No Turbo boost at all

Hey there some help would be appreciated with this issue I’m having... first diesel I’ve ever owned and I’m just a young dude (21) with a basic knowledge of cars trying my best to start my vehicle is a 2004 Golf TDI 1.9 BEW (EGR deleted, and Malone stage 4 tune if that matters for this issue)

So I recently discovered the hard way that VW have very low oil pans... managed to gouge a pretty gnarly hole into mine on a nasty rock someone had put in the middle of the road. I’m not dumb I know to turn the vehicle off as soon as possible however I was on a uphill climb with no where to safely pull over so I continued to drive for another 60-100 seconds so I could get over this hill put it into neutral turn it off and coast to where I could park.... unfortunately for me the car turned off of its own accord just as I got over the ridge now the engine didn’t seize up cause it was still in gear and rolling (stopped that quick put it into neutral and coasted instead) parked saw the oil trail and got a tow back home. Spent the time getting the oil pan off...(and those two stupid bolts of you know what I’m talking about) replaces the old pan.... filled with oil started it up it ran fine and idled fine... let it sit for a hot minute idling (15-30 min) turned it off and replaced the oil again and the oil filter (in case of anything still in there ya know just trying to be safe) all looked golden...

took it off the jack stands got it on the road.... no boost at all... worst nightmare did I cook my turbo with no oil or??? Those were the thoughts going through my head.... got it back up on stands... took the intake side off the VNT-17 turbo off saw there was still oil coming out of the cold side and gently felt if it span freely (which it did) then I felt for any play.... which I couldn’t feel except the sliiiiightest amount which I’ve been told was normal (the play was from hot to cold side of the turbo not around and around) I wasn’t sure if my waste gate blew as well so I sucked on a vacuum hose leading to it and could hear it when idling change a little but nothing major.. tried moving the actuator cause I’ve heard they can go on this size turbo but it seemed fine also .... thought maybe the only thing left is if the hot side sheared leaving the cold side free which then I’d have to get some penetrative lube on the exhaust side and crack those bolts off to see if the hot side spins freely at all... otherwise I’m up ****s creek don’t know what to check next or how.... before anyone asks I didn’t hear any bad noises when the car turned itself off but that wasn’t from the lack of potential noises I just couldn’t hear it over my music while I was trying to navigate off to the side of the road... all in all though could really use some ideas/assistance!

Cheers thanks for reading my poorly formatted paragraphs
Josh

Good catch on shutting it down as soon as safely possible. You'd be surprised how often people will just moor on, even with the Christmas lights screaming at them from the gauge cluster.

I almost wonder if something got bumped while you were in there, externally of the engine. Like if a vacuum line is off or something. Do you have any codes? Hear any boost leaks? I don't know much about the BEW, but I know the tubro controls are similar to the ALH.

I may have bumped something while down there I’ll have to take a look tomorrow... can’t hear any boost leaks and I’ll be borrowing a friends OBDII scanner on Friday hopefully and check for any new codes by Saturday.... It runs but almost in a permanent limp mode so no turbo at all or boost... I thought I’d just cooked the turbo but it spins freely and the actuator isn’t gummed up or anything with oil still going into the turbo itself.

My daughter had a similar situation with her bug. The county had ground out the approach to a local bridge in preparation for replacing the approach apron. Probably about 4” deep and failed to mark it. She hit that approach at about 45, bent the dieselgeek skidplate and put a hairline crank in her oil pan.

No oil leak at first but coming home her oil light came on in the middle of a long older style bridge with no shoulder. She drove to the end and then pulled over and called me. I think the engine vibrations may have completed the crack caused by the impact.

Her turbo was cooked and later we found she had ruined a tire.

Get a skidplate if you plan on keeping that car. Replace the turbo and you should be good to go. I can’t emphasize enough don’t buy a cheap chinese eBay/amazon turbo. A turbo cartridge isn’t a good idea either. If you need to conserve funds get a used one from the for sale section on this forum, or Dutch Auto who also posts fairly regularly here.

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=434593&highlight=Dutch+auto

http://forums.tdiclub.com/forumdisplay.php?f=51

VNT 17

https://www.idparts.com/garrett-turbocharger-1700250440-p-761.html

KP 39 original equipment for you car.

https://www.idparts.com/borg-warner-kp39-turbocharger-038253019s-54399880024-p-1332.html

The actuator can be checked with a mity vac, if it proves to be bad.

https://www.idparts.com/smart-vane-actuator-7553030118-p-2054.html

The skid plate.

https://www.dieselgeek.com/collecti...nzer-plate-heavy-duty-aluminum-skid-plate-kit

Sounds good yeah when I was changing the oil pan I saw where a skid plate could just bolt on... is there any way to ensure this turbo is actually cooked before purchasing a whole new one just to realize it wasn’t the issue?

Yes, you should be checking the vacuum on your car, and what the actuator does when vacuum is applied. You need to get very familiar with the tdi search engine.

https://cse.google.com/cse?q=+&cx=018097697432185261444:_idbzjdyxdm

Search a lot to figure out what you need to know.
Search solving limp mode. And follow that thread.

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Also check and make sure all your boost hoses are still connected. The 04 and newer models have the clip system to secure the hoses. You may have knocked one loose.

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=179589
https://www.myturbodiesel.com/d2/1000q/multi/limp-mode-TDI-fix.htm

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I have vcds and some "know how" if you are in the Vancouver area and need a hand

So it feels like limp mode but I was informed by a friend who’s into TDI’s that even in limp mode I’d still read 5lbs of boost and be able to actually hear the turbo going, I can’t hear it at all even with throttle and I actually read -5lbs boost on ignition and then constant 0lbs on idle or with any throttle.. is this another sign it’s probably cooked? Would just make me wonder why the cold side still spins so freely and smoothly.

I’m actually in maple ridge not vancouver @CalvinM

The turbo can spin but still not produce power, so unfortunately that doesn't narrow things down for you much.

You really will be best served by some diagnostics with VCDS, specifically logging "boost actual" vs "boost requested" and of course a full scan for codes. The car often knows what's wrong, and there are many codes that don't immediately trip the Check Engine Light.

One last point: technically speaking "limp mode" means "I have normal power until I really press the engine hard, at which point all power goes away until I toggle the ignition". Not sure those are your exact symptoms (doesn't sound like you ever have normal power now?)... mentioning the distinction only to save you some confusion if you are researching threads strictly about limp mode itself.

Sounds like the vacuum line is disconnected, or the boost hose is.
What you're getting are induction aspiration numbers, not forced air numbers. So go through your vacuum lines and look at those, and inspect the boost hoses. Also inspect the actuator, it could be rusted through.

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Yeah I think I’ve come to the same conclusion waiting to borrow a scanner from a friend on Saturday... and good to know then I don’t have it in limp mode cause yeah no power from the get go... I’ll have another look at the vacuum lines but they seem okay

Get some vacuum line and start replacing them, again inspect the boost hoses also. Especially the lower hose to pipe connections.
Get a mighty vac to test the actuator with also.
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The boost hose that goes into the egr should sit straight and tight. That connection is easy to check and if it’s not right the common fix is a dog collar or new hose. It’s probably the most common place a connection failure occurs.

EGR delete on mine but I will try getting some new hose and replacing vacuum lines