Clogged intake ports (head)

Anyone out there cleaned the intake ports in the head when cleaning the manifold?

I plan on cleaning my intake myself. Not in a hurry 'cause I'm only at 64K but after seeing the videos I realize it is important to get the CCV filter in and lower the EGR as soon as possible. Although it is relatively straightforward to cleaning the intake it is another matter cleaning the intake ports on the head. Looks as though rotating the engine crank to close the intake valve and scraping and blowing out with compressed air is the way to go. Do this four times with the other ports covered with duct tape. I would like to use a little Kerosene to get them squeeky but fear that the valves do not seal completely and too much would get into the cylinder...

JS, I think you're on the right track. Just keep your face out of the way when you let loose with the compressed air!
Also, I think you need to use something like popsicle sticks
to do the scraping; if you slip near the edge with anything metallic you could damage the gasket surface.

jsweinrich;

An admirable goal, and YUP!....you 've definitely got a spot reserved for yourself in TDi heaven. Go for it....but I'd be surprised if you have a real sooting problem at that low milage on a 97 Passat.

I think you might qualify for the "least milage" Passat TDi - I am jealous!

I recently de-gooped my 96 Passat TDi (first time) with over twice your milage and although the manifold was virtually completely clogged (a miracle it actually ran), the ports had only about 3/16 to 1/8 inch of goop immediately around the leading edge which abuts the manifold - tapering off to almost nothing deeper into the head.

After cleaning the manifold squeaky clean, I felt guilty not cleaning the ports / head but I was more than a bit intimidated by the horror stories of dropping crap into the cylinders and screwing up the works. So after a lot of head scratching (MY head that is), I took the hi tech route. I stuffed a cotton ball in each port and used the fine tools of a craftsman (my dialing finger) to remove and/or recontour the offending accumulation of goop to smooth the transition between manifold and port. (I think you have to be a contortionist to use any tool other than your finger - given the incredibly awkward positions you have to work in) . I then vacuumed out the loose goop as best I could (my advice - construct a 1/2 to 3/4" diameter 90 degree fitting for the end of your shop vac so you can actually get down and right into the port to evacuate any garbage you knocked loose) I then vacuumed out the cotton balls and reassembled the beast. Everything ran fine.

As an aside, A local mechanic who has a fair bit of experience cleaning these manifolds AND PORTS never starts his vehicles immediately after re-assembly. He ALWAYS tows the vehicle in gear for a couple of blocks to turn the engine over and then starts and runs them. ????? You figure it out!

I like your kerosene idea. Logically, if the valves hold hot air under just less than 20 odd pounds of pressure, they should keep Kerosene under atmospheric pressure from entering. In theory, one should be able to close the valves, use a kerosene low pressure (engine) spray to really loosen and flush each port separately and then use a combination of suction and airpressure to remove the disolved goop and residual kerosene/goop solution. Air drying and evaporating ALL remaining kerosene would be a good idea before starting the engine, but if your reassembly was as slow as mine was, time was my friend-not my enemy.

Now, if we can just find someone to test this theory.........
If you do it...please post a report...it will raise manifold cleaning a couple of notches.

Oh Yeah! Some one who knows much more about this than me, told me that BMW and MB use pulverized walnut shells to "bead blast" intake ports and then vacuums out the organic shell media.

Good luck!

Lorne M

Thanks for the great feedback. You're right, I probably don't have much goop in the ports but I want to get it all.

The kerosene will probably leak past the valve. Valves do seal well but they are not perfectly liquid tight so some will probably leak past. I figure kerosene or even diesel would not hurt the engine as long as there is not so much that the compression stroke blows a head gasket. I can hand crank the engine to make sure there isn't too much fluid and allow some to leak past the piston rings.

Thanks.