ahu from mk3 to B3

Steve Addy · Feb 11, 2015

Not much new here, rear beam axle bushings arrived, the press tool has been ordered but might take a while to get. After venturing out into the mud yesterday looking for a replacement rear proportioning valve only to find all the candidates frozen to the ground still, so getting that will have to wait a while. We're back down in the single digits for a couple days so I've moved on to cleaning up the mess that is my garage, throwing out junk parts and getting the engine work going.

Pulled the flywheel today and started cleaning that, glad to see that it won't need to be replaced, looks pretty good.

High of 14 tomorrow and windy, probably spend the day getting my engine harness work done and making some decisions about cooling system stuff. I have too many half-finished elements of this project, I have to get some parts done and under control otherwise it'll drive me nuts.

Steve

Zed. · Feb 12, 2015

what's up with the engine harness? or do you mean fitting / tape & tidying?

Rich.

Steve Addy · Feb 12, 2015

Zed. said:
what's up with the engine harness? or do you mean fitting / tape & tidying?

Rich.

Yes, since I'm using the Mk3 JB ECU and the Mk3 harness that came with it I had to weed a lot of stuff out of the harness that isn't used on the B3/4 cars where they do separate harnesses for stuff like headlights etc. On the Mk3 that stuff is all rolled into the engine harness.

Since this is going into a B3 there wasn't any need to keep extra wiring in the engine / ECU harness so I took out what I didn't need.

Now that I've traced all the wires and figured out everything I needed to I can go back and rewrap it all and get it fixed up for install. I'll use the B4 harness I have to wrap it so all the connectors come out of the harness where they should and the harness fits into the B3 like it ought to. Besides, it was originally wrapped in that gooey cloth tape anyway which does nothing but make a mess.

Steve

Zed. · Feb 12, 2015

Steve Addy said:
Yes, since I'm using the Mk3 JB ECU and the Mk3 harness that came with it I had to weed a lot of stuff out of the harness that isn't used on the B3/4 cars where they do separate harnesses for stuff like headlights etc. On the Mk3 that stuff is all rolled into the engine harness.
Since this is going into a B3 there wasn't any need to keep extra wiring in the engine / ECU harness so I took out what I didn't need.
Now that I've traced all the wires and figured out everything I needed to I can go back and rewrap it all and get it fixed up for install. I'll use the B4 harness I have to wrap it so all the connectors come out of the harness where they should and the harness fits into the B3 like it ought to. Besides, it was originally wrapped in that gooey cloth tape anyway which does nothing but make a mess.
Steve

know the feeling with the gooey stuff, I have a mk3 loom in my B3

if you want the mfa to work you need to add a wire for the fuel consumption signal, between (I think I remember

) pin 9?? on the ecu to a connector (by fusebox) on the dash clocks cluster loom maybe a brown connector?? will have a dig for my notes

also, the oil temp needs to connect (again from cluster loom???) to the big round connector on the engine, may also need a temp sender in the oilfilter housing, there probably is a hex plug fitted to blank?
summint like that anyway

Rich.

EDIT.

black plug has purple/white wire - Fuel consumption signal

Fuel Consumption signal purple/white -> pin9 ECU

This is connected to pin 9 of the ECU and is a PWM signal which is generated by the ECU based on the amount of fuel injected at any given instance. It is used in conjunction with the VSS (vehicle speed signal) by the high-end instrument clusters to calculate Miles-Per-Gallon. This wire can be omitted if you do not have an MFA (multifunction display) cluster, (or do not intend to install one in the future). When separating the lighting harness from the engine one you will need to cut the wires that lead to pins 2 and 3 of this connector. Note: this signal/connector may be missing in some donor vehicles, so don't be too-surprised if you can't find it!

(found on net)

Additional ECU pin out info:

1.9TDI 68-Pin ECU Pinout (p/ns: 028 906 02X xx)

Copied from a 1997 Golf TDI diagram – note: all pins are included below, but not necessarily used

Pin Color Module des Description Connected to

1 BR 31 Ground connection in wiring harness 31 (156)
2 SW/GN J285 Engine Speed Signal (tachometer/DOP) G1/12 U1/6 T28/10
3 N/C
4 BR/GE N146 Metering Adjuster F26 T8/6
5 BR/GE N146 Metering Adjuster F26 T8/6
6 SW/BL J359 Low Heat Output Relay 1
7 GR/GN G149 Modulating Piston Displacement Sensor T 8/5
8 WS G28 Engine Speed Sensor 3/2
9 LI/WS MFA Fuel Consumption Signal (For Multifunction Display)
10 N/C
11 BL G80 Needle Lift Sensor 2/2
12 GR G80 Needle Lift Sensor 2/1
13 BR/RO G70 Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor 6/6
14 BL/BR G62 Engine Temperature Sensor T24/20 4/3
15 WS/BL G79 Throttle Position Sensor T6/1
16 BL/SW F22 0.3 Bar Oil Pressure Switch T24/1
17 WS/RO F36 Clutch Switch Pin 2 Clutch Switch
18 GE/RO Auto Gearbox T8a/4
19 RO/GN G70 Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor 6/1
20 WS/GE F47 Brake Pedal Switch Pin1 Brake Switch
21 N/C
22 N/C
23 SW/GE J317 Power Supply Relay F25 G 1/10
24 BR 31 Ground connection in wiring harness 156 31
25 BR/WS N18 EGR Vacuum Regulator Solendoid Valve 2/2
26 SW/BR J360 High Heat Output Relay 3
27 N/C
28 BR/GR J246 AC Relay Coupling N/2
29 LI/SW G149 Modulating Piston Displacement Sensor T8/1
30 GR/WS J52 Glow Plug Relay T10/7
31 BL/GE Auto Gearbox T8a/7
32 GR Auto Gearbox T8a/6
33 BR/BL 31 Ground connection (sensor ground) 220 31
34 BL/GR E45 Cruise Control Switch T4/2
35 RO E45 Cruise Control Switch T4/3
36 N/C
37 GN/GR F38 AC Ambient Temperature Switch
38 BLK 15 12V ignition G1/4 15
39 RO/SW 31 Alternator T2/1 31
40 N/C
41 N/C
42 SW/LI J317 ECU Switched Ground for 109 Relay 85 G1/7
43 BL/WS VSS Vehicle Speed Signal wire (VSS) TV13 W/1 U2/2 T28/7
44 SW/RO M9 Left Brake Light TV11 W/4 K/4 E/3
45 SW/GE J317 Power Supply Relay F25 G1/10 6/87
46 BR 156 Ground connection 156 31
47 RO/BL N75 Wastegate Bypass Regulator Valve 2/1
48 BL/GN K29 Glow Plug Indicator Light G 2/5
49 BR/GE N146 Metering Adjuster F26 T8/6
50 GE/BL J52 Glow Plug Relay G1/3 3/85
51 BR/SW N108 Cold Start Injector T24/13 T3/2
52 WS/GN G149 Modulating Piston Displacement Sensor T8/3
53 WS/SW N109 Fuel Cut Off Valve T24/12 T3/1
54 N/C
55 GR/RO G79 Throttle Position Sensor T6/3
56 N/C
57 GE/GN G79 Throttle Position Sensor T6/2
58 N/C
59 BL/SW Auto Gearbox T10/8
60 GE/WS K83 Malfunction Light (US only) 1/1
61 GR/WS OBD Immo Box 1995-> vehicles or OBD II connector (pre 1995 vehicles) OBD T16/7
62 GN/WS G79 Throttle Position Sensor T6/5
63 GE/SW G81 Fuel Temperature Sender T8/7
64 BL/GE G72 Intake Manifold Temperature Sender 2/1
65 GR/BL G79 Throttle Position Sensor T6/4
66 SW/WS E45 Cruise Control Switch T4/4
67 N/C
68 SW/GE J317 109' Sensor Supply Relay F25 G1/10 6/87
KEY : WS white
SW black
RO red
BR brown
GN green
BL blue
GR grey
LI purple
GE yellow

hope this helps? (also, here is a link to UKPASSATS with some rambling about my car http://www.ukpassats.co.uk/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=73557&start=25 )
Rich.

Steve Addy · Feb 12, 2015

Zed. said:
know the feeling with the gooey stuff, I have a mk3 loom in my B3
if you want the mfa to work you need to add a wire for the fuel consumption signal, between (I think I remember ) pin 9?? on the ecu to a connector (by fusebox) on the dash clocks cluster loom maybe a brown connector?? will have a dig for my notes
also, the oil temp needs to connect (again from cluster loom???) to the big round connector on the engine, may also need a temp sender in the oilfilter housing, there probably is a hex plug fitted to blank?
summint like that anyway

Rich.

EDIT.

black plug has purple/white wire - Fuel consumption signal

Fuel Consumption signal purple/white -> pin9 ECU

(found on net)

hope this helps? (also, here is a link to UKPASSATS with some rambling about my car http://www.ukpassats.co.uk/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=73557&start=25 )
Rich.

Yeah, I've toyed with the idea of adding the fuel consumption wire into the loom but I don't have a separate harness to steal it from at the moment. If the weather improves I might wander out to the JY and take one out of the VR6 cars. I've already added the wire into the cluster harness so that part is there.

That list of pinouts looks a lot like mine but in my spreadsheet I have a comparison between B4 and Mk3 since there are some differences between the two. I actually didn't mind going through it all, makes it much easier later on to do the diagnostic work if you have a good background in what's there.

Thanks for the link to your car.

Steve

Steve Addy · Feb 14, 2015

Parts arrived from the JY a couple days ago, the inter cooler and 'pipes' and I say pipes loosely here because the JY promised to send all of them so in typical fashion (since I wasn't called to come a pick it all up) they sent only two of the six I specifically said I wanted. I'm waiting on a call back from them about the mess.

Further, it was obvious from the condition of the inter cooler that it had been open to the elements and had water inside...which also made me a little PO'd since I asked about this before and was assured that it was in the car and not exposed to the elements. Further, it was also clear that it had been forcibly removed from the car and not unbolted, both the tabs that should have been parallel to the side casings were bent and damage and on the inner mount the caged nut from the other side of the mount had been ripped away. We will have a discussion about all of this when he calls me back first part of the week.

At any rate, the most important thing, the fuel tank, has not yet arrived so I don't know where it is or how they shipped it, but it's not here yet...so my work on the rear axle is still on hold at the moment.

So I've started on the motor work, rear main seal replacement (done now) and anything else that might leak will be replaced. I'm even considering replacing the cylinder head gasket just to make sure everything in there is good and ok, and so I won't have to do it once it's in the car (hopefully).

Pulled the HB and noticed this on the front lower timing cover. Obviously at some point a bolt fell down in there and got jammed. I assume that someone went in to get it since it's gone now.

Engine is up on the lift now, new teflon rear main seal has been installed and oil pan has been pulled off along with old gasket. With new rear main seal installed I can now put it on the engine stand and do the rest of the work I need to do.

Would like to install the new pan gasket and new oil pan but I'll probably wait until I'm sure everything inside is ok. Also, noticed a production date on the existing tensioner of 2012 so this engine got a fairly recent timing belt before I bought it last spring.

All for now...not much but at least it's something.

Steve

swapmeat · Feb 15, 2015

What are you wrapping the harness back up with? Lowes sells this 3m rubber tape with no real adhesive that kinda sticks to itself.i used it on my dash harness cus it has some thickness to add durability to harness.

Steve Addy · Feb 15, 2015

swapmeat said:
What are you wrapping the harness back up with? Lowes sells this 3m rubber tape with no real adhesive that kinda sticks to itself.i used it on my dash harness cus it has some thickness to add durability to harness.

That's a good idea, I hadn't considered what I was going to use, just planned on regular electrical tape but that can become gooey over time too so I'd kind of been putting it off. I'll probably get some of that 3M stuff you found at Lowes, I was worried that the adhesive from the tape might cause the wiring insulation to degrade.

Out in the engine bay I'll probably just tape the wires every so often and use the flexi plastic conduit as protection, at least I'd planned on that since I have quite a bit of it.

Steve

vanbcguy · Feb 15, 2015

You can make some pretty nice joins with the flexible plastic stuff and electrical tape. As much as possible with mine I did heat shrink and then the plastic stuff, works well as long as you think about it before attaching connectors or whatever.

The fabric tape that VW used doesn't have much adhesive really. Electrical tape is WAY worse, though I certainly used enough of it. Hopefully I never have to open my harness up again...

swapmeat · Feb 15, 2015

I'm headed there later for some hardware I'll post a pic. I did mine in electrical tape b4 I found this stuff. Now that my drivetrain is out for major control arm mount and strut tower/rain tray repair,I'm thinking of wrapping the bay harness as well...and then maybe just heat shrink the ends for insurance against it NOT sticking to itself.

swapmeat · Feb 15, 2015

that's it hard to tell what it looks like from pic but I like it

Steve Addy · Feb 15, 2015

Thanks for posting that up, I'll be going there tomorrow to get some.

Steve

swapmeat · Feb 16, 2015

No problem. You might look at it funny when you first open it, like I did but I was really happy with it as a cheap alternative

Steve Addy · Feb 16, 2015

Did some more dismantling today, the motor was pretty oily and I knew the intake would be a sludgy mess, and it was.

I'd looked into the intake before and it didn't look too bad, but down at the cylinder head it was starting to get restricted.

Then I pulled the valve cover and found this....

Wasn't too happy about that although I have a used cam I could steal from another cylinder head although I'll probably replace it and the lifters with new.

I have to assume this was a condensation issue from running for too short of a time and then being parked, maybe for an extended period of time.

At any rate, my indecision about whether to pull the cylinder head or not has now been resolved. In order to verify that everything is ok and that this little issue has been isolated to the camshaft I'll just go ahead and replace the gasket.

Steve

Steve Addy · Feb 17, 2015

More progress today. Pulled the camshaft and happy to find that there was no additional damage from the corrosion. The lifters look to be in excellent condition with no detectable pattern of wear so I would guess they're all rotating in their bores properly. I might still replace them, especially if I spring for a new camshaft.

It was also D-day for deciding on pulling the head so even though I was confident that the cylinder head was ok I decided to pull it and replace the gasket. It ended up probably not needing to be done but it's off now so that's a moot point. Hopefully this replacement won't start a chain reaction of head gasket woes, I'm often the opinion that often the first one is the best possible (new clean parts) so unless it's absolutely critical and evident that there's a problem I tend to leave these things alone. Besides, I hate the cleanup and prep getting ready for the new one. I always question whether I've done enough.

This is what was found just after the head was removed.

And this was after the initial cleaning was done.

I'm thinking I'll probably drop the pistons out and wipe the bores down to remove any junk that might have fallen in there, then do everything up with assembly lube and move on to cleaning the head and getting the one stuck injector out.

Head gasket and other important stuff should be here in a week, I want this back together pronto so I can get the engine reassembled, seals replaced and move on to getting mated to the trans and ready for install.

Fuel tank isn't here yet, I don't know where that's gotten off to but I'll have to call the JY tomorrow and get an update about what they did with it. Also, still waiting to hear from the JY about the cooler pipes that didn't arrive. They said give them a few days and that was last Wednesday...I think it's been long enough.

Steve

Steve

vanbcguy · Feb 17, 2015

New followers with an old cam is OK, old followers with a new cam is bad mojo. They wear together,the followers become very slightly dished over time and will cause abnormal wear on a fresh cam. They're cheap anyhow.

Steve Addy · Feb 17, 2015

vanbcguy said:
New followers with an old cam is OK, old followers with a new cam is bad mojo. They wear together,the followers become very slightly dished over time and will cause abnormal wear on a fresh cam. They're cheap anyhow.

Thanks! That's the order I couldn't remember.

My intention at this point is to steal the camshaft out of my spare cylinder head and use that so I could either replace them or not, it shouldn't make all that much difference. Since I have enough new lifters around here for at least two engines (I think) I'll probably just replace them...which also begs the question of whether to just replace the cam with a new one too.

As much as I hate to throw out more money I need to order some stuff from VW anyway, and they actually have the best price for the cam that I can find...oddly enough.

Steve

Steve Addy · Feb 22, 2015

Progress has been slowed a little, temps have been cold and it takes so much fuel to bring the space up to temp that it can get kind of nasty to work in there from the fumes. Also, I've been trying to resolve an issue with the JY who sent me a snow filled inter cooler and 'some' pipes, when I specifically said I needed them all. After receiving only two of the six pipes the JY says the missing four have magically vanished...poof! What they sent is going back.

The same JY has been sitting on my fuel tank for almost two weeks now but never bothered to inform me of that. I kept expecting it to be delivered (waiting actually) and needless to say it wasn't even shipped. Also, resolving a few issues on the Jetta too that aren't done quite yet either.

At any rate the block and pistons are ready for the new gasket. The cylinder head hasn't been cleaned yet, that will happen this week. Expecting parts order with the gasket sometime this week.

In the end decided that the pistons didn't need to come out, the bores were very good and after cleaning the head I wiped down the bores with ATF until all the residue from the cleaning was removed. Everything seems to be in good order too. Once the cylinder head is ready it'll be time to put the top back on. I should have the intermediate shaft o-ring and seal done by then and hopefully the front main seal done too.

After the final cleaning:

Steve Addy · Mar 6, 2015

Some updates, the fuel tank / sender arrived, looked to be in great shape but as I suspected there was no difference between the TDI tank and the original 16v tank except for the RUG restricter at the filler neck so I could have gotten by with the sender alone.

Also installed the new rear axle bushings

The weather here was great today and looks to be good through next weekend. It got to 56F today and I actually worked with the garage door open.

New tank is installed and the rear beam axle is back in the car although just hanging for now. New struts will go in tomorrow and I can begin finishing up the rear braking situation although I still need to have the Mk4 rear caliper hoses modified to work with the B3 beam axle. I'll have to go to a hydraulic hose shop to have that done.

Front engine crank seal replaced, intermediate shaft seal and o-ring replaced. Ready to reinstall the head but I've decided to take it to a machine shop to have it cleaned and new valve stem seals installed rather than do it myself. I think it's more efficient to do it that way.

Steve

Steve Addy · Mar 12, 2015

Progress on the rear suspension. I had some quarter inch stub axle spacers made for the rear beam axle. Never liked the fact that the rear track was so much narrower than the front.

Left rear is done but I noticed after everything was installed that the Mk4 caliper rides against the dust shield so it'll have to come off again and the dust shield trimmed down at the corners.

I need to get one more stub axle bolt to replace the one that broke off but came out. The other one that broke off had to be drilled out and even with an easy out it wouldn't come so I had to drill it completely. I'll have to locate a bolt long enough to be able to nut it from the backside.

Still trying to round up some parts to finish up the rear suspension. Need to get a brake pressure regulator from a non-ABS car (or Mk2) and then some different replacement brake hoses to make the jump off the beam axle to the chassis. The ones I ordered ended up being way too long for some reason.

Steve

Steve Addy · Mar 21, 2015

Things have slowed a little due to better weather and the need to do a lot of yard work and other things where I live.

So I had planned (and said) that the head was out to the shop and that would have been true except for a stuck injector. Well the injector is now finally out so it's ready to go in for cleaning and new valve stem seals. It'll go in after next Wednesday and hopefully won't be long until it's ready.

Picked up a few more parts at the JY. Needed a PS pump and carrier for the 4 cylinder engines and one PS line. Still hunting for a good rear brake proportioning valve but I hope to have that and a couple one-way valves for the fuel lines by the time I get back next Wednesday.

Rear suspension is done (finally) after pulling Mk4 calipers a second time and grinding off more of the square boss that can hit the rear beam axle tube.

Still haven't found a suitable rear sway bar link for the rear Mk2/3 sway bar but McMaster Carr has some possible options, I just need to measure what I have and get those ordered with some longer shock bolts too.

Buttoned everything up in back except for the rear sway bar stuff and rolled it outside so I could clean up the crap underneath.

Put the borbet wheels on the Jetta for now and will use the mille miglia wheels on the wagon for a while until I can budget for new tires. The rears are Tiger Paw and we had trouble getting one to balance, even after rotating on the rim twice, never buy Tiger Paws. I had these in the attic and just decided to run them to get them used and gone.

Steve

G60ING · Mar 22, 2015

Cool build/restoration

Steve Addy · Mar 23, 2015

G60ING said:
Cool build/restoration

Thanks, wish it was done but I'm a real slow poke.

I think now that better weather has arrived it'll be easier to get some real progress going. It also doesn't help that I get partially involved in several different aspects of the project at the same time but ends up in some ways being the best way to do stuff and not have to go back and do more later one...most times.

Steve

Steve Addy · Mar 26, 2015

No updates on work, I've been gone since last Sunday visiting family.

On my return trip though I managed to get several things I needed from a junked 91 Jetta diesel.

Fuel line one-way valves (supply and return)
rear brake pressure regulator (four port)

The fuel valves are fine but the regulator might be junk. It moves but not sure whether it will actually regulate anything. It was not leaking though and the brake system on the car was sealed, so it might be good.

Also snatched some other goodies but not for TDI engine, for the old MF hydro engine I've had apart for a decade plus. I need to make another trip back there after better weather decides to stick around.

Steve

Steve Addy · Mar 28, 2015

Finished installing the replacement four port rear brake force regulator yesterday, installed new rear brake lines from master to rear regulator today and bled the whole system. The car now has working brakes...but no engine yet...haha.

Tomorrow I'll check for any pedal softness and bleed again if necessary but for now at least the system looks like it doesn't have any leaks.

Steve

Steve Addy · Mar 30, 2015

More progress made.

Fuel lines are all buttoned up in the rear, these two one way valves are now installed where they should be.

Followed by finishing the fuel filler neck boot install and adding my new gas cap.

Also found a small leak in the braking system and hopefully have that resolved. It was small so braking pressure was never compromised.
Finished up with the new parking brake cables install and adjustment.

Rechecked front brake calipers to make sure there's no binding.

Installed power steering line for the newer design 4 cylinder power steering pump.

Steve

Steve Addy · Mar 31, 2015

Got the overhauled heater/evap housing installed today and started going through the interior wiring harnesses that are left, pulling out stuff that doesn't need to be there anymore or is going to be replaced with wiring from the Mk3 or the B4.

Hope to get the wiring all sorted in the next couple days before the cylinder head comes back from the machine shop. If I'm lucky I'll get that all done and finalized before it gets done. Weather has been really good so working in the drive has been great.

Steve

Steve Addy · Apr 3, 2015

Grabbed a few more bits from the JY a couple days ago, replacement radiator, 4 cyl serpentine AC compressor and more B4 wiring harness stuff. About the only thing left to get is a good condenser and maybe a bit more B4 wiring.

Cylinder head should be back next week sometime. I stopped in today and said if they weren't done with it to go ahead and resurface it to in addition to cleaning.

Steve

Steve Addy · Apr 13, 2015

Few minor updates

Cylinder head still at the machine shop, needed new exhaust valve guides, those were delivered today so perhaps by the end of the week it'll be done.

Been trying to finalize the engine wiring harness, and it's finally done. Trying to rationalize what the B4 wanted for engine wiring with what was required by the Mk3 ECU made it a bit of a challenge. Some of the wiring for the Mk3 happens outside the fuse box but doesn't on the B4 so it all had to be sorted out. The B4 had more wiring at the fuse box connections too so that had to be reconciled as well. Also, I added wiring in the harness for MFA function.

This should be fitted tomorrow, it's a little different from the B4 but I tried to match it up as close to the B4 harness as I could.

Steve

Steve Addy · Apr 20, 2015

More progress has been made.

The engine wiring harness and ECU are now installed, the cylinder head still isn't back from the shop so I'm still working on other things that I need to catch up on.

Insulated the back and upper portions of the rain tray cowl area. This is pretty much what they did on the Mk3 cars and since this car wasn't a diesel previously I'm trying to lessen the extent that noise can get to the cabin.

B4 Cabin filter assembly installed. Also picked up a B4 rain tray cover, which is just slightly different from the B3 since it has to accommodate the filter tray. B3 cars in the US never got a cabin filter.

Took the ECU apart just to check the MAP sensor hose (again) and glad I did, there was a tiny hole in it that I missed before that would have caused problems later. Now new hose installed.

Picked up a new wiper motor from a 00 Beetle. Lubricated wiper pivot mounts (dry) and went to install assembly and remembered that the plastic covers need to be in place when the assembly is bolted down, so that meant that it was time to move on to windshield.

I'd already cut it out a while back but never pulled it since it wasn't necessary yet. It didn't take much to get it out, was not original and wasn't installed very well. There were leaks at the bottom corners on both sides and above the steering wheel too. There might have been a leak above the passenger, rust at the flange suggests there was.

Some of the rust and lack of adhesion issues.

Typical flange area rust

I got lucky though, there were no holes into the pillar or anywhere on the flange. I ground down all the rust problems with a dremel and heavy cutting wheel and treated all the areas with rust converter. This will all get scuffed and primed with pinchweld primer before the new windshield is installed.

Ordering the urethane and primer today, I pulled the windshield last winter, it just needs to be prepped and then set once the materials are here.

Still working on the HL harness, need to build an adapter / sub-harness for it for the european headlights (with city lights) and to run the headlight power via relays.

Once all the electrical harnesses are in place I'll start adding in the AC pipes.

Steve

ahu from mk3 to B3

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