Stupid door Switch!! $3 Fix!!!

I have a problem with my door locking mechanism but i'm not sure if this is it or not...

The rod that is up for unlocked and down (into the door) for locked, does not work. My driver's side door will not lock after getting out and pressing the (lock) button my key. It will however lock with the physical key inserted into the door, and it will also unlock using the 'unlock' button on my key.
I do not have any lights that stay on or other beeps or anything like that.

Also, while I'm in the car, and i want to lock all of my doors, i cannot lock it electronically by pressing the 'lock' button on the door, i have to physically lock it. Any suggestions? Thanks!!!

I think no matter how how you look at this, since the door lock module performs all of these functions then you know this is the part that must be replaced.


I cannot remember 100%, but I think that by putting the key in the lock and turning it you are mechanically locking the door. Maybe someone else can answer this.... or maybe you can tell by the feel of the key.

You may have a lock module that never turns on the motor to lock the door because the microswitch has failed in the state of 'door locked'.

I just finished doing this fix on my car for the third time. The first two times, I used Radio Shack switches. Those switches weren't sealed, so they'd get wet, corrode, and fail in 4-6 months. This time, I used an SAIA-Burgess V4NS-UL.

http://www.alliedelec.com/Search/Pr...&DESC=V4NS-UL&R=804-0028&sid=475B300077A2617F

(Allied Electronics stock number 804-0028, if that link stops working)

This switch is almost identical to the factory one. The factory mounting holes are non-standard, so I fixed the switch in place with JB weld. It seems pretty solid, so I'll see how long this one works.

Robert

Door Switch Bad? Try cleaning first...

If your chime isn't working, and the puddle light on the lower part of the driver's door isn't working, try spraying contact cleaner under the latch and all around that area. Work the latch open and shut a few times. If it doesn't work, try the switch fix described in this thread.

I believe it was Wingnut who tried this, so I did also. Find his post here to see a picture of where to spray.

I have a 1998 NB 1.9 TDI, power windows. I noticed that it had been a LONG time since my car gave me a tone when the door was open. It would lock itself for no reason. The puddle light on the driver's door didn't work either.

The voltage coming from the wires on the driver door was about 1V, and it needed to be 12, so I though "bad ground/bad switch". I checked out the light assembly by trying it on the passenger door, which was throwing 12 volts. It worked. I tried the door test mentioned elsewhere in this thread; the switch was apparently NOT working on the driver door lock.

Weirdly enough, the assembly on the driver's door has a low voltage, inch long bulb held in on both ends and a resistor. The passenger side has a straight-up 12V push or screw in bulb (didn't check). Dealer must have replaced one or the other when I took it in for little things at the end of the "certified used" warranty period.

Inspired by Wingnut's story, I bought some contact cleaner and sprayed half a can in there with the door latch in both the open and shut position. It still didn't work, but after driving around today for a few stops to try to find the big M bit for the latch assembly, lo and behold, the "door is open, lights are one, key is in, what's up" tone started working. Music to my ears. Also, the puddle light works now.

I only need to clean my car below the door where all the contact cleaner leaked out of the door, and I'm all set.

Thanks to all who've put their experiences on this thread. This forum has been a Godsend to me.

Anyone in the Dallas/ Fort Worth area experienced with this repair interested in making a some extra holiday cash? PM me please!

My front passenger door has this problem - I sprayed gobs of cleaning solvent, but still no workie:
- Microswitch and puddle light work fine. The light turns on with the door open, and I can turn it off by pushing the latch with a screwdriver.
- CCM doesn't detect that the door is open. It would lock and honk/arm the alarm with this door open.

What else should I look into?

Edit: I think the open/close microswitch is ok, but the lock/unlock switches or solder joints aren't. I need to go deeper and follow the posted vortex or taligentx links. I'm never in the mood to play with interior panels as I tend to break the clips. I have the above issue on the Golf, and both rear doors on the Passat have been having similar problems.

Over-engineered German-designed parts are PITA!!

I usually keep a bag of the clips in my toolbox. just for that reason.
You know, if your doing this yourself, its worth it to replace the switches, but if your paying someone to do it, just buy a new assembly.

rkidd7952 said:

I just finished doing this fix on my car for the third time. The first two times, I used Radio Shack switches. Those switches weren't sealed, so they'd get wet, corrode, and fail in 4-6 months. This time, I used an SAIA-Burgess V4NS-UL.

http://www.alliedelec.com/Search/ProductDetail.asp?SKU=804-0028&SEARCH=&MPN=V4NS%2DUL&DESC=V4NS%2DUL&R=804%2D0028&sid=475B300077A2617F

(Allied Electronics stock number 804-0028, if that link stops working)

This switch is almost identical to the factory one. The factory mounting holes are non-standard, so I fixed the switch in place with JB weld. It seems pretty solid, so I'll see how long this one works.

Robert

Click to expand...

I got one of these and installed it. Some #4 bolts worked after slotting out the the latch holes a bit. All good. Thanks.

Stupid Door Switch!! $3 Fix!!

My switch works for a while and then stops working. I spray it a little and it will work for another week or so. I drilled a 3/8" hole in the door panel below the latch for better access for spraying. I have started using a lube spray instead of electronics cleaner as it seems obvious the switch just dries and sticks. I bought both the Radio Shack and the Burgess switches, but have not gotten around to pulling the door apart to install one of them.

I've got a open door light staying on. How do you figure out which one it is, passengers doors (4) and the rear hatch?

You will need two tiny screws and nuts, which I had laying around, otherwise you can get them at the hardware store. Attatch the new switch and solder the red and blur wires to the switch. One to the Common and one to the NO (normally open). Plug the electrical plug back in and test the operation of the switch.

Get a question. I'm going to solder the wires, but which color is Common and is Normally Open (NO).

I just bought an 02 Golf TDI and have symptoms leading me to believe it may be that switch as well. No dome, puddle or ding-ding with keys in the ignition when driver door open. I already have procured a replacement switch.

My question is; do I need any special tools to remove the door panel and/or lock mechanism?

Just bought the car, so I don't own a Bentley manual yet.

Thanks !

ve9aa said:

My question is; do I need any special tools to remove the door panel and/or lock mechanism?

Click to expand...

Way up in the thread are VERY detailed instructions. Print them ALL out. It is very involved. You want to use those, with pictures. The only special tool is a triple star (12 point metric) bit. You'll also need a dremel to modify the mechanism if putting in one of those switches.

Fix made & pics taken

I had a chance to do this fix over the long weekend. I took a few photos and made a few explinations over at VW Vortex.

Hat tip to vwsandman for the original post!

DaveE

dpe415 said:

I had a chance to do this fix over the long weekend. I took a few photos and made a few explinations over at VW Vortex.

Click to expand...

I see you used the Realistic switch. If you read back, you will see people have found that to not be reliable since it is not sealed.

The Allied Electronics stock number 804-0028 switch is fully sealed and I think will work better.

I see you used the Realistic switch. If you read back, you will see people have found that to not be reliable since it is not sealed.

Click to expand...

Yes, I had read that as well. Unfortunately the only time I had to take a look at this was over the weekend and I wasn't able to order the part ahead of time. We'll see how it works out. Now that I've had the door apart once, it would only take me an hour or so to do it again with a sealed switch, if necessary.

How about these pictures?

vwsandman said:

Thanks, Sorry no pics, I had every intention of posting some, but when I looked at all my pics they were too blurry to use. I sure wasn't going to tear into the door again to take more. Sorry.

Click to expand...

The pictures here should fit the purpose. It's only fair since that article references this thread.

I thank you folks for your play by play on this obvious poor vw design... not to mention lack of redesign. It appears to be a moneymaker to them. VW's service tech was explaining why the bells were eratic & lookes sympathetic as he quoted me close to $800 to do both doors! I asked... can't you just replace the switch? Unfortunately we cannot...sigh. Meanwhile the mechanic shook his head just a tad....but enough to alert me to alternatives [ which led to this workaround]. After I paid for the timing belt repairs, I asked if I could go into the shop 'cause I forgot to thank the mechanic for all his hard work.... He reminded me that he couldn't say much... but ........
I read the posts & ordered the 2 burgess switches & a triple square wrench from KD. The job took me longer than most..... but then I only have 1 arm & 1 leg. It's obvious right off the bat, how 1 arm would impact this job.....But you may be wondering.... how would having 1 leg be a problem??? Just try to kick the door with 1 leg! Thanks to all of you!
Ps the plastic piece that slides into the module from the door panel, was completely missing on my door.

those cable ties will eventually get brittle. It'll take some time though.

nice write up I have to do one of my doors.

Same Problem?

I have a 2006 Golf 4DR. Here are my symptoms:Seems like all of the switches are working to turn on/off interior lights, but the car still thinks something (probably the hatch) is open. Is there more than one contact in the hatch latch? I took the trim off but didn't remove the latch mechanism yet. I see only two wires going to it, so I'm guessing just one switch.

Any thoughts?

Thanks,
JC

JC,

First, I'm surprised that an '06 would already have a door lock issue. You may have more than one issue. I would guess that the driver door lock has a problem (as evidenced by the light on the door staying on all the time). In addition, it sounds like a problem with the rear hatch mechanism as well. The hatch has some microswitches that can fail. (I suppose you are out of the warranty period due to miles. I would make a strong case with VW that this should be covered under the 4 year warranty because it has nothing to do with miles. If it were a safety issue, you could probably win, but don't expect too much consideration on a convenience item.)

Your failure mode is different than the one described in this thread. It sounds more like a failure inside the electronic portion of the door lock in the driver's door. This was quite common on '01 models. There were cold solder joints that could be easily fixed if you were bold enough to dig into the assembly. I repaired a few that way, but when the external microswitches started failing, I resorted to paying the price and buying a new lock mechanism at the VW dealer. Double ouch!!! At least it avoided comebacks from my customers plus my labor to do it right a second time.

I will digress from your question and related some things that I have learned about the door locks. I've been waiting for someone to find a direct replacement switch. My attempt with the radio shack switch failed mainly because I used glue instead of bolts and did not get it positioned correctly. I just ordered three of the Burgess switches and will give it a try. They cost $9.63 ea plus shipping and $5 handling (if order under $25). This time, I'll use bolts.

Oh, one point of caution for anyone considering replacing the external switch: examine the rubber cam that contacts the switch. I have found some to be rough. It would tear up any new switch. If the cam is still smooth, go for it! Also, don't expect lube and contact cleaner to provide a lasting repair. The switch fails due to a rubber cover wearing away and a plastic piece under the cover breaking off.

Windy Gregory
Vee Dub Motors
Kevil, KY

After replacing and repairing many many door switches, I now only reccomend my customers replace the entire unit with new parts precisely because of what N2OKX mentions. The rotating cam assembly can sometimes be damaged. Plus, its just not cost effective unless you are doing the repair yourself.

Help!!! I need to do the Rear driver side door but I can't get the window unlatched. It is completely different from the front window regulator. Anybody know how?

oldpoopie said:

After replacing and repairing many many door switches, I now only reccomend my customers replace the entire unit with new parts precisely because of what N2OKX mentions. The rotating cam assembly can sometimes be damaged. Plus, its just not cost effective unless you are doing the repair yourself.

Click to expand...

I bit the bullet recently and did what Oldpoopie recommended - had the drivers door latch replaced with a new one from Impex. Its worth nothing that the plastic housing the electronics was a different color, maybe they beefed this thing up a bit. As a bonus my driver's door seals a lot better than it used to, which tells me that the cam assembly has probably been bad in this door for a while now.

Now that I have assisted in this operation (thanks MiksTDI) I feel pretty confident in taking it on myself if need be. This means that I will never have to do it again, of course.

N2OKX said:

JC,

I will digress from your question and related some things that I have learned about the door locks. I've been waiting for someone to find a direct replacement switch. My attempt with the radio shack switch failed mainly because I used glue instead of bolts and did not get it positioned correctly. I just ordered three of the Burgess switches and will give it a try. They cost $9.63 ea plus shipping and $5 handling (if order under $25). This time, I'll use bolts.


Windy Gregory
Vee Dub Motors
Kevil, KY

Click to expand...

You mentioned ordering the Burgess switches. Could you maybe let me know the part number and where you ordered them from? I have a radio shack switch and can't seem to get it to mount properly. I would much rather have the original switch, and don't mind waiting a few days for it to get here. Thanks in advance for your help.

jrip said:

You mentioned ordering the Burgess switches. Could you maybe let me know the part number and where you ordered them from? I have a radio shack switch and can't seem to get it to mount properly. I would much rather have the original switch, and don't mind waiting a few days for it to get here. Thanks in advance for your help.

Click to expand...

Earlier in this thread (a page or two back), someone suggested an Allied Electronics part number. They are not a direct replacement, but the switches do look very similar. In fact, part of the switch is identical. The main difference is how the switch is mounted. The new switch must have bolts of glue to secure to the housing. Mine arrived last week, but I have not had a chance to try them yet. I'll make another post to this thread when I know the results.

N2OKX said:

Earlier in this thread (a page or two back), someone suggested an Allied Electronics part number. They are not a direct replacement, but the switches do look very similar. In fact, part of the switch is identical. The main difference is how the switch is mounted. The new switch must have bolts of glue to secure to the housing. Mine arrived last week, but I have not had a chance to try them yet. I'll make another post to this thread when I know the results.

Click to expand...

Thanks. I found it, and as luck would have it, there's an Allied Electronics in town. I did have to catalogue order the switch, but I was able to pick it up at the will call desk the same day. What a deal. I have it installed and it's working great.

Sometimes it's chicken and sometimes it's feathers. Today it's chicken.

I can't belive all the views that this thread has. Could it be that this is a very common problem? I already know the answer - almost every VW that I look at that is five or more years old has a bad switch.

I said that I would report the results of my feeble attempt at installing the Burgess part from Allied Electronics. "JRIP" beat me to the job and posted some excellent photos. Without these photos, I probably would not have had the incentive to complete the job. I must not be very handy at installing these switches and dealing with the tiny bolts that are needed. It took me three tries to get it right and way too much time. I completed the job by adding some glue to ensure that the part did not slip. I did apply the glue until I tested the allignment. I am happy to report the door switch is now working normally.

So, what did I conclude? For me, it was not worth the time involved. Even if everything went smooth, it would add a couple of hours to the job. When I am working on one of my own cars (that I am fixing up for sale), I have more time than money, so I might do it again. If I am repairing a customer's car, there is no way that I can charge my time vs just installing the new part. In addition, the repair is a band-aid at best. I don't think the repair will last long.

Now, can someone come up with an alternate switch? I envision a magnetic switch mounted on the door. When the door closes, the switch would open and it would work just like the microswitch. There must be an electrical engineer in the club that can tell us if this would work. In my "spare" time, I'll continue to research this. There has to be a better way!

Windy Gregory
Vee Dub Motors
Kevil, KY

The problem is that they used a button switch operating against a cam and it eventually breaks off. The proper switch would be a lever or roller switch. Magnetic or optical would work too.