LuK clutch and oil pan question

Water4fire · Jan 9, 2018

Guys i recieved my LuK clutch for my jetta off of amazon and i wasnt very happy they shiped the box as is with no extra packaging so box was tore up bad. Anyway it appears the alignment tool did not make it and came out of the trashed box. However i did notice this clutch is all assembled. So first question is the alignment tool needed? If so got to call amazon.

Second question is i have had my car apart for two weeks now since the oil pan took a good hit. So i decided to just service the girl since my stock sachs clutch had 400,000 miles. Anyway to the question do i need to prime the oil pump since i have had it apart for a while?

Thanks a bunch.

germerican · Jan 9, 2018

You need an alignment tool, you'll be sorry if it isn't aligned correctly. It also make installing the trans a lot easier.

If you you're worried about priming the oil pump, refill the oil through the oil filter housing instead of the valve cover.

Water4fire · Jan 9, 2018

Believe me i want to, but also notice since the clutch is all togethere there isnt any movement. Never had a clutch come put togethere before.

Water4fire · Jan 9, 2018

Ok so i am going to fill oil through the filter and also the oil pump should have oil in the body of the pump so no prime should be needed.

I spent 20mins on the phone with amazon and i am not happy they want me to return the clutch kit and send out a new kit with the tool. You guys think i can just do the long socket trick. I really dont want to wait another 7 days.

jimbote · Jan 9, 2018

germerican said:
You need an alignment tool, you'll be sorry if it isn't aligned correctly. It also make installing the trans a lot easier.

WRONG! the LUK clutch is preassembled and does not require an alignment tool period ! you obviously have never dealt with the preassembled luk kits and you shouldn't spout incorrect info ... to the OP: just line up the bolt holes (one is offset to insure correct orientation) run them all in, torque to 22, 44, then 1/4 turn .... a long enough 12mm triple square is required to reach the holes through the pressure plate fingers

germerican · Jan 10, 2018

Point taken. I thought I had accurate info. Thanks for the correction jimbote

Water4fire · Jan 10, 2018

Thank you very much for the response i am going to finish install today, but my triple sqaure is to short so off to get a longer one. LMAO. Its always something. Ha ha.

maxmoo · Jan 10, 2018

jimbote said:
WRONG! the LUK clutch is preassembled and does not require an alignment tool period ! you obviously have never dealt with the preassembled luk kits and you shouldn't spout incorrect info ... to the OP: just line up the bolt holes (one is offset to insure correct orientation) run them all in, torque to 22, 44, then 1/4 turn .... a long enough 12mm triple square is required to reach the holes through the pressure plate fingers

^ This...also remember to use new tty bolts for flywheel to crank....I don't remember if the luk kit comes with new bolts or not.
Also I would replace the pivot pin or at least inspect the pivot pin and fork for wear or damage...fairly common on these high milage tdi's.

Water4fire · Jan 10, 2018

It came with new bolts. Thank you!

Water4fire · Jan 10, 2018

Also just for input and info for you guys.

2003 jetta tdi ALH 1.9
400,089 miles
Avg. 47 mph at 72mph
Original Sachs clutch
Original Turbo, but had been easy off cleaned.
Original injection pump, but diesel geek seal kit.

Just had to do this because i hit the dam oil pan at my sons wedding and said what the heck do it. Clutch was very close to hitting the tabs so it was time.

jimbote · Jan 10, 2018

germerican said:
Point taken. I thought I had accurate info. Thanks for the correction jimbote

sorry for my rude response man.... i can come across as a total prick sometimes, fallible human here

KrashDH · Jan 10, 2018

Water4fire said:
Ok so i am going to fill oil through the filter and also the oil pump should have oil in the body of the pump so no prime should be needed.

I spent 20mins on the phone with amazon and i am not happy they want me to return the clutch kit and send out a new kit with the tool. You guys think i can just do the long socket trick. I really dont want to wait another 7 days.

If you're worried about priming, disconnect the single wire going to the fuel cutoff solenoid on the injector pump. It will crank and not start and push oil through the system. I'll be doing this tonight after I replace my turbo drain line.

Crank for 10-15 sec, let 'er sit for a couple minutes, then repeat a couple times.

germerican · Jan 10, 2018

jimbote said:
sorry for my rude response man.... i can come across as a total prick sometimes, fallible human here

No problem!

Water4fire said:
Also just for input and info for you guys.

2003 jetta tdi ALH 1.9
400,089 miles
Avg. 47 mph at 72mph
Original Sachs clutch
Original Turbo, but had been easy off cleaned.
Original injection pump, but diesel geek seal kit.

Just had to do this because i hit the dam oil pan at my sons wedding and said what the heck do it. Clutch was very close to hitting the tabs so it was time.

Glad you're keeping it on the road!

SmilesAndGimps · Jan 10, 2018

Just a word of warning about these preassembled LUK clutches:

I installed one last year after my stock clutch went out on my 02 Jetta. I'd never installed a clutch that was mounted to the flywheel already and considered disassembling it prior to install but decided otherwise -- nor did I have to stupid M7 spline bit needed to do so! Long story short, a small fragment of some now-unidentifiable metal had gotten into the clutch housing at some point (I honestly can't say it was during manufacture but I also can't think of a moment during the installation that anything could have gotten in there) and caused me a s*!t load of trouble to figure out!

Ended up shearing the heads off two of the bolts that hold the flywheel to the engine block and rendered the vehicle undriveable for the duration of my head scratching trying to figure out what the hell went wrong... So inspect that thing well before you put it on!

Super easy to install though, no alignment tool needed. Good luck!

maxmoo · Jan 10, 2018

SmilesAndGimps said:
Just a word of warning about these preassembled LUK clutches:

I installed one last year after my stock clutch went out on my 02 Jetta. I'd never installed a clutch that was mounted to the flywheel already and considered disassembling it prior to install but decided otherwise -- nor did I have to stupid M7 spline bit needed to do so! Long story short, a small fragment of some now-unidentifiable metal had gotten into the clutch housing at some point (I honestly can't say it was during manufacture but I also can't think of a moment during the installation that anything could have gotten in there) and caused me a s*!t load of trouble to figure out!

Ended up shearing the heads off two of the bolts that hold the flywheel to the engine block and rendered the vehicle undriveable for the duration of my head scratching trying to figure out what the hell went wrong... So inspect that thing well before you put it on!

Super easy to install though, no alignment tool needed. Good luck!

On the other hand, an awful lot of these clutches have been installed for quiet a few years now without any issues.

AndyBees · Jan 10, 2018

I installed this same LUK kit to my ALH in the Vanagon late last spring.

As stated, it comes ready to bolt to the crankshaft, bolts included and no need for the pilot shaft guide.

So, far it has been great!

Water4fire · Jan 10, 2018

Guys thanks for all the response's as it does help. I ended up adding more to my list of things to do to her since she was down and apart.
New T-stat and O-rings, re pack CV joints and clean and install new EGR with intake manifold. Honestly this thing looks amazing for 400k. Hell the bottom of my crank and windage tray look almost new.

Water4fire · Jan 11, 2018

Well i have had a bunch of fun freshening up my jetta. Today i went through the transmission and was swapping seals when i found out the input shaft seal is actually in the release bearing guide sleve so i ordered one of them and also a seAl. So now i have a extra input shaft seal as i am going with the whole new guide sleve with new seal.
Also finished cleaning my intake ports in the head. What fun.

KCTDI · Jan 12, 2018

Water4fire said:
Well i have had a bunch of fun freshening up my jetta. Today i went through the transmission and was swapping seals when i found out the input shaft seal is actually in the release bearing guide sleve so i ordered one of them and also a seAl. So now i have a extra input shaft seal as i am going with the whole new guide sleve with new seal.
Also finished cleaning my intake ports in the head. What fun.

Now is a good time to install a new T.O. bearing arm and pivot pin in it also while you've got it apart.

Water4fire · Jan 12, 2018

Yes sir throw out bearing, arm, and pivot pin all changed. Thanks for the heads up reminder.

I cleaned tranny to brand new with tons of cleaner and a hotsy.

Prairie Chicken · Jan 12, 2018

We installed this clutch in Jr's Golf over his Christmas break... very happy with it. I would prefer it to be un-assembled but I'll definitely get it again for the next one I do.

Between the smoother pedal and less vibration (the old DMF was siezed) he initially thought something was wrong with it. LOL

hey_allen · Jan 12, 2018

Is there any particular reason to replace the clutch fork, like it's prone to failure?

I'm getting ready to replace my clutch due to increased power, and had planned to do the throw out bearing, as well as lubricating the pivot points. The whole arm being replaced wasn't on the list, though I'm definitely willing if it's a likely failure point.

Water4fire · Jan 12, 2018

You will be able to inspect it when your in there as sometimes the pivot pin will wear through the fork and you will need to replace. I have seen clutch forks worn straight through.

mjydrafter · Jan 12, 2018

hey_allen said:
Is there any particular reason to replace the clutch fork, like it's prone to failure?

I'm getting ready to replace my clutch due to increased power, and had planned to do the throw out bearing, as well as lubricating the pivot points. The whole arm being replaced wasn't on the list, though I'm definitely willing if it's a likely failure point.

The arm and pivot are not very much $, I replaced mine when I installed the Luk last year. IIRC the kit I got from IDParts included them.

UhOh · Jan 12, 2018

hey_allen said:
Is there any particular reason to replace the clutch fork, like it's prone to failure?

I'm getting ready to replace my clutch due to increased power, and had planned to do the throw out bearing, as well as lubricating the pivot points. The whole arm being replaced wasn't on the list, though I'm definitely willing if it's a likely failure point.

Everything is prone to failure. With the amount of work it takes to replace a failed fork (yes, they're known to fail- there was a thread recently on this) it's a no-brainer to install a new one (and the pivot) when you're doing a clutch. The added costs are minuscule.

KCTDI · Jan 13, 2018

UhOh said:
Everything is prone to failure. With the amount of work it takes to replace a failed fork (yes, they're known to fail- there was a thread recently on this) it's a no-brainer to install a new one (and the pivot) when you're doing a clutch. The added costs are minuscule.

Concur.
And a slightly bent used one is deceiving without a new one to compare with.

LuK clutch and oil pan question

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