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Go Back   TDIClub Forums > TDI Model Specific Discussions Areas > VW Passat Family (NMS and B7) TDIs (2012+)

VW Passat Family (NMS and B7) TDIs (2012+) Discussion area for the 2012+ Passat TDI (North American and rest of world versions versions). The North American model was previously codenamed NMS (New Midsize Sedan) and the version the rest of the world gets is sometimes referred to as B7.

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Old April 23rd, 2019, 19:03   #1
BKmetz
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Default CVCA Oil Change Tips, with photos

I hear and read people complain on how difficult it is to change the oil on the CVCA engine (gen-3 engine, 2015 0nly) because of the wire loom that's in the way. I find oil changes on the CVCA easier and cleaner than the CKRA engines. Removing the belly pan is the same so I'm not going into that process.

Take the belly pan off and yes, there is this wire loom right in the way. What to do about that? Move it out of the way!


The Loom is held in place by a plastic retention thingie, an electric plug, and a plastic bracket (off photo). All are easily dealt with. Location of the plastic retention part and the electric plug. I believe the electric plug is to a valve that controls coolant flow to one of the cooling system sub-loops. Look closely at the electric plug. There is a small lock piece that has to be moved before the plug will release. A small screwdriver works well.


The photo above shows a cable tie instead of the retention widget. By the time I pried mine off it was so mangled that I installed a reusable cable tie. Reusable cable ties are available at any hardware store or big-box home supply store.


Off toward the transmission side, right next to the starter is this plastic bracket. Pry the tab and the bracket will slide off its mounting. Once off you flip it to where you can see the other side. Unlock it and the wire loom is easily removed. When installing just put the wire loom in and don't bother locking it. Then just slide the bracket onto its mount. The loom will stay put. Then the next time you change your oil just slide the loom out the top of the bracket. No need to remove the bracket.


Use a short bungee cord to hold the wire loom out of the way.




Continued.

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Last edited by BKmetz; April 26th, 2019 at 22:22. Reason: added detail
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Old April 23rd, 2019, 19:30   #2
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To minimize oil spilling down the side of the engine and all over the oil pan, stuff a shop towel, rag, whatever, between the oil filter canister housing and the engine block.


Use a 13mm socket to remove the oil filter canister housing drain plug.


Wait a few minutes to let the oil drain out of the filter housing, then use a 32mm socket to remove the oil filter cap. Notice that some oil spilled and ran down the rag instead of the engine when I drained the oil filter housing.


Shameless plug time! One can use any 32mm socket. I picked up the IDParts brand plug when I bought my oil change kit from them. I don't know why it's labeled 32.5mm but it's a lot cheaper than buying a regular 32mm socket. I happen to have a full set of metric sockets that includes a 32mm.


Remove the oil filter housing, remove the filter, replace the two O-rings. Close up of the small O-Ring.


Notice the location of the large O-Ring. It sits it a groove. It does NOT sit against the lower lip of the oil filter housing cap.


When installing the oil filter housing cap and its drain plug, just tighten until snug. Start both by hand and hand tighten, then use a socket to snug up. You're dealing with plastic, stupid easy to over-torque. The torque spec for the oil filter canister housing cap is 25.5NM, ~19ft-lbs, about the same a spark plug. The torque spec for the oil filter canister housing drain plug is 5.2NM, ~4ft-lbs, that's just snug.

The rest of the oil change is like any other car. 19mm for the drain plug. Don't lose the washer!

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Last edited by BKmetz; April 23rd, 2019 at 20:30. Reason: added info
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Old April 24th, 2019, 03:52   #3
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That is how I do them, however, I should note that the NMS has more room under there than the NCS Jetta and Beetle and Golfs.

You'll also want to beware that the oil temps on these get into the range of what the old air cooled engines got hauling a Bus full of fat chicks through the desert in August. So best to plan not to be in a hurry if you can, and do it while it is perhaps not just come off a long drive and allow it to drain for a while. Hot oil drains faster, but it burns faster, too.
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Old April 24th, 2019, 05:55   #4
steves96tdi
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^^^^ Thanks!!
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Old April 24th, 2019, 12:31   #5
740GLE
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oilhammer View Post
That is how I do them, however, I should note that the NMS has more room under there than the NCS Jetta and Beetle and Golfs.

I read the horror stories of the GSW and MQB oil changes and expected doom on our Passat '15 first change and was kinda let down as it seemed rather trivial and maybe a little more difficult albeit more messy.

I usually snag an old water bottle from the recycling, cut the top off and place it under the filter drain plug to try and catch what I can, it greatly reduces the initial splash back of a full load dropping in the catch pan 2-3 feel away.
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Old April 25th, 2019, 04:45   #6
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How about cutting the bottom out of a plastic grocery bag and tying the bag around the filter housing to make a sleeve? I haven't personally changed the oil on my 2015 yet, since I still have free dealership oil changes left, but it seems like a cheap and easy way to contain the drips.
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Old April 25th, 2019, 05:09   #7
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If you take your time, and use the oil filter drain plug, there is not much need for anything fancy to catch anything really. Not that big of a deal. I can rattle off a dozen engines that are far, far worse.

My AWM B5 Passat comes to mind...

I think lots of TDI DIYrs have been spoiled by the super easy super non-messy top side filter cartridges. So these on the bottom seem like a pain. There are other VAG engines that have cartridge filters on the bottom like these, and they all have a drain in them specifically to minimize any mess potential. They just are not always open straight to the bottom... these are, though. If the car is sitting LEVEL, the oil filter drain WILL drain straight out past the engine right into the open. Just barely. But VR6 T'regs, any of the 4 cyl longitudinal Audis, have their filter drains right above the steering rack or subframe, so you DO make some sort of a mess no matter what.
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Old April 25th, 2019, 05:33   #8
740GLE
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roni024 View Post
How about cutting the bottom out of a plastic grocery bag and tying the bag around the filter housing to make a sleeve? I haven't personally changed the oil on my 2015 yet, since I still have free dealership oil changes left, but it seems like a cheap and easy way to contain the drips.
A while ago i placed a used oil filter in a grocery bag, it didn't take long for the spent oil to eat away the thin plastic of the grocery bag, weep and make a mess.

Agreed with oil hammer that it's not that bad, the past 2 changes I've only done it on ramps so a little oil did drip back on the front side of the block.

Next time (@40K) I'll be tossing the rear on jack stands to level it out as I'll be doing the DSG fluid change as well.
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