NevadaVandal
Member
Anyone changed the brake fluid at 100k miles? I have 2001 golf tdi with 170k. Procedure?
Need to bleed brakes? Thank you.
Need to bleed brakes? Thank you.
Last edited:
Brake Fluid Change
- Thread starter NevadaVandal
- Start date
Mongler98
Top Post Dawg
- Joined
- Mar 23, 2011
- Location
- COLORADO (SE of Denver)
- TDI
- 98 Jetta TDI AHU 1.9L (944 TDI swap in progress) I moved so now i got nothing but an AHU in a garage on a pallet.
simple, here watch this video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n1NvtUwfRJc
a tip, dont shake the bottle, let it sit for 30 minutes after a car ride form shipping or from the store before you start adding to help air bubbles stay out.
you should be changing it every 2 years regardless of miles. its cheep, easy and really helps keep the system healthy.
brake flush is about the same on all cars. Some cars have ABS procedures for getting the air bubbles our and some have them for even just a bleed.
curtludwig wrote in a thread stating:
"So what you do is connect up VCDS, go into the brake module and run the output tests. It'll run the pump, then have you hold the pedal, run the pump some more, release the pedal, step on the pedal, run the pump, etc for each corner.
The instructions at myturbodiesel suggest 30 seconds which feels like FOREVER when you're sitting there with your foot on the pedal. I actually worked up to it in 5-10 second bursts and while my car isn't perfect yet its MUCH better. I think one more run and I'll have it cracked.
I've driven a lot of newer cars that had this same symptom where the pedal would sink way low and then grab all of a sudden. I hate that and I'm wondering if those cars all needed to have their ABS systems bled...
The VCDS cable from Ross Tech is 100% worth the money, asking if you can do this without the cable is the wrong question. The right question is why don't you have the cable yet?"
http://www.myturbodiesel.com/wiki/brake-fluid-and-clutch-bleeding-and-flush-mk3-and-mk4-vw-and-audi/
you can do this one person with the bottle and hose trick. I highly sugest going with ATE gold. love this stuff, much higher boiling point and a better quality fluid unlike the $3 a quart crap dot 3 at autozone, but that is still brake fluid too and is not going to hurt your car if you do use it.
Another Tip. put a 2x4 or your shoe behind the brake pedal, this keeps you from bottoming out the master cylinder, corrosion will collect beyond the normal travel of that and when you go past it, it can damage the seals and cause issues down the road, your not slowing anything down or messing anything up by doing this and it can save you from a possible nightmare of a problem of replacing the master and brake booster.
good luck you can do it. Start from the further wheel from the master and work your way up.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n1NvtUwfRJc
a tip, dont shake the bottle, let it sit for 30 minutes after a car ride form shipping or from the store before you start adding to help air bubbles stay out.
you should be changing it every 2 years regardless of miles. its cheep, easy and really helps keep the system healthy.
brake flush is about the same on all cars. Some cars have ABS procedures for getting the air bubbles our and some have them for even just a bleed.
curtludwig wrote in a thread stating:
"So what you do is connect up VCDS, go into the brake module and run the output tests. It'll run the pump, then have you hold the pedal, run the pump some more, release the pedal, step on the pedal, run the pump, etc for each corner.
The instructions at myturbodiesel suggest 30 seconds which feels like FOREVER when you're sitting there with your foot on the pedal. I actually worked up to it in 5-10 second bursts and while my car isn't perfect yet its MUCH better. I think one more run and I'll have it cracked.
I've driven a lot of newer cars that had this same symptom where the pedal would sink way low and then grab all of a sudden. I hate that and I'm wondering if those cars all needed to have their ABS systems bled...
The VCDS cable from Ross Tech is 100% worth the money, asking if you can do this without the cable is the wrong question. The right question is why don't you have the cable yet?"
http://www.myturbodiesel.com/wiki/brake-fluid-and-clutch-bleeding-and-flush-mk3-and-mk4-vw-and-audi/
you can do this one person with the bottle and hose trick. I highly sugest going with ATE gold. love this stuff, much higher boiling point and a better quality fluid unlike the $3 a quart crap dot 3 at autozone, but that is still brake fluid too and is not going to hurt your car if you do use it.
Another Tip. put a 2x4 or your shoe behind the brake pedal, this keeps you from bottoming out the master cylinder, corrosion will collect beyond the normal travel of that and when you go past it, it can damage the seals and cause issues down the road, your not slowing anything down or messing anything up by doing this and it can save you from a possible nightmare of a problem of replacing the master and brake booster.
good luck you can do it. Start from the further wheel from the master and work your way up.
Mongler98
Top Post Dawg
- Joined
- Mar 23, 2011
- Location
- COLORADO (SE of Denver)
- TDI
- 98 Jetta TDI AHU 1.9L (944 TDI swap in progress) I moved so now i got nothing but an AHU in a garage on a pallet.
Oh another tip, use a deadblow hammer or rubber mallet and gently hammer some light blows on the calipers when your flughing them to get all the air bubbles if any our. You can use this trick to make it one person
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1wwq1Vlk4Wg
On your car, and mine as well, the reservoir easily can be unhooked from the master. If you do this next step, make sure its the first thing you do before anything else. Syphon out all the old fluid, put LOTS and LOTS of paper towels and rags everywhere under it, unhook it, clean up the area where the towels are and make sure nothing falls into the exposed master
now you can clean the reservoir. use a can of brake parts cleaner and clean that sucker out good, now blow it clear with some compressed air or canned air now take a hair dryer and dry it out, once is cleaned up all that nasty (probably green or brown) sediment out, hook it back up and fill it up and go to town. make sure its always full of fluid half way between each wheel flush. I always buy an extra quart than i need.
if brake fluid gets on anything with paint on it, use LOTS of cold water to get it off, do not rub. i always keep a gallon of cold water next to me just incase, brake fluid will eat paint FAST
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1wwq1Vlk4Wg
On your car, and mine as well, the reservoir easily can be unhooked from the master. If you do this next step, make sure its the first thing you do before anything else. Syphon out all the old fluid, put LOTS and LOTS of paper towels and rags everywhere under it, unhook it, clean up the area where the towels are and make sure nothing falls into the exposed master
now you can clean the reservoir. use a can of brake parts cleaner and clean that sucker out good, now blow it clear with some compressed air or canned air now take a hair dryer and dry it out, once is cleaned up all that nasty (probably green or brown) sediment out, hook it back up and fill it up and go to town. make sure its always full of fluid half way between each wheel flush. I always buy an extra quart than i need.
if brake fluid gets on anything with paint on it, use LOTS of cold water to get it off, do not rub. i always keep a gallon of cold water next to me just incase, brake fluid will eat paint FAST
need4speed
Veteran Member
- Joined
- May 4, 2004
A power brake bleeder (like from Motiv) is also a very handy tool. Connects to the brake reservoir, and pressurizes the system so you don't need someone pumping the brake pedal while you're operating the valves.
I believe this negates the need for the VCDS procedure as well, but I could be wrong. I've used mine to bleed my TDI, a couple of ABS and DST equipped BMW's and a Toyota. Never any problems. But if someone who knows better corrects me, go ahead and listen to them.
I believe this negates the need for the VCDS procedure as well, but I could be wrong. I've used mine to bleed my TDI, a couple of ABS and DST equipped BMW's and a Toyota. Never any problems. But if someone who knows better corrects me, go ahead and listen to them.
