fuel filler door wont close/actuator not working

a couple weeks ago my fuel filler door would not close, and I still cannot close it. Everything looks ok visually. I also checked the opening actuator switch on the door and it doesn't seem to be doing anything (the usual sound is not there), perhaps because the door is not closed? the trunk release works fine and there are no other electrical problems that i know of. any ideas?

I had my latch freeze up once last year... The door wouldn't stay closed cuz the latch was frozen in the release position.. If ice isn't the problem, pull the latch mechanism apart and see if there's a pulse of power getting to it when you trigger the release switch. troubleshoot backwards from there. Pulling the door apart is a hassle though, so hopefully it is just ice, a bad connection at the solenoid, or maybe a broken return spring?

ROM

I believe there is a solinoid kind of device that controls the fuel door accessible behind the carpet inside the trunk. Mine failed under warrenty. Check for voltage while someone activates the switch on the door. You might be able to lubricate and get it to work if it has voltage. I remember reading some posts on this on this forum.

it seems that the actuator is stuck in the 'open' position. how do I access the solenoid and the latch mechanism to test for current? I tried lubing it as well. it'll be near 50 tomorrow, so that should be good to check on the ice possibility.

Be glad its stuck in the open position, otherwise you couldn't add fuel. Open the trunk, remove carpet from the side that the fuel door is on. This will expose the solinoid in question. Disconnect from harness and see if you get voltage when somebody activates the switch that pops open the fuel door. The solinoid might be shorted out. You can Ohm out that part to check for continuity. I assume you already checked the fuses. I think the solinoid cost is about $45, but could be wrong since mine was replaced under warrenty so I didn't have to buy it. It might just be stuck or have a bad return spring which allows the piston looking part to extend when not activated. Check the connection too. Normally, when activated the piston part retacts and allows the spring loaded door to pop open.