Bmw 2.4td

Awesome! Soooo subscribing to this...

haha that Lincoln is CLEAN! but $2800 is a bit much for an engine donor I`ll wait for it to rust before I msg the guy up...I sure as heck can build another 2.4TD

had a bit of a snag - the new water pump from the gasser is a little different than the one we pulled from the diesel - the thermostat housing doesn't fit with it...of course we discovered that after my dad installed it...duh shoulda compared them before...anyways - going to try and see if the gasser thermostat housing can be used instead so it fits with the pump. If not I`ll have to chase down a pump from Europe or something - doubt there's anything available around here...

in the mean time we got moving on the transmission...I need the engine crane so we have to drop this in the car ASAP...we're going to try for next weekend so my dad can fab up his engine mounts (damn it I was really hoping the 528s would work)...

735:





We gotta take that back plate off and move it over to the transmission we pulled from the Lincoln which has it's own output shaft



basically gotta change these two over from:



to:



looks pretty straight forward...once that's done we're mounting the torque converter and bolting up to the engine

yeah - the 4hp22 will need to come apart completely for me to swap those two shafts out...the output shaft is actually part of 4th gear...for now we'll drop the engine in with the gasser transmission just to get things rolling and we`ll pick up a spare at the junker so my dad can sort them out over the winter when he has more spare time...

started finishing this thing up...a few possible turbo configurations:

Holset He211w - needs to sit underneath the manifold to use the OEM exhaust flange - it's tight with the oil filter housing...





the He221w however fits really nice on top







lots of room...tried to bolt up an Hx35w I have kicking around and that will NOT work - lol...can't fit even with the compressor housing off

This will be awesome when it is done! Keep up the great work!

I owned 2 324td wagons in belgium, feel free to PM me with any questions. I think i still have a pdf with m21 service stuff in it somewhere too. if I were you i'd order diesel specific parts from the dealer (e28 524td) or maybe a worldpac vendor.


glw the swap!


still sad you removed an m30 though

sweet...thanks for the offer...

honestly - there's not much left to be done right now...timing belt, tensioner, oil filter and the correct water pump are all here now so the engine is pretty much done...I gotta find a timing procedure to just finish that...

currently the transmission is a bit of an issue though...I think last weekend we decided to go ahead and take apart the diesel 4hp-22 and swap it over to the correct housings...it's a little extra work but it means the final result will be properly geared for the engine...

In other news I went ahead and bought me a garage attached to a houseso there may be a slight delay in working on the BMW but I still hope we`ll get this started before the end of August...I want this car to move under its own power before this winter hits

nitec said:

sweet...thanks for the offer...

honestly - there's not much left to be done right now...timing belt, tensioner, oil filter and the correct water pump are all here now so the engine is pretty much done...I gotta find a timing procedure to just finish that...

Click to expand...

when I did mine I *gasp* marked the old one and transferred it over it to the new belt. IIRC the correct way involves locking own the f/w & pump with a dowel. There is the BMW diesel section of the haynes manual floating around somehere

This is what my 2.4 BMW diesel engine came in.
www.vixenrv.org
http://stannerair.hypermart.net/Vixenhome.htm

been slightly delayed with this project since my dad decided he had to do a headgasket on his Sprinter...

what a f*cking nightmare! stupid black death and all...finally got the head out yesterday after a 2 month struggle to get injector #1...ended up breaking the valve cover and pulling the head with the injector in it...started disassembling everything to send it to the shop for a cleanup and ended up stripping the #1 glow plug...*** is wrong with cylinder #1...







I couldn't find anything wrong with the headgasket but my dad insists it had to be changed...honestly though - not sure what VW is doing wrong but the intake on the CDI was squeeky clean after 300+k km of hard work...compare that to my BEW which was almost 50% clogged up with soot...looks like the head is going in for new seals and a nice cleanup and the turbo is going off for a rebuild...we`ll see how far we want to take this...

on to the BMW - decided that with a wedding coming up we won't have the time to devote on taking apart the transmission to swap over the 4th gear...it's a pain in the butt...so we swapped the bellhousing from the Lincoln over to the 735 transmission and bolted everything up with the new seals etc...engine is ready to go in...if all goes to plan I`ll have the engine in the car within 2 weeks and after that it will be up to my dad to finish his mounts and get it started...I want this engine running before we close shop for the winter so we can start next spring with a working car...this will be fun...





only thing left to do is chase down a vacuum diagram so I can make sure everything is hooked up right (about 4 vacuum lines running around - very simple) and a wiring diagram so I can interface it with the car electronics...in retrospect this could have taken a much much shorter time than it did - we were procrastinating a bit

Any updates on this? Fun project!

she's coming...had to complete a few engine swaps over the past few months but this one is next in line I`m very excited to get the car off the jacks

If you end up using a ZF 4HP22 transmission I strongly suggest you educate yourself on the burning up clutches these transmissions have, in neutral they still engage clutches and "creep", if you have your foot on the brake it burns up the transmission clutches fast and end of transmission. They were sold in Volvo's, Peugeot's, BMW's and all had TSB's about NOT emission testing these cars just letting go. There was a design change years later (or update) when rebuilding them, it might have been replaced already but you never know!
Cool project, love those old diesels. Hope you manage to finish it soon, let us know if it will be visible somewhere local!

just when you guys thought I forgot about this

I managed to convince my dad to cut the silly cross beam on the front of the BMW...I let him do it himself so he doesn't cry too much



look at this...



holy room Batman...



some discussion on the engine mounts...we got the tranny bolted down and the driveshaft in so the engine is fixed at the back and sits well...that oil filter is a little tight around the engine mount but we`ll figure it out



lots of room around the engine



and there she sits...



next time we touch this we`ll finish the engine mounts and start her up...the best thing about this engine is it's all mechanical so as long as feed it some fuel she`ll run

mounts are done...have to finish the following to get her started:

- engine oil (oil filter housing, turbo lines etc)
- transmission oil (cooler, lines etc)
- radiator/coolant

all the other little bits and pieces etc...will try to start her up this week...

hmm finished the fuel and coolant stuff...I`m sort of stuck on the auto tranny - I've honestly never started a car up with an auto tranny before - what's required to make sure I don't damage the transmission? I recon I have to fill it with oil? is there some special "priming procedure"?

Fill it with the appropriate oil and check the level. Looks like it has a standard dipstick for checking the level. Most autos are checked when the engine is running and the transmission in neutral.

all right...I was well geared up to start her today but ran into a few annoying issues...apparently I've "misplaced" the turbo oil feed line so I've now spent two days ravaging through the garage to try and located it...on top of that the engine oil filter is made of unobtanium and is nowhere to be found...BMW wants to ship me one from Germany for the cost of $50+ and Ford laughed at me and said it's order on request and takes 2-4 weeks to get one in....thankfully RockAuto stepped up to the plate with their $11 filters needless to say I ordered 5 just in case...

that's about it to "start" the engine...then the fun begins - here's the list of issues

- oil dipstick location seems to be right underneath the engine mount so I either have to cut it up or relocate the dipstick which may not work
- alternator and hydraulic pump have no way of being mounted...I have the BMW and Lincoln versions of both but neither will really work...the BMW stuff doesn't work on the engine (not bolt in anyways) and the Lincoln stuff doesn't work with the chassis...I`ll have to fab up new mounts for them and while I'm at it I think I'll convert the brakes to vacuum and find a smaller alternator to work with this - the original one is HUGE
- vacuum / electrical for engine - seems quite straight forward...I already deleted the EGR valve so a few of the valves will disappear...the rest just drives the glow plugs
- fuel supply - the 735 has an underbody external fuel pump and filter but I suspect the pressure will be too high...the 24TD uses a small electrical in line lift pump so that's easy to wire in if I remove the one in the trunk
- oil cooler - gotta replace the clunky Lincoln monstrosity with something a little leaner
- intercooler - obviously...

fun times

turbo's in and the vac lines are done...I finished the EGR delete although I`ll keep the valve in for now until I upgrade the turbo and get the intercooler in...I`m thinking Hx30 to make use of the T3 manifold...we`ll see what happens...

oil is in, turbo's primed, coolant is in and pump is turning...

I started off using the gasser lift pump and got her cranking yesterday...I've got smoke coming out of the turbo but no ignition...it looks like the IP needs priming but for some reason I can't get it to raise the pressure at the injectors...after reading up a bit it would appear perhaps high pressure from the lift pump is screwing up with the advance etc. so today I'll swap in the diesel lift pump and undo all the injector feed lines to bleed any left over air...

I definitely didn't glow it that's for sure...never considered glowing it when it's hot outside - definitely worth the try...

I wasn't getting any fuel in the injector return line so I'm fairly certain the pump needs to be primed first...I`ll glow it after and hopefully she'll pop up...took quite a bit of cranking to get oil up to the turbo as well - there's a LOT of oil to be moved through the cooler and the filter...

we've got ignition...

https://youtu.be/cZSesp-bDIw

QuickTD - pretty sure I owe you a beer I got the glow on and she fired up after the fifth-sixth try...I swapped in the original low pressure lifter pump just in case...the idle needs to be adjusted - she dies if I let go of the throttle...also there's no fuel coming out of the injector return line so that's a little questionable...

so what's left to do:

- wire in starter, glow plugs, fuel pump
- hook up driveshaft and install new tranny dampers
- make a bracket for the hydraulic pimp and alternator
- change the oil cooler with something more manageable

hopefully I'll have the first drive before the snow flies on...

all right...any thoughts?

https://youtu.be/EjCllWLT9Z0

I've got the glow plugs all wired in and working, the EGR is gutted and I sorted all the vacuum lines to the VE pump...

now we haven't touched the pump or the timing when we did all the gaskets etc but I don't remember it smoking like this when it was in the Lincoln...on the other hand my dad seems to think it had no power in the Lincoln at all...so any thoughts about the smoke? pump adjustment? perhaps the fuel screw is not set right? timing? some sort of enrichment acting up?

I can get it to stay running if I play with the throttle, however if I let go it dies right away...there's a "sweet" spot before it dies where I can hold it but it has a rough idle with RPMs going up and down...

anyways - everything else is lined up so if I get the engine running semi-properly I can get it up on the trailer and retire it for this year

any help from the VE gurus is appreciated...I have zero experience with this pump

I doubt it has anything to do with the fuel setting screw, because that normally doesn't make the engine run rough, but it does increase the idle RPM so it might be worth it to turn the max fuel screw 1/8-1/4 turn in (clockwise to reduce fueling) to see what happens. Keep track of any adjustments on that screw!

You could check the IP static timing with a dial indicator if you find out what it should be set at.
Timing too retarded = more smoke and less power than normal.

are you sure the vacuum setup is correct?
Is there a cold start/ fast idle actuator- electric/coolant/vacuum?
is there a manual stop lever and is it fully returning to "run"?

have ANY of the screws been adjusted at all?

the short answer is no - I'm not sure of any of it...here's the setup I have right now:

- glow plug controller is wired in correctly and does a pre-heat with key on and heat with start on
- EGR and EGR controller is all removed
- only vacuum line left over goes from the manifold to the top of the LDA
- there is a cold start actuator (or at least what I think you mean) - there's a lever that has a coolant line at the back of it and a rod that goes to the front...it looks to have an adjustment screw for what appears to be idle but it doesn't seem to be restrictive at the moment...I also can't seem to understand how that works at all - it doesn't seem to be attached to the pump in any way that would adjust its work...I stopped at it yesterday so I`ll take a few pics today and see if I can make adjustments
- the manual stop lever seems to move unobstructed...I`ll see if there's any adjustment on it

I haven't done any fuel or timing adjustments on the engine...the only thing I've done is remove the fuel lines and put them back in when I did the intake gasket...I suppose it's possible there's still air in the system so I think I'll pop the intake off today and bleed the system again just in case...

With all that smoke, you are getting fuel - If it were my car, I would loosen the pump mounting bolts and advance the timing manually while someone cranks the engine.

Windex said:

With all that smoke, you are getting fuel - If it were my car, I would loosen the pump mounting bolts and advance the timing manually while someone cranks the engine.

Click to expand...

what he said.

A word of causion, the IP movement needed to adjust the timing is very small.

It can also be adjusted with the engine idling, may be easier?

But if it ran well in the lincoln it shouldn't need tinkering. After a few attempts to start there will be some unburnt fuel in the manifold and turbo, maybe that can cause some smoke at first too. I'm sure that engine will put out quite a puff of smoke on start up even when everything is ok, it's an old IDI afterall.

Sorry if it's somewhere in the thread, have you verified the mechanical timing on the engine since the timing belt was replaced?

As above, a little movement on the pump goes a long way. However, with the injector lines rigidly mounted, you won't be able to move the pump all that far anyway.

hah...It's a little sad that I had to go back through the thread to remember if I changed the timing belt or not...so now that I have done that and it appears we've replaced the belt, it's really sounding like this may be timing related...I know we followed the timing procedure in the manual but we've never verified it to be correct so the fact that it ran well in the Lincoln is completely irrelevant...

I guess checking timing is priority #1 right now...