Is it worth it? Car needs $2000 worth of work

OK, so until I have more details, here's the quick and dirty.

car: A3 Golf, TD (not TDi), 280,000km, 5spd, 1997.

It was brought into the shop yesterday (the VW dealer), and the verdict is it needs over $2000 dollars worth of work. I'll have the full list tomorrow, but as I recall it needs: New water pump, New radiator, New front pads, discs, and clean/replace sleaves/bolts, New rear struts (and everything related, it sounded like. Eg, strut bumpers, and some other stuff), and I think thats it.

From the VW dealer it was about 1000 in labour and 1000 in parts (canadian). I feel that I can do the brake rotor/pad replacement myself, but not bleeding the system (which should probably be done, if it wasn't on VW's list). Otherwise, I don't think I can take on the rest of the project, realistically.


So, I guess I have 2 questions. first, does this HAVE to be done by a VW dealer, or could an independent shop do it as well? And second, is it worth it?

We will probably be getting a new used car in a year or two anyway, but we've already replaced the clutch, TB, and exhaust except for the cat recently enough. The weld around the cat will go sooner rather than later however, so that's another thing to consider. The body is certainly not perfect.

Is it maybe best to just sell it as is and not sink any more money into it, or would it probably have a good life after these items are replaced? If it will still have a few years left in it, it would probably be kept in the family.

Anyhow, anyones 2 cents is appreciated, and I will get the full estimate tomorrow.

Thanks!
Niels

You don;t say where you're located. First, run from the stealership. Second, consider how much you willing or capable of doing yourself. Caliper and/or brake pad replacement are quite easy for most wrenchers. You can get a motive pressure bleeder and make the bleeding process nearly foolproof. Finally, if you don't like any of those options look in the TDI 101 thread for trusted mechanics by state. You'll be far better off regarding price and quality of service by using a trusted TDI mechanic.

Niels, I'd be bold and post your general location. Perhaps somebody in your area will be kind enough to direct you to your local TD(i) go-to person.

Take care.

Try http://www.vwdiesel.net/phpBB/ more people as TD car and maybe you'll find someone near you!

Where in the world are you ???

Most of the work can be done by a mechanically-inclined amateur...

Bleeding the brakes is easy if you have access to a power bleeder... lots of us have one... if we knew where you're located, we may be able to help...

The dealer is probably the most expensive way to maintain the vehicle...

Good luck,

Yuri.

PS: I would keep the car and fix as much of it myself as possible... you can order parts online for far less than the dealership charges...

I'm in Guelph, Ontario, about an hour from toronto. Everything I said in the original post has to be done, and to clarify the strusts and strut bumpers have to be replaced. I don't actually know what a strut bumper is...

Anyway, sounds like we might as well do it. The water pump apparently is pretty urgent (will it last a week..?), but the other stuff just sounds and feels bad. I would be willing to tackle the brakes (and if there is someone in the area who would be willing to give a hand that would be awesome! Obviously time is worth money)

Anyhow. Guelph. Thats where I am. Thanks for the responses! This info is always appreciated!

I'm in Guelph, Ontario, about an hour from toronto. Everything I said in the original post has to be done, and to clarify the strusts and strut bumpers have to be replaced. I don't actually know what a strut bumper is...

Anyway, sounds like we might as well do it. The water pump apparently is pretty urgent (will it last a week..?), but the other stuff just sounds and feels bad. I would be willing to tackle the brakes (and if there is someone in the area who would be willing to give a hand that would be awesome! Obviously time is worth money)

Anyhow. Guelph. Thats where I am. Thanks for the responses! This info is always appreciated!

The strut bumper is the urethane set of 'donuts' that fit on the strut rod. These increase the effective spring rate once the suspension has been compressed that far.

We need a picture of a tow truck towing a car away from a dealer$' $ervice department. Maybe with smoke billowing from the trucks' tires to show the urgency of leaving it far, far behind.

Hey! My question was is it ESSENTIAL for the VeeDub dealer to do any of this? I'd like to avoid them as much as anyone else; I know their prices are rediculous.

Thanks for all the responses.

I've done some minor work on the car (biggest thing was replace one engine mount). I wonder how much of this I should tackle

Is is NOT essential for the VW dealer to do anything except roll in your money...

Dealer essential items: Reflashing your computer with VW updates. Warranty that you don't want to pay for.

Everything else can be done by someone else.

Oh, they would like to roll in your money as well, but that was already mentioned.

Thanks everyone. Ok, so this week we'll have an independent shop do the rad and water pump (realistically this makes the most sense, although it will be quite expensive!). Then probably the weekend after next I'd like to go at the brakes and struts. The brakes can wait, but the struts feel bad when driving the car. Do you think it will be ok to wait that long on them, or can you not say without seeing them?

Also, what about the fancy VW antifreeze G11/12 whatever. Does that have to be put in, or is whatever the independent has sufficient?

Thanks again, this is a priceless resource!

The VW antifreeze that's in the car now (I hope) must not be mixed with any "normal" antifreeze !!!! I'm guessing that your car has G11 in it (there should be a sticker somewhere... else check the owners' manual)... The newest VW coolant (G12 Plus) _is_ compatible with it, but make sure that the mechanic knows about this!!!!

Good luck,

Yuri.

Since the water pump and rad are getting replaced, I assume there will be a coolant flush and replace?

As soon as they remove either radiator hose the coolant will gush out, so lets hope so !

The independent guy (who specializes in Volvo's), said he had the G11 coolant, the proper coolant. Is that likely? He seems trustworthy and does a good job apparently, as my dad has brought his Volvo 850 there a number of times.