Subframe bushings: TT vs stock

I never found a clear statement saying that the stock subframe bushings are softer or not the same as the TT ones. So I had a stock one out and took some pictures.



Definetly softer: it has so much more rubber compared to the TT ones. And it is a one piece.





I only have a pair of TT bushings, but as soon as I get the other pair I will put them in and let you guys know what is the difference.

Oh, here are the TT ones:

interesting my stock ones had a couple slits on each side where there was no material left, these look different that what I had.



found this on wingnut's how to you can kinda see on the upper and lower parts there is a void from where the piece was cut.

Those are lower control arm bushings, he is talking about subframe bushings.

neat again.

AH lol i read it wrong was off thinking about othr things

now the question is, is there a measurable difference here on the track?

I didn't put them in yet...and it does not look like I will have time to put them in this weekend. But next week/end I should be able to.
Impressions will be posted for sure.

IndigoBlueWagon has had them in his wagon for I think nearly a year now. Something to keep in mind. Those bushings alone will bump a car into the SCCA Street Modified class.

Have fun trying to replace those =P

david_594 said:

IndigoBlueWagon has had them in his wagon for I think nearly a year now. Something to keep in mind. Those bushings alone will bump a car into the SCCA Street Modified class.

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Even though they are an OEM part?

SuperJ said:

Even though they are an OEM part?

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For Street prepared you are allowed to replace any bushing as long as the new bushings contain no more metal than the ones you are replacing. Anything else and you are into street modified.

Justler said:

Have fun trying to replace those =P

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What do you mean?

You have to take off the 2 rear bolts and losen the front 2 bolts of the subframe. It is a 10-15 minutes job. I think the hardest part is to pry out the old ones - which is easier than the sway bar bushings.

So it all still stays under the car?

Aren't those stretch bolts and need/should be replaced?

They are stretch bolts and they "should" be replaced.
However I have reused the dog bone mount bolts 3 times now without issues. Each time I add a few pounds more in torqueing them.

Doc_Oc said:

They are stretch bolts and they "should" be replaced.
However I have reused the dog bone mount bolts 3 times now without issues. Each time I add a few pounds more in torqueing them.

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streeeeeeetchhhhhhhh

I know, I know. I'll swap them soon. I have another set of bolts, that was used only once so far

i have them on my golf and in combination with the suspension upgrades (koni FSD/GLI springs), theyre great! 2 thumbs up from me.

Doc_Oc said:

They are stretch bolts and they "should" be replaced.
However I have reused the dog bone mount bolts 3 times now without issues. Each time I add a few pounds more in torqueing them.

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I wouldn't recommend this... i've had 70mm bolt back out on me twice... Once with a reused bolt and once again with a supposedly new bolt. I recommend blue lock-titing them =) Having your engine swing front to back freely is not a fun thing. I lost a special coolant and power steering hose that way.

I also thought the subframe bushings had to be pressed it. I did not realize they just slid in.

The stock ones have to be pressed in. However, the force necesary to press them in very small. They have to be pressed from the top, so just squizing them between the chassis and the subframe will make them pop in.
The TT ones are 2 piece assamblies so there is no pressing required.

Any updates on the TT bushings

What are your imprssions of this mod? Worthwhile the few $$$?

Something else to add on to the list.

Could worn Suframe bushings be the cause of the creak I keep hearing in Traffic? I thought I was hearing it at the door pins, but I'm really not sure...

Unfortunately I didn't get a chance to put them in the car last weekedn as I hopped and it doesn't look like it's gonna happen for the next 3 weekend either.
The creacking can be heard from them but most likely is from the LCA bushings and from the sway bar bushings. Top strut mounts could be too.

Bringing this back as I just installed them.
Definitely easy to install.
Take off the skid plate and the side skirts (the side skirts can stay on the car but there are 2 screws that hold them to the sub frame, take those off)
Take off the pendulum mount (dog bone).
Take off the cover of the steering column (behind the break pedal) and take out the litle bolt that holds the steering shaft on the steering rack.
Second, take the 2 bolts that hold the down pipe support on the subframe.
Put a floor jack underneath the subframe.Take the 4 big bolts that hold the subframe to the chasis off. No fear. Take them off...nothing will drop. Start dropping the subframe. You will see that it is only it's wight that is supported by the jack. The subframe will drop 6 to 10" and will remain suspended in the hubs/knuckles.
Now to the bushings. Pry them out with a screw driver. You can only take them out upwards. Maybe it works downwards too, but I bet it will be 10 times harder.
Put the new ones in (one half has some grooves, I put those between the chassis and the subframe) and you don't need to press them in. They will be pressed by the bolt when you tighten it.
Put everything back and enjoy.
You might need an alignment since you moved the subframe. I am not that anal.
Since you are in there, and you dropped the subframe, you might as well do what I did: take the sway bar off. I don't recommend this if you don't have stiffer springs and a rear sway bar. At least twice as stiff as the stock ones.

How do the bushings feel: well, not a whole lot different. My stock ones were not worn either. But, they make at least the same difference the TT LCA bushings make over the stock ones. The steering is more responsive and more "coupled" with the car. The wheel hop is not reduced.

How does the lack of front sway bar feel? The car turns. Period.
You turn the steering wheel and expect the car to start oversteering. But the effect is the contrary. The car goes towards the inside of the corner. You have to corect mid corner but not to give more input but to loosen/unwind the steering wheel.

I drove another car without the sway bar and it felt way more loose and desarticulated than mine. I can only assume, but I think it was becouse of the stock subframe bushings. On my car rigth now, at high speeds there is almost no difference between with or without the sway bar. From what I saw with the other car, that was not the case.

So, overal conclusion is that unless you go all out on suspension mods...is not worth 2-3 hours and upwards of 200$ for them. Just my opinion.
Would I do it again? YES.

Let the questions flow