2004 Golf TDI (BEW) Turbo Replacement

FeraTechInc · Apr 26, 2012

Hey guys. I need some help.

My turbo is spewing oil into my intake. I'm really short on cash but I really need to get this done soon.

I've been looking through prices for a new turbo and haven't found much for my BEW engine.

I would love some recommendations. I've done most of the work on my car myself. However, I'm not sure how hard a turbo replacement is nor how long it would take.

I live around Chicago. If there is anybody with leads on a turbo or knows a good mechanic that can do it for really cheap I would greatly appreciate it.

2004 Golf TDI GL
Engine Code: BEW
Turbo is original factory installed.

turbocharged798 · Apr 27, 2012

Well, my suggestions would be either find a good used stock KP39(they can be had for 200-300) but the labor is going to be killer and there is always a chance that the turbo won't last. The other option is get a new VNT17 from Idparts(around 800-900). You will also need the modified EGR pipe.

There is a great guru is st. Louis but he is not going to be cheap. If you want cheap you will have to DIY the job.

PDJetta · Apr 27, 2012

You should consider the VNT-17, but I have read that there could be some drivability issues.

I would not recommend buying a used turbocharger. You have no idea of its condition and its failure can take out your engine at the same time and the hassle to replace it is great (see below).

The stock KP-39 is here:

http://idparts.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=1332

I've had great luck with my original KP-39, with 150,000 miles on it with zero issues.

To replace you have to raise the car, support safely, and go in from the underneath. I do believe the passenger side drive axle has to be removed for clearance (maybe just disconnected from its drive flange on the transaxle) and I believe the intake manifold has to be removed first. I'd have to consult my Bentley manual for specifics, though. I can this evening, if you like.

--Nate

LNXGUY · Apr 27, 2012

How much oil is spewing into the intake?

I've got a KP39 I just pulled off my '05 BEW wagon.. Great condition, no shaft play, ran strong before removal, actuator works great.

mogwai · Apr 27, 2012

+1 for the VNT-17. I purchased one from IDparts along with the EGR pipe and got a Malone Stage 1.5 tune to go along with it. Feels like a completely different car and I'm not worried about another KP39 packing it in when it feels like it.

BobnOH · Apr 27, 2012

agreed the new turbo is the best solution, but if cash is real scarce, call your local salvage yards, they will usually (ask) guarantee a working part. Be sure to beat them up on the price as best you can

AARodriguez Corp. · Apr 27, 2012

PDJetta said:
To replace you have to raise the car, support safely, and go in from the underneath. I do believe the passenger side drive axle has to be removed for clearance (maybe just disconnected from its drive flange on the transaxle) and I believe the intake manifold has to be removed first. I'd have to consult my Bentley manual for specifics, though. I can this evening, if you like.

--Nate

I just replaced my kp39 from above the engine with no trouble.

halocline · Apr 27, 2012

The drivability issue that nate was referring to is the fact that on the earlier VNT17, the electronic smart actuator was biased differently than the KP39, so (if I'm getting this right) the signal it sent to the ECU was basically ignored, leaving the ECU to work solely on the N75 and MAF sensors to adjust fueling to the turbo movement. This caused some lagginess, some spikiness, and some weird hesitations that were connected to the EGR and ASV. At least I think that's a synopsis of the situtation. Garrett has since started selling VNT17s with the correct actuator for U.S. BEW engine use, so if you buy one now it 'should' work great, and it is a much beefier turbo than the KP39. That was told to me directly from a turbo rebuild shop that works on both of these turbos all the time.

So if you're buying a new turbo like you should, get the VNT17 with the newer actuator. I'm pretty sure IDparts is on top of this and will send you the right one.

Now the rest of us VNT17 owners are just waiting for garrett to supply the updated actuator so we can swap out ours. My car, with the VNT17 actuator rod adjust out really far, is a bit laggy but otherwise is very smooth and fuel economy jumped a few mpg from the KP39.

AARodriguez Corp. · Apr 27, 2012

halocline said:
The drivability issue that nate was referring to is the fact that on the earlier VNT17, the electronic smart actuator was biased differently than the KP39, so (if I'm getting this right) the signal it sent to the ECU was basically ignored, leaving the ECU to work solely on the N75 and MAF sensors to adjust fueling to the turbo movement. This caused some lagginess, some spikiness, and some weird hesitations that were connected to the EGR and ASV. At least I think that's a synopsis of the situtation. Garrett has since started selling VNT17s with the correct actuator for U.S. BEW engine use, so if you buy one now it 'should' work great, and it is a much beefier turbo than the KP39. That was told to me directly from a turbo rebuild shop that works on both of these turbos all the time.

So if you're buying a new turbo like you should, get the VNT17 with the newer actuator. I'm pretty sure IDparts is on top of this and will send you the right one.

Now the rest of us VNT17 owners are just waiting for garrett to supply the updated actuator so we can swap out ours. My car, with the VNT17 actuator rod adjust out really far, is a bit laggy but otherwise is very smooth and fuel economy jumped a few mpg from the KP39.

A friend has the newest VNT17 with the good and functional garret actuator, I asked him tonight if he was going to do it over again, would he buy a new KP39 or VNT17, he said he would have bought the KP39 if he could do it over again.

VNT17 is a beastly upgrade, but the drivability was better with kp39

Disappointing really, I was tempted to spring for one...

halocline · Apr 28, 2012

I had two KP39s go before 60K miles; the original at about 45K right after I bought the car, and a dealer reman (probably a pice of crap to begin with) fail 14K miles later. They put it on for free, and I got what I paid for! I had zero interest on going for number 3.

turbocharged798 · Apr 28, 2012

I think if my KP39 Blew up, I would use a ALH VNT15 with the PD actuator. It will retain the small turbo for quick spool yet should be quite a bit better than the KP39s.

PDJetta · Apr 28, 2012

I just checked my Bentley and it does not cover step-by-step the turbo removal procedure, but lists the components and the tightening torques and which gaskets, nuts and bolts must be replaced. The only removal guidance given is this:

16 - Turbocharger

Can only be replaced with exhaust manifold

To remove exhaust turbocharger disconnect right axle shaft at transmission: Suspension, Wheels, Steering - Repair Group Rep. Gr. 40

So it looks like it is supposed to come out from underneath.

You need to pour some oil into the oil line fitting at the turbo to lube it after installing and before connecting the oil line.

--Nate

PDJetta · Apr 28, 2012

Newzboys said:
I just replaced my kp39 from above the engine with no trouble.

Did you have to remove the intake manifold first?

--Nate

AARodriguez Corp. · Apr 28, 2012

PDJetta said:
Did you have to remove the intake manifold first?

--Nate

Absolutely! I've got a tiny pneumatic air wratchet that takes all the work out of the job.

FeraTechInc · May 2, 2012

My primary goal is to have something reliable. I drove over 50,000 miles last year.

I'm not looking for a big boost but hopefully something that would last over 100k.

Also, how much would a shop charge for replacement? Does anybody know somebody in Chicago that is reliable?

AARodriguez Corp. · May 3, 2012

FeraTechInc said:
My primary goal is to have something reliable. I drove over 50,000 miles last year.

I'm not looking for a big boost but hopefully something that would last over 100k.

Also, how much would a shop charge for replacement? Does anybody know somebody in Chicago that is reliable?

Just a guess, $300-600 in labor

86turbodsl · May 3, 2012

I am in the middle of this. It's easy to remove the intake and pull out from above. I didn't do anything with the halfshaft. My KP39 went at 214K, and it had an easy life. I have a very easy drive cycle. I went with the VNT17.

FeraTechInc · May 3, 2012

I found the GT1749VB witch is the VNT17 on ebay for $700 however it says it's for the ALH engine and not the BEW. Is there a different part model number between the different engines?

Also, anybody know a shop around chicago that would do the install closer to the $300 range?

slim83 · May 3, 2012

86turbodsl said:
I am in the middle of this. It's easy to remove the intake and pull out from above. I didn't do anything with the halfshaft. My KP39 went at 214K, and it had an easy life. I have a very easy drive cycle. I went with the VNT17.

How do you like it? I am on the fence between the KP39 and the VNT17. The price is not much more between the 2 relatively speaking and my current turbo (original KP39 with 230K miles) has finally bit the dust.

tjsean0308 · Mar 12, 2015

Digging this one up from the grave. I just purchased the VNT17 and found this thread after the fact.

AARodriguez, Did your friend end up getting a tune? If so how was the drivability after? I am expecting to not like the lag initially but prepared to buy a tune if its terrible. I just don't like the idea of putting the KP39 back on and having it die again. This one lasted about 180k but I like to eliminate weak points when I can.

turbocharged798 · Mar 12, 2015

I went in the middle and ended up putting a new VNT15 on our BEW and its been running great on the stock tune. You'll need the smart actuator and a few other things to make it work but its great otherwise.

2004 Golf TDI (BEW) Turbo Replacement

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