Digital 4 Wheel Alignment - Help Help Me Interpreted & Correct

Digital 4 Wheel Alignment - Help Me Interpreted & Correct

Just put New Bilstein TC's all four corners and new Michelin Pilot Sport A/S +3's.
Wheel Centered Drives like it's on rails straight. I wanted to check anyway. Local
shop changed $30 to check. For fun I'll try some DIY methods for checking toe.
I'm out Right Rear. How to fix that? I am confused on sign convention interpretation.
It seems Front toe-in is Positive (standard convention). However rear toe-in is negative?

I am putting a new 24mm rear sway bar on. I don't think that will change the toe.

Your camber can be balanced by moving the subframe. Caster is equal between left and right, that's why it drives straight and does not pull to either side.
On the rear, both toe and camber are fully adjustable.

Personally if this would be my car, I would take it to get aligned AFTER I have completed all the suspension work.

Henrick said:

Your camber can be balanced by moving the subframe. Caster is equal between left and right, that's why it drives straight and does not pull to either side.
On the rear, both toe and camber are fully adjustable.

Personally if this would be my car, I would take it to get aligned AFTER I have completed all the suspension work.

Click to expand...

That is why I did not get it aligned. All suspension work is done, except
for the Rear Sway Bar. I will put that on this weekend. I do want to get
the right rear adjusted, but frankly I am good with the camber and caster
as-is.

How do you adjust the rear toe? Is there some eccentric.

Is this the original/factory alignment we are seeing? What is the car's mileage?

for a more racing setup you should do more toe out front and rear. Get a bit more -Camber in the front. Caster is fine you can not do much on it with a stock car. The next time it gets alignment it may show in the green???
You need to fix the rear toe and get the Thrust Angle to 0 this is a must.
You may wish to look over something I have been working on all year.
http://www.ALIGNITPRO.com
Some will not like that I did the link but it was build for guys like your self.

See Figures Below: (THIS IS WHAT I CAME UP WITH, PLS COMMENT YAH or NAY

Well this thread is NOT going where I wanted. I needed help specifically in
getting the toe adjustment right rear done. So I did some research and found
very little to vague references. I found more on CAMBER adjustment. I also
found LOTS of contradictory comments. HOWEVER I found the following.

There appears to be only TWO Factory adjustments. One on upper transverse
and one on lower transverse. Both these will effect CAMBER which is
confusing, however the UPPER is the all camber. The LOWER transverse link
will effect toe mostly (but it will effect camber as does the upper camber
adjustment). Therefore why the confusion (on mine and others). They are
not totally independent adjustments. The steering knuckle is supported by a
whopping 4 LINKS: Upper Transverse Link, Lower Transverse Link, Track Rod
(Lower) and Trailing link.

The latter two are not adjustable, the Track Rod and Trailing Link. Tthey may be
adjustable by loosening bolts playing with slope in hole or playing with bushings
but they are not easily adjustable.

BOTTOM LINE IF YOU ADJUST TOE OR CAMBER THEY INTERACT AND REQUIRE ITERATION.

What do you mean by more racing? For the track, sure, toe out is appropriate, but for the road you need stability which means toe-in.

Toe-in makes the car directionally stable, and also has the effect of making the car not follow the road crown and other road imperfections. It's something you need on the road.

Bump bump