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TDI Conversions Discussions on converting non TDIs into TDIS. More general items can be answered better in other sections. This is ideal for issues that don't have an overlap and are very special to swaping engines.

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Old May 16th, 2020, 15:22   #1
logs
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Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Here, there
Default Any good alternatives to Coty out there now?

Well it's been a long time, about 8 years ago I threw an ALH into Jeep YJ which was a great project but the wiring was just a nightmare for me and I'd like to go with a better mounting system this time around. I like Coty's Truss with the ability to use a Jeep AC and alternator with it. Also I REALLY love their plug and play wiring conversion but their stuff is so damn expensive. Is there anywhere else out there nowadays(was nothing back in the day). I see TDIconversions has something for the flywheel/trans which I'll most likely go with but any other options?

This time around it's a 05 2.0 BHW going into a 05 Rubi LJ.

Thanks

Here's my old YJ
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=371526
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Old May 16th, 2020, 15:31   #2
HiaceTDI
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Fast forward made my harness for my hiace swap and it was very easy for a non mechanic such as myself to install. And Dave is really good about tech support whenever I had a dumb question

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Old May 16th, 2020, 21:50   #3
xerootg
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I did a BHW into my XJ, which is somewhat similar to the same swap for a TJ.

Wiring: The BHW harness is insanely simple to 'thin out' in it's factory form, as it's built for a longitudinal engine bay. I'd highly recommend that you do your own harness given how simple the BHW harness really is. I eliminated the oil idiot switch, wired the alternator lamp wire into a switched circuit, and replaced the stupid vw dual coolant temperature sensor with a generic Bosch part that isn't as prone to failure. There's not much else to the VW harness. All that's left is a brake light normally open and normally closed switch signal, accelerator petal, vehicle speed signal, and clutch switch that someone else's harness isn't gonna give you anyway. Unlike the BEW/BRM there's no extra transmission wiring or anything like that, so it's really truely a standalone harness in OEM form.

Engine adapter/motor mounts: Randy of TDConversions is the man! He makes a remarkable adapter and his mounts kit is super straight forward too.

Flywheel/clutch: centerforce makes a 60lb flywheel. It's worth it's weight in gold, really smooths things out and gives you that slight additional mass to prevent stalling. A factory LuK clutch kit is more than adequate. People push huge ls power through the factory clutch without issue, so most TDI's will be fine.

Intercooling: I used frozen boost and put together an air-water setup. I've had some issues with mine, all due to mistakes I've made not their product. I'd recommend them in a heartbeat too. I used the factory intake manifold and 90 transition at the ASV for quite a while, been more than happy with that, but if you aren't going to run an ASV, I really like mecevo's race pipe. My ASV was sticking, and for less than the cost of a used one I just ran a race pipe. Since it's a manual I can stop a runaway by just using the clutch.

Accessories: I used about half of a BEW accessory mount and accessory pully. I chopped power steering mount off for frame interference, and relocated the pump to the factory ac compressor location, but maybe you won't have the same clearance issues. I put a off the shelf sanden sd7hd ac compressor on the other side of the block like a BHW would have, but only used one belt with the BEW tensioner. If I hadn't also put a York air compressor directly above the alternator, it would be perfect.

What would I change with this formula on my Jeep? Better intercooler coolant line routing, run the air compressor off the same serpentine belt as everything else. That's about it. It's a wonderful setup, and how things should have been from Toledo in 1998 when my Jeep was built. I've put over 10k on this thing since October, and it's a dream to drive.

I've documented my build fairly well if your interested, since the TJ and XJ actually have quite alot in common, and I'd happily answer any other questions if you have any. I included a very good wiring diagram in one of my posts in my build thread that is much easier to read than the factory BHW diagram if you decide to go that route.

At the end of the day, the coty stuff is nice cause it's a "kit" but if you've done one swap (you've done many from the sounds of it) you should be more than equipt to roll your own setup.

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Old May 23rd, 2020, 11:04   #4
logs
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xerootg View Post
I did a BHW into my XJ, which is somewhat similar to the same swap for a TJ.

Wiring: The BHW harness is insanely simple to 'thin out' in it's factory form, as it's built for a longitudinal engine bay. I'd highly recommend that you do your own harness given how simple the BHW harness really is. I eliminated the oil idiot switch, wired the alternator lamp wire into a switched circuit, and replaced the stupid vw dual coolant temperature sensor with a generic Bosch part that isn't as prone to failure. There's not much else to the VW harness. All that's left is a brake light normally open and normally closed switch signal, accelerator petal, vehicle speed signal, and clutch switch that someone else's harness isn't gonna give you anyway. Unlike the BEW/BRM there's no extra transmission wiring or anything like that, so it's really truely a standalone harness in OEM form.

Engine adapter/motor mounts: Randy of TDConversions is the man! He makes a remarkable adapter and his mounts kit is super straight forward too.

Flywheel/clutch: centerforce makes a 60lb flywheel. It's worth it's weight in gold, really smooths things out and gives you that slight additional mass to prevent stalling. A factory LuK clutch kit is more than adequate. People push huge ls power through the factory clutch without issue, so most TDI's will be fine.

Intercooling: I used frozen boost and put together an air-water setup. I've had some issues with mine, all due to mistakes I've made not their product. I'd recommend them in a heartbeat too. I used the factory intake manifold and 90 transition at the ASV for quite a while, been more than happy with that, but if you aren't going to run an ASV, I really like mecevo's race pipe. My ASV was sticking, and for less than the cost of a used one I just ran a race pipe. Since it's a manual I can stop a runaway by just using the clutch.

Accessories: I used about half of a BEW accessory mount and accessory pully. I chopped power steering mount off for frame interference, and relocated the pump to the factory ac compressor location, but maybe you won't have the same clearance issues. I put a off the shelf sanden sd7hd ac compressor on the other side of the block like a BHW would have, but only used one belt with the BEW tensioner. If I hadn't also put a York air compressor directly above the alternator, it would be perfect.

What would I change with this formula on my Jeep? Better intercooler coolant line routing, run the air compressor off the same serpentine belt as everything else. That's about it. It's a wonderful setup, and how things should have been from Toledo in 1998 when my Jeep was built. I've put over 10k on this thing since October, and it's a dream to drive.

I've documented my build fairly well if your interested, since the TJ and XJ actually have quite alot in common, and I'd happily answer any other questions if you have any. I included a very good wiring diagram in one of my posts in my build thread that is much easier to read than the factory BHW diagram if you decide to go that route.

At the end of the day, the coty stuff is nice cause it's a "kit" but if you've done one swap (you've done many from the sounds of it) you should be more than equipt to roll your own setup.

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
Thanks for the detailed response, I'll most definitely be getting the trans adapter from TDcoversions.

I'll have to take a look at the BHW's wiring harness, I just remember my ALH being a nightmare, taking hours to cut it down and still at the end of the day I had a whole mess of wiring harness I had to find a way to tuck and hide in the bay. This time around I wanted a much cleaner look and much less asspain. To me a grand is a small price to pay since I had so much time put into the last one. Also having it plug into the jeep cluster is great.

Do you have any pictures of your drive belt setup? I would like to see how it is all laid out.

I'm a pilot and am gone half the month, I was hoping to get everything ordered so everything was waiting for me when I got home and could get the swap down in a couple days. Last time I had all the time in the world to trail and error. I'm looking more for the easy route I guess and am willing to pay a little extra for that I guess.

Thanks again!

=jason-
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Old May 23rd, 2020, 17:51   #5
evguy1
 
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Yup, David at fastforward.ca is your man for wiring.
My JKU build is also close to what you are doing. http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread...&highlight=JKU
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Old May 23rd, 2020, 17:57   #6
Jack Eberson
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Join Date: Mar 2018
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Check out a place called Eurowise for your TDI wiring harness. All they need is your sensor connectors. Tell them what vehicle your putting it in and what gauges you want and its all custom. They made one for my Jeep and its super neat, clean and reasonably priced. Another plus is that they are located in the US.
Website is eurowise.com Dave is the one that does them. Pm me and Ill give you his phone number.
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Old May 23rd, 2020, 18:39   #7
logs
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evguy1 View Post
Yup, David at fastforward.ca is your man for wiring.
My JKU build is also close to what you are doing. http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread...&highlight=JKU
Which clutch did you end up using?
Also how did you work out the tach?

Last edited by logs; May 23rd, 2020 at 19:34.
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