything, and spins freely and smoothly.
But if you grab the thing like you're checking for a loose wheel bearing and rock it, you can feel some noticeable shaft play (think of rocking it perpendicular to the block). It's not a lot, but I didn't think to check it when it was a new unit.

I know it can be replaced without doing a TB, but at this point if I need a new one it would be easier. I just cant justify dropping the coin if that play is normal and isn't going to harm anything. There have been no weird belt squeals or noises of any sort.

The caveat is that I would need the part tomorrow if I in fact do need the assembly, the only one local is a Napa unit which is over $100. I plan to go there later today to pull their new one out of the box to check the pulley on it, but I figure I'd check here first.

Thanks in advance all!

That is tough to say, as I think you'll find most any 'used' one will have at least a little play. If in doubt, change it out. Especially if the car is on its second or third timing belt interval (or in my case, fifth... ).

The bouncing tensioner is caused by the alternator pulley being locked up usually.

oilhammer said:

That is tough to say, as I think you'll find most any 'used' one will have at least a little play. If in doubt, change it out. Especially if the car is on its second or third timing belt interval (or in my case, fifth... ).
The bouncing tensioner is caused by the alternator pulley being locked up usually.

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Yeah I'm going to go check a new one out here shortly, but I start the rebuild process of the TB tomorrow so I need it in that time. The only ones that are local are $100+ and come with the new strut, which I don't really need.
I'd have to go back in my notes, but i feel like I replaced the tensioner on my last TB job 60k ago, which would be a bit scary if it developed that much play..

Yeah it most certainly isn't locked and spins freely.

Depending what the part was, that may not be unusual.
Took a quick look over at ID, can't tell if they sell just that pulley. You might contact IBW

Your alternator pulley locks up in one direction, and not the other?

BobnOH said:

Depending what the part was, that may not be unusual.
Took a quick look over at ID, can't tell if they sell just that pulley. You might contact IBW

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I've sourced just the pulley, but you need the style that has the torx bolt that holds the pulley on:

I think mine may be OEM, I remember feeling around last night and I don't recall feeling that torx head, just a flat rivet.

I did stop by Napa at lunch and checked out their Gates tensioner assy. It had a slight amount of the shaft play, but not what the one one my car has. Looks like I'll be ponying up for that Gates assy. I suppose on the bright side the pulley can be replaced on that one

Mike_04GolfTDI said:

Your alternator pulley locks up in one direction, and not the other?

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Not sure what you're talking about here boss, this thread isn't about an alternator...?

Common for the alt pulley to cause problems. Something we sometimes do here- guessing you may have missed something obvious. Generally when that things goes it will cause the bounce, not always.

Now that I see what it is, I interweb guess you're just fine, drive on!
You'll no doubt keep an eye on it.

BobnOH said:

Common for the alt pulley to cause problems. Something we sometimes do here- guessing you may have missed something obvious. Generally when that things goes it will cause the bounce, not always.

Now that I see what it is, I interweb guess you're just fine, drive on!
You'll no doubt keep an eye on it.

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Well I think I'm going to replace the entire assembly on the car, because it currently doesn't have that torx screw holding the pulley on...from what I recall last night.

The amount of play that is on the one on the vehicle worries me a bit compared to the play from the one in the store.

Yeah I've read of all of the problems that can arise from the pulley issues. I diagnosed a friends Golf, she had the bounce going on, I yanked it for her and the pulley was basically seized causing it.

If there is any benefit from swapping to an aftermarket setup, you can replace the pulley on it if it starts to wear again. Or even just press a new bearing in if need be

No real advantage.

The fact that it pushes the belt, it doesn't have as much torque on it as a running pulley. But I agree with your conclusion, that's what I would do.

If it does in fact ride on a rivet, it may have had that slop from day 1.

KrashDH said:

Not sure what you're talking about here boss, this thread isn't about an alternator...?

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Oh, perhaps I misread it. I thought you were saying your tensioner was bouncing. When that happens it's usually because of an alternator pulley that has lost it's ability to free-wheel in one direction.

I've never seen a tensioner pulley that could not be removed from the assembly. I've taken off a good number of the pulleys, peeled out the grease seal and packed it with fresh grease! ...............

I replaced a complete assembly today as the bearing was gone and the shock was very oily. It did bounce and make intermittent weird sounds. In my case, the pulley on the Alternator is just fine.

AndyBees said:

I've never seen a tensioner pulley that could not be removed from the assembly. I've taken off a good number of the pulleys, peeled out the grease seal and packed it with fresh grease! ...............

I replaced a complete assembly today as the bearing was gone and the shock was very oily. It did bounce and make intermittent weird sounds. In my case, the pulley on the Alternator is just fine.

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I'll check again tomorrow night before I start the installation if it has a removable pulley, but I remember feeling around back there and it being flat. But my mind is all over the place now a days, between the Cummins and TDI I have plenty to keep me busy....

BobnOH said:

If it does in fact ride on a rivet, it may have had that slop from day 1.

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So I did some more research on the interwebz and it seems even the OEM part has the hex bolt that holds the pulley in. Maybe I just missed it, but I suppose I can take a gamble and get the assy and just the wheel and take back what I don't use.

Edit; not seeing the pulley at all anywhere for sale separately. I've been reading some shady things about the Gates brand tensioners. Seems odd as the one on my truck is the HD version that is a go-to part.

The pulley does come off with a torx bit, but the pulley halves are held together with rivets, but you can drill them out and replace the bearing its a 6202 or 6203 and use small bolts to bolt it back together.. Ive done this a couple times when the rest of the tensioner was fine and I couldn't get parts for a few days.

I have done this with spares as well to have a backup when I had 3/4 tdi's in the driveway as well.

steve6 said:

The pulley does come off with a torx bit, but the pulley halves are held together with rivets, but you can drill them out and replace the bearing its a 6202 or 6203 and use small bolts to bolt it back together.. Ive done this a couple times when the rest of the tensioner was fine and I couldn't get parts for a few days.

I have done this with spares as well to have a backup when I had 3/4 tdi's in the driveway as well.

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So to get to the bearing you have to split the pulley halves?
Do you by chance recall what the bolt size was that you used for the halves as to not interfere with anything?
Also was it easy to press the bearing out/in with just a socket?

In another post it mentions that you have to lathe some of the roller surface away to be able to press the bearing out...is this if you don't punch the rivets out?

Thanks in advance, a $4 bearing sounds MUCH nicer than a $112 questionable tensioner...

KrashDH said:

So to get to the bearing you have to split the pulley halves?
Do you by chance recall what the bolt size was that you used for the halves as to not interfere with anything?
Also was it easy to press the bearing out/in with just a socket?

In another post it mentions that you have to lathe some of the roller surface away to be able to press the bearing out...is this if you don't punch the rivets out?

Thanks in advance, a $4 bearing sounds MUCH nicer than a $112 questionable tensioner...

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Cant remember sizes, I had to mini grind the end of the bolts off as they stuck out. I didn't have to do anything special to get the bearing out, a hammer and screw driver, it is clamped in there tight but not pressed. You cant get the bearing out without removing the rivets.

You might be getting conflicting info with the stationary pulley bearing info etc.. Once you remove the rivets the pulleys pull apart(might need a flat screw driver), the bearing will be left in one side, just need to knock it out.

steve6 said:

Cant remember sizes, I had to mini grind the end of the bolts off as they stuck out. I didn't have to do anything special to get the bearing out, a hammer and screw driver, it is clamped in there tight but not pressed. You cant get the bearing out without removing the rivets.

You might be getting conflicting info with the stationary pulley bearing info etc.. Once you remove the rivets the pulleys pull apart(might need a flat screw driver), the bearing will be left in one side, just need to knock it out.

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Ok, I came across this quote on another thread (not tdiclub):

Re: serpentine belt and tensioner pulley mk4 tdi alh
Post by Tdi jetta 4 ever » Thu Oct 03, 2013 2:40 pm

Could be the bearing inside the pulley, its held by 3 rivets. I fixed mine myself. The pulley split in half, i drilled the 3 rivets out, took the bearing out, fit new bearing and used 3 small 6mm bolts and nuts in the place of the rivets.

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Did you just have to grind the end of the bolts because the only ones available were too long?

Alright well I've been on a reconnaissance mission.
I did some research and came up with a PN for the pulley to the serpentine assy, but it seems like it was only available in the UK:

Meyle 100 145 0003

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/100-145-...ed-belt-fit-/222038642952?hash=item33b288d108

Apologize for the large pic:


Here are the specs on the roller:
Part Number : 100 145 0003

Note 1 :

Note 2: Height (I think they mean width) (mm) : 26

Note 3 : Inner_Diameter_(mm) : 17

Note 4 :

Note 5 : Outer_Diameter_(mm) : 70

I did some cross referencing on some idler rollers...specifically Dayco because they had some data on their rollers and I found this:

Dayco 89052 (steel)

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/carquest-by-dayco-idler-pulley-89052/19130023-P




Specs:
SPECIFICATIONS
Belt Type: Serpentine
Bracket Included: No
Diameter: 70 mm
Idler Pulley Bearing Inside Diameter: 17 mm
Idler Pulley Groove Quantity: 0
Idler Pulley Material: Steel
Idler Pulley Width: 27 mm

So it's a bit wider overall. The backspacing is really what's going to be key for this roller to work.

There's a deal going on with Advanced Autoparts, MK25 gets you 25% off your online order (and you can pick up in store).

I'm going to just purchase it because it's $12 with the discount and see if it's a relevant replacement for the tensioner roller. If not, no loss I'll return it because...

My local advanced auto also carries the Litens tensioner assembly (they had 1 in stock, must have been a no show customer as normally you need to special order these)!
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...50434a/10457976-P?searchTerm=litens+tensioner
I used the code to get 25% off that as well, so I got the Litens assy for $63.
Not a bad deal at all. If the other roller works, I may just keep the extra tensioner as a back-up. I'll follow up with the results tonight!

I just wanted to post back up with the results and that Dayco pulley did not work. What was listed on the site for the width (27mm) was not correct and it was more like 29mm. This caused the roller to make contact with the arm slightly when fully seated. I'm not giving up, but it's back to the TB job for now because I had the backup tensioner.
FWIW, the play in the old tensioner is about the same as the new one, maybe a bit more, but it is in fine shape as a spare. I still might try to source a new roller to solve this issue!