Hard Start/Check engine light/blinking glow plug light

HELP!! I'm a new TDIClub member. I have been doing a lot of research on the problems my 2002 Jetta TDI is having. I've read that the VAG-COM can give me more answers than the OBD-II readers.

I have had problems with my brake switch (intermittently) for about 2 months now. Last weekend my boyfriend replaced it with a lavender colored switch (and now sometimes the light doesn not go out unless I lift up on the brake pedal). Everything was working GREAT until last week when my check engine light came on in addition to my glow plug light flashing. I have read about 8 different reasons for the glow plug light to be flashing, so I'm not sure where to start.

Since the cold weather has started, my (weak battery, which I replaced 12/20) has not been able to start my car without spraying starter fluid in the intake or the block heater being plugged in. The old battery has died several times just trying to start the car. I can't plug the car in at work during the day, so I'm forced to start the car using the starter fluid. My car also shakes A LOT when stopped at red lights, so I need to put it in neutral to stop it from shaking (it still shakes then, but not as much).

I replaced the fuel filter about 2 months ago, so I don't think it has anything to do with my flashing glowplug light. I've read on here multiple reasons for the flashing glowplug and check engine light on:

• engine coolant temp. sensor
• the cold start valve
• fuel coolant temp. sensor
• anti-shudder valve
• water in the diesel
• brake switch
• weak battery (just replaced and no change in symptoms)
• dirty intake manifold

I'd go broke replacing all these parts. I don't understand how there could be so many different reasons for the flashing glowplug light with the check engine light on.

My multiple symptoms are:

• occasional loss of power on take off
• loss of power from 1-5 seconds during high speed driving (getting power back after I take my foot off the gas for a second or so)
• bad shaking at low idle/red lights while in drive (not as bad when in park or neutral)
• occasional difficulty starting vehicle when block heater is plugged in
• a lot of difficulty starting vehicle when vehicle is cold and temp is below 50 degrees (probably due to weak battery)
• only way to start vehicle when vehicle is cold and block heater not plugged in is to spray starter fluid in the intake (possibly the reason for the vehicle shaking a lot when at low idle/stop lights)
• too much fuel consumption
• codes P0106, P1562, P0128
• glowplug light only stays on for 1/2 a second prior to attempted starting
• needing to jump start vehicle all the time (weak battery)
• airbag light stays will not go out

I think this is the complete list of all my symptoms. Will a VAG-COM help me figure out the exact reason for my car problems or should I just replace the battery and the engine coolant temp. sensor (already replaced the brake switch) and see what happens? Will the VAG-COM be able to figure out why my airbag light stays on?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!!
Thanks,
Alicia

Flashing glow is virtually always related to brake switch or brake light bulbs. Oh your car will not last long starting on ether. A good battery is essential as you need 50 amps for the glow plugs plus enough power to get the rpm over 350 to get any fuel.

VagCom is what you need or find someone on this list near you:http://www.steve-hall.com/cgi-bin/VAG-Locator.pl I am on it but not close to you. With VagCom you can read the codes, log date, actuate devices.

VagCom will give you some information on all codes, and the Bentley Manual has all of them. I found P0106 at the Ross-Tech website and I will look in my Bentley tonight if I remember. If I forget you can send me email at chris_idzerda@yahoo.com


16490/P0106 - Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) (G71) or Barometric Pressure (BARO) (F96): Range / Performance

[edit]
Possible Symptoms

• unknown

[edit]
Possible Causes

• Wiring and/or connections faulty
• Leak in intake and/or exhaust
• G71 and/or F96 faulty
• Control Module faulty

[edit]
Possible Solutions

• Check wiring and connections
• Check for leak in intake or exhaust
• Check / Replace G71 and/or F96
• Check / Replace Controle Module

I now have a new problem with my 02 Jetta. On Friday, after leaving work, I was once again unable to start my car even with the new battery. I once again had to use the starter fluid. The car started as it has usually done (since starting to use the starter fluid). When I attempted to put the car into reverse, I momentarily had resistance getting it out of park. I was successful getting it into reverse and left the parking lot.

Well, 2 block away, I proceeded to drive up the onramp to the highway and my car seemed to have the 2, 3, 4, 5 second hesitation that I previously mentioned. After I let off the gas and then back on, the power never came back and it ended up stalling. I sat there for a while while cars sped past me until help arrived. After help arrived, I once again attempted to start the car, but it never did.

I had the car towed to a shop that deals a lot with diesels. Since it was already late in the day, they were getting ready to close down until Wednesday. One of the guys was nice enough to hook up their system (similar to VAG-Com) and pulled 6 codes (not the 3 which I had a couple days earlier). Here they are:

16490 MAP Range Performance
17970 P1562 Quantity Adj. Upper Limit Attained
17971 Quantity Adj. Lower Limit Attained
16512 Coolant Therm. Valve Temp below control range
16955 Brake Light Switch
17969 Quantity Adjuster Deviation

Today, my boyfriend and I went back and messed with the car for a while to try to get it started. We had to jump the battery, re-adjusted the brake switch and installed the coolant temp. sensor.

We also checked the fuel injector lines and determined that fuel was coming out of IP #1 & #3 and nothing coming out of 2 & 4.

What if anything should we try to do next? We are at a loss.

Thanks for your help!
Alicia

Hi. Almost sounds like a bad injection pump. However, your belt (timing) may be loose. Do you still have access to it? If so, would you like a hand?

Hi Alicia,

If you can take a breather and try to relax... ahhh....

You may have a few things to contend with and I believe some may be unrelated. I hope to he!! that it's not your IP, and in case it is not, here are some ideas about our A4 ALH TDIs that may help you out:

Please change your fuel and air filters, even if you think they're new. If you burn the bean as either WVO or biodiesel, you may have a decreased filter life because of debris or water in the fuels (esp when colder like now).

Now, if you're able to check I'd scour the fuel system from the line going into the stock TDI fuel filter, to the lines from there to the IP (injection pump) and then Engine, and then back to the filter. If you have an air leak (which may present as a tiny fuel drip) then this could very easily cause the described symptoms.

Next, about Vag-Com codes. If your TDI ECU (electronic control unit) has not had a code looked at before, I bet you that the ones that were read (which you wrote down) were cumulative from some minor probs that didn't flash a CEL over the 72k miles on the car.

A. The P0128 in combination with a TDIHeater/Zerostart heater is most likely the coolant temp sensor, which you may get replaced. A $14 part that YOU can actually replace quite easily. The one with your car are very prone to failure, the new ones have a better track record:
The green one is what you need - http://www.tdiparts.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=351
How To thread:
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=159069

And if you do it yourself, please remember that there is a thick O-ring that is last to come out after you remove the sensor in the first place. It's messy, but if you can keep your finger in "in the dyke" then you will get minimal spillage.


B. Blinking glowplug light = 99% certain that it's your brake light switch, or you have a tail light out. Check ALL outside bulbs to make sure they work, including lights on at night.

Another cheap ($10) and easy replacement:
http://www.tdiparts.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=572

Replacement:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1158315

C. CHECK ALL OF YOUR FUSES, which are in the panel on the left of the dash when your driver's door is open. Go through each one to make sure that they are not blown. You'd be suprised what VW put on similar circuits. Check each one, again please, as they can lead to big headaches (and $$$ thrown at other "fixes") if you miss one.

D. Has your car yet had a Timing Belt change???
Is your car idling ok when at a stop?
Is there ANY loud noise coming from the IP at idle which waxes and wanes?
If no belt change that you're aware of, that's a priority. PM me for more info, please.

E. Your MAF may be bad. under $100 and a do-it-yourself again.

So, what I think you should do is:
1. check your bulbs and fuses, and look for fuel leaks
2. rechange your air and fuel filters (just take the hit $-wise, if you don't have restriction gauge readings then you can't know for sure, so I suggest just changing them to "rule them out" as causative)
3. change your coolant temp sensor yoursefl ($14)
4. change your brake light switch yourself ($10) if #1 is 100% ok (even one bulb or one fuse can screw things up and throw codes)
5. change your MAF yourself (~$80)

I'd be VERY suprised if these few things don't smooth out many of your A4 woes.

These, and many more things, are situations that I've directly dealth with as you have, from not knowing about them and being FREAKED by the scare of an IP, etc. when a small and cheap find will most likely fix your A4.

Peace,
Scott

Update on my dead 02 Jetta

Hi All,

Here is the latest info on my dead 02 Jetta. It's still parked at a shop in Albany. What Frank and I have done to the vehicle since Friday is...

• change the coolant temp sensor with a new green one
• clean the MAP sensor (connections looked fine, could not test since could not get car started)
• checked all the fuses in the fuse panel by the driver side door (now the red light on the bottom inside of the driver and passenger doors comes on, didn't even notice they were there)
• jump the new battery to again try to start the car...unsuccessful
• checked to see if fuel was coming out of all the injectors and found out fuel was coming out of #1 & #3, but not out of #2 or #4 (Which order does the fuel injectors shoot fuel???? Does this having anything to do with the timing belt???)
• Frank and I were going to replace the fuel temp. sensor, part# 028 906 040 C after work today, but can't seem to find this part anywhere in the area. I've called several VW dealerships & auto parts stores for the part, but all have at least a 2-day wait. It was funny, because a few of the dealerships insisted that the part wasn't located in the IP or was directly part of the IP that could only be replaced by replacing the IP.
• Also had to change a tire because I got a nail in the tread when I was stuck on the side of the road. Can anything else go wrong?

One more thing, does anyone know of a sensor/electrical connector that just hangs there behind the passenger side headlight by the windshield washer fluid? I have one there that isn't connected to anything. It's been like that for a few months, and I can't seem to find out what it goes to or if it's only connected if my car has a certain feature or light.

I'm a little stressed these days because I have no idea how long I will be without my car, how much it will cost and having to depend on Frank to drive me to and from work.

Thanks for any help you may have to offer!
Alicia & Frank

For the price of all of the parts you've thrown at the car or are contemplating (most of which were needlessly I think), you could have purchased a vag-com cable and been able to help yourself (and us trying to help you) much much more. Be that as it may, what is the history of the car ? How long have you owned it, previous maintenance history, mileage, etc. Even though you might get the car started with ether, you really should not use it. When did the vibration at idle start ? Any strange noises ? What fuel do you burn ? What cold weather fuel treatment additive do you use ? The fuel temperature sensor is inside the top of the injection pump, not a job for the uninformed rookie, and impossible to do without having a vag-com. That MrChill bubba, while not exactly next door to you, might well be your best bet for a resolution to your problems.

So far, I've only purchased 2 things, a new battery ($71) and the coolant temp sensor $35 (code 16512 Coolant Therm. Valve Temp below control range).

As far as the history of the car...I purchased the vehicle in Aug 2005 with 49,950 miles (now has 71,000 miles. I got a car fax when I bought the car and it showed that proper maintenance was performed on the vehicle and all recalls/campaigns were performed.

The oil has been changed every 3-5k miles, diesel filter has been replaced a couple times, replaced the air filter, just replace the battery. I did not have the timing chain/belts service at 60k miles since I was pretty unfamiliar with owning a diesel. I've had CEL codes before and none of them have ever pulled codes like these until now.

• 17970 P1562 Quantity Adj. Upper Limit Attained
• 17971 Quantity Adj. Lower Limit Attained before now
• 17969 Quantity Adjuster Deviation

I have had the MAP sensor code 16490 MAP Range Performance for a few weeks now, but didn't want to rush out to buy a new one.

About 2 1/2 months ago I had trouble starting the vehicle & getting the vehicle out of park, but it never pulled the code 16955 Brake Light Switch until now.

I shaking started about a week after I was using the starter fluid, but I was unaware that it was a weak battery might have been the cause of my trouble starting. Also, about a week after I started using the starter fluid, is when the glowplug light started flashing and the CEL came on.

I knew something was going on, but didn't know what to do, so was doing my research on here. I also had to keep driving my car since I still had to get to work.

I know the fuel temp. sensor is located in the top of the IP. I have really good directions and pictures from this site to change the part, so I don't think that will be a problem at all. According to Wingnut, http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?p=707683 VAG-Com is not required to replace the fuel temp. sensor, except to maybe give you the codes. It seems to be a very simple job.

The questions I have asked my previous post are not being answered:

1. Which order does the fuel injectors shoot fuel?
2. Does this having anything to do with the timing belt?
3. What is the sensor/electrical connector that just hangs there behind the passenger side headlight by the windshield washer fluid? I have one there that isn't connected to anything. It's been like that for a few months, and I can't seem to find out what it goes to or if it's only connected if my car has a certain feature or light.

Thanks,
Alicia

That sensor is the source of your MAP fault. It is the MAP sensor. Why isn't it connected?

__. Sorry to jump in on this Alicia. But there are a few things that you should know:

1) If the engine doesn't turn over a certain minimum number of RPM's, the engine control system won't feed fuel to the engine. This is to stop the engine from "flooding". The double whammy of this is that cold weather drops the power of a battery, and makes the engine turn over slower. This could have something to do with your problems (also, it can be hard to pull enough "juice" through jumper cables to start a cold TDI.) And "new" batteries are more likely to be bad than a two-year old one.

2) Many of us here have heard of mechanics who aren't really knowledgeable about TDI's telling owners that injection pumps need to be changed when there's nothing wrong with them, they only need to be properly timed, or could be fixed for $25. But *sometimes* the pump will actually be bad. I have never overhauled one of these pumps but I can't believe that any pump that's working properly would inject fuel to two injector lines and none to the other two. Maybe somebody out there knows more about this but I have a gut feeling you have a bad pump. But I'd do everything I could to confirm this and/or fix any other problems first.

3) This could have something to do with your timing belt. Worst case, it jumped teeth (they sometimes do that when they're past the service mileage and the belts have stretched a bit) -- this will result in the timing being off. Sometimes, the timing will be off just from a little wear over time. And sometimes there are other (rarely occurring) timing belt problems that can cause start problems.

4) Do you know the difference between the "MAP" and "MAF" sensors? Please take a picture of the loose wiring and connector that's hanging near your headlight and post it here.

5) It sounds as if you have a bad brake light switch (some people have had to replace a number of these one after the other). It's probably completely unrelated to your starting/running problems, but it should be fixed immediately. (And check to see if your car is included in the VW brake light recall.)

__. If you're at 71K miles on this car, I'd get the belt changed immediately. As part of this, you'll get a complete correct timing on the cam and injection pump. You need to do this maintenance anyway and it will be a valuable thing to give you more info on whether the injector pump is bad or not.

__. And if you're using the right oil, you shouldn't change it earlier than 10,000 miles (unless there's some good reason to -- coolant in the oil, "severe service", poor results from oil analysis, etc.)

As I said before in the other thread, your boyfriend did not properly install the brake light switch and you'll need to get another one. This time make sure he hold the pedal all the way up while pushing the switch into place (if it is a lavender switch). The newest switches don't have special installation instructions. The brake light switch is also a recall item for the Jetta so you might check with the dealer about getting one installed for free.

Note that a faulty brake light switch can cause intermittent performance problems. The computers are programmed to cut power when you put your foot on the brake. If it thinks you put your foot on the brake, or didn't take your foot off, it won't go like you think it should. Your description of a few seconds of power loss (you probably push the go pedal a few times in that few seconds) and then it goes again would indicate this as a possibility.

MOGolf said:

That sensor is the source of your MAP fault. It is the MAP sensor. Why isn't it connected?

Click to expand...

I'm pretty sure it's not the MAP sensor since Frank cleaned the MAP sensor (which is located underneith the windshield washer fluid container) and it's already plugged in. This is a different electrical connector that looks like it comes from the passenger side headlight area. I will take a picture of it this evening and post it on here.

Alicia

The other connector may be for low washer fluid sensor in the tank. Is that light on?
Or check for the wiring from the hood latch switch. Its wiring normally runs to a connector above the right headlight.

MOGolf said:

The other connector may be for low washer fluid sensor in the tank. Is that light on?
Or check for the wiring from the hood latch switch. Its wiring normally runs to a connector above the right headlight.

Click to expand...

__. Or the connector for the coolant (& the dreaded coolant migration portal) level sensor? But I'm basically baffled here.

MrGW, that connector is farther back in the engine compartment.

In the area of the headlight/washer bottle is (1) headlight (large connector with several wires), (2) washer fluid level (small two pin - brown/white and lilac/white), (3) MAP/IAT (4 pin), (4) hood latch switch (2 pin - brown/red and brown) usually clipped to support just above the headlamp), and for the 3L washer bottle one could have the washer pump connector (2 pin - green/red and green/white) down there.

MOGolf said:

MrGW, that connector is farther back in the engine compartment. (snip)

Click to expand...

__. Yeah, that's what I thought but I'm just pretty baffled by the description. I still have a hard time believing that it's anything other than the MAP sensor but I sure wouldn't bet on it.

Picture of mystery connector

How do you post a picture here? I clicked on the little icon that says insert image and it pops up a box that is looking for me to enter the URL of the picture. I have no idea what the URL is. There is no button to click on for browse (I can find the picture that way) either.

Today, my car is in the hands of the auto shop, so I'm pretty nervous as to what the co$t is going to be to diagnose my car. Have a feeling that they are going to say IP, even though I think it might just be the fuel temp sensor (3 codes pointing to the sensor).

Alicia

Perhaps the connector to the radiator rez?

scuba1968girl said:

How do you post a picture here? I clicked on the little icon that says insert image and it pops up a box that is looking for me to enter the URL of the picture. I have no idea what the URL is. There is no button to click on for browse (I can find the picture that way) either. (snip)

Click to expand...

__. Yeah, it's a really cludgy setup. Have to click onto the "photos" block on the blue stripe across the top of the page, log on onto the pictures feature separately (in fact, I think the first time, you have to re-set up your account from scratch with username and password), upload your photos to the pictures server, and when you do that you'll see two blocks at the bottom. One gives the URL and one gives a link that I think is a "UBB" link. Then you have to go back to the "Reply" window and include the link (you can "cut and paste" the link -- that's about the only easy part of the whole process). I've always used the short UBB link because that seems "internal" but I'm not really sure it's any better than URL. Anyway, it's hard to follow, and doesn't have very clear instructions but after you've played around with it a little, it works.

HTH, BH

(And I'm sorry that you had to go to a mechanic - I hope he's experienced on TDI's .... and that it's not too expensive.)

Please note that using starting fluid in the TDI can an do mess the engine up you say you keeep using it but DON"T not matter what or you may be buying a new engine. This has been said before on the thread but you still aid you went out and tried using it. Bad news.

I was stuck at work and could not get my car started no matter what. What is another way to get the car started? I can't call a tow truck every day to tow my car from work, it's not a good neighborhood where I have to park my car (frequent shootings and personal attacks on people), I also have to sometimes work until after dark and I'm alone. I don't have any place right now to plug in my TDI heater. How to you suggest that I get the car started???

Mystery connection

Ok, I am attempting to post the picture of my mystery connector here. If it doesn't work, you can find it in the members albums. [/IMG]

If you follow the wiring, I believe that it is another connector to your right headlight assembly. Their holders snap off commonly. Not an issue (unless your headlights are porblematic, of course

Did the mechanic(s) provide you with any more info?

Good luck again.

Here is the latest info on my car. The shop called to tell me that they did a compression test of the engine (not the IP). The compression in #1 & #3 are withing normal ranges, but 2 & 4 are low. He said there is a lot of carbon buildup. He said that there was a chunk of carbon holding the EGR open.

I asked him what would they do to correct the problem. He said that he would first have to drop the pan and check the barings (since I had been using the starter fluid). I asked him how much would this cost and he said "it's hard to tell, but the last time a guy came in with this problem, it cost over $3000" (somehow, I knew he was going to say that...women's intuition maybe). I asked him how much it cost to diagnose and he said 1 hr labor, which is $70.

I told him thank you, and that I was not going to have the vehicle repaired therer and would have the car towed. Frank and I will tow my car with his tonight and take it back to his house.

What do y'all think about this diagnosis?

The "what is it?" connector is the one to the hood release switch for the alarm system.

Search on "clogged intake" and you'll find many posts and there's plenty of info on cleaning it out. You don't want to just scrape without taking off the intake manifold or you can do serious damage to the engine.

That's an odd routing of fuel lines. Has this car been modified?

MOGolf said:

The "what is it?" connector is the one to the hood release switch for the alarm system.

Search on "clogged intake" and you'll find many posts and there's plenty of info on cleaning it out. You don't want to just scrape without taking off the intake manifold or you can do serious damage to the engine.

That's an odd routing of fuel lines. Has this car been modified?

Click to expand...

Thanks about the hood release switch for the alarm. Where is it supposed to be plugged in?

I understand about cleaning the intake manifold.

I don't understand what you mean about "odd routing of fuel lines"? The only modification with my car that I am aware of is a veggie conversion kit that I helped install. I've been running veggie (when the engine is hot) for over a year now with relatively few problems.

scuba1968girl said:

Thanks about the hood release switch for the alarm. Where is it supposed to be plugged in?

I understand about cleaning the intake manifold.

I don't understand what you mean about "odd routing of fuel lines"? The only modification with my car that I am aware of is a veggie conversion kit that I helped install. I've been running veggie (when the engine is hot) for over a year now with relatively few problems.

Click to expand...

Anyone else thinking IP problem?

Great job so far even without success and good call on getting the car back to Franks place. You both seem willing to get your hands dirty and don't seem intimidated by the TDI working on it. Go back and read your thread from your original post. I believe the answers to your sick TDI are there. I just finished reading the threads, I'd put all my money and energy in another brake switch and install it according to "how to" thread. I would rip that MAP sensor out and bring it to wherever to match it for a NEW one. I know you two took it out and cleaned it and it looks good and all but.........
When you get the NEW MAP take the old one and toss that thing as far as you can toward a garabge can. Many around here use technical jargon and thats great, but not a commoners words. The brainbox is not thinking properly during start-up with a "faulty" MAP/brake switch. Period, end of excuses for not replacing them, its messed up the fuel charge and all that other mystery stuff doesn't matter, it doesn't like the information it is getting. After you have done those 2 tasks do one more, ohm test all the fuses, visual doesn't count. I trust the advise some of these guys have given you, they post their names and phone numbers without worry. I am not going to wish you luck, you won't need it once you eliminate all the recommendations given here on this forum.

And while your out hunting up the MAP sensor take the new battery with you and have it tested, eliminate that question. New batteries are known to be marginal out of the box.