Project Kill Da Auto Wabbit!, Or how I learned to love the Manual Swap

MR. Frey said:

1.auto bolts will work cut them shorter

2.I believe the the auto map needs to be used with auto injectors

3.has anybody thought about the supplemental glow plug heaters in the manual?I know not in Texas

4. will a manual ecu correct the auto cruise control problem?

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Are your comments for Mk4 or Mk5?

1) not sure... don't see why not...

2) the automatic tune works fine with the manual injectors

3) The best part of having the automatic out... is... you can put in an auxillary heater that connects to where the trans cooler was.

4) you don't need a manual ECU, you already have one... it's in the coding. just change the ECU based on the first post.

alphaseinor said:

2) the automatic tune works fine with the manual injectors

...

4) you don't need a manual ECU, you already have one... it's in the coding. just change the ECU based on the first post.

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I think you meant:
1) the manual tune works fine with the automatic injectors

4) It's also in my sig, in the electrical instructions.

actually you and I are both right... automatic works fine with manual injectors, and automatic injectors work fine with manual coding.

Who's the admin on this site? I need to get 6speed banned for ripping off buyers.

All the sudden hes is in complete denial over the $950 he owes me for the tranny. He denied ever talking to me over the phone. He denied everthing to the Better Business Bureau. A complete liar!




Here is the letter I sent him:

Percy oaks
Buffalo 66 Scooter shop
716.316.3275
percy@buffalo66.net, ss180ss@yahoo.com, admin@buffalo66.net
http://www.buffalo66.net/services.html
http://www.myspace.com/buffalo_66_scootershop
10 East Oakwood pl
Buffalo, NY 14214



Dear Percy oaks:

Is there some reason you have not sent my refund payment?

Per our agreement (see next page), you agreed to send me a transmission and other parts for $950 shipped. I sent payment in 2 checks which you cashed (see next page).

Since then, you agreed to send a full refund.

Failure to send a full check or PayPal refund by March 29 will result in further action, including notification of local authorities and involvement of a collection agency.

PLEASE PAYPAL $950 REFUND TO: XXXXXXXXXXX


Sincerely,
XXXXXXXXXXXX


http://pics.tdiclub.com/data/500/medium/6speed_owes_me_950_2_checks_total_950_censored.png

could you try posting that in it's own thread?

Hey welcome aboard, so that was you that emailed me about him. He owns me a passenger front door or $250.

GdB said:

Who's the admin on this site? I need to get 6speed banned for ripping off buyers.

All the sudden hes is in complete denial over the $950 he owes me for the tranny. He denied ever talking to me over the phone. He denied everthing to the Better Business Bureau. A complete liar!




Here is the letter I sent him:

Percy oaks
Buffalo 66 Scooter shop
716.316.3275
percy@buffalo66.net, ss180ss@yahoo.com, admin@buffalo66.net
http://www.buffalo66.net/services.html
http://www.myspace.com/buffalo_66_scootershop
10 East Oakwood pl
Buffalo, NY 14214



Dear Percy oaks:

Is there some reason you have not sent my refund payment?

Per our agreement (see next page), you agreed to send me a transmission and other parts for $950 shipped. I sent payment in 2 checks which you cashed (see next page).

Since then, you agreed to send a full refund.

Failure to send a full check or PayPal refund by March 29 will result in further action, including notification of local authorities and involvement of a collection agency.

PLEASE PAYPAL $950 REFUND TO: XXXXXXXXXXX


Sincerely,
XXXXXXXXXXXX


http://pics.tdiclub.com/data/500/medium/6speed_owes_me_950_2_checks_total_950_censored.png

Click to expand...

new thread for thief percy

alphaseinor said:

could you try posting that in it's own thread?

Click to expand...

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?p=2215405#post2215405

Extra 01M Valve body anyone, any condition ?

Anyone have an extra 01M Valve body, any condition?

I want to do the IPT valve body upgrade on my wife's TDI. She doesn't get along with sticks so the swap is not an option. I want to avoid any more than a couple of hours downtime for her car.

posted here also:
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?p=2224118#post2224118

odysey continues.**CV WARNING**

figured out the smoking problem turbo vane actuator stuck.
ran into bigger problems cv joint Came unbolted from transmission while driving. no biggie right, until it flopped around and smacked hole in gearbox are those stretch bolts ? I torqued them to spec. positively absolutely did. gues i missed the locktight. any way does any one know is that case aluminum or magnesium? is th case the same as a gas job? the hole is four fingers big. im going to buy a motorcycle!

Order the axle bolts from Impex.com the part number is in my instructions.

I suspect the tranny is aluminum, but you can't tell by the color.

Why? "Aluminum cost 1/2 the magnesium..."

How to tell the difference:
1. " A drop of battery acid on magnesium will turn black, bubble / fume. On aluminum it will stay clear. Works best on a clean surface (sand or scrape)."
2. "file and burn the filings method..a bic lighter will do the trick...if it looks like the brite sparks of a sparkler firework its magnesium"
http://www.aws.org/cgi-bin/mwf/topic_show.pl?tid=9509

MR. Frey said:

figured out the smoking problem turbo vane actuator stuck.
ran into bigger problems cv joint Came unbolted from transmission while driving. no biggie right, until it flopped around and smacked hole in gearbox are those stretch bolts ? I torqued them to spec. positively absolutely did. gues i missed the locktight. any way does any one know is that case aluminum or magnesium? is th case the same as a gas job? the hole is four fingers big. im going to buy a motorcycle!

Click to expand...

First off let me tell you that this thread has given me the confidence that a swap is not only possible but that it is actually not that complicated.

So I have begun gathering parts and studying the wire diagrams in the bentley. I have one question. What did you guys do for the vehicle speed sensor. In the automatic transmission diagram it shows that there are 2 vehicle speed sensors that go to the TCU. In the standard equipment diagram there is one vss that goes to the instrument panel.

So my question is are there 3 total speed sensors? and can I just use the one that goes to the instrument panel?

Search the thread for VSS. I think I posted about this. I reused new and old VSS parts, interchangable by design.

yeah ive read through the whole thread and saw that. are you still running the tcu with automatic ecu coding? im just wondering if im reading these wiring diagrams right with it showing the vss going to the tcu with an automatic.

ssanchezz said:

yeah ive read through the whole thread and saw that. are you still running the tcu with automatic ecu coding? im just wondering if im reading these wiring diagrams right with it showing the vss going to the tcu with an automatic.

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I'm running manual coding. Don't bother with the Bently diagram, we figured it all out. Just follow the re-wiring instructions closely and everthing will work. I had no problem after following the re-wiring instructions.

Re: VSS... Now I think I recall: As long as the VSS on the new tranny is cut at the wire (connector still attached), you can recycle your old auto VSS connector still wired by combining it with a piece from the manual connector. No wire cutting required there, I vaguely recall. So here are the earlier VSS posts:

alphaseinor: "The VSS is part of the harness connection that leads to the small ECU connector"

GdB: "A funny thing I noticed is the VSS plug from the manual tranny has a different plug, but that part can be unscrewed. Then the auto VSS plug that hooks up to the auto harness can be screwed into it. So I'm using the stock VSS sensor, but maybe its being driven at a different speed."

The bolts on the CVs are stretch bolts

"Turbinewhine" did my swap last week and I am extremely pleased. Special thanks to "Jimbote" for providing last minute wiring advice. I would recommend either of them to anyone wanting to do this procedure in NC or surrounding area.

I have only had one issue develop since the swap. The transmission sticks in reverse. You have to use considerable force to push it to the right to get it out of reverse. "turbinewhine" thinks it may be the reverse solenoid/ switch on the transmission is bad. Before I order and replace the part, I wanted to check if anyone else has experienced this after the swap. I did replace the stock shift weight with a Audi TT short shifter. The other gears shift good, but I have noticed 1st and 3rd are shorter than the bottom gears.

No sticky R here.

TN2002tdi said:

"Turbinewhine" did my swap last week and I am extremely pleased. Special thanks to "Jimbote" for providing last minute wiring advice. I would recommend either of them to anyone wanting to do this procedure in NC or surrounding area.

I have only had one issue develop since the swap. The transmission sticks in reverse. You have to use considerable force to push it to the right to get it out of reverse. "turbinewhine" thinks it may be the reverse solenoid/ switch on the transmission is bad. Before I order and replace the part, I wanted to check if anyone else has experienced this after the swap. I did replace the stock shift weight with a Audi TT short shifter. The other gears shift good, but I have noticed 1st and 3rd are shorter than the bottom gears.

Click to expand...

I would recommend double checking make sure your shifter adjusted correctly. Since your 1st & 3rd gear are shorter to shift then other gears, so it looks like you need to redjust your shifter by following bentley manual or stiky thread on how to.

Thanks Losha! I looked at the Bentley and it looks like a simple procedure. I'll give it a try.

alphaseinor said:

The bolts on the CVs are stretch bolts

Click to expand...

I shoulda known. thanks! i see they have a factory locktight stuff on them too.
on a happy note it was coverd by my insurance because it was in a construction zone somthing must have bounced up and hit it broke all them bolts loose.

I adjusted the linkage with good results.

I first tried the Bentley procedure but it made the problem worse. I then just locked the adjusters back on the linkage cables, pulled the shifter back to where 2nd gear should be and then released the adjusters forward. Works perfect!

Hello everyone,
Just an update. I have filled the tank 3 times. Got 46.3, 47.3, 46.4. I just did a long trip on the freeway to southern Cal., so I think I'll fill her up again today. Dash shows 625 with a 1/4 tank left. Yahoo!!! Thanks again for all the info. I would never have attempted this by myself. Dave

Hello again,
Forgot to ask a question. When it is cold in the mornings, I notice when the engine returns to idle it is rough idle which smooths out after a few seconds. I did have to reset the software IQ (not sure if I'm saying this right) when I first got the car running. Did this via a postin this thread and I can't remember where I check it before. So I am wondering where I check the IQ, and if the hammer mod will fix this maybe. I've read it should be 3.5-5.0 and I don't really know where to start. Any help would really be appreciated. Dave

You can also increase the idle speed a little bit via vag-com, but it may not help. From what I have read the hammer mod is the most effective for when large adjustments are needed.

starters

First... thanks and kudos to all you guys who put in the blood, sweat, and (probably) tears to figure all this out!!!

Now, are you guys absolutely sure that an automatic starter will not work on the manual? I ask because I'm 99.9 percent sure it will. I still have the 01M (but maybe not for long) and I just changed the starter a few weeks ago. The new starter was slightly longer (maybe 12mm) than the old. When I returned the core, the guy behind the counter said the one I was returning (that's been in my car for years) was for a manual. The mounts were the same; the teeth looked the same; the only physical difference seemed to be the overall length - and I assume a greater number of windings for additional power to turn the torque convertor during starting.

That said... I don't want to buy a new manual starter when I have a brand new auto starter if either will work reliably on the manual transmission. So, if anybody has any hard evidence that the auto starter won't work, please share.

By the way... I've been following this thread for years, but I just read all 50 pages today. Wow!!!

I have a spare of both kinds and dial caliper... I'm curious also. Standby.

Hmm, very interesting. I too think that auto starter will work with manual fine. Well if I get to do another manual swap next month then I will find out if it works or not.

IIRC one of the bolt connections was in a different location... I could be wrong... but yes there are differences between the auto and manual.