d2305
Veteran Member
I would add the proper amount of r134a, and see if works. You need a scale to get the right amount of refrigerant in.
AC warm air, but compressor and fans DO run
- Thread starter mk3
- Start date
mk3
Veteran Member
Well, I know it will leak if I do nothing because it has leaked down twice before. The only evidence I have found of a leak so far is the pressure relief valve sticker being open. I guess i'll keep looking and thanks everyone for your help so far.
It is interesting shopping for compressors because there are reman, NEW (low cost) and NEW (OEM) to choose from with pretty big price differences. Since I can afford it, I may be willing to pay $200 more just to be more confident the unit did not come from China.
It is interesting shopping for compressors because there are reman, NEW (low cost) and NEW (OEM) to choose from with pretty big price differences. Since I can afford it, I may be willing to pay $200 more just to be more confident the unit did not come from China.
DanG144
Top Post Dawg
Yes, I would pay $400 for a parts kit with a new original Sanden unit in it, rather than $260 for a kit with a Chinese compressor in it.
Though the Chinese will probably learn pretty soon that producing quality products is the way to go, in order to compete successfully.
Though the Chinese will probably learn pretty soon that producing quality products is the way to go, in order to compete successfully.
d2305
Veteran Member
http://www.r22.org/prod_list.php?sci=26 find the leak. It may not be the compressor.
DanG144
Top Post Dawg
I had no idea the price had dropped so far on these leak detectors.
mk3
Veteran Member
Condenser fit problem!
I ordered an "aftermarket" Condenser from autohausaz.com: It's not a generic and claims to be a match to the OEM part number but it sure doesn't fit very nicely.
I think I am going to have to cut some plastic from the lock carrier on the right side and it also looks like I'll have to bend the tubes at both the inlet and outlet end of the condenser.
It's a lot cheaper than the OEM one - sure hope I don't end up regretting saving the ~$150 after I get this in.
no question - just fyi.
I ordered an "aftermarket" Condenser from autohausaz.com: It's not a generic and claims to be a match to the OEM part number but it sure doesn't fit very nicely.
I think I am going to have to cut some plastic from the lock carrier on the right side and it also looks like I'll have to bend the tubes at both the inlet and outlet end of the condenser.
It's a lot cheaper than the OEM one - sure hope I don't end up regretting saving the ~$150 after I get this in.
no question - just fyi.
DanG144
Top Post Dawg
Thanks for the lesson learned. I appreciate it.
oilhammer
Certified Volkswagen Nut & Vendor
I am not sure saving $150 is worth chopping and bending on my car, but if it works I guess lucky you. 
mk3
Veteran Member
finished! for now...
my A/C is back together and working.. however I have not determined 100% what the leak was or is.
here's what I learned.
1. Be careful what parts you buy. Some are more compatible than others - especially the condenser.
2. test-fit the components before getting them in the car. I had a receiver/drier with bad hole spacing between the port and the alignment dowel and it would not go together for anything. I bought another one at NAPA and it went in fine - it would have been nice to know it didn't fit before I was under the car. Oddly both parts were made in China and had all the markings to show they probably came from the same factory - however they were different designs and one fit and one did not fit due to the hole being drilled out of position.
3. The hardest part of the job was calculating how much PAG-46 oil to add. I ended up assuming that the entire system was 50% short because only 1/2 the expected drained of the compressor and not much came out of the condenser. The calculation is part math part educated guess and part luck IMHO.
4. O-rings were difficult to find without spending a lot of money on a big kit. I got mine piece by piece from NAPA. At the store here, they have the kits behind the counter and let you go through and find what you want. Don't try to cross-reference the NAPA numbers though - they are totally meaningless. I picked the O-rings by matching the picture on the card. The Bentley calls out the size of all the O-rings in mm. ID x Thickness but I did not find any source that sold all the correct sizes in metric.
- It appears that Autozone sells O-ring kits that are specific to each car. if I did this again I would go that route. You just have to leave time to order them into the store.
5. The O-rings are lubricated with PAG oil when you install them - nothing more fancy than that.
6. My mechanic was happy to empty the system before I did the work and he filled it up when I was done.
7. During troubleshooting I made the mistake of assuming that a good duty cycle % reading from my G65 sensor meant I had a full charge - not true. this test tells you only that the G65 sensor works. The charge has to be determined by a real pressure gauge and correlated with the temperature of the system if you know it.
now I just have to watch all the new and old parts which I cleaned up really well and see if the system still leaks.
my A/C is back together and working.. however I have not determined 100% what the leak was or is.
here's what I learned.
1. Be careful what parts you buy. Some are more compatible than others - especially the condenser.
2. test-fit the components before getting them in the car. I had a receiver/drier with bad hole spacing between the port and the alignment dowel and it would not go together for anything. I bought another one at NAPA and it went in fine - it would have been nice to know it didn't fit before I was under the car. Oddly both parts were made in China and had all the markings to show they probably came from the same factory - however they were different designs and one fit and one did not fit due to the hole being drilled out of position.
3. The hardest part of the job was calculating how much PAG-46 oil to add. I ended up assuming that the entire system was 50% short because only 1/2 the expected drained of the compressor and not much came out of the condenser. The calculation is part math part educated guess and part luck IMHO.
4. O-rings were difficult to find without spending a lot of money on a big kit. I got mine piece by piece from NAPA. At the store here, they have the kits behind the counter and let you go through and find what you want. Don't try to cross-reference the NAPA numbers though - they are totally meaningless. I picked the O-rings by matching the picture on the card. The Bentley calls out the size of all the O-rings in mm. ID x Thickness but I did not find any source that sold all the correct sizes in metric.
- It appears that Autozone sells O-ring kits that are specific to each car. if I did this again I would go that route. You just have to leave time to order them into the store.
5. The O-rings are lubricated with PAG oil when you install them - nothing more fancy than that.
6. My mechanic was happy to empty the system before I did the work and he filled it up when I was done.
7. During troubleshooting I made the mistake of assuming that a good duty cycle % reading from my G65 sensor meant I had a full charge - not true. this test tells you only that the G65 sensor works. The charge has to be determined by a real pressure gauge and correlated with the temperature of the system if you know it.
now I just have to watch all the new and old parts which I cleaned up really well and see if the system still leaks.