A4 Golf Timing belt question

I'm almost done with my '00 Golf's new timing belt job but have run into an odd problem. Got the main and cam seals replaced, new rollers et al and belt in, and have manually moved the belt through 3-4 cycles. The next step (per the club's pdf) is to bump the engine for a few secs to center the belt and see if it is riding OK on all the pulleys. My problem (if you can call it that) is that I can't bump the engine more than one or two compression cycles without it catching. So we were hitting the starter for tiny fractions of a second each time. Not really moving the belt all that much before it starts.

So my question is how to proceed: Just skip the belt alignment now and check it later when the engine is more together and can run for longer? Just turn it by hand a few dozen more times?

FWIW, right now the new tbelt is centered just fine on the cam pulley, but running a bit (1-2mm) more towards the engine on the IP pully. It's not hitting the inner cover but is closer to it than the old belt was. The old belt, btw, was in fine shape with no indications of side wear, so I would hope the new belt would not change that, but so far the new belt is running more to the engine on that IP pulley.

Suggestions?

A bit more info. Looks like the difference is the depth of the tensioner. The old one appears to hold the belt a bit (1-2mm) further away from the engine than this new one I have.

So is this OK. Should I take the tensioner off and shim it with a couple of washers? Did I get the wrong tensioner?

Any gurus seen this before and have an answer?

TIA

Mine was exactly the same...

1-2 mm closer to the block then the old belt. Apparently there is a difference in the "old" <160,000 km tensioner and the new 160,000 km tensioner that accounts for the difference. I do not recommend adding washers beneath (also that would reduce tensioner tab engagment)!

Jeff

Steve777 said:

A bit more info. Looks like the difference is the depth of the tensioner. The old one appears to hold the belt a bit (1-2mm) further away from the engine than this new one I have.

So is this OK. Should I take the tensioner off and shim it with a couple of washers? Did I get the wrong tensioner?

Click to expand...

The 1 - 2mm difference is fine. DO NOT SHIM THE TENSIONER.

Where'd you buy the parts kit from? The tensioner should be Litens branded.

Personally I don't like the 'bump with starter' directions. If it's pulled through 2 (minimum) turns by hand and the intake tubing is hooked back up, it's fine to start it briefly to check for belt tracking.

You could pull the wire off the IP and it won't fire if you wanted to check alignment with the starter. I've only done a couple timing jobs, but if you did it right, fire it up you know? It sounds as if you followed all the critical steps, and understand what is going on around that side of the engine. Fire it up!!!

Tensioner is a Ruville brand (made in Canada) and came as a kit with the tensioner and two smaller rollers. It is from one of the well known list vendors; and I checked with him and it is the right part set for an ALH w/ manual. Should be a good brand and the right ones for my engine/tranny combo.

I also did some more checking. The belt sits 1mm (I measured this time) further in on the cam pulley. But 2mm further in on the IP pulley. This is measuring from the discoloration on each of the pulleys to gauge where the belts used to ride.

The belt currently sits just even with the IP pulley, and a hair in from the edge of the cam pulley. There is still room (2-3mm) on the inside edge between the new belt and the cover, so no chance of rubbing; at least not now.

I am just wondering whether to stop and do some more investigation of this, or just live with it and monitor the new belt closely. Anyone seen this before?

TIA

Yup. And the difference in the tensioner is what moves the belt. The important thing is that the belt is on the pulleys. If part of the belt is hanging off a pulley, you'll have problems. But it is not, so you're golden.

And it wants to start right up. Hey, it sounds like you did everything just right. Now the fun of setting the static timing via the VCDS is next. Just be careful in that it takes only a very small movement to change the timing on the graph by a large amount.

A new belt always runs a little closer to the pump. You should be fine.