how to repair broken wire at T4 connector?

gcarl0

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 29, 2007
Location
medford, ma
TDI
'04 Golf PD, '11 335d
I have two broken wires (e.g., AC clutch wire) at the male T4 connector (1J0 973 824, see https://goo.gl/images/Rz4Rqq) just above my '04 PD starter motor.

This connector doesn't seem to have a secondary barrier, nor require any special tools? Can I just use long nose pliers to pull out the male blade terminals, add some new wire, then reinstall?



 

RexNICO

Veteran Member
Joined
Sep 17, 2013
Location
South West OH
TDI
2011 Tiguan, 2011 Q7
To remove the terminal ends you need to depress the small tabs (wings on the right/left sides if the rectangular piece of the terminal end) to slide them out the back.

I've had some luck using very small pointed tweezers. You need 3 hands, but push the wire in (to remove tension), insert the tweezers from the opposite side, gently pull the wire.

Hope that helps.
 

mjydrafter

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 12, 2015
Location
dsm, ia
TDI
2004 Jetta Wagon
I have had the best luck taking apart the terminals with a couple of straight pins. They are the only thing I have ever gotten to work. Put one in each hole above and below the terminal, and give the wire a quick yank back out of the terminal block.
 

JB05

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Oct 20, 2005
Location
Il.USA
TDI
Golf,2005,anthracite blue
Those insulators can be tricky because they will add extra resistance. I usually pull harder using the tool I bought from a member here.
 

gcarl0

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 29, 2007
Location
medford, ma
TDI
'04 Golf PD, '11 335d
Yep, same problem. Several broken wires right near that T4 connector. My failure is lack of A/C rather than ECM fault codes.

I think I'll try repairing the connector or installing a new one.

Looking into the connector, does the 'purple-pink' retainer(?) need to be removed before inserting straight pins above and below the terminal to be removed?


Can the wire seals be removed with a pick, as I my wires largely broke inside the wire seals (there is no wire to really pull on)?
 

mjydrafter

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 12, 2015
Location
dsm, ia
TDI
2004 Jetta Wagon
That purple thing should slide out one way (although looking at it I'm not 100% sure. I have never had to deal with the male end of one of those connectors, I always have to deal with the female ends:p), look for the opening. It locks the terminals in the holder. I'm not sure why they use that and the barbs on the terminals. If they just used that it would make things a lot easier.

Once that slider thing is out of the way the seal will pop out as well.

The individual wire seals come out of the plastic block with the wires, they are crimped on to the metal terminal. Very difficult to re-use if you have to solder close to them.
 

BobnOH

not-a-mechanic
Joined
May 29, 2004
Location
central Ohio
TDI
New Beetle 2003 manual
Assuming you have the kit linked in your first post. The purple piece holds the wire assembly in, it looks like you need to release using the small holes/slots. Then using small tweezers, 2 pins or (I used) bent paper clip to release the terminal from the block, it will come out easily once released. Special tools- crimper for small Tyco terminals, terminal release tool (paper clip). The right crimp tool will make a nice finish job. Try to borrow a good one versus purchasing from Harbor Freight/ebay/Amazon.
 

VE1.9

Veteran Member
Joined
Dec 29, 2012
Location
Chicago
TDI
2002 Jetta GLX 5spd
Yep, same problem. Several broken wires right near that T4 connector. My failure is lack of A/C rather than ECM fault codes.

I think I'll try repairing the connector or installing a new one.

Looking into the connector, does the 'purple-pink' retainer(?) need to be removed before inserting straight pins above and below the terminal to be removed?


Can the wire seals be removed with a pick, as I my wires largely broke inside the wire seals (there is no wire to really pull on)?
The purple piece does not need to be removed. It slides into an "unlocked" position. Looking at the picture you provided, the purple piece slides downwards (towards the bottom of your screen). You can see there is a small tab at the bottom on each side of the purple piece that keep it in the locked position. Using a small screwdriver, you can bend back one tab at a time and push the purple piece down to unlock the connector. I remember having to do this when replacing O2 sensors on one of my gasser VWs, they use the exact same plug.
 
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