Pinout for build date 9/1998 ALH TDI NB

1999 NB ALH TDI build date 9/98
Car started throwing CEL light once in a while and when it did the power would decrease until I turned off the car and restarted. SInce then when I start the car no check engine light for about one minute, then the check engine light appears. I have replaced the vacuum line including the line going to the vacuum booster(which had a hole) verified the EGR and Anti shuttler valve functioned, by visual observation while idle and shut down. I have checked the continuity of the wires going to the N239 valve and it was good, only one had continuity, but the voltage was only 6.5v. I checked the wires from the valve to where they enter the large wire bundle behind the airbox. From what I have read I need to check the ground at the ECM or ECU and the N239 voltage at the pin. The pin for the N239 is T121/81 it is Violet/gray in color, but I don't know the pinout for my ECU. If it is in Bentleys please tell me where. And the best I can figure the ground is T121/86 brown/yellow
My questions are;
1) where can i get my pin out ALH build 09/98
2) I am supposed to check while powered up, how, do I have to put a pin through the wire or slide along the wire to the connector ?
3) Where i the cars ECU grounded, in the engine or dash frame.
These are my errors
01282 - Intake Manifold Flap Change-Over Valve (N239): Open/Short to Ground
16764/P0380/000869 - Glow Plug/Heater (Q6) Circuit: Malfunction
01483 - Control Circuit for Rear Lid Remote Unlocking
00953 - Interior Light Time Limit: Unknown Switch Condition
00943 - Heated Exterior Mirror Driver Side (Z4)
0094400944 - Heated Exterior Mirror Passenger Side (Z5)

Check the wires to the solenoid mounted to the bracket on the intake manifold. That is what controls the anti-shudder valve. Your solenoid is likely broken and flopping around loose, and the wires to it are rubbed through somewhere, usually right up top (which is kind of back and "hidden" on the NB, but you can get to them).

Glow plugs are easy, just check each one with a Ohm test... see if one is different than the others. You may also need a new harness, or "bridge" spliced in, if it is broken. If you find more than one plug bad, I'd just replace all of them.

Thank you, I did check the wires from the solenoid to the point where they combine with the other wires behind the air box. The solenoid works I have watched it close as the car turns off. I am experiencing low voltage at the connector for the solenoid, 6.5v, which is why I am looking for a pin out for my car. Also when checking the wire I wiggled the wires to see if they were solid and without breaks. If you can think of anything else please say so, this is a big learning experience.

jimjay said:

Thank you, I did check the wires from the solenoid to the point where they combine with the other wires behind the air box. The solenoid works I have watched it close as the car turns off. I am experiencing low voltage at the connector for the solenoid, 6.5v, which is why I am looking for a pin out for my car

Click to expand...

At the solenoid the yellow wire gets poser from fuse 34. Should be full 12 volts.
The Red wire is controlled by the ECU in the plenum.

Maybe check the grounds in the plenum as well as the one under the battery tray, and at the trans.
If the ground under the battery tray is bad anything that grounds to the body is bad.

You do have a few codes, cleaning the grounds can't hurt.

wonneber said:

At the solenoid the yellow wire gets poser from fuse 34. Should be full 12 volts.
The Red wire is controlled by the ECU in the plenum.
Maybe check the grounds in the plenum as well as the one under the battery tray, and at the trans.
If the ground under the battery tray is bad anything that grounds to the body is bad.
You do have a few codes, cleaning the grounds can't hurt.

Click to expand...

Hi, Thank you for your response, The yellow wire has 12+ volts, the other wire has 6.5v, which is the one going to the ECU. The solenoid has 35 ohms resistance, the spec is 25-45 ohms.

I will look at the grounds, the one in the plenum you are referring to is that the one under the dash close to the ECU ?

Thank you

jimjay said:

Hi, Thank you for your response, The yellow wire has 12+ volts, the other wire has 6.5v, which is the one going to the ECU. The solenoid has 35 ohms resistance, the spec is 25-45 ohms.
I will look at the grounds, the one in the plenum you are referring to is that the one under the dash close to the ECU ?
Thank you

Click to expand...

The 6.5v should be a pulsed signal from the ECU.
Probably OK.

The solenoid coil is ok.
There may be rust or crud in the internal vacuum passage.
I sprayed wd40 in the ports and it did seem to help.
I did replace it shortly after that.

VW has a TSB about the actuator rusting internally and the rust may get sucked into the vacuum system.