My BRM Timing Belt job has a hitch

First time doing my '06 on my own; briefly, I studied the procedure and watched online vids, printed out Growler's checklist - I even bought Metalnerd's custom tools specifically for the job. I started yesterday, and everything proceeded smoothly up until the belt removal - Crank lock correctly in place (dimple @ 8 o'clock, arrow at 2 o'clock), cam lock pin fully inserted (hole lined up correctly) cam sprocket bolts loosened. I pinned the tensioner and rotated it counter-clockwise - still had a heck of a time getting the old belt off (TIGHT!). New tensioner, water pump and roller pin installed - with tensioner at its loosest postion, new belt was VERY difficult to get back on.

At this point, the cam locking pin was tight in place, and I couldn't loosen it much by jiggling the sprocket back and forth; I removed it anyway along with the crank lock, and performed two manual rotations. NOW - the cam lock hole was only HALF visible, and I obviously could not re-insert the pin; when I used the sprocket tool to rock back and forth, I witnessed (via a mirror) the hole slowly disappearing with each movement.


What do I do? My instinct tells me the marks are close, and I need to lock the crank, remove the belt and locate the TDC hole through the sprocket by slightly rotating the sprocket back and forth until the hole is visible again and I can re-insert the pin, then re-install the belt and try again.


Right or wrong, please?

1. Pin the crank. Make sure the crank tool is a slip fit.
2. Loosen the 3 cam bolts.
3. Turn the cam by the big bolt until the cam hole lines up and the cam tool a slip fit.
4. Tighten the 3 bolts.
5. Make sure the crank and cam tools are still a slip fit.
6. Remove crank and cam tools.
7. Rotate engine 2 turns until the crank tool comes to a slip fit and install the crank tool.
8. Recheck tension.
9. Check that the cam tool is a slip fit.
10. If cam is still slightly off, go back to step 2.

I found the easiest way to install the belt is to completely remove the cam sprocket and slide the belt partially on all the other location and then with the belt partially on, reinstall the sprocket and then slide the belt the rest if the way on. Leaving the tensioner nut off will allow the tensioner to slide in and out making the job easier, as well.

It was about 3 years ago that I replaced the TB on my BRM, and I recall it seeming tighter a fit than on the 1Z's I'd done. I followed the DIY on myturbodiesel.com and they seemed spot on, not certain if you checked those out or not.

The man's a genius!

To Ol' Rattler:
You, sir, are a true asset to this forum and a friend of mine forever!
I read through your detailed instructions this morning, and a light came on in my head - they made perfect sense!
I immediately saw two things wrong with my approach;
1) I was exclusively using the Metalnerd Cam Sprocket adjusting tool, and not the center (big) cam bolt, and
2) I was assuming once the crank and camshaft were locked in TDC, no further adjustment would be necessary - your instructions made me realize the procedure is more of a 'lather, rinse, repeat' type of operation.
I really keyed in on your term 'slip fit' and would not be satisfied with the binding I kept encountering either up top or below after tightening the cam sprocket bolts; I didn't keep count, but I'll bet I repeated the 'lock/adjust/tighten/unlock/rotate 2x/check' process at least a half dozen times until I tightened everything down and STILL truly had a 'slip fit' both top and bottom - only then did I button everything up and hear that satisfying sound of my engine starting right up and purring!
Just finished putting away my tools and cleaning up my garage and spilled coolant. I'm going to sleep soundly tonight, thanks to you, sir!
My most sincere thanks!

Well thank you so much. I'm far from being eligable to be a Mensa member. I just pay attention to the details. My methodology is a lot like what I learned rigging (adjusting) aircraft flight control cables. I haven't done many TDI T/B's and the first time I did mine the Torsion value came back as Zero. The second time Torsion was -1. So really what a lot of people say about needing VCDS to adjust Torsion is isn't a hard and fast rule, just more so something to do to verify a job well done or to "sweeten" the Torsion value.

As you found out, the timing tools don't lock anything, what they do is index the crank and cam to their TDC locations. If you have any kind of load (binding) on a timing tool, you are DIW...........

goodmonkey said:

It was about 3 years ago that I replaced the TB on my BRM, and I recall it seeming tighter a fit than on the 1Z's I'd done. I followed the DIY on myturbodiesel.com and they seemed spot on, not certain if you checked those out or not.

Click to expand...

The BRM belts are very easy to install, no brute force required.

Ol'Rattler said:

I found the easiest way to install the belt is to completely remove the cam sprocket and slide the belt partially on all the other location and then with the belt partially on, reinstall the sprocket and then slide the belt the rest if the way on. Leaving the tensioner nut off will allow the tensioner to slide in and out making the job easier, as well.

Click to expand...

If my instructions are confusing I would better explain them if you wish...............

Ol'Rattler said:

The BRM belts are very easy to install, no brute force required.
If my instructions are confusing I would better explain them if you wish...............

Click to expand...

Good information to pass on, but I wasn't saying that there was any. I've only one experience though with the BRM, and just noted it was tighter than I recall on the 1Z. On that engine platform I had the TB off 6 or 7 times.

It's all good then. Iv'e never done a 1Z before but many people seem to have a hard time with T/B's so I was just clarifying my explanation some............