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TDI Conversions Discussions on converting non TDIs into TDIS. More general items can be answered better in other sections. This is ideal for issues that don't have an overlap and are very special to swaping engines.

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Old May 28th, 2020, 01:34   #91
HoneyBadger
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Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: San Jose, CA
Fuel Economy: Always over 40
Default center console wiring, coolant routing

A heat wave came through so I decided to push off the welding until it cools down again. So I got to make some more progress on the truck.
1. Body mounts and spacers are installed. I did have to play with washers to get my driver door to shut without rubbing, but that's all done! Only took 2 weeks for a 4 hour job. That's never happened before...

2. I put the rats nest in behind my center console. Sorry I mean I wired up my center console switches and started verifying the ones that I could. I haven't fully figured out how I'm going to do the low coolant alarm, so I left that switch alone for now. It's about as pretty as it can get for trying to fit so many wires in such a small space.
The box on top of the fuse panel is a signal converter for the fuel level of the tank I'm adding. i could find a gauge to read the right resistance range, but not a sender. So it's hooked up between the sender and the switch and should work nicely with both gauges.

3. I did some fiddling with the coolant lines going to the heater core. They got real bent up in my adjusting it a little bit this way and a little bit the other way, but they turned out well enough. I'm curious how well they hold up to being cycled with the engine moving since they are pretty soft aluminum. But that's what the low coolant alarm is for right?
This is the best picture I could get to show both lines. You can see the one leads down to the back of the engine. The other goes down below the washer tank and up into the EGR cooler.

For making a bead on the tube so that the hose doesn't slide off. I found a video that showed me how to make them, so if you're interested here's the video and picture of the ones I made. I ground mine down a bit more so that they would fit in the 5/8" tube for the coolant and power steering lines. But they worked well on the intake tubing as well.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JVDU...&index=23&t=0s
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Old May 29th, 2020, 19:34   #92
HoneyBadger
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Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: San Jose, CA
Fuel Economy: Always over 40
Default Fluids in, LEDs glowing...

Today I did the maintenance things of flushing/bleeding the brakes and clutch. And while in there I noticed that I either have a leaking slave in the rear drum, or the axle seal is going. It wasn't a lot of dirty oil, but it was dirty and enough. So new axle seals and slave cylinders will be going on, along with new shoes and hardware.
I also started to check out my dash lights to make sure they all turn on. Well, they work too well. Some of the LEDs glow when off, so I need to figure out what's going on there. If any one has any ideas on what to check first I'd appreciate any suggestions. I mostly made the switch to LEDs for the glow plug light and check engine since they are being run by the ECU and I know it's not designed to sink the amount of current that the incandescent bulbs use.
I don't think a bad ground since that would cause the lights to never come on. I know some lights are switched on by being pulled to ground and others are supplied 12v. So I think I'm going to start by trying to figure out if there is a correlation and then to try and figure out why current is getting through.
You can see in this picture which lights are on, and which ones are glowing. The theft light is what I'm using for a glow plug light.
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Old May 31st, 2020, 21:27   #93
HoneyBadger
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Location: San Jose, CA
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Well I haven't figured out why I have so many glowing LEDs, but I did discover that my Check Engine light does not stay on long enough. It should be on until the engine is started, and then turn on. Mine will flash on for a fraction of a second and then turn off (glow).

I also noticed that I wired up the glow plug (theft) light "backwards". The light should be supplied power, but the ECU pulls it to ground. This would need a transistor and some wiring to change that around, but with the Check Engine light issue and this, I decided to order one from fastforward instead. My biggest reason for this is that I need the check engine light to work in order to smog and register my truck.

I also couldn't find a whole lot of concrete information out there about how the ECU controls these lights in terms of power usage available. And maybe I'm getting anxious to have this thing back on the road and driving it again. I think I'm planning to ditch the LED cluster lights that are glowing and just go back to the incandescents for the time being. I thought maybe the glow plug light was being back driven making the others glow, but removing the light does nothing, so there may just be a floating ground at the end of these lights. They were designed for the higher current load, so I'll save myself the head ache and leave it up to future me with a running truck to deal with it if I so desire.

I also got coolant hoses and exhaust tubing and a muffler ordered today so those should come in later this week or next and I'll start putting together a new exhaust.
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Old June 2nd, 2020, 23:37   #94
HoneyBadger
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Location: San Jose, CA
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Default

Well, the short cut I tried to take was a bust. They are out of stock until July, so I'll be making my own. Not a big deal, just another thing to do. I'll be using a PNP transistor to control my lights since the ECU pulls ground to turn on the lights. And a pull up resistor will keep the floating ground from being an issue.
Amazingly the exhaust tubing and muffle both already showed up today.
Nothing too exciting of an update, just putting my thoughts down. I'd read about Alchemist's circuit diagram for wiring up the lights, but when I found the diagram, it's not what I plan to do. I'm going to use a pull up instead of a pull down resistor, and my values will be different for my current needs, but this is the general idea for you guys.
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Old June 3rd, 2020, 22:10   #95
Alberta 7.3
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If the Pull up/down resistor idea doesn't work, you can always add a resistor in parallel with the LED, lots of times guys do that to correct "lamp out" errors since the computer, etc is looking for a lower level of resistance to ground than the LED provides.
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Old June 7th, 2020, 20:43   #96
HoneyBadger
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Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: San Jose, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alberta 7.3 View Post
If the Pull up/down resistor idea doesn't work, you can always add a resistor in parallel with the LED, lots of times guys do that to correct "lamp out" errors since the computer, etc is looking for a lower level of resistance to ground than the LED provides.
That's a good point, I hadn't thought about the ECU sensing the amount of current being drawn. That would explain why it shuts the check engine light off after a few seconds and not until the motor turns on. Thanks for mentioning that.

If I want to use the theft light for a glow plug light, the transistor will be required because it needs a 12v signal to turn on instead of the ground the ECU provides, but I can use a different extra light if this doesn't work out for me.
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Old June 8th, 2020, 22:02   #97
Alberta 7.3
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Location: Calgary, Alberta, Canada
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Depending on the current capacity of the ECU output, you could use it to drive a small relay to run the light, although a transistor would be a nicer option without the clicking.
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