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VW MKV-A5 Golf/Jettas Discussions area for A5/MkV Jetta/Golf (2005/2006 PD and 2009 CR).

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Old June 13th, 2018, 09:46   #1
Nohlan_4
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Default BRM Turbo R&R how?

Based on this thread: http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=489086

Getting ready to complete this job. From what I have found on the forum already this seems liked the easist way out through the bottom.

Intercooler output to ASV pipe
- Intake adapter to the turbo
- VNT harness
- O2 sensor - I would cut a wrench short or get the VW tool
- Exhaust
- Oil return tube
- EGR cooler to EGR manifold
- EGR cooler; I left the coolant hoses attached so I didn't have to drain my coolant.


A couple questions though. Can I pinch the coolant lines off on the egr enough to keep the coolant in the car so I don't need to refill the system? Also the oil return line when I pull this off will I lose all the oil out of the engine? Should I drain the oil before I start? Does the axle need to come right out or just unbolt the flange, size of 12 point is 10mm?

Anything else I will need or should plan for?
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Old June 13th, 2018, 09:53   #2
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I take the whole subframe/steering assembly out, because it is easy (20 minutes) and makes everything SO much easier to deal with.

Then the catayst and right drive axle are easier to get out of the way. I never remove the oxygen sensor, just unplug it and drop it down and out with the catalyst.

The stove pipe is a little tricky to get loose, gotta hold your tongue just right. The charge air tube that snaps into the compressor housing can also be a bit finicky to get loose.

I'd consider the EGR cooler while you are in there.
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Old June 13th, 2018, 10:53   #3
Nohlan_4
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Originally Posted by oilhammer View Post
I take the whole subframe/steering assembly out, because it is easy (20 minutes) and makes everything SO much easier to deal with.
Then the catayst and right drive axle are easier to get out of the way. I never remove the oxygen sensor, just unplug it and drop it down and out with the catalyst.
The stove pipe is a little tricky to get loose, gotta hold your tongue just right. The charge air tube that snaps into the compressor housing can also be a bit finicky to get loose.
I'd consider the EGR cooler while you are in there.
Any how to's on taking the subframe out? I dont' really want to do that and have to get an alignment and all that afterward.

Need any special tools to pull the passenger side axle? Or just under the flange and pull it out basically?

What is the stove pipe?

EGR cooler is still in good condition so I'm going to fill the flapper rod void with high temp jb weld for an extra seal while i have it out.

Can the coolant lines be pinched enough to not drain the entire system getting the egr out?
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Old June 13th, 2018, 17:51   #4
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vcarshops.com
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Old June 14th, 2018, 09:55   #5
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vcarshops.com
What is that website about?
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Old June 17th, 2018, 16:43   #6
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Originally Posted by oilhammer View Post
I take the whole subframe/steering assembly out, because it is easy (20 minutes) and makes everything SO much easier to deal with.
Then the catayst and right drive axle are easier to get out of the way. I never remove the oxygen sensor, just unplug it and drop it down and out with the catalyst.
The stove pipe is a little tricky to get loose, gotta hold your tongue just right. The charge air tube that snaps into the compressor housing can also be a bit finicky to get loose.
I'd consider the EGR cooler while you are in there.

I would take the subframe middle out. You can leave the control arms in there so you don't have to get an alignment. Remove bolts that bolt the middle section to the control arms, steering rack, exhaust hanger and sway bar mounts. It will come right out. It will give you so much more room. I just replaced the DMF and egr cooler on a jetta i just bought and it made doing the egr cooler a lot easier. Also it will help with removing the exhaust down pipe.

Also removing the oil drain line is no big deal and you won't loose oil.
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Old June 18th, 2018, 09:37   #7
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There is no difference in alignment either way. You can get it back in wrong just as easy. If I get it wrong (rarely), I just realign it. No big deal.
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Old June 18th, 2018, 10:30   #8
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There is no difference in alignment either way. You can get it back in wrong just as easy. If I get it wrong (rarely), I just realign it. No big deal.
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Originally Posted by chaos2984 View Post
I would take the subframe middle out. You can leave the control arms in there so you don't have to get an alignment. Remove bolts that bolt the middle section to the control arms, steering rack, exhaust hanger and sway bar mounts. It will come right out. It will give you so much more room. I just replaced the DMF and egr cooler on a jetta i just bought and it made doing the egr cooler a lot easier. Also it will help with removing the exhaust down pipe.
Also removing the oil drain line is no big deal and you won't loose oil.
So for the subframe it just unbolts from where the control arms mount. What about the engine/trans mount thatís part of that assembly do I need to support that while taking it out?
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Old June 18th, 2018, 11:44   #9
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The roll mount just comes loose from the transmission case, it stays on the subframe. The engine/trans is still on its mounts that attach on either side of the car to the unibody rails.
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Old June 19th, 2018, 10:33   #10
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The roll mount just comes loose from the transmission case, it stays on the subframe. The engine/trans is still on its mounts that attach on either side of the car to the unibody rails.
I was able to get the turbo in and out easy without taking the sub frame out. The job wasnt actually hard at all just tedious as a lot of things need to come off. Took about 9 hrs.

I could not find the fuel pump fuse for some reason so I just pre lubed the turbo and bumped the engine 4 times so hopefully that got oil at least in the lines prior to first actual start.
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Old June 19th, 2018, 10:42   #11
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Originally Posted by Nohlan_4 View Post
I was able to get the turbo in and out easy without taking the sub frame out. The job wasnt actually hard at all just tedious as a lot of things need to come off. Took about 9 hrs.
I could not find the fuel pump fuse for some reason so I just pre lubed the turbo and bumped the engine 4 times so hopefully that got oil at least in the lines prior to first actual start.

ROFL..... yeah, THAT is not my definition of "easy".
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Old June 19th, 2018, 12:26   #12
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ROFL..... yeah, THAT is not my definition of "easy".
Well there were no hang ups the turbo went in past the sub frame easy I meant haha. Plus I did modify my egr in that amount of time as well.
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Old June 21st, 2018, 08:26   #13
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Default Bentley manual vs. actual practice?

Quote:
Originally Posted by oilhammer View Post
I take the whole subframe/steering assembly out, because it is easy (20 minutes) and makes everything SO much easier to deal with.

Then the catayst and right drive axle are easier to get out of the way. I never remove the oxygen sensor, just unplug it and drop it down and out with the catalyst.

The stove pipe is a little tricky to get loose, gotta hold your tongue just right. The charge air tube that snaps into the compressor housing can also be a bit finicky to get loose.

I'd consider the EGR cooler while you are in there.
Re the subframe removal recommendation: The Bentley manual lists most of the bolts involved here as needing to be replaced with new once they are removed. Do you think this is necessary? If not, what would the torque settings be without the +1/4 turn after? Also, I have no lift and this is being done with the car front on jack stands. About how much does the subframe part weigh?
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Old June 21st, 2018, 10:10   #14
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I lower the subframe/steering assembly on the trans jack, but you could just as easily use a floor jack, just have to keep it balanced is all. I can heft the whole thing off and back on to the jack by myself (because we only have one such jack, so sometimes someone else in the shop needs it while I am doing whatever it is I am doing that requires its removal).

I do not replace any bolts. I do take care not to just blindly blast them on though. Never been an issue. I also make sure to get them back how they were placement wise.
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Old June 22nd, 2018, 10:14   #15
Nohlan_4
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Originally Posted by sptsailing View Post
Re the subframe removal recommendation: The Bentley manual lists most of the bolts involved here as needing to be replaced with new once they are removed. Do you think this is necessary? If not, what would the torque settings be without the +1/4 turn after? Also, I have no lift and this is being done with the car front on jack stands. About how much does the subframe part weigh?
Not needed at all to remove. Take of passenger side axle and there is more than enough room. I wouldn't mess with the subframe, I had no issues with it in.
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