Changed timing belt-idles fine no power

I changed the timing belt on my '02 Jetta this past weekend. I used the timing belt tool kit from Metalnerd and a timing belt kit from Dieselgeek. I also have VagCom. I followed the procedure for the installation given in the "how to" section of this site, and also had the Bently manual for reference.
When got everything put in, I rotaged the engine as directed with no issues. I started the car with VagCom running to set the timing. When I would open "basic settings" the car would start running poorly. I then opened the measuring blocks to read the timing and the car started running fine again. I went ahead and made the adjustments to get to the middle of the band shown in the manual.
The car was running great for two days. I was on the highway and pushed down hard on the accelerator and the car stalled and lost almost all power. I limped into my parents, less than 1/4 mile.
I took the valve cover off to inspect the cam and lifters. All looked ok. I rotated the flywheel to have the -0- at the bottom of the window, took the vacuum pump off and inserted the locking tool into the slot. I also checked that the injector pump was in alignment, pin would go into the correct hole (all three layers). So far, so good.
I then hooked my VagCom up to check the timing, again looking at it in measuring blocks. It had changed from where I put it. I readjusted it to get back in the middle of the band. The car still idles fine but stumbles when I try to accelerate. I watch the TDI timing graph and the intersecting point of 2&9 drops out of the window when I rev it up.

I spent several hours searching through threads, but I couldn't find any help on my situation. Help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Sorry for the lengthy write up.

You can't rev it while checking timing.

Either the IP bolts were loose and it slipped just enough to almost stall you (happened yesterday to me) or tensioner isn't installed properly. My vote is on the IP bolts. I'm inclined to use the blue loc-tite stuff on all 3 bolts next time I make a timing adjustment for anyone else. It sucks to have the pump slide around.

If the timing is right around the top line, near 65 or 70, you should torque those IP bolts down (loc-tite them IMO) and it should hold right there. Power should be good after. Others more experienced will give you more things to check, good luck.

don't rev it in the timing window.
set the adjustment to the top of the graph. Did you replace the three bolts on the injection pump?
I would bet a charge pipe worked it's way loose, or a vacuum line came off.

What codes are stored? Does the power return with a restart?

let me know if you want me to take a look at it... Muenster isn't that far out...

Thanks for the help guys. After several hours of thinking that I was in deep trouble, I started retracing my steps. Finally came to the turbo-the boost hose had popped off!!! It all made sense. Lost power and lots of smoke when I gave it some heafty throttle going up a hill. I hooked it up and took her for a test drive. She's purring like a kitten now. I got off cheap this time, but learned an important lesson about paying attention to detail. I hadn't put the clamp far up enough on the hose to keep it secured.

I'm glad to be a member of the forum now. This is one of the best and most useful sites for TDI owners on the web.

One more thing: I have quite a bit of oil in my intake. Is there a mod that I can do to get rid of this issue?


alphaseinor, thank you for offering to help.

You do have to be in "basic settings" to set the timing.

Oil in the intake is a normal process of the crankcase breather system. It won't hurt a thing. The EGR is what gives the issues in the intakes.

As for the oil in your intake/ intercooler pipes, there are quite a few improvements for the stock CCV you can do. That is most often where a otherwise healthy engine will get oil into the intercooler.

I got a Provent, but there are some 'homemades' like OldNavy and one that is made out of PVC pipe.

Basically, it's an improved oil separator in place of or in addition to the CCV.

Without knowing the miles on the car, the other abnormal amount of oil in the intercooler tubes are caused, in order:

Worn valve guides (blow-by)
radial play in turbo (dynamic seal in turbo)
worn rings (lots of miles, questionable care)

Also, I've never had to Loctite any I.P. bolts. Just torque them correctly. They won't let go.

ninedee_golf_tdi said:

You do have to be in "basic settings" to set the timing.

Click to expand...

Actually you should go to engine-->basic settings-->go-->tdi timing for the timing graph... per the bentley and per ross-tech.
No rise above run calcs for me!

Follow up:
189,000 miles on the car
-2 timing belts (that I know of-bought the car with 70k and it had NO maint records)
-3 glow plugs
-1 alternator to battery cable, fuse block, and harness (this was a good one)
-1 glow plug harness
-1 ATF filter/fluid change
-Fuel filter & air filter every 30k

As you can see, I have had very good luck with this vehicle.

one tooth

Hey Branden,
I had some issues after I changed my timing belt too. The timing was touchy to set and wanted to move around a little, it ran rough under basic settings but the computer made it start well and run good when it was in control, it also lost 3-4 mpg and took longer in each gear to shift. I followed the procedure by "drivbwire" in the second conversation in this thread http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=183152 and found I was one tooth off on the tb. Fairly simple procedure and it sure helped me.