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Go Back   TDIClub Forums > TDI Model Specific Discussions Areas > VW MKIV-A4 TDIs (VE and PD)

VW MKIV-A4 TDIs (VE and PD) This is a general discussion about A4/MkIV Jetta (99.5-~2005), Golf(99.5-2006), and New Beetle(98-2006). Both VE and PD engines are covered here.

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Old November 4th, 2014, 04:53   #1
50harleyrider
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Default ALH engine swap-things to do while it's out

Got what appears to be a good engine out of an '01 250k donor. I drove it home 350 miles and it has plenty of power. It's an automatic and some motor oil is dripping out of it-appears to be main seal. Here's my path forward and wanted comments/recommendations: Flywheel is coming off as it's going in a manual car so I plan a rear main seal, oil pan reseal, check rod bearings,check cam and lifters. Is there anything else I should do or look for? Maybe oil pump? TB is only 5k old and looks great but unfortunately I don't know if the water pump was replaced. Quarter of a million miles concerns me so I'm a little antsy. It didn't use any oil or coolant and the head gasket isn't seeping. Don't see any other seeps.

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Old November 4th, 2014, 05:04   #2
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At that mileage, if you are going to do the timing belt and water pump and oil pan reseal anyways, go ahead and replace the oil pump chain and tensioner. It is quick and easy at that point.

You'll just need a front crank seal, crank bolt (one-time use), the chain, and tensioner. It is right under the front sealing flange.

The rear crankshaft seal will be integral with the flange.

I'd not worry about the cam and lifters myself, beyond just a quick visual peak. And I certainly wouldn't mess with the actual oil pump itself, or any of the bearings.
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Old November 4th, 2014, 06:11   #3
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I second oilhammer. but just my .02 is for the price of a stock cam and lifters from idparts, id replace them. I mean the timing belt will already be loose and then you will not have any worries for at least 100k.
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Old November 4th, 2014, 06:50   #4
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Is there any way to inspect the water pump to see if there are any signs it may be fairly new? I hadn't planned on wp replacement if I didn't have to. I figured with only 5k on the new tb, wp was replaced then too. Maybe a risky assumption?
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Old November 4th, 2014, 07:19   #5
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A visual inspection of the WP is a good idea. A new pump 5K ago should still look pretty new. More than half of pumps I change during TB jobs are leaking at least a little through their weep hole.

Then again, with the engine out a TB job sure would be easy.

With the age and mileage, I would consider an IP pump reseal while it is out too. Even pumps that are not leaking fuel externally can leak air into the pump allowing a loss of prime in extreme cases.
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Old November 5th, 2014, 19:33   #6
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Thanks all-great advice.
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Old November 6th, 2014, 03:01   #7
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Im a fan of changing the motor mounts... while an engine is all the way out. Nice suddle improvement.
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Old November 6th, 2014, 17:52   #8
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I agree with Oilhammer about the bearings... if you inspect, you're going to need new bolts. Many ALH engines are pushing toward 500k miles with the OE rod bearings!

Only 5k miles on the water pump, I'd not worry about it at all! Of course, you are there, take a look for a leak!.......... seriously doubt you will see any evidence of a leak!

Once the engine is ready to set in, I'd pressure wash it!
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Old November 6th, 2014, 18:11   #9
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I'd do as much engine work as is possible BEFORE pulling it from the donor. That way you won't be searching for a swap related issue when it could be a replacement related issue. Keep it simple and get the replacement stuff done and sorted while it's still drivable as an auto, then you'll be able to eliminate any engine internal components when you sort out a post-swap issue.
Yeah, the rear main and other stuff should be done during the swap, but stuff at the other end of the crank should be done now before yanking it out.
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