Need some help from the expert knowledge here

See if that fixes the photos

damn...

What do you guys think of this?

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bxzw6NebzRUhMEFMMmtkd1JPNTg/view

2004LB7 said:

What do you guys think of this?

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bxzw6NebzRUhMEFMMmtkd1JPNTg/view

Click to expand...

Ok, what is that?

Testing this with my failed pump, I drilled a hole on the back side, tapped it and put a machine screw in it. I ground the end of the screw to be a small stud with no threads.

On the roller follower part, the part we don't want to turn but just go up and down, I ground a slot for the machine screw to ride in. This keeps it from turning and self destructing.

This one may be a better video

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bxzw6NebzRUhQjRfVFlZMThISk0/view?usp=sharing

here is some photos of the modification

drill and tap a hole on the back of the pump. i used a 10-32


this is the hole on the inside of the bore


i then cut a slot in the roller follower and ground off the last few threads of a set screw


this should keep the roller follower from twisting in the bore and aligned with the cam. it wont prevent the problem of the roller getting jammed up and not turn but should help with one of the problems

PS: don't forget the locktite on the set screw

its alive !!!

well almost. it is down on power and smokes

i am thinking the injectors are trashed

here are the ballance rates

#1 = +0.65 to +0.75
#2 = +0.65 to +0.75
#3 = +0.00 to +0.22
#4 = -0.99 to -1.25

do any of you think there is any chance of an adventurous one like me of taking the injectors apart and cleaning them?

2004LB7 said:

its alive !!!

well almost. it is down on power and smokes

i am thinking the injectors are trashed

here are the ballance rates

#1 = +0.65 to +0.75
#2 = +0.65 to +0.75
#3 = +0.00 to +0.22
#4 = -0.99 to -1.25

do any of you think there is any chance of an adventurous one like me of taking the injectors apart and cleaning them?

Click to expand...

Kerma says they can fix them after a pump failure. Check with Charlie.

i took the injectors out and disassembled then, cleaned them with brake cleaner, oiled the parts and reassembled them

when i first start the engine it has full power but only lasts for a few seconds then goes into its low power mode. no codes or CEL. if i restart the engine it will have power again but after a few seconds its back to its low power mode.

i didn't see any contaminants, metal or otherwise in the injectors

New balance rates after cleaning

#1 = +0.28
#2 = -0.02
#3 = +0.40
#4 = -0.68

so it does look like some improvement

for the power issue, my guess is that the computer sees something it doesn't like (probably injector related) and shuts off an injector or limiting fuel. a sort of limp home mode if you will

the weird thing is there is no codes to be found so i am not sure where to go from here

I tried cleaning #4 again but it doesn't look to have helped any on the balancing. I did find out that it runs good when cold but falls on its face when it gets a little heat in it.

I ran a log of fuel quantity, fuel pressure & boost. I am going to look it over to see if anything stands out

so far i have put about 100 miles on the car since the repairs. i think i have a boost leak somewhere as it is still going into limp mode, but i have decided to concentrate on the exhaust smoking issue now

i purchased an injector and replaced #2 as it was the highest negative value. but it still smokes



here is the current injector deviation numbers. if you had to guess, what injector(s) is causing the smoking?

I took the injector that came out of #2 and put it in #4. The smoke is now almost all gone. I drove around and it didn't go into limp mode once.

New deviation values

#1. -0.14
#2. +0.05
#3. -0.02
#4. +0.07

Same happened to me. 80-ish on timing belt, and 17 hours away from home. Decided I would do the belt when I got back. Unfortunately, the belt decided to go out when I was out of state. Had to take to VW dealer. I did check belt first by taking off top timing cover and cranking, and cam turned as it should. No fuel flow, and started with ether, so I decided on changing the lift pump in hotel parking lot. Ended up being teeth on crank chewed off. I thought it, and see it a lot, but the mechanic at dealer said BEWs are not interference engines. New belt, wp, tensioner and I drove it home.

jjo5569 said:

Same happened to me. 80-ish on timing belt, and 17 hours away from home. Decided I would do the belt when I got back. Unfortunately, the belt decided to go out when I was out of state. Had to take to VW dealer. I did check belt first by taking off top timing cover and cranking, and cam turned as it should. No fuel flow, and started with ether, so I decided on changing the lift pump in hotel parking lot. Ended up being teeth on crank chewed off. I thought it, and see it a lot, but the mechanic at dealer said BEWs are not interference engines. New belt, wp, tensioner and I drove it home.

Click to expand...

That Mechanic is not right in the head..

All of these TDIs are very much interference engines... if you stripped teeth on the timing belt and its still running after replacement, you are extremely lucky..

took the pump out to have a look. has maybe 6k miles on it since i pinned it and used a carbide roller
All and all, it looks good. the roller shoe, Carbide roller have no visible wear.


The slot I made for the set screw pin only has some minor rub marks from the set screw, nothing to worry about.




the only thing I see is at the top of the lob the wear resistant coating I had applied is worn off. you cant feel it when wiping your finger over it so I don't think it is a problem



Based on these results, I would say it is definitely worth it despite the few relative miles since the mod. the peace of mind alone is worth having.