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Go Back   TDIClub Forums > TDI Model Specific Discussions Areas > VW MKVII-Mk7 Golf family including Golf Wagon (~ 2015 +)

VW MKVII-Mk7 Golf family including Golf Wagon (~ 2015 +) Discussions area for the Mk7 (2015+) Golf and Golf Wagon TDIs based on the MQB (Modularer Querbaukasten) platform.

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Old November 27th, 2019, 05:58   #1
Beeah
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Default New Clutch Sticking Issues(Within Last Few Days)

Just started to notice my clutch pedal starting to feel odd. It started with not giving me full pressure feeling when depressed. Over the last few days it has gotten WAY worse to the point that 30 minutes ago while driving to work, I could not get the car into gear. I had to pump the clutch a few times to finally (what I assume) build enough pressure to get it to work. Then after that it starts to work again but it's only using the last 10% of the pedal stroke to actually engage/disengage.

I've only had the car for about 9 months now so not that familiar with her. I've done a tiny bit of searching and reading so far. Do the clutch and brakes share the same fluid system?

Any help is HUGELY appreciated as there is a decent chance I'll be stranded at work today.
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Old November 27th, 2019, 07:00   #2
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Sounds to me like the clutch is not properly bled.
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Old November 27th, 2019, 07:19   #3
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To go from working to almost leaving me stranded in a week I think something has failed or is leaking. It would be surprising if you could just bleed something that worked perfectly since the car was assembled would fix it right?

I'm about to go out and take a look under the hood. Any tips or simple things to check?
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Old November 27th, 2019, 07:56   #4
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Check the fluid level. Yes clutch and brakes share the same reservoir and if you get close to the MIN line your brakes can work just fine but the clutch will starve as the entry to it is above the MIN line. The clutch bleed valve is directly under the airbox, I'd check that it's not leaking and the valve is closed. The valve is a little different than a normal bleed valve in that only 1/4 turn is required to bleed.
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Old November 27th, 2019, 08:24   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adjat84th View Post
Check the fluid level. Yes clutch and brakes share the same reservoir and if you get close to the MIN line your brakes can work just fine but the clutch will starve as the entry to it is above the MIN line. The clutch bleed valve is directly under the airbox, I'd check that it's not leaking and the valve is closed. The valve is a little different than a normal bleed valve in that only 1/4 turn is required to bleed.
I just limped it up to the local auto shop and bought a small bottle of fluid. It took almost the entire small bottle. I pumped it a few times and it returned to normal, but only for a little bit. It's back to being to almost the floor.

So it was def low, but somehow not low enough to throw a light. And the brakes feel good. I'll pull the air box and double check the bleed valve as you suggested.

I'm def screwed being the day before a holiday, so my soonest I could even get it to someone would be Monday anyway. /sigh

Thanks for the help guys!
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Old November 27th, 2019, 22:48   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beeah View Post
I just limped it up to the local auto shop and bought a small bottle of fluid. It took almost the entire small bottle. I pumped it a few times and it returned to normal, but only for a little bit. It's back to being to almost the floor.
So it was def low, but somehow not low enough to throw a light. And the brakes feel good. I'll pull the air box and double check the bleed valve as you suggested.
I'm def screwed being the day before a holiday, so my soonest I could even get it to someone would be Monday anyway. /sigh
Thanks for the help guys!
I just bled this today on my car. Check out...

https://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=482344

and...

https://www.autoinstruct.com.au/manu...v=7516fd43adaa

If you have a power bleeder, it is easy. If not, you can have a partner pump the clutch for you. See...

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=481818

It shouldn't take you more than an hour or two.
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Old November 28th, 2019, 12:39   #7
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When you pull the airbag inspect the whole clutch line for leaks. Also check if any fluid is leaking out from the bellhousing below.
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Old December 3rd, 2019, 10:56   #8
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Friend and I bled the system, got a TON of air and foamy fluid out. But, it never really stopped being soft. I had a quality bleeder kit setup and we pulled a vacuum on the bleeder valve. Poured about a full half liter of fluid though the system but continuously got bubbles, so it's gotta be an air leak.

We tested the vacuum bleed setup by simple turning the bleed valve off and pulling vacuum, the connection was solid.

Now the issue is which side of the bleeder valve is it coming from, the pedal side, or the clutch side? Or could it be the bleeder valve itself?
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Old December 4th, 2019, 17:24   #9
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You could try the clutch bleeder block here. Not a cheap option, but it does help greatly with future bleedings and pedal feel is greatly improved as this eliminates the "delay valve" in the stock unit.

Though, if it were truly an air leak, would you not also have a fluid leak?
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Old December 5th, 2019, 09:54   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adjat84th View Post
Though, if it were truly an air leak, would you not also have a fluid leak?
We've been thinking the same thing, but no leaks of any kind have been found anywhere. I took it to the expert shop I bought the car from yesterday an it was a good 30 mile drive. I jumped in the car, had to pump up the clutch as it was almost to the floor but driving it to the shop I didn't have any issues of any kind...

When it first started I had to keep pumping the thing almost nonstop to keep the clutch functional. So now it seems to be intermittent.
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Old December 5th, 2019, 20:17   #11
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It’s got to be either the master or the slave. I would think it’s easier to start with the master as you would need to pull the trans to do the slave(tob).
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