2010 JSW Clutch Pedal Problem

jimmyfine

Veteran Member
Joined
Mar 26, 2019
Location
Sumter, South Carolina
TDI
2001 Jetta TDI, 2010 JSW TDI, 2014 BMW 328D Wagon
Good afternoon, to start off I just picked up a 2010 JSW 6speed manual with 150K miles and have some issues to work out.

While the wife is driving, this has not happened to me, the pedal will stick to the floor but when pulled up will pop right back and function properly. I have inspected the linkages on the trans and found no signs of wear and cannot replicate the problem, any ideas where to start?
 

JSWTDI09

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Jan 31, 2009
Location
Las Vegas, Nevada
TDI
2009 JSW TDI (gone but not forgotten)
This may or may not be related but when troubleshooting clutch issues it is always a good idea to start with checking the brake fluid reservoir. The clutch is hydraulic and it uses the same brake fluid. However the system is designed so that low fluid will effect the clutch operation before it effects the brakes. If the brake fluid is full, then you are back to looking for other causes.


Have Fun!


Don
 

jimmyfine

Veteran Member
Joined
Mar 26, 2019
Location
Sumter, South Carolina
TDI
2001 Jetta TDI, 2010 JSW TDI, 2014 BMW 328D Wagon
Solved: The Master Cylinder was worn out in as way that the plunger was sticking to the cylinder wall. It was doing this more often so I lubricated the cylinder while the pedal was depressed and it not longer stuck the floor to the point that the clutch was stuck engaged but would occasionaly still stick. I replaced to master cylinder, bled the system, and topped off the resevior to make sure it had enough fluid and so far (about 1 1/2 months) the pedal has felt new with no further issues.

Master cylinder bleeding method (because I did not see it explained this way anywhere): I used a regular harbor freight hand vacuum bleeder to bleed the system and a bottle of DOT4 fluid.
1. Connect a tube to the bleeder down by where the line goes into the transmission and put that into the brake fluid bottle with the valve open.
2. make sure connection from master cylinder to slave cylinder is connected but the line going to the brake fluid resevior is NOT connected.
3. Connect the vacuum pump (with collection bottle) to the supply line connection on the master cylinder and pump until no more air comes out or collection bottle is full.
4. Close bleeder valve so the fluid does not back-flow down and let it sit for about 10 minutes so any possible air rises up. You can remove the brake fluid bottle from the bleeder now.
5. Disconnect vacuum pump and connect it to the resevior line, then fill the resevior to slightly over full and pump the clutch pedal to ensure everything is working as intended with no leaks, also remove the bottle and hose at the bleeder if you haven't done that yet.
 
Top