Bypass Ignition Switch

Hello. TIA! I already have a push button starter because of a problem with my ignition switch from a few years ago, but now the ignition switch power is failing and I want to just bypass it completely and use a switch to turn power on.
Is there a thread/diagram that shows how to do this instead of me reading through a bunch of wiring diagrams. Yes, I should probably just replace the ignition switch, but I have a fractured wrist ATM and I can't do too much for a few weeks and the car has been shutting off while driving. Plus I like the idea of having a push button to allow power to flow. I will still have to use the key for the wheel lock, but that is fine.

EDIT: Fixed the issue with a 25A switch from Napa and a few minutes of wiring. The way the stock switch works is that when turned to "ON" power is sent to 3 additional wires on the plug to power the radio, dash and a relay. When turned all the way to start it engages the starter motor. I have already added an external push button starter so I just needed power. I am linking a photo diagram of how I accomplished this. (If photo links die PM me for pics since I cannot attach them to this post.) I know this is not what most people will do, but for the few of us who don't follow the status quo hopefully this helps.
https://imgur.com/mpT7JGF Finished Pic
https://imgur.com/eMqiQt1 Diagram

just replace the ignition. its not a hard job (takes about 20 minutes) to do and costs like $20 in parts.

Mongler98 said:

just replace the ignition. its not a hard job (takes about 20 minutes) to do and costs like $20 in parts.

Click to expand...

Thanks for that super helpful response.

here is a good start
https://www.google.com/search?q=mk3+vw+ignition+switch+diy&rlz=1C1CHWL_enUS856US856&oq=mk3+VW+ignition+switch&aqs=chrome.2.69i57j0l5.13609j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
i literally searched for "mk3 vw ignition switch diy"
PLENTY of results and videos.

HumJetta said:

Thanks for that super helpful response.

Click to expand...

There's probably a fault in the column wiring harness, that's how the ignition switch get's main power. It's a very short harness and not difficult to deal with if you want to repair it or replace it. The Mk3 was a common car so there should be a lot of reasonably good harnesses out there to fix it. I understand though that if you're injured it's difficult to work on that stuff, I've been there too.

The only way to wire around this whole thing is to run a reasonably sized wire directly from the battery to the cabin to your new switch (which should be grounded) and that would provide power to your push button and or key switch. You still need to make the appropriate connections at the column.

If the actual original ignition switch, which you are still using in a sense, is that bad then I'm not sure this would help you for very long as there is a lot of other wiring that is controlled by that switch and you would lose other things that are controlled there, like lights etc.

Needless to say I'm not endorsing any of this, it's not best practice and it only postpones something further that should have been done before. You're on your own if you undertake to do this, it's not something I would do even in the short term.

Steve

its like $9 bucks
https://www.idparts.com/ignition-switch-b4a3-p-490.html

Oh the wonderful world of the internet. Once I get it working I will post up a diagram for anyone else who might want to do it.

@Steve Addy I have bypassed the starting part of the switch with a push button starter already. Running a 12g wire directly to the battery with a 30A fuse and tying into the original harness. I love having a push button starter though, so that isn't going to change. I was just hoping for a little diagram to aid me for this next part. I guess I should have remembered the type of helpful people that roam these forums... I did actually search last night and only found one thread which applied and had no real instruction other than the OP completing it with relative ease.

@Mongler98 I am perfectly fine with people not agreeing with the way I do things, but if you don't want to help then just don't help. Don't tell me what I am doing is "ghetto" or to "stop wasting your time."

HumJetta said:

Oh the wonderful world of the internet. Once I get it working I will post up a diagram for anyone else who might want to do it.

@Steve Addy I have bypassed the starting part of the switch with a push button starter already. Running a 12g wire directly to the battery with a 30A fuse and tying into the original harness. I love having a push button starter though, so that isn't going to change. I was just hoping for a little diagram to aid me for this next part. I guess I should have remembered the type of helpful people that roam these forums... I did actually search last night and only found one thread which applied and had no real instruction other than the OP completing it with relative ease.

@Mongler98 I am perfectly fine with people not agreeing with the way I do things, but if you don't want to help then just don't help. Don't tell me what I am doing is "ghetto" or to "stop wasting your time."

Click to expand...

I got the same response when building my propane coolant heater. It works great btw. Anyway the ignition has a few wires, but you would need a wiring diag because some ground when not powered when they are power. Normallt the biggest 3 are battery power, ignition, and start. And a ground, i hotwired a ford to get it home because the switch gave out and there was 6 wires. batt + and -. 2 acc ones, an ignition on one, and a starter wire. Now i have no idea what your switch is. i suggest probing your switch to see what connects when on vs off.

@DivineChaos Thank you!

@Mongler98 I hope you have a good day.

same to you. but i do mean the best.
one thing i would do if i was you when you decide to replace the switch is to replace the lock too. there is a small arm that comes forward off the cylinder and it snaps off easily over time and there is a hack to pull it apart, you have to drill a hole in it on the side and push in a pick to release it. worth doing but if your key turns it off after replacing the switch its not an issue. that however is a full days job for most.

HumJetta said:

@DivineChaos Thank you!

@Mongler98 I hope you have a good day.

Click to expand...

Your welcome bud. Building byself a stronger hitch for my mk6. This one will be higher and reinforced better. My previous one bent when moving the ice house in the yard. Probably 4k pounds and maybe 1k on the tung. (its a heavy one) Moved it just fine.
Anyway.... And i am not sure if your key has an immobilizer chip in it. Either way, unless you hack (or break) the wheel lock; the key is still needed. I do suggest finding a wiring diag.

Mongler98 said:

no one is going to waste their time with such a concluded and complicated solution to a 20 minute $10 problem to solve properly.

you come on here asking how to fix it and saying basically your too lazy to research this on your own, then complain when we tell you how to fix it.
good luck with the hand, i do understand not being able to fix things when your not fixed yourself but honestly i could change this part out with one hand tied behind my back. LITERALLY.

Click to expand...

Maybe he wants his car to be easier to steal. Even though he will have to remove the switch to get at the wires. i do understand if the ign cylunder is also failing and its not just the switch.
In the old ford (92 f150) i did find out the switch could be used without a key. Could go into one, pull the harness, plug it into the "replacement" switch, break the wheel lock, start and your off. all without an ignition key. Dont ask, long story.

while we are on this subject, i just had a really bad scare on my 2004 ford escape. as a few of you know i dont get much sleep from my child on life support issues, i was brain dead and pulled into sheets to get some smokes. when i came back outside, the escape was sitting in the MIDDLE OF THE F'N ROAD. luckly no one got hurt and nothing happened, i have a habitual habit of leaving it in park with the parking break engauged. its IMPOSSIBLE to take the keys out unless its in park.
NOT ANYMORE
turns out it was still in drive with no hand break. i just tested it yesterday and the lock for the key is starting to wear down so now you can pull the key out in any shifting position. NOT GOOD.

TLDR: this is a item i will be fixing this next weekend now that my trans is fixed. the 2/4 band broke.

anyways, the point is that ignition switch and the lock are very important things. push to start was a fad that was short lived, wiring is a PITFA to mess with.
i would seriously come over and help you fix it but again, child on life support here.