Misfire running on 3 cylinders

Way to go bud, glad to see you get this thing put back together. That was a really good idea with the guide dowels for placing the head on the block. Aside from setting the timing that was one of the more critical parts of this whole process...not to take away from putting the rod and piston in correctly. It is just super easy to knick the cylinder head on the the factory dowel pins....only takes one wrong move.

Take it easy for a while to make sure everything is going to hold, soon enough your confidence in the car will come back and all of this will be behind you.

Great job!

+ is advanced..

newlitemotorist said:

Way to go bud, glad to see you get this thing put back together.
Take it easy for a while to make sure everything is going to hold, soon enough your confidence in the car will come back and all of this will be behind you.
Great job!

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Thanks Newlite, I know from your post you just went through a similar situation,
(Minus the piston)
I drove it to the city today and funny thing I had to rescue my neighbor on
Way home. His alternator crapped out just off exit 2 on I-684.
The same guy who had doubts that this would go back together. Funny how
The world works.
Thanks Richard , I wasn't aware of the "Stonehenge" color been the same as "Urban Gray"
**** did you say Silverstone or Stonehenge? Aw well I will check into it.
Thanks Jason, and Thunder I will bring it forward on the weekend . It idles
Pretty decent but almost seems to have a very slight miss on low revs.
Could be my overly sensitive ear.
Quick question...
Is there a break in period for the new rings on that piston?
Also should I do an oil change in next 300 miles to clean out any
Debris that may have Gotten into block while head was off?

break in is a good question. When I break in engines, I run break in oil for around 500 miles, then go to normal engine oil. Franko6 recommends for just his cam break in, gibbs oil for first break in period, then changing to more gibbs oil for duration of break in. Personally I've had good luck seating cam/lifters/rings with royal purple break in oil for 500 miles, but these aren't diesel. Using 501.1, break in most likely takes a lot longer.
I was pretty sure about the torsion value, but I stand corrected.

High cylinder pressure will help seat the rings, so don't be too nice to it once you know it'll stay together. the slight miss you may be hearing could just be that the compression in the one cylinder is low from them not seating yet..

according to the vcds screen, the fueling seemed high on #4 from perhaps rigs not seated?

rings, sorry

Chrismak said:

Thanks Newlite, I know from your post you just went through a similar situation,
(Minus the piston)

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Yes, aside from the piston i had to do everything you did in order to change a headgasket. I too had a certain sensitivity to every little noise, clunk, you name it because I lacked confidence in the car. I made the mistake of reaching out to a well known tdi mechanic here in this community. He scared the crap out of me with all the things that were going to go wrong since I didnt bring my car to him for the repairs. Some guys make these cars out to be something worlds apart from other cars of which only they can fix but they are actually very similar. You just have to buy all the crazy tools....lol

Once you get all the loose ends tied up I am sure your car will be great for some time come. You being overly observant is just part of it...it will pass.

Chrismak said:

....
Thanks Richard , I wasn't aware of the "Stonehenge" color been the same as "Urban Gray"
**** did you say Silverstone or Stonehenge? Aw well I will check into it.
..?

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Silverstone Gray is the same as Urban Gray. Stonehenge Grey is a different color.


.

I got the timing tweaked and its running fine.
It's just a very small movement on the sprocket. The first time I moved it clockwise to advance and it went to +3.5.
I then turned it back and it went to -1.5.
Aother go and I got it to +0.5, seems to be idling nicely now.

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Quick video here. I have about 300 miles on it since getting back on the road. So far so good.
http://youtu.be/VGKsew-6T0Q

newlitemotorist said:

Yes, aside from the piston i had to do everything you did in order to change a headgasket. I too had a certain sensitivity to every little noise, clunk, you name it because I lacked confidence in the car. I made the mistake of reaching out to a well known tdi mechanic here in this community. He scared the crap out of me with all the things that were going to go wrong since I didnt bring my car to him for the repairs. Some guys make these cars out to be something worlds apart from other cars of which only they can fix but they are actually very similar. You just have to buy all the crazy tools....lol
Once you get all the loose ends tied up I am sure your car will be great for some time come. You being overly observant is just part of it...it will pass.

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I originally wasn't going to share this, but Newlite you have inspired me.
I'm sure it will generate a a great deal of consternation amongst the true mechanics and trusted gurus.
Again this was my own version of a valve job and I don't reccomend it only as a
Quick fix.
In my case I did a leak down and some of the valves were not seating properly.
This is unconventional and would not be endorsed by any shop. Do at your own risk.
I used superglue and a couple of brass plunger out of flushometer.
Glued the plungers to the valve head.
Attached a piece of fuel hose with a hose clip. Then inserted a drill bit with an hose clip to other end of tubing. Left about inch or inch and half of hosing with nothing in it.
This alows for a centering if the plunger is not dead center.
A couple of drops of Acetone applied with Q-tip and let soak for a minute and the
Brass plunger came right off with a tap of chisel sideways motion.
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On youtube.

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=UmqAIqmJLVI

You obviously have to turn the camshaft to open the valves and apply the paste.
Then close so they are seated. I thoroughly cleaned with water and a air hose afterward.
Again I know this is a Farmers way and I don't expect any ringing endorsements.
But I will say after doing leak down just using water they all pretty much held.
100% better.

water isn't ideal to test , as the surface tension will prevent it from seeping. Thats why kero or gasoline is normally used. Had you lapped the valves conventionally, you could have closely checked cam lifters and cam for signs of wear and had the cam either touched up and possibly replaced lifters. I suspect thats why the engine sounds a bit noisy. I would think for the time you spent doing your version of valve lapping, you could have done it correctly, and had time to spare.

No argument Here...

Jason replaced the cam and lifters around 165k.

This is pretty common. In fact, it's very similar to the way the "gurus" do it on the forums for my old DOHC Honda motorcycle... Because who in their right mind is going to pay for a fancy 16-valve job on a 30 year old bike worth ~3k if it's mint?

Actually, they attach the fuel hose directly to the valve and go from the other side.

I am the recipient of Chrismak's drivetrain. Very pleased with it.

Chrismak said:

Thanks Phil.

The stainless looking one actually feels heavier, could be my imagination.



I just noticed that 701-A. & 701 B is stamped on the bottom edge. Definitely need your bifocals to see.

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Quick one please which one is A/B need to know as i have, Kolbenschmidt big ends that don't have A/B labeled..

Thanks again

whizznbyu said:

I am the recipient of Chrismak's drivetrain. Very pleased with it.

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Drivetrain? You mean you pulled the engine and trans out of the car, and used it in another vehicle?


.

Hey Western,

I don’t check in here much anymore but I’m subscribed to the 5 speed swap and get e mails
In my in box from time to time.
Curisoty got the better of me and I was going to send someone a link to my wiring on swap.
Checking my older threads I saw your post.

I haven’t checked with whizzen for a while on how the car is. His initial plan was to pull the drive train and put it in a wagon his son had driven throug a flash flood and locked up.

But for some reason if memory served me he got that. After running again and kept my car for himself.
I can’t confirm or deny as they say. I’m curious myself and misss the car every now and then lol.
But they are definitely something you can spend your weekend tweaking on or under lol.

If I get an update I’ll post.

Any older 300D the 123 series in your neighborhood ? They have gone up $ in last couple years if you can find a half decent one body wise.

DeliveryValve said:

Drivetrain? You mean you pulled the engine and trans out of the car, and used it in another vehicle?
.

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That is correct. Recently, an oil spray nozzle came out through the drain plug. It turns out, it is the nozzle for #4. Could this broken nozzle be the reason for #4's failure 5 years ago??

More likely it was damaged during re-assembly, possibly bumped by the rod during install. I had to diagnose a BEW once that would not rev past 2500 RPM. It had been at 3 different shops already. Turns out shop #1 damaged the crank trigger when they assembled the engine. It was bent just enough the crank sensor wouldn't read past that RPM. I found it on a scope. Pulled the oil pan, had it all fixed in under 2 hours. Poor guy had paid thousands already.

Exact same issue here as the OP on a 00 w/ 344k, rebuilt ~200k, bought 2 weeks ago $1500. Is pouting permitted here?

whizznbyu said:

That is correct. Recently, an oil spray nozzle came out through the drain plug. It turns out, it is the nozzle for #4. Could this broken nozzle be the reason for #4's failure 5 years ago??

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Don’t tell me this motor is still running. I’ve been out of diesel world for a while .
Love to touch base if you happen to see this .
Happy New Year.

Chris

Chris this motor died in 2018.