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VW MKIV-A4 TDIs (VE and PD) This is a general discussion about A4/MkIV Jetta (99.5-~2005), Golf(99.5-2006), and New Beetle(98-2006). Both VE and PD engines are covered here.

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Old September 16th, 2018, 14:25   #16
AndyBees
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Well, again this afternoon, lost use of the accelerator pedal.

Without all the boring details, the Brake Switch code come back too. BS = flashing GP light ad the dead or inoperable accelerator is a CEL, of course, both have codes.

Deleting "codes" with the Scan Gauge out on the road isn't always helpful. Scan Gauge doesn't always read/reflect the DTC for the inoperable brake switch.

Anyway, although I did have a new (used to me) accelerator pedal to function a few days ago, I believe there is a "connection" to the bad brake switch intermitting failures. I do know if the brake switch cruise side is open, the accelerator will not function. Seems I read somewhere that the two separate brake contacts in the single brake switch must operate perfectly simultaneously.

So, when this deluge of rain from Florence is gone, I'll install a new brake switch and see what happens.
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Old September 16th, 2018, 18:58   #17
Seatman
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Not sure the clutch pedal switch would have any effect other than prevent the cruise from working?

The brake switch is usually two in one with only a single plunger, I've never come across any accelerator issues with a bad switch, just no brake lights or cruise.

Could it maybe be a bad earth?

I had the no pedal issue ages ago on the seat cordoba, ended up being water in the ecu but I could still drive everywhere at 30mph lol
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Old September 16th, 2018, 19:12   #18
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So, when this deluge of rain from Florence is gone, I'll install a new brake switch and see what happens.
Makes sense

drag the brakes and the stock ECU shuts off power
there is a way to fix it in the binary, just search for "brake boosting" or something similar on ecuconnections
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Old September 16th, 2018, 19:48   #19
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Well, for what it is worth, on my very first road test (August, 2012), about 3 miles from my house the Accelerator pedal went dead and the idle defaulted to about 1100 RPMs. Too long ago to remember what the DTCs were.

Anyway, someone inquired if I had used lead solder on the wiring splices ... Yes! So, they said the ECU doesn't like the resistance changes.. So, I cut out those splices and did the twist with shrink tubing. As I demonstrated previously, everything is inside or protected from water. I really don't think water or dampness has anything to do with what's going on.

Seatman, I believe at this point, I need to install the new brake switch which I ordered and received several days ago. And, yes, I understand that the clutch switch shouldn't have any effects on the issues I'm experiencing.

Lastly, if the new brake switch doesn't eliminate the problem, I believe it will be time to dig into those splices and connectors .......
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Old September 16th, 2018, 20:36   #20
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Anyway, someone inquired if I had used lead solder on the wiring splices ... Yes! So, they said the ECU doesn't like the resistance changes.
no way
there's two pin terminal connections, the carbon track resistor with a spring finger on it, and at the very least two solder connections inside the ECU
all that on each wire

it does not care about good splices
maybe wire nuts getting splashed with salt water from time to time, but solder ain't no thing to electrons (and lead free solder is only for water pipes in my head)
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Old September 16th, 2018, 23:06   #21
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I don't buy it either. The resistance of the solder between the wires is insignificant.
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Old September 18th, 2018, 05:47   #22
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Well, all I can say, is that I cut-out every splice that was soldered together and no more dead pedal issues like I've recently experienced. That was August, 2012.
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Old September 29th, 2018, 17:05   #23
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Okay ....... bringing this back to the top. (Although Scangauge is mentioned, I've been using VCDS also.)

Here's the deal: Seems the Accelerator pedal may be okay now "and" may not have totally been the problem. However, I did not re-install the one that supposedly went bad. (I'll do that tomorrow.)

Anyway, since August, 2012, from time-to-time there's been a an Implausible Signal relating to the Brake Switch. It's always gone away after a couple of restarts. Scan Gauge doesn't show that DTC for some reason. However, that DTC comes with the DTC for the Accelerator Pedal in combo with Flashing GP. So, when I scan with SG and deleted codes apparently the DTC for the Brake Switch is dumped too.

But, now, even with a brand new Brake Switch I cannot totally eliminate that Implausible Signal DTC. It may take two or three start-ups but the DTC for Implausible Signal from the Brake Switch will re-appear.

So, the Brake Switch is a double switch mechanism. Brake light part is normally Open and the Cruise Control part is normally closed. So, unless they are not closing and opening mighty darn close to the exact same time, the ECU is happy. Anyway, I know the old switch and the new switch are good... they are both exactly like the one Corey from Idparts shows how to install on a YouTube. I do know how to set the B switch when installing it. Adding a couple of layers of felt on the stop once set doesn't help with the issue at hand. Also, I did do several start-ups with pins 2 & 3 jumped on the brake switch. Those pins go to the normally closed switch. The ECU should have been happy with that but unfortunately, still got the same DTC.

So, this evening I did an Ohms check on all the circuits involved. I never found anything way off. In fact, all the circuits were about the same. I checked everything from the colored connectors back to the switches on both sides as well as the Clutch Switch for Cruise kick-out. However, from the colored connectors to the ECU, I did not do an Ohms test. But, other than re-bundling those wires for their new location they have remained intact and unmolested.

So, is it possible that the long distance from the Brake and Clutch Pedals in the Vanagon to under the rear seat possibly resulting in too much resistance? Keep in mind, the Brake Switch is just that, a switch with two leads that go all the way to the rear.

Lastly, not knowing the resistance limitations, I am stabbing in the dark.

Thoughts.
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Last edited by AndyBees; September 29th, 2018 at 17:08. Reason: Clarification
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Old September 30th, 2018, 20:02   #24
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So, is it possible that the long distance from the Brake and Clutch Pedals in the Vanagon to under the rear seat possibly resulting in too much resistance? Keep in mind, the Brake Switch is just that, a switch with two leads that go all the way to the rear.

Lastly, not knowing the resistance limitations, I am stabbing in the dark.

Thoughts.
The brake light side of the circuit is heavier wire for the 3 lights involved.
I can't see a problem there unless there was loose connection in one of the plugs or a very corroded wire. I would expect to see dim brake lights for this.

The cruise side sounds like a low power signal so a bad connection or the corroded wire might be more of a problem.

I never worked on my brake light switch, VW replaced it under a recall.
Do you have an old relay you could use to insert one of the pins into the brake light switch plug (one hole at a time obviously) to see if it's a tight fit?
Judgement call of it.
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Old October 1st, 2018, 07:36   #25
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Yeah, Wonneber, in my case, the ECU only monitors one brake light bulb. Considering for testing purposes, I am starting the engine without pushing down the brake pedal the ECU sees nothing. However, to be sure, I may add another light bulb just for the tests. But, this one bulb set-up seems to have worked okay. The DTC I'm getting now just will not go away. That's why I think it is with the Cruise Control circuit side of the brake switch.

Okay, as stated, I did jump the contacts for pins 2 & 3 which are for the Cruise. The wire I used for jumping was a tight fit. With the brake switch (pins 1 4) normally open, the ECU should be fine with that when just starting the engine. So, jumping pins 2 & 3 did not make a difference.

So, today, I am going to jump those two circuits (from pins 2 & 3) right at the source under the back seat where the ECU is located.

I'll post the results.
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Old October 1st, 2018, 12:07   #26
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Okay, from one of the branch circuits from Relay 109, power is provided to Fuse #43. On the down side (43a) power goes to a number of circuits, of which, one goes to the Cruise side of the Brake Switch (merely a switch). From there the current goes to the Black Connector at T10e/5 on to the ECU #65.

Quite simple-> 12 volts from Fuse #43 to ECU 65 with a switch in the middle that is normally closed... hint, touch the brake and the Cruise is kicked-out.

So, that's how I by-passed everything, 12 Volts to the T10e/5 circuit which goes directly to the ECU at #65.

NO CEL or Flashing GP with the By-pass after numerous shut-downs and re-starts (that's when the ECU monitors that circuit).

So, there is something going on in either the wire (and splices, two I think) to the Brake Switch or the wiring coming back (and splices, two I think) to T10e/5.

Thoughts? Would you start by eliminating the soldered splices?

Keep in mind, the wires (circuits) are all in cable bundles which are inside water proof conduit under the Van and come up under the back seat one end and up under the dash on the other end. Water contamination, in my opinion, is not the problem.
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Old October 1st, 2018, 12:43   #27
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Well, checked volts at the Black Connector circuit, which starts from Fuse 43 goes to the front of the Van to and through the Brake Switch... 12.79 volts (engine shut-down). Voltage at all other circuits nearby were 12.82 volts. So, I'm convinced it's not a voltage loss due to resistance. Besides the splices (two, one up front and one in the rear on each wire [up and back]) and three connectors, one at the Brake switch, one before the Black Connector and the Black Connector itself, I'm thinking one or more of the connectors may have considerable resistance at times due to mild corrosion.

Clean connectors ... is in order. Simply unplugging and re-plugging doesn't always solve the problem.

Anymore thoughts/comments are welcome!
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Old October 1st, 2018, 20:57   #28
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Thoughts? Would you start by eliminating the soldered splices?

Keep in mind, the wires (circuits) are all in cable bundles which are inside water proof conduit under the Van and come up under the back seat one end and up under the dash on the other end. Water contamination, in my opinion, is not the problem.
If the joints were clean and shiny when you soldered them I would thing they are all right. I've never had a problem with my soldered connections.

One of the very few things I liked from Radio Shack was their solder.
You did use rosin core solder, not acid core?
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Old October 1st, 2018, 21:54   #29
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Well, after using some DeoxIT on the connectors involved, the problem seems to be solved. After driving it about 15 miles, several re-starts and doing some scans, no DTCs. I could not see any corrosion on any of the pins or receptacles.

Hopefully, the problem is solved.
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Old October 3rd, 2018, 11:29   #30
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Gees! I let the Van sit from Monday evening until about an hour ago thinking the issues were behind me.

So, now the idle is at 1281 RPMs.

Scan Gauge shows no codes.

VCDS shows no codes.

I plugged-in the old Accelerator Pedal and it is dead as I thought. Then, I plugged-in another Accelerator Pedal and got the 1281 RPMs. The two good pedals do respond to acceleration. I've started and re-started numerous times with no change.

Lastly, Monday of this week, I did get a P1246

-Fuel Supply interrupted/faulty (from Ross-Tech website)
  • Fuel Tank (temporary) empty
  • Fuel Filter blocked
  • Air in Fuel System
Wiring and/or Connector(s) from/to Needle Lift Sensor (G80) faulty
Needle Lift Sensor (G80) faulty
Injection Pump faulty
------------
Air in the system was probably the reason for the 1246 DTC. I had removed the fuel pipe from the filter to the IP. Engine did start and idled a bit rough for a few seconds. I've driven the Van since then and been through all the start-ups and that DTC has not come back.

Thoughts...
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