Did complete rebuild of engine, now won't start

I purchased a 98 Jetta with a broken t-belt (256K) I have since replaced all bearings, valves, cam, lifters.
It will not start now, it acts liked it a gasser that is flooded. I have all the timing tools and have doublechecked the TDC, cam position and pump locking pin. My question is I'm not sure where the pump was in the mechanical adjustment slots when everything was tensioned and installed. I've double checked the timing procedure and I did not find out if it mentions if it shold be in "mid-range" when setting the t-belt. I've moved the pump full forward and back with better results when the pump is pushed full towards the firewall.
Should I lock down the pump in mid-position and redo the timing? I do have access to a VAG-Com but I don't htink it will tell me anything until it actially is running...

thanks for the look...
dsldav

I would tell you to have someone crank the engine while you look at a few things.

1) Look at the clear line running from the fuel filter to the injectio pump. If you see a bunch of bubble you have a leak somewhere.

2) If you don't have any leaks then slowly loosen one of the injector lines while cranking the engine... If fuel begins to squirt out I would bet it's a timing issue.

If it's a timing issue loosen the pump bolts (can't remember exactly but I think it's 3 or 4) and rotate the pump (push the top of the pump towards the back of the car)

If this doesn't help make sure everything is timed right.

I'm betting if it's not a fuel problem you're having a timing issue.

-J

Thanks, I did bleed all the lines while cranking and filled the fuel filter also. Just have not had a chance yet to see what happens when you put the locking pin in for the injection pump: Does the pin put the pump"automaticly" in the mid adjustment range?

dsldav

In summary, a properly timed TDI is set up so that the cam is locked into TDC with the locking plate ( when it is, go ahead and break the cam pulley free from the camshaft), the IP is pinned into place and then the crank is placed so that the inscribed 0 ( NOT the welded bar ) on the flywheel is even with the arrow on the bellhousing. Tighten the adjuster and then rotate 2 revolutions after tightening the cam pulley down again, if everything is still exactly the same ( relock the cam and look at the crank TDC marking, you should be able to insert the pin in the IP rather easily. If the story is not like this, then you cannot guarantee that it is timed properly. When doing the timing like this, the IP is within the "start window" it could potentially be anywhere within the range and potentially slightly out but it will start providing all the other needs are met ( fuel at and within the injectors, compression, air supply, starter speed, IP receiving proper signals, etc. ).

Thanks

Got engine to run by using a aux fuel pump, now have another problem with the fuel cutoff not shutting off when turning the key off, I think it's relay 109... any other ideas?

thanks,
dsldav