Tdi 2.0 16v bkd manual gtb2060vklr build!

Let us know how this works for you once you get the mount installed!

Excellent work!!

Awesome job! I'm looking forward to some videos of this thing on a dyno or a pull going down the road.

timing belt

need tool and part for timing belt change

Hey all, so I have an issue that has been visible since my cars AWD conversion was completed. The turbo is leaking oil... Long story short, over the past few months I haven't driven the car much due to oil coming straight out of the exhaust causing the car to smoke heaps even on idle...
Last week I decided not to fix the current turbo, so I ordered the same turbo with the addition of a billet compressor wheel in it.

The depressing part in the AWD conversion was that since I didn't have enough time to finish the whole conversion myself, I asked assistance from a "friend" who owns a workshop, and the turbo had been leaking ever since he gave the car back to me. At first I would have thought that since he worked on the car (bled all oil lines, radiator lines, the works), he would be a bit extra careful and thoroughly check everything... and I'm sure he did, apart from this issue. If I knew that there was a leak I would have left my car longer at his workshop, investigate it with him and then work out a solution, i.e. fix turbo or buy new turbo and drop it in while most parts are still out. Now he asked me to pay for this issue again... This is what happens when you pay the full amount thinking that you got the best service ever (especially from someone you know for many years) when in fact it feels like the exact opposite.

Moving on, during the past few months I have added an aftermarket front bumper on my Jetta, which is a VW MK6 Golf R bumper converted to fit the VW MK5 platform.




I am currently in the process of partially rebuilding/strengthening my diesel gearbox and putting it back into my Jetta. I will be opening up the gearbox and adding a vw mk6 R AWD diff in it with ARP bolts, bronze sliders, 02Q 4th gear input shaft support and diff bearing and seal kit. My question here is, currently on my car I am using a VW MK5 R32 rear diff, will the diesel gearbox ratios be in conflict with the petrol rear diff?
Or is the mk5 Golf 4motion diesel rear diff the same as the mk5 r32 petrol rear diff?

If all goes well, the Jetta will be back on the road by the 17th of March 2017 because the next day I have a weekend event with Club Audi Victoria doing some endurance mountain runs.

That is looking nice> Too bad about the issues. Im sure you will sort them out.

Its possible the turbo failed during the awd conversion.
More likely that your friend made a small mistake but I can't see how he'd have done anything causing internal oil leak to the turbo.
Maybe seals dried up from not being used.

All the best with the project

Nice build!

jetta_mkV said:

I am currently in the process of partially rebuilding/strengthening my diesel gearbox and putting it back into my Jetta. I will be opening up the gearbox and adding a vw mk6 R AWD diff in it with ARP bolts, bronze sliders, 02Q 4th gear input shaft support and diff bearing and seal kit. My question here is, currently on my car I am using a VW MK5 R32 rear diff, will the diesel gearbox ratios be in conflict with the petrol rear diff?
Or is the mk5 Golf 4motion diesel rear diff the same as the mk5 r32 petrol rear diff?

Click to expand...

transfer box is splined to differential carrier (it's input is front wheel speed), and all transfer boxes are the same ratio, I believe

xjay1337 said:

Maybe seals dried up from not being used.

Click to expand...

turbo seals are steel rings, no drying up that can be done
Maybe a blocked oil drain? I know I'm going to need to reroute one of mine for the upcoming addition of the transfer box.

sorry to hear about the turbo woes, do you have a restrictor on the oil line? i have heard that too much oil pressure can blow seals... could be a problem from the original install. Hurry up and get some vids done

As was mentioned...sounds like a kinked or blocked oil return. Turbo may be fine. Apart from that...nice work. And dont worry about the diff..angle drive matched rear diff and you arent changing those.

Thank you all for your kind words. I'm not exactly sure what is wrong with the turbo and I cannot afford anymore downtime to test it and fix it seeing as this has wasted so much of my time and I've hardly driven my car since last year June/July.
Making me pay to pull everything out and back in again is ridiculous and selfish... Also no responsibility has been taken whatsoever... he was blaming everything apart from himself.

On the plus side, the new turbo is currently being assembled and I will be pulling apart my gearbox this weekend to swap over the parts. Hopefully my turbo arrives in the next week or two so I can begin the swap over. I cannot wait to use my car as a daily again!

Furthermore, good to hear that the rear diff doesn't require replacing.

Has anyone tested the new Michelin pilot Sport 4s tyres yet? I'm currently using the PSS tyres and I would not recommend any other tyre as an all rounder!

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

Gearbox modding time. I will be installing a 2nd hand AWD diff (out of a 02q golf mk6 R gearbox) using ARP bolts to secure it into place, and I will also be adding steel forks, bronze sliders and the 4th gear support bracket. The diff will be installed tomorrow and I am waiting for the steel forks to arrive sometime next week.

I was thinking of going for a LSD diff for the front, though it would defeat the purpose of my AWD conversion as most power would be back at the front wheels. I'm currently looking for a rear LSD diff which is compatible for a mk5 R32 rear diff. I believe this should allow for more power to be used at the rear wheels.



Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

jetta_mkV said:

Gearbox modding time. I will be installing a 2nd hand AWD diff (out of a 02q golf mk6 R gearbox) using ARP bolts to secure it into place, and I will also be adding steel forks, bronze sliders and the 4th gear support bracket. The diff will be installed tomorrow and I am waiting for the steel forks to arrive sometime next week.

I was thinking of going for a LSD diff for the front, though it would defeat the purpose of my AWD conversion as most power would be back at the front wheels. I'm currently looking for a rear LSD diff which is compatible for a mk5 R32 rear diff. I believe this should allow for more power to be used at the rear wheels.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

Click to expand...

What a lovely stack you have there.........

Hey all, so after 5 long days working on my car, taking it apart, running around multiple times to buy fittings/parts etc. and putting everything back together again, the car was started up at 3am Monday morning last week and hasn't smoked ever since!

With the help of a good friend of mine, we took the car apart and did the following:

Gearbox
- added a VW mk6 R AWD diff into my stock diesel gearbox (JLU) using stock mk6 R shim (perfect preload fitment)
- reinforced the input shaft with a solid shaft in it
- added steel selector forks 1st-2nd and 3rd-4th
- added the 4th gear input shaft bracket
- added bronze sliders on the selector forks
- added new diff bearing kit and seals
- ARP diff bolts were used for the diff
- Added 5th and 6th steel selector fork reinforcement kit

Turbo
- Installed a new billet compressor wheel
- Fixed the turbo flange and gasket
- Re-designed the turbo oil drain hose and fittings

I have attached some photos so you can look at my progress, hope you like my build! The turbo rubber seal on the compressor side was gone, the turbo oil drain hose wasn't done properly and the flange didn't have a flat surface after the welding was done... hence the oil leaking causing the car to smoke...
Big thanks to my friend who helped me throughout the 5 days!

Billet compressor wheel swap over
https://postimage.org/

Before
https://postimage.org/

After
https://postimage.org/

Steel forks
https://postimage.org/

VW MK6 R AWD diff with ARP bolts
https://postimage.org/

Turbo with billet comp wheel installed
https://postimage.org/

Solid shaft pushed into center hollow shaft
https://postimage.org/

4th gear input shaft bracket
https://postimage.org/

Turbo flange with new lines
https://postimage.org/

Oil drain custom fitting
https://postimage.org/

Did you balance the turbo after cw install or just put it on ?

Macradiators.com said:

Did you balance the turbo after cw install or just put it on ?

Click to expand...

The CHRA was already balanced when I received it. I just pulled the old CHRA out and installed the new one.

jetta_mkV said:

Solid shaft pushed into center hollow shaft
https://postimage.org/

Click to expand...

Please explain the reasoning behind this.

I have similar parts on my build but I have 3" exhaust, CP3 pump and water injection. Built everything from a friend who sold his A3 back to VW.

TDIMeister said:

Please explain the reasoning behind this.

Click to expand...

Hello TDIMeister, please correct me if I'm wrong. If a solid and hollow shaft have the same outside diameter, the solid shaft will have more torsional resistance than the hollow shaft. One of the reasons of the shaft being hollow is to reduce mass. For a hollow shaft to carry similar torsional loads, its diameter needs to be increased. Therefore, if you compare a solid and hollow shaft that weigh the same, then the hollow shaft should be stronger because of the increased OD (providing its not too thin in wall thickness, making it act in a slender manner).

This shaft insert is mainly to increase bending stiffness (to stop the gear sets from spreading). It will help with torsional rigidity a little though.
In my scenario, since I am aiming for very high torque figures and I have pulled apart my diesel gearbox to reinforce it, I didn't see any reason why I shouldn't reinforce the shaft too. Yes the shaft weighs more now, though the important thing about weight is its moment of inertia. The shaft has a small radius therefore low moment of inertia (in comparison, a flywheel has a large radius because it is designed to have a high moment of inertia; takes more energy to slow down/speed it up).

dieselherb1 said:

I have similar parts on my build but I have 3" exhaust, CP3 pump and water injection. Built everything from a friend who sold his A3 back to VW.

Click to expand...

Nice, do you have a link for your build so I can check it out?

Nice build!

I thought the input shaft support bracket wouldn't be needed if adding a solid insert instead?? I just recently had my gearbox apart, and sort of shaking my head now that I did not opt for the insert or support bracket. Aiming for north of 400ft-lbs with my build.

adjat84th said:

Nice build!

I thought the input shaft support bracket wouldn't be needed if adding a solid insert instead?? I just recently had my gearbox apart, and sort of shaking my head now that I did not opt for the insert or support bracket. Aiming for north of 400ft-lbs with my build.

Click to expand...

Thanks!
I believe that both solid input shaft insert and support bracket are beneficial (they have their own benefits) in my scenario of reaching high torque figures, reinforcement of the gearbox and reliability.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

Awesome

Great job you are doing. I am sure other MK5 owners like me appreciate all the information you are giving based on your learning experience. If this question has been asked, please excuse me. I missed it. How much modifications were needed to put the MK6 R front bumper on the MK5? I need to replace my stock one and I like what you have done. Great effort on your build.

morpwr said:

Great job you are doing. I am sure other MK5 owners like me appreciate all the information you are giving based on your learning experience. If this question has been asked, please excuse me. I missed it. How much modifications were needed to put the MK6 R front bumper on the MK5? I need to replace my stock one and I like what you have done. Great effort on your build.

Click to expand...

Thank you for your kind words
The bumper didn't come with any mounting holes, so you'll have to make the holes yourself. Furthermore, the mounting brackets in the middle of the bumper (that sit on the inside of the headlights) didn't line up, so that was modified too. Other than that, it was an easy fit by the panel beater.

your idea behind the solid shaft doesn't work at all. It will have little to no effect on your strength. Unless you happened to friction weld the two pieces to create a solid member. Also the hollow shaft is most likely induction hardened while your solid billet aluminum is not. Leaving most of the strength in the hollow shaft. This would be similar to putting a hot dog in a steel tube and bending it then saying the hot dog made it stronger. Technically yes but so minuscule that it makes no difference.

FraggyTDI said:

your idea behind the solid shaft doesn't work at all. It will have little to no effect on your strength. Unless you happened to friction weld the two pieces to create a solid member. Also the hollow shaft is most likely induction hardened while your solid billet aluminum is not. Leaving most of the strength in the hollow shaft. This would be similar to putting a hot dog in a steel tube and bending it then saying the hot dog made it stronger. Technically yes but so minuscule that it makes no difference.

Click to expand...

What he said. Plus I will add:

1. A heavy press or shrink fit causes the hollow part - the part the takes the most of the loading, to acquire residual surface tensile stresses. This decreases strength, not increases it;
2. Increased total mass of the shaft alters the modal behaviour (tends to shift eigenfrequencies lower). Whatever real effect this has on the present case will remain to be seen;
3. The strength of a shaft is related to its moment of inertia J, as you have correctly alluded to. But because J varies to radius raised to the fourth power, "solidifying" a hollow shaft doesn't do much to increase the strength relative to the increase in weight - that's why a hollow shaft so often and effectively used. Far more to be gained by increasing the OD than reducing the ID or making it solid, but of course, this is often not practical in a gearbox.

Anyway, respect for a cool build.

I figure it has to help with the bending forces, torsional force isn't really an issue, but the shafts certainly push apart and spit teeth off. The case probably allows more flex than the shafts themselves, but it's 15 minutes work to turn a slug to jam in there, why not?

That said, no idea where in the trans the shaft is in relation to where the common failure points are, so that all could go out the window. VW sure likes to add a lot of extra bearings and shafts in there to keep the length of the trans short enough to fit between the framerails.

Very,Very nice work keep it up ,and please share a video with acceleration :X Cheer's !

Thank you guys for your input, you make valid points too, though I believe that making these small changes will make a difference in the long run. It actually took more than 15 minutes to push the solid shaft in (more like a few hours) so the friction is very high, also welding the top end, almost turning it into a solid member (like what FraggyTDI mentioned).
Yes I will share something once it's all completed, hopefully soon!

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk