flee
Veteran Member
BakoTdi, does your VW have anti-lock brakes? That sounds like it might be A/L brakes activating.
Yes, that's correct.BakoTdi, does your VW have anti-lock brakes? That sounds like it might be A/L brakes activating.
Find a VCDS and scan for codes. You may need a new brake module or ?Yes, that's correct.
I don't believe that to be normal though. It is a bit scary if you forget it can happen, and when it does, you can't stop momentarily, and once I release and press on pedal again, it's normal. ugh...
Find a VCDS and scan for codes. You may need a new brake module or ?
That "kit" is what, $24.50?? I ordered vacuum pump seal from IDParts and internal o-ring from O-Ring Store and even with shipping my total was $14.54.Anyway, today I came across this video on youtube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7aRX4gfcpek) and was wondering if anyone had come across this before, and since nobody mentioned it, I thought I would share it. The website the kit can be bought is this (https://www.rkxtech.com/products/vw-alh-tdi-vacuum-pump-reseal-kit). Some of you seem to have purchased the 2.5mmx74mm V75 Viton from the O-ring Store and seem to have no problems with it. I am thinking that if this is the right o-ring size, I might not have to get the kit I mentioned above since there are no specifications on the size of the o-ring included in the kit.
.
I figured that the convenience of the "kit" would beneficial, but I agree, not sure if $10 is really that much more convenient! hahaThat "kit" is what, $24.50?? I ordered vacuum pump seal from IDParts and internal o-ring from O-Ring Store and even with shipping my total was $14.54.
I tried the soft durometer in size -151 o-ring, and it started leaking after less than a year. The standard/harder durometer might seal better and work.How has the alternative size o-ring worked out? Staying leak free? I'm
about to order for my vacuum pump and am curious how the two sizes listed in this thread are working out. Thanks for any update you can give!
Is the 74mm a OD or ID measurement? If I go to my local o-ring store, they are going to want all three measurements for the orderO-ring is 74mm x 3mm
JB Weld worked for me. I tried to fix the sloppiness with a punch and ended up breaking the housing. I cleaned up the housing with brake clean and JB Welded the fitting.So, has anyone come up with a fix for the loose vacuum pump nipple that actually works? I tried JB Weld and that was a waste of time. I have enough of a vacuum loss with that thing to rob me of braking power.
SO MANY THANKS !! the Tappy-Tap method you have mentioned worked like a charmHere is a simple drawing showing a section through the nipple. During manufacture, the nipple is set into its hole, then the lip of the hole is rolled over to secure the nipple.
As the engine rocks back and forth during acceleration and deceleration, the booster hose tugs on the nipple. This, over time, pulls the lip up slightly and you get a loosey-goosey nipple. Whatever seal is underneath the nipple will tolerate a bit of looseness, more than that and you get a vacuum leak
The pump needs to be off the car as you just can't get good access with a hammer if it's on the car.
Chuck it in a vise. Don't clap the vise on the area where the o-ring goes, you don't want to mar that surface or you could get a oil leak.
Take a punch and put it on the edge of the lip, parallel to the nipple as per the red arrow. Give it one good whap with a hammer. Go around the lip with the hammer and punch, I do 10 or 12 hits all around the lip.