2006 Audi A4Q Avant 2.0TFSI -> 2.0TDI (Holset edition)

first drive

https://youtu.be/V4o5ra6K1aU

here's how I did the throttle pedal...I forgot to take the BEW pedal off the donor vehicle, but the ALH one is wired the same way...the B7 requires two pins to be switched at the pedal...unfortunately the 2.0T pedal is wired differently and the BEW ECU doesn't like it...

fortunately - both pedals are pretty much identical...well the sensor part anyways...

2.0T on the left, ALH on the right



took the pedals off



and swapped them over - done and done...the best part is the pedals have a pretty much infinite levels of adjustability...in their stock location the throttle pedal is lower than the other two, however it can be brought up if you like to do some heel-toe shifting - I know I`ll be doing that pretty much right away...

also finished up the fuel system...I decided to leave the 2.0T lift pump in for now...it's pushing in at 90psi (6bar or so)...I've left the system "returnless" for now using a check valve (3psi cracking pressure/200psi rated) at the return line...I`ll have to monitor the fuel temperature to make sure we're not going to have any issues...



can somebody explain the problem with "warm" diesel for the engine? my dad's OM606 mercedes runs the diesel through the coolant so it keeps it at a toasty 90C or so...so will the engine run worse with warm fuel?

Looks like you have some dash lights to solve yet

Is the gasser tach accurate? How many RPM at 100kph? You look like you're in Gatineau?

Great project - thanks for the updates.

I was driving without the front bumper, headlights etc so plenty of things to still hook up...waiting on my headlight washer pump to come in before I can button her up...completely forgot I lost a bunch of steering fluid so had to drive around with elbow power steering not sure why my battery light is on...

hahaha - did you notice the Arret sign? Aylmer to be exact

I`ll get the WG hooked up tomorrow to get some power into the engine...won't be able to get her up to speed until I finish the front up but the tach reads fine...100kph should be about 22-2300 rpm if I remember correctly...my idle is a bit high but man the engine is smooth - wouldn't tell it's a diesel if you didn't hear it...

what exhaust are the big turbo guys using? I`m thinking magnaflow cat straight to the two original 2.0T mufflers...

all the flashing lights on the dash turned out to be the ABS coding...
this is what I get:

Address 03: ABS Brakes
Control Module Part Number: 8E0 910 517 J
Component and/or Version: ESP8 quattro H06 0140
Software Coding: 0004526
Work Shop Code: WSC 06325

2 Faults Found

01314 - Engine Control Module
000 - -
18055 - Check Coding of ECUs on Powertrain Data Bus
P1647 - 000 - -

Friday,05,June,2015,18:01:02:21461
VCDS Version: Release 805.1
Data version: 20080823

Demon Diesel suggested using 4529 for the coding...the system accepted it but popped up an Airbag code and didn't clear the two codes above...unfortunately there's zero info on the Bosch 8.0 coding - I need to switch the ABS coding from 4 cyl gas to 4 cyl diesel so it would be only one digit in this code but no clue which one...it's different than the B5 and B6 codes

also - buttoned the car all up and took her for another drive...everything looked good and temperatures all came up as expected...

Still to do:

->MAF low signal code (bad MAF or maybe coding)
->CAM sensor (sigh)
->WG
->Exhaust
->ABS coding

today was a day of discovery

dash lights are out - the ABS required the 4529 code which switches to 4 cyl diesel and 15" brakes (car is equipped with 16")...so the airbags needed adaptation of #51 to the 15" brakes as well...lights are out - everything is fine

yesterday I blew up my fuel return line and today I blew up my feed line so I guess 100psi or so is the limit on these fuel lines...I`ll have to drop the pressure at the lift pump or get the TDi one...

did a bunch of reading on the cam shaft sensor and tried to adjust the cam sprocket...looks like I might be off by a tooth because when I centered the sprocket up the car refused to start...it only starts when I`m at the absolute extreem so I`ll have to pull the front back out and redo my timing...

that solves most of my problems...will tackle all of this before taking it in for the exhaust...

cam sensor resolved...re-did my timing belt yesterday - looks like I was off by a tooth maybe? wow - fastest timing belt job in my life - 1.5hrs end to end including taking the front off

replaced the blown up fuel line and basically turned off the lift pump...the tandem pump seems sufficient on its own right now and I can turn on the lift pump whenever I want if I lose prime or whatever...

the car starts and runs great...I ordered the Magnaflow cat and should be going for the exhaust next week...

used a Holley 12-803 fuel pressure regulator to bring down the 100psi from the lift pump to the 5psi needed for the tandem pump...drove around - everything seems in check and no more blowing fuel lines (interesting sight...)

car runs well right now...doesn't look like I can spool the turbo all the way up with the stock injectors....I guess that's the first big upgrade...I can hit 20+psi without issues so there's still plenty of pull with the stock setup but it needs to be dealt with down the road...

got a nice box from Magnaflow...



taking the car in for the exhaust on Monday...

got an extra T25 flange to try and mount the SDi manifold but it's still too tight...I`ll leave the crappy intake manifold on for now and use the spare head and turbo to figure it out...the compressor housing has a little too much material on it so I might shave it down or stack more T25 flanges - we`ll see....

I thought FUB determined that the SDI intake wasn't worth much if any hp?

possible...I wanted to install it but it will wait for a while

sigh...first long drive to the exhaust guy ended about half way there and required a tow truck...

completely randomly the engine died while doing 80 on the hwy and refused to start after...lots of fuel, no codes - I've no clue what's going on...only thing I was doing before was trying to get my cruise on, which btw wasn't working...don't think this is related though

only thing I can think of is ECU doesn't fire the injectors...the car doesn't even sputter...the crank and cam sensors check out ok and fuel's there so what else can cause the ECU to shut the injectors off? I thought maybe relay/fuse of some sorts?

any ideas are appreciated...

swapped the tandem pump out and played with the fuel system some more to get it started back up...looks like I might have damaged the original pump with the high pressure from the 2.0T lift pump...anyways - will clean all of that up this week but it looks like I`ll end up using the return line on the reservoir anyways...

in other news - busted out the filler neck restriction for the gasser so now can fill it up to the top...exhaust is getting done tomorrow and the car is in for safety inspection on thursday...

gotta start thinking about upgrading the injectors...the stock BEWs are having a hard time spooling up the turbo so it's time to break open the piggy bank...will drive around on these for a while until I break in the engine but I suspenct I`ll be doing cam shaft at the same time as the injectors...

gotta try to code my instrument cluster to show the correct mileage for a full tank...only shows 590km right now

nitec said:

swapped the tandem pump out and played with the fuel system some more to get it started back up...looks like I might have damaged the original pump with the high pressure from the 2.0T lift pump...anyways - will clean all of that up this week but it looks like I`ll end up using the return line on the reservoir anyways...

in other news - busted out the filler neck restriction for the gasser so now can fill it up to the top...exhaust is getting done tomorrow and the car is in for safety inspection on thursday...

gotta start thinking about upgrading the injectors...the stock BEWs are having a hard time spooling up the turbo so it's time to break open the piggy bank...will drive around on these for a while until I break in the engine but I suspenct I`ll be doing cam shaft at the same time as the injectors...

gotta try to code my instrument cluster to show the correct mileage for a full tank...only shows 590km right now

Click to expand...

Can you post some info on how you recode the cluster when you get the chance. I swapped an MFA cluster in my golf, and after several fill ups it only shows 1030km to empty, even though I do 1200-1300 a tank (64 liters vented)

First 100km are done exhaust sounds great with a MagnaFlow high flow diesel cat and the two stock B7 mufflers at the back

sorting little issues out while driving around...

1. MAF is still giving me an error - I`ll get Malone to just tune it out
2. Coolant Fan Control 1 short or open to ground - sigh...been fighting with this for a few nights now...the BEW controls the fans differently than the A4...I can't seem to find the right way to control the A4 fans - I get that error and the fans run non-stop...
3. AC wouldn't turn on - forgot to plug in the high pressure switch...of course it's the one that requires the bumper to come off - fixed
4. Clutch starter lock out doesn't work - I`m thinking the relay is not there
5. Reverse lights not working - forgot to plug the transmission
6. Alternator light on - k this one has me all confused...had to reverse the two pins on the alternator plug but the light won't go out...everything checks out ok from the ECU and instrument side of things...sounds like I need a new alternator ...I can get the BEW 120A or pick up a Passat 120 or 140A...I`m liking the idea of the 140A paired up with a nice big battery for cold winter starts
7. Cruise doesn't seem to work - haven't looked into it yet...

Pics for clicks...

2.5" SS from turbo to Magnaflow high flow diesel cat, 2.25" after the Y split into the stock mufflers...it sounds great - no need for another resonator or anything



and of course the first time I took the highway and hit the gas hard, the car blew out its high pressure line at 100psi (my fault for not replacing it earlier)...lost a quarter tank by the time I took the off ramp lol...10 min and a new line and was back on the road and on with my day thank God diesel isn't flamable...that line showered EVERYTHING under the hood...which is a good reminder to throw an extinguisher in the back

mmm spending the next two weeks behind the wheels of this...





this thing in "sport" mode is absolutely FANTASTIC...I`m thoroughly impressed! and holy smokes - it's only a 1.6TDi

passed my safety today and registered the car - it only took 2 new rear calipers, new flex lines, me hooking up the reverse lights and wiring in a clutch lock out relay - not sure why the BPW harness doesn't have that lockout relay but it was fairly easy to get one working...also replaced the alternator which seems to have fixed the red light on the dash...

once everything was done I started the car and noticed a bit of a rough idle...got it scanned and had the following code:

PD Unit Injector: Cylinder 1 (N240): Regulation Range Exceeded

I cleared the code, took it for a drive and the code came back + a vibration at certain rpm...

its kinda strange that it just came up after the car sitting around for a couple of weeks...I guess I`ll measure the harness tomorrow and see if its electrical or a bad injector...

mmm started getting a misfire on cyl 1...checked the wiring yesterday and tightened up the pins a little but no effect...here's the logs - cyl 1 stays at 127 the whole time (block 023)...perhaps the R783 nozzles will come faster than expected...

any thoughts? I checked the cam and it looks fine so it's not a failed cam...could I be starving it of fuel? but the pressure in the rail should be equal across the injectors so if anything all 4 would be having issues...





the block 013 values look good until I get the error code...if I restart the car the rough idle goes away until I take it out of the driveway and then it comes back...I can idle it all I want and rev in place without a misfire but it comes up pretty quick as soon as I start driving...

swapped injectors - looks like the seal was buggered up...

slowly climbing in the mileage - currently at 600km since first start up...

the current plan is to drive to 1000km with the stock BEW injectors and then upgrade to the R783s...at the same time I`ll do a bunch of first time maintenance including:

- oil change
- fuel filter changes (front and back)
- fuel filter redesign (gotta rerout a few lines)
- Malone retune (sigh he's back to not replying to emails - I`m guessing it's vacation season)
- engine mounts (currently driving on the 2.0Ts and I`m sensing a little too much vibration)
- alternator voltage regulator
- engine harness cleanup

still have a few issues to deal with:

- cruise doesn't work
- coolant fan control
- AC doesn't start (guessing it's tied up to the coolant fan issue since I get no other codes)

All three of these can wait for now - at least the fans have failed in an "always on" condition so there's no danger of overheating...once I sort out the fueling/power etc I might actually swap over to the BPW ECU which should take care of these issues (the cruise sounds like it might be CAN related anyways)

I`m expecting that the R783 nozzles and new Malone tune will kill the clutch fairly quickly if not immediately so I might have to bring it in for an upgrade sooner rather than later...

Thanks for the picture show of your conversion,very well set out and full of very interesting knowledge. Im in the middle of a 05 Passat wagon conversion myself and was wondering if you could supply me with the part numbers off your pressure plate and clutch please.Im thinking this would be correct for my FHN transmission that im putting in.
Thanks again

this is the kit I got:

http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Passat_B5-FWD-1.8T/Drivetrain/ES251027/

I don't expect it will last with the R783s but the flywheel looks solid so most I`ll do is upgrade the clutch/pressure plate once the clutch starts slipping...plenty of options for the 1.8T market that hold significant power/torque

I was going to go after this one:

http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Passat_B5-FWD-1.8T/Drivetrain/Clutch/ES5486/

but the low weight of the flywheel kept me away...for a gasser that would be a great way to ditch the dualmass

R783 injectors arrived yesterday - big thanks to Pete at DBW LLC for the lightning fast turnaround time!!!

also got the Malone file to drive them - also big thanks to Mark who was able to push this out even though he's very busy...

this is going to be an exciting weekend only 2 things left to do now are the 4bar MAP and likely clutch when it starts slipping...

the engine has now hit 1500km...service this weekend includes first oil change, two new fuel filters, refit of the fuel system and new engine mounts

Looking good, I'll have to swing by and have a look. About to start and Allroad BHW conversion myself. Hope all is well!

The clutch you ordered looks to be a Valeo single mass conversion, seem to be good for ~300ft-lbs if it's not abused. The problem is that the flywheel is Valeo specific and doesn't jive with any of the off the shelf 1.8T pressure plates. I've been searching long and hard for a clutch setup, will hold more than 300ft-lbs, doesn't cost $800+ and isn't a lightened flywheel.

So far I've only come up with this recipe:

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=363271

I'll let you know how it works out for me!

Hey Luke! what's up guy? done with the motorcycle adventures?

ECS has the RA4 240mm modified RS4 clutch kit that comes with the flywheel, clutch and pressure plate that will bolt up to this with no issues...only trouble is the starter - you'd have to get the OEM 240mm diesel one from EU if I understood correctly...the 2.0T starter appears too weak for this business...this clutch is rated at 295ftlbs...where did you get your 300ftlbs number for the Value kit?

Check on pg 2 - somebody mentioned that Whitbread has a 240mm setup that works with the stock BHW starter so that may also be a solution...I`m not sure how high my TQ numbers will go but my clutch right now is brand new so I`m not in a hurry to destroy it...are you sure the pressure plate is Valeo unique? they supply stock components for tons of cars - I`m surprised that they'd design a plate that's not interchangable with stock units

You really need TDI cluster , it is very easy to over-rev those cars and damage engine with Gas cluster. I have seen it before .
I can help you with swap of cluster , as I did for Demon.

jetta said:

You really need TDI cluster , it is very easy to over-rev those cars and damage engine with Gas cluster. I have seen it before .
I can help you with swap of cluster , as I did for Demon.

Click to expand...

hmm I think I`ll live with the gasser cluster for now

I gotta be completely honest - if after the amount of time and money I've put into this I somehow forget it's a diesel and rev it to the 7k red line then I deserve to blow this engine up...I don't think a different red line on the dash can cure stupid

seriously though? somebody blew their engine up because the cluster said red line is at 7k?

Some tuners don't have a rev limit I guess. Your Malone tune definitely does.

Yes, unfortunately the California dream is over. For now. I'm sure there will be more motorcycle adventures to come, those surfer girls made sure of that.

You're probably right about the Valeo being rated for 295ft-lbs. I know of people running more than that without slippage, but have heard lots of reports to the contrary as well. Ottawa Clutch told me not to even bother with the Valeo if I was running a tune.

The RA4 kit would work, but the flywheel is only 12lbs. Less than ideal in my opinion.

Whitbread makes a SMF 240mm setup that I'm sure would hold big torque. I believe he is using custom 30lb flywheels and mentioned that a modified fluidamper was required, which added to the cost significantly. Probably the best solution because he's designed it for a diesel application, instead of using something from a 1.8T, but it is definitely a more expensive route.

From what I have been told, the Valeo pressure plate is specific to the Valeo flywheel. I'm not sure what about them is different than any other 1.8t clutch setup though.

LukeWilson said:

The RA4 kit would work, but the flywheel is only 12lbs. Less than ideal in my opinion.

Click to expand...

precisely why I didn't buy it...

hmmm..

RS4: 295ftlbs
W8: 273 ftlbs
1.8T: 166 ftlbs (lol)
2.0T: 207 ftlbs
1.9TDi (stock): 177 ftlbs

I really don't think the stock 1.8T valeo will last much past 200...

edit: this is interesting...Valeo 240mm kit 835026 - stock replacement for Audi/Passat from 2000-2005...does that mean it works with the BHW 228mm starter?

clocked in at 7.5L/100km (31mpg) city on my first tank...haven't had a chance to take her on a long trip yet so we`ll see

the clutch issue boils down to this - I want to continue using my BHW starter and 228mm SMF flywheel...this means I need a clutch/pressure plate combo that will bolt to the Valeo 228mm SMF and take the TQ of the engine...any other option will be over $1k so not desirable...

my second choice is a complete 240mm kit that works with the BHW starter (Whitbread?)

short of that I`d have to start looking into bringing an EU starter to work with the bigger flywheels etc

nitec said:

clocked in at 7.5L/100km (31mpg) city on my first tank...haven't had a chance to take her on a long trip yet so we`ll see

the clutch issue boils down to this - I want to continue using my BHW starter and 228mm SMF flywheel...this means I need a clutch/pressure plate combo that will bolt to the Valeo 228mm SMF and take the TQ of the engine...any other option will be over $1k so not desirable...

my second choice is a complete 240mm kit that works with the BHW starter (Whitbread?)

short of that I`d have to start looking into bringing an EU starter to work with the bigger flywheels etc

Click to expand...

I do not think any other kit ,except Valeo , will work with that Flywheel.