scubagli
Veteran Member
You moved the trans forward to clear the fire wall, that is why you lengthed the drive shaft? Or did I miss something?
TDI Ranger Build
- Thread starter greengeeker
- Start date
greengeeker
Vendor
With your truck is the steering rack up front? Were you able to tuck the engine behind it without it getting too tight at the vacuum pump?
curtis75
Well-known member
That would be why. In a 4x4 you would lengthen the rear shaft and shorten the front shaft. You could try to make clearance on the firewall, but moving it forward helped me with clearance fo the oil filter and accessories as well.
I don't remember having an issue with the rack. I believe I am over top of it, and it sits low enough that I am ok, but I'm going from memory, but I could be just behind it. I'd have to go look. It's been a while since I actually got it bolted in the truck
greengeeker
Vendor
You know what would help with that? A build thread....with pictures.
Perfectreign
Veteran Member
Two questions:
First, how would a tranverse engine fit into a RWD truck? Is there some sort of existing adapter? Would you have to completely relocate the transmission?
Second, why not just go for the gusto and drop a 7.3 in the Ranger to keep with the Ford family? (j/k)
First, how would a tranverse engine fit into a RWD truck? Is there some sort of existing adapter? Would you have to completely relocate the transmission?
Second, why not just go for the gusto and drop a 7.3 in the Ranger to keep with the Ford family? (j/k)
jimbote
Certified Volkswagen Nut
the same way the factory truck engine fits in, longitudinally
... yes it takes an adapter some imagination and fabrication Perfectreign
Veteran Member
OICthe same way the factory truck engine fits in, longitudinally
Now, about that 7.3....
greengeeker
Vendor
http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=80575OIC
Now, about that 7.3....
curtis75
Well-known member
Yes it would but then everyone would see how slowly my project is going. hahaYou know what would help with that? A build thread....with pictures.
mcneil
Veteran Member
Hey, there's no shame in that. I'm going on year 2 now.
SmokeyWagn
Active member
started mine in Feb '12 and i still have get the gauges working
greengeeker
Vendor
Mileage update
Tank #4: 672.5miles on 17.4 gallons = 38.6 mpg
Tank #5: 690 miles on 17.9 gallons = 38.5 mpg
Tank #6: 680.4 miles on 17.7 gallons = 38.5 mpg
Hey, at least I'm consistent.
I'm looking at picking up a tonneau cover to see how well it improves FE. I'm also planning on doing a rear axle swap to drop the rpm....thinking about coordinating that with maybe a 2-3" drop.
Tank #4: 672.5miles on 17.4 gallons = 38.6 mpg
Tank #5: 690 miles on 17.9 gallons = 38.5 mpg
Tank #6: 680.4 miles on 17.7 gallons = 38.5 mpg
Hey, at least I'm consistent.
I'm looking at picking up a tonneau cover to see how well it improves FE. I'm also planning on doing a rear axle swap to drop the rpm....thinking about coordinating that with maybe a 2-3" drop.
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greengeeker
Vendor
Boost lag
From time to time I was noticing that my boost wasn't behaving nicely. Since I hadn't yet checked for boost leaks I made up a couple adapters to get that done.
And here they are with my regulator
In action
I also hooked up the steel blockoff plate to the turbo outlet to see if I was leaking anywhere on the exhaust side. I wasn't expecting to find anything since I had zero soot traces but I figured it couldn't hurt....well it almost did. When I pumped up the pressure to around 40psi it actually started rolling the engine over and driving the truck UP my driveway. Anyway, no leaks on the exhaust side but I did have a leak on the cold side right here at around 30psi. No I'm not hitting that level of boost now...but hopefully will be sooner rather than later.
I did also did a couple logs to see what was up:
In my first log you can see two separate 4th gear logs. The first was taken after a long run without using the brakes and shows good boost response. The 2nd was done after sitting at a stop sign (purposely depleating vacuum) and shows slow or laggy response which of course indicates that my actuator isn't seeing full vacuum at low rpms.
Here is another log showing reponse in 2nd, 3rd and then 4th gear.
The first thing I checked was my vacuum supply to the n75 which was lower than normal (15" Hg instead of the 25-28" that one should see). I traced this back to a loose vacuum pump nipple. I siliconed it up as a temporary solution to give me 20+ inches of vacuum.
Oh I also made a quick visit to Jfettig to get an updated tune from Malone. With the boost coming in early like it should thanks to fixing the vacuum leak, fixing the boost leak and most importantly getting the tune updated this thing now pulls! I can't wait to see how this thing moves when I throw some more fuel and boost at it.
From time to time I was noticing that my boost wasn't behaving nicely. Since I hadn't yet checked for boost leaks I made up a couple adapters to get that done.
And here they are with my regulator
In action
I also hooked up the steel blockoff plate to the turbo outlet to see if I was leaking anywhere on the exhaust side. I wasn't expecting to find anything since I had zero soot traces but I figured it couldn't hurt....well it almost did. When I pumped up the pressure to around 40psi it actually started rolling the engine over and driving the truck UP my driveway.
Anyway, no leaks on the exhaust side but I did have a leak on the cold side right here at around 30psi. No I'm not hitting that level of boost now...but hopefully will be sooner rather than later.
I did also did a couple logs to see what was up:
In my first log you can see two separate 4th gear logs. The first was taken after a long run without using the brakes and shows good boost response. The 2nd was done after sitting at a stop sign (purposely depleating vacuum) and shows slow or laggy response which of course indicates that my actuator isn't seeing full vacuum at low rpms.
Here is another log showing reponse in 2nd, 3rd and then 4th gear.
The first thing I checked was my vacuum supply to the n75 which was lower than normal (15" Hg instead of the 25-28" that one should see). I traced this back to a loose vacuum pump nipple. I siliconed it up as a temporary solution to give me 20+ inches of vacuum.
Oh I also made a quick visit to Jfettig to get an updated tune from Malone. With the boost coming in early like it should thanks to fixing the vacuum leak, fixing the boost leak and most importantly getting the tune updated this thing now pulls!
I can't wait to see how this thing moves when I throw some more fuel and boost at it.Ski in NC
Top Post Dawg
Any trouble with needing lots of cranking to get the Ranger fired off? AndyBees and 22rtdi have both done similar conversions and both have trouble getting lit off on the first crank.
greengeeker
Vendor
Not really. It doesn't light off on the first revolution but I believe it is the 3rd or 4th. And I'm using an 11 year old battery and a pieced together main ground cable. I'm pretty sure my cranking will slow WAY down when it starts to get colder and she starts pre-glowing.
jimbote
Certified Volkswagen Nut
I bet you won't have any hard start issues...mine has popped right off from day one (aside from the initial bad pump).... it literally explodes to life, hot or cold weather....I'm curious to see what's up with Andy's and 22r's hard start issue...I'm sending 22'r an immobilizer defeated ECM tomorrow so at least he can eliminate that from the list
greengeeker
Vendor
hmmm....I wonder why an immobilizer would cause a slow start? Do either of them have lift pumps?
greengeeker
Vendor
Dyno today!! I will report back later today with video, graphs, etc. Super pumped to finally get my baseline dyno.
I got to be a fly on the wall during testing!
Losha
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Mar 8, 2005
- Location
- Sioux Falls, SD
- TDI
- 06 Jetta TDI DSG, 2001 Golf TDI, Audi S6, A8, Toureg
Immobilizer would not have affect on slow start, its either will cause no start (dead completely with key in start position) or will let you start but will die instantly.
greengeeker
Vendor
Baseline dyno
Big thanks to Kriesel for coming over to Beach's Long Lake Service and helping out with the dyno runs. Testing went great. I logged data the entire time so I'll process that data later and post up the results.
Optical tach bracket
Run 1: Baseline 1, (no dyno cooling fan) http://youtu.be/c18VdTqRq-4
Run 2: Baseline 2 http://youtu.be/Z94ccH31u8c http://youtu.be/C1dk0uK3-qo
Run 3: Baseline 3
Run 4: No air filter
Run 5: No air filter, no muffler http://youtu.be/o41vyNEvnwg
Results (at the wheels, with correction factor):
Run 1: 109/212 (102/199 without CF)
Run 2: 110/208
Run 3: 110/208
Run 4: 110/207
Run 5: 110/206
Here is the printout for runs 1-3
Hardware summary:
- stock ALH longblock
- 10mm IP
- .184 nozzles (stock 5spd)
- In-tank lift pump (regulator set at 3psi)
- vnt15
- 2" exhaust, stock ranger muffler
- 2.5" FMIC, 2.5" piping
- 2.5" racepipe, PD150 intake
- Stock Ranger intake, WIX filter
- 3.73 rear axle, 35psi rear tires
Big thanks to Kriesel for coming over to Beach's Long Lake Service and helping out with the dyno runs. Testing went great. I logged data the entire time so I'll process that data later and post up the results.
Optical tach bracket
Run 1: Baseline 1, (no dyno cooling fan) http://youtu.be/c18VdTqRq-4
Run 2: Baseline 2 http://youtu.be/Z94ccH31u8c http://youtu.be/C1dk0uK3-qo
Run 3: Baseline 3
Run 4: No air filter
Run 5: No air filter, no muffler http://youtu.be/o41vyNEvnwg
Results (at the wheels, with correction factor):
Run 1: 109/212 (102/199 without CF)
Run 2: 110/208
Run 3: 110/208
Run 4: 110/207
Run 5: 110/206
Here is the printout for runs 1-3
Hardware summary:
- stock ALH longblock
- 10mm IP
- .184 nozzles (stock 5spd)
- In-tank lift pump (regulator set at 3psi)
- vnt15
- 2" exhaust, stock ranger muffler
- 2.5" FMIC, 2.5" piping
- 2.5" racepipe, PD150 intake
- Stock Ranger intake, WIX filter
- 3.73 rear axle, 35psi rear tires
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archemitis
Veteran Member
RAD! I've always loved Rangers.
dogdots
Vendor
That's going to be the easiest timing belt change EVER!!! Nice project.
mcneil
Veteran Member
I like how you covered the old engine mount hole in the belt cover.
greengeeker
Vendor
Thanks guys.I like how you covered the old engine mount hole in the belt cover.
jimbote
Certified Volkswagen Nut
wasn't implying the immobilizer could be a cause ... just letting 22r test with my immob x ecm in case he has some weird mapping issue
greengeeker
Vendor
My bad...I just misunderstood your intentions.
jimbote
Certified Volkswagen Nut
its cool to see some dyno numbers ... what are your future upgrade plans?
greengeeker
Vendor
Stage 1: tune (current)
Stage 2: stage 1 + R520's + retune + pyrometer
Stage 3: stage 2 + gtb2056vk + 4bar MAP + boost gauge + retune + clutch (likely)
Stage 4: stage 3 + 11mm IP
As mentioned before I'm pretty worried that stage 4 torque levels will likely exceed the strength of my stock transmission. So I guess a potential stage 5 would include a T5 and a built up shortblock (alh pistons + rosten rods is all).
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