I need some advice on turbo on my 2002. I had a 2003 and it ran away, I originally bought this 2002 for parts and such but ended up putting a timing belt in it since the 2003 ran away. Well the turbo was bad in the 2002 so I stole the turbo out of the 2003, just a little worried about that turbo cause the seals are prolly out of it but the 2002 runs good since I put turbo on it. Just oil dripping from pipe at intercooler. Well with all that being said, I found a turbo on eBay for $300 with warranty and was wondering if anyone has ever bought one and how they were. Thanks.
Turbo Advice
- Thread starter Blchap
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eddieleephd
Top Post Dawg
If you want to go cheap look up Dutch Auto in the classified here.
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BobnOH
not-a-mechanic
Aren't runaways often caused by turbo seal failure? Could be wrong, but it seems like you may have the proverbial Ticking Time Bomb.
I would not buy a $300 turbo from ebay.
I would not buy a $300 turbo from ebay.
WildChild80
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I would run a junkyard turbo before I ran a 300 eBay turbo.
Typically, the idea is that oil accumulated in the intercooler and eventually built up enough to cause a loss of rpm control. Driving the car hard fairly often us supposed to help minimize the possibility of this happening.
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Typically, the idea is that oil accumulated in the intercooler and eventually built up enough to cause a loss of rpm control. Driving the car hard fairly often us supposed to help minimize the possibility of this happening.
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That’s why I was worried about this turbo but changed it anyways and now know 100% it was the turbo that was messed up. I was skeptical on buying the eBay turbo but it says it’s been tested/rebuilt I think they take the stock turbos and rebuild them cause their is a core charge so I would have to send old turbo back
WildChild80
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jettawreck
Top Post Dawg
The manufacturer of the turbo doesn't make OEM replacement parts for the turbos, so "rebuilt" ones are either just cleaned up cores (which, if you get lucky might not be so bad because lot of turbos get changed out that don't need to) or "repaired" units with parts that are probably sourced from questionable places. Perhaps that's why some have had relatively good results with a cheap "rebuilt" and others suffer catastrophic failures.
I wouldn't take the chance given the work involved and that a brand new OEM is less than $800 and good used or trusted sources much less.
AndyBees
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Run-away is due to accumulated oil in the Intercooler being blown into the engine...... the snowball begins to roll with the engine revving extremely high, Turbo spinning to max, etc., and sometimes bent rods, broken rods, destroyed Turbo, etc.
It only takes briskly going thru the gears taking the RPMs up to 34-3600 a couple of times per tank of fuel to keep the Intercooler blown-out. Maximum (peak) boost is generally achieved at 32-3300 RPMs, thus, any higher RPM is not really necessary.
I'd stay away from any "rebuilt" Turbo offered on eBay. I've disassembled several VNT15s and cleaned them for re-sale. My stock is all but gone. The "seals" are nothing but metal expansion rings (no rubber). If one is shot, the next thing to go will be the Turbine shaft.
It only takes briskly going thru the gears taking the RPMs up to 34-3600 a couple of times per tank of fuel to keep the Intercooler blown-out. Maximum (peak) boost is generally achieved at 32-3300 RPMs, thus, any higher RPM is not really necessary.
I'd stay away from any "rebuilt" Turbo offered on eBay. I've disassembled several VNT15s and cleaned them for re-sale. My stock is all but gone. The "seals" are nothing but metal expansion rings (no rubber). If one is shot, the next thing to go will be the Turbine shaft.
I do run the car fairly hard for this reason. I usually don’t shift till 2600-2800 rpms
WildChild80
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When I'm doing my exercise, I don't shift till 4k or sometimes when it starts cutting power
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Rrusse11
Veteran Member
You need to take it up another grand. Like WildChild I'm shifting close
to 4k rpm. Everybody thinks they're "helping" their motor by lugging it.
Low down torque feels impressive, but stresses the internals of motor and gearbox.
snakeye
Veteran Member
I'm not sure about this. Does max boost mean max air flow in the pipes as well?
9755
Veteran Member
Put a catch can on it and drain the intercooler for starters. Might as well help keep oil out of the system
WildChild80
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I just added a 2 liter ccv oil cap thing and vent it to the atmosphere, it cured my oil leaks too, eventually I want to route it to the exhaust and seal up the intake tube
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IndigoBlueWagon
TDIClub Enthusiast, Principal IDParts, Vendor , w/
If the engine and turbo are in good condition and the car is driven normally (not babied all the time) there's no need for either draining the intercooler or a catch can. The small amount of oil from the CCV will stay in suspension and be burned up by the engine.
The only time the hoses come off the intercooler on my wagon is when they're in the way of other service tasks. And maybe a few drips of oil come out. Same with my son's car, and he has nearly 400K on original block, head, and turbo.
The only time the hoses come off the intercooler on my wagon is when they're in the way of other service tasks. And maybe a few drips of oil come out. Same with my son's car, and he has nearly 400K on original block, head, and turbo.
Rrusse11
Veteran Member
"Does max boost mean max air flow in the pipes as well?" Snakeye
Think about it for a moment,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, the short answer is yes.
Think about it for a moment,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, the short answer is yes.
snakeye
Veteran Member
It's not that clear to me. The rpm is basically the rate of combustion, and the boost is the density of the air. Just because the air is denser doesn't mean it flows faster, does it? That would depend on the rpm, wouldn't it?
WildChild80
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This is a good point, flow and pressure are merely kissing cousins but don't always go hand in hand, if you have a stopped up intake, no realistic amount of pressure will overcome the blockage.
A good flowing intake and head will make more power with the same of even less pressure, at least that's the way I understand it
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Rrusse11
Veteran Member
Given just the initial question, leave out the variables, max air pressure is more air, it HAS to be more flow.
Now I've done a lot to clean up the restrictions in my system, PD150 intake, upgraded SMIC, EGR delete.
I have the same 26psi boost pressure, with a less restrictive system I am getting more air to the engine.
But I've got a big turbo that maxes out
the system at 26psi. Bigger FMICs need bigger turbos to charge a larger
volume of air to reach their optimal air pressure. Any turbo works off the
feedback from the system when it hits max pressure.
With no alteration to the air flow system, 26psi delivers more air than a 20psi charge.
Now to maximize the efficiency of any pressured system, go for bigger pipes, but you will run out of turbo "steam"
at some point and it will be unable to deliver any more air, bigger exducer wheel required.
To move air through a fixed size hole, more pressure means more air.
Same pressure, bigger hole, more air. Lots of variables in our turbo systems to play with. One restriction
affects overall flow rate given a constant pressure.
Now I've done a lot to clean up the restrictions in my system, PD150 intake, upgraded SMIC, EGR delete.
I have the same 26psi boost pressure, with a less restrictive system I am getting more air to the engine.
But I've got a big turbo that maxes out
the system at 26psi. Bigger FMICs need bigger turbos to charge a larger
volume of air to reach their optimal air pressure. Any turbo works off the
feedback from the system when it hits max pressure.
With no alteration to the air flow system, 26psi delivers more air than a 20psi charge.
Now to maximize the efficiency of any pressured system, go for bigger pipes, but you will run out of turbo "steam"
at some point and it will be unable to deliver any more air, bigger exducer wheel required.
To move air through a fixed size hole, more pressure means more air.
Same pressure, bigger hole, more air. Lots of variables in our turbo systems to play with. One restriction
affects overall flow rate given a constant pressure.
AndyBees
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- Silver 2003 Jetta TDI, Silver 2000 Jetta TDI (sold), '84 Vanagon with '02 ALH engine
Over 380k miles and still going just fine (son owns it now, 2000 Jetta). Must be a good way to keep the Inter Cooler blown-out. I only took the RPMs over 4k one time. As for the ALH in my Vanagon, I've never had the RPMs over 3500.
Even if Maximum Boost doesn't equal maximum air flow, I think it is more than sufficient to keep the IC blown out. As I said, I've always done 32-3500 RPMs two or three times (1st thru -4th) per tank of fuel.