CV joint replacement?

has anyone ever replaced their CV joints?
I am wondering how big of a job it is?
What all tools are needed?

thanks in advance

I replaced my driver's side inner CV boot. Wasn't too hard to do. Depending on the miles on the car, in IMHO, it might be more economical to replace the whole CV drive shaft with inner and outer boots. Takes the same amount of effort to get the shaft out and quicker reassembly if you don't have to "rebuild" anything.

As for tools, you'll need jacking tools and car stands; triple square bits to remove the CV shaft flange bolts; and a 200-250 ftlb torgue wrench to set the hub wheel nut "by the book". The wheel nut and the steering knucke bolts are "one use" only and will have to be replaced.

Any of the low cost manuals will tell you how to do the job. Best of luck!

From what I've heard the OEM CV's are the best, way above and beyond any remanned units you might replace them with. I would take them apart, clean them up and re-grease. RE-install them with some OEM bootkits and you should be set for another 200,000 miles.

i think mine are too far gone for that. it clicks when you turn sharp, and it clunks when you go over bumps.
am i wrong?

Nope, you are right. Get that outta there before you break the axle. I know of two people who have snapped CV's while driving. I was very lucky and going really slow. My buddy had a Neon and when his axle let go, it took out his oil filter and a few other things. Quick thinking saved the motor. Lucky boy ...

My thoughts:

1. "As for tools, you'll need jacking tools and car stands; triple square bits to remove the CV shaft flange bolts; and a 200-250 ftlb torgue wrench to set the hub wheel nut "by the book"."

I have never used a torque wrench for the 30 MM axle nut, but I do torque the nut correctly. I first snug the nut down with a half inch drive ratchet. I finish all my work, and lower the car to the ground (tire on). Since I weigh a shade under 200 pounds, I just stand with one foot on my breaker bar with the 30 MM socket on it, at right angles to the nut, the handle parallel to the ground. The center of my foot is about 15 inches from the center of the socket. The tightest the nut will get doing this is a little over 200 ft. lbs. You do have to reset the socket and breaker bar a few times since the nut roates as it tightens, moving the breaker bar from parallel to the ground. The final resting point of the breaker bar has to be parallel to the ground, with you standing on one foot for this to be accurate. I gently hold onto the roof to stay on the breaker bar.

Most rebuilt drive axles I have bought are loose and "floppy", not nice and tight like OEM new joints, but I have had "rebuilts" last a long time. Get a lifetime warranty one and keep the receipt! You will never buy another axle for that side! I even warrantied one once after road debris tore a boot!

Its best if you can keep your old joints and just replace the boot (if the old boot is gone). If the joint is bad, you can't do this.

--Nate.

ok thanks for the info