Tools for BSM replacement

Hello. I'm hoping someone can help with this. I've gotten the gear driven BSM for my BHW, and I'm trying to source the tools to replace it. Is there anyone who would be willing to loan me a set? I can pay a rental fee too. I'm located in northeastern CT. If not local, I can pay for shipping. Thanks in advance!

For crank lock tool i used a piece of angle iron.

Get a good tap to plug the old oil port.

Cheap eBay or Amazon cam lock tool kit.

I used a zip wheel on the side grinder to cut off the old crank gear.

Torque wrench.

Basic tools, cherry picker and engine stand for the great.

Thats all i can remember right now.

And a ross tech to set the torsion value after timing belt swap

Triple Square bits
Assortment of torqx bits

You won't be blocking the oil port. I used no particular tools tools for the instalation of the gear driven balance shaft. A couple good whacks with a cold chisel on the side of the crank gear loosens it enough to come off.

I installed the balance shaft by sight only. The recommended tool is only to keep the shaft in a certain position while installing the idler gear.

I made up a beam to suspend the engine while lowering the sub frame and removing the oil pan. A couple appropriate pins can be used to align the subframe during installation.

A crank lock would be worth having on hand. The rest, common hand tools.

Get that intermediate gear snugged up tight .

If you can come up with the complete kit, it would be nice.

Happy wrenching.

I would assume your putting on a used one? Make sure it isn't worn out like the one in the following video.

https://youtu.be/3A1Js9FC4TU

Argh..im a bone head he said gear driven not a delete

zzdiesel said:

I installed the balance shaft by sight only. The recommended tool is only to keep the shaft in a certain position while installing the idler gear.

Click to expand...

Do you only have to get it close by 1 tooth? I thought the installation was infinitely variable. If not, then doing it by sight would be easy (hell, I did my timing belt that way).

Thanks for all the great responses everyone. I'll check out that hex shaft tomorrow. The place that sold it to me says they inspect every unit, but who knows?

You need the balance shaft lock tool to time the balance shaft to the crankshaft. If it is not timed, then the whole purpose of having it there in the first place is thrown out.

And the timing belt is not timed "by teeth". It is precision timed by allowing the cam sprocket to rotate during tensioning.

You can(I have many times on many different engines including v twin cyl/twin cam ) mark teeth with paint marker at each gear. Then count teeth from crank to cam mark. Then mark each new belt and install at proper marks. The bhw does not have a cam tdc mark i have seen, engines like Honda's have very easily seen timing marks on crank and cam (on B and D series motors)

So if the valve springs push that cam off even a tooth and you didnt count or mark right you're very screwed.

Cheap ebay or Amazon cam lock tools are less than 30 bucks. They dont fit 100% like oem tools but keep it from moving. I used these tools as well as the mark/count method as well for good measure.. I then spin the engine over 360 degrees to verify i have it set properly.

That's not how it works. Counting teeth just means you put the new belt on how the old belt was on, and after the normal service interval, the old belt is not like a new belt.

The BHW's cam locks at #1 TDC, just like every other TDI (and many other engines, not limited to diesels.... ). The sprocket moves, that is the adjustment, and it needs to move as the tensioner is moved into its position. It is silly simple, and it is EASIER to do this job properly, which is why I will never, ever understand why people do M&P jobs.

This is not a Honda engine.

And the timing belt setting is in addition to the balance shaft setting, and requires different tools. Which I think is what the OP was asking about anyway.

Well...I checked the hex shaft today. Wanted to just pull it out so I pulled the snap ring and gave the hex a tug. Wouldn't budge. That's when I realized it's epoxied in place! Before I write to the person who sold it to me, is that normal or ok? Here's a photo: https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=10157174890455766&set=a.10150527061760766


Let me know if you can't see the link. It's a public post, so should be visible.

I ended up emailing the guy anyway. He sent me photos (which I posted as replies to the link above). Here is his response:

"Hello hexagonwhole inside is perfect inside the shaft and we didnt have to do this cold welding but we doing this to give you extra 20000 miles when key will start woveing little bit so after 20000 miles key will start working and because whole is perfect we just slow downt time when key will start playing. We doing this from last 5 years and we dont have even 1 return or complain.I see that this gut is not specialist on this movie because all hexagon and balance shaft are movein little bit even if they are new but different story is when key is moving more and more during the time so lets say after 8 years hexagon key is losing corners and this is the problem because oil pump is stops working when key is slipping. so first we are not usein worned shafts because we make them bigger and we sell them for more money with full oil pump cost if 400 pounds plus delivery and second we use the best shafts for customers like you and this oil pump will works probably next 5-10 years depend how many miles you are doing per year. we never didnt remove this keys but probably one way is to remove it is take key in to the wice and 5 kilo hammer but it will never keep in the same way becouse we use very axpensive special material to keep in tight in side and is 24 hour thick so se move avery 30 minutes 180 degrees to keep it perfect in te middle inside the oil pump.
Dont worry we are not selling bad oil pumps look on my positive feedback we builidng pump from almost 8 years."

i have never heard of gluing it in place before. I suppose if the alignment is on it should be OK. Obviously there must be a new crank gear. Is the intermediate gear new also and one with the proper coating which sets the lash?

Is it from Serbia or somewhere over there?

sword_guy said:

...I see that this gut is not specialist on this movie because all hexagon and balance shaft are movein little bit even if they are new but different story is when key is moving more and more during the time so lets say after 8 years hexagon key is losing corners and this is the problem because oil pump is stops working when key is slipping.

Click to expand...

First off, the guy in the video most certainly is a specialist, the truest definition of one.

Secondly, it is apparent that you are purchasing a used BSM from a foreign source (judged by the poor english), where do you think the epoxy is going to go once it breaks down? Is this vendor using new hex shafts or just epoxying the worn out used one in place?

I personally would delete the shaft, as I have done to all 5 of the B5.5 BHW's I owned, and they also got a 3rd pedal mod.

Good luck.

Try this guy. I rented all needed tools from him.

s4phillips@sbcglobal.net
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