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Fuels & Lubricants Discussion all about Fuels & Lubricants. synthetic oil, conventional oil, brands, change intervals, diesel grades, gelling and such debated items like that. Non TDI related postings will be moved or removed. This forum is NOT for the discussion of biodiesel and other alternative fuels.

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Old May 14th, 2020, 13:28   #16
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The thing about racing oil is, it usually doesn't have anywhere near the detergents that normal oil has, because in a racing application it's typically getting changed very frequently. If you want the best, I'd run Redline. Or Kendall. That's from a person who's running a 3 generation old family oil distribution business with a large fleet to maintain as well. Not someone who reads spec sheets that the marketing rep provided. But any synthetic API spec oil will work fine if you keep temps under control.


ALL API spec oil is different than it was a couple years ago. It's now CK4. Which is different than CJ4. Doesn't matter who's oil it is, the spec is different, so the blend is different. It's for the better.

Last edited by Kevinski4; May 14th, 2020 at 13:31.
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Old May 15th, 2020, 04:28   #17
Mongler98
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Race vs daily drive. Extreem HP or lawnmowers. There is only 1 difference.
Oil chance Interval.
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Old May 15th, 2020, 06:18   #18
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Originally Posted by Mongler98 View Post
Race vs daily drive. Extreem HP or lawnmowers. There is only 1 difference.
Oil chance Interval.

Ummm. No.
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Old May 15th, 2020, 06:36   #19
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What about racing lawnmowers.... ?
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Old May 15th, 2020, 16:53   #20
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Originally Posted by sloinker View Post
Here is the site to go to for oil questions:
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forum.../forum_summary

I would contact this place for oil if it was my car. Get what you are paying for:
https://www.hploil.com/motor-oil

I just spent over an hour on the HPL oil site and watched the embedded video from the MavTv program. The most important parts to me were the testimonials from the engine builders and racers.

I'm gonna try the 5w30 in my 06 Jetta BRM next time I do an OC. But not without a couple of emails to them with a couple of questions.

Man that stuff is E X P E N S I V E!!!


And, yes I have no life!!
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Old May 16th, 2020, 18:01   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oilhammer View Post
What about racing lawnmowers.... ?
I'm listening...
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Old May 17th, 2020, 17:50   #22
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Here you go. My cousin's racing lawnmower...

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Old May 18th, 2020, 07:02   #23
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They are a sight to see... a lot of fun to watch!
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Old May 25th, 2020, 17:38   #24
[486]
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Originally Posted by travis45 View Post
IBW, when you say the top number, do you mean first or second? The 5 in 5w40 or the 40?
the first number is tested at 32f, the second at 212f
the numbers are more or less just relative, not relating to any easily quantifiable unit

so at 32 degrees f, 0w50 is thinner than 10w30
but at 212f, they've changed places

also, when converted into more rational viscosity units like centistrokes or whatever, even a 0wXX oil at 32f is still significantly thicker than an XXw50 oil at 212
so you've no need to worry about going too thin with the "cold" number

ETA: for my input, I've been running t6 0w40 in the compound turbo golf, 18k miles since the last drain, but it has burnt 2 gallons in that time so that's as good as changing it IMO. Spun a filter on 8k ago, gonna do the next at 10-12 after having cut open the last one to find it looking fresh and clean

Last edited by [486]; May 25th, 2020 at 17:40.
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Old June 8th, 2020, 10:31   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevinski4 View Post
The thing about racing oil is, it usually doesn't have anywhere near the detergents that normal oil has, because in a racing application it's typically getting changed very frequently. If you want the best, I'd run Redline. Or Kendall. That's from a person who's running a 3 generation old family oil distribution business with a large fleet to maintain as well. Not someone who reads spec sheets that the marketing rep provided. But any synthetic API spec oil will work fine if you keep temps under control.


ALL API spec oil is different than it was a couple years ago. It's now CK4. Which is different than CJ4. Doesn't matter who's oil it is, the spec is different, so the blend is different. It's for the better.
Kendall doesn’t make their SHP Diesel 5w40 anymore. Or I should say Phillips 66 doesn’t currently market any synthetic diesel oils under the Kendall name. The Philipps 66 Triton ECT 5w40 is the same formula as Kendall SHP. Triton can be purchased at any P66 distributor, and the price for a 3 gallon case is very reasonable. There is also a 0w40 Arctic Formula which looks impressive however it’s only available in 55 gallon drums.

P66 also owns the Redline product. Their 15w40 is their only offering for a diesel specific oil which meets CK-4.
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Old June 8th, 2020, 10:48   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by [486] View Post
the first number is tested at 32f, the second at 212f
the numbers are more or less just relative, not relating to any easily quantifiable unit

so at 32 degrees f, 0w50 is thinner than 10w30
but at 212f, they've changed places

also, when converted into more rational viscosity units like centistrokes or whatever, even a 0wXX oil at 32f is still significantly thicker than an XXw50 oil at 212
so you've no need to worry about going too thin with the "cold" number

ETA: for my input, I've been running t6 0w40 in the compound turbo golf, 18k miles since the last drain, but it has burnt 2 gallons in that time so that's as good as changing it IMO. Spun a filter on 8k ago, gonna do the next at 10-12 after having cut open the last one to find it looking fresh and clean
That’s a misnomer. The first number in a multi-grade oil is the winter rating, which is why it superseded by the letter w. The better the pumpability of the oil when cold results in a lower numerical winter rating.

Winter ratings only make a significant difference in pumpability as you get to the more extreme lower temps as waxes in the base oils will begin to crystallize.

I have used both 10w30 and 10w40 oils that had better performance and were “thinner” at normal temps > 0F than the 5w30 and 5w40 oils with a similar HTHS viscosity. The 5w winter rating did not have an advantage until you approached the pumpability limit of the 10w oils in extreme cold. 10w and 15w oils typically have very few Viscosity Modifiers, low volatility and are shear stable than a comparable 5w or 0w oil with the same HTHS viscosity.
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Old June 18th, 2020, 19:22   #27
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Schaeffers ftw
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Old June 19th, 2020, 03:11   #28
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Ignore everyone. Bob is the Oil Guy is your authority. bobistheoilguy.com
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Old June 19th, 2020, 03:58   #29
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BITOG is a great source of info, but you'll find just as many opinions on which oils are best from oil obsessed weirdos there as you'll get here. An engine modified to output over double the factory rated power will give up the ghost from non lubricant related wear long before the oil ever becomes an issue.
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Old June 19th, 2020, 13:38   #30
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Don't use a 15w50,10w50 or20w50 in a water cooled engine, in a air cooled motorcycle or your lawn mower yes and break in oils are useless.
Run the heavy weight oil in that, I assume air cooled racing tractor pictured above ok.
Use a top quality 5w30 or 5w40 oil that the engine was called for wright from the start.
Why would anyone want to run such a heavy weight oil in a engine that called for a 5w30 oil or a 5w40 oil in the first place??
Hey its your engine, good luck

Last edited by FXDL; June 19th, 2020 at 13:51.
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