Name that homemade tool!!!

werewolf said:

http://pics.tdiclub.com/data/uploads//55264/IMG_12782.JPG

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can you place a coin beside those to help determine scale ?

werewolf, i'm gonna throw a wild guess that's prob wrong.... mkiv control arm bushing press tools ?

http://pics.tdiclub.com/data/uploads//55264/IMG_03261.JPG
http://pics.tdiclub.com/data/uploads//55264/IMG_03281.JPG



Bingo!

runonbeer said:

I always give those a little pop with a hammer and they spin right out with a regular old wrench.

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sure, I bet they spin right out....on cars living below the rust belt

GTiTDi said:

sure, I bet they spin right out....on cars living below the rust belt

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Try it!

jimbote said:

werewolf, i'm gonna throw a wild guess that's prob wrong.... mkiv control arm bushing press tools ?

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I have a somewhat similar "homemade" solution for this. An ALH big roller that I pressed apart. So the outer steel ring that the belt rides on backs up the arm on the press bed and the bearing/hub is exactly the right size to press in a bushing. I'll snap a pic next time I do some bushings.

I use an old wheel bearing race to press them out.

runonbeer said:

I have a somewhat similar "homemade" solution for this. An ALH big roller that I pressed apart. So the outer steel ring that the belt rides on backs up the arm on the press bed and the bearing/hub is exactly the right size to press in a bushing. I'll snap a pic next time I do some bushings.

I use an old wheel bearing race to press them out.

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nice!... at the shop there is an old tray beside the press full of various "odds and ends" including some old bearing races

Yup, bearing races. I used one from a front wheel bearing to augment my rear axle bushing tool: the tool was for a stock bushing- I'd bought Cupra Rs, and after destroying one of them discovered that I needed to add more depth, hence the bearing race.

Going to remember to save a large TB roller! (I actually have these and a bunch of bits sitting around in a metal recycling container that never seems to get emptied.)

Any guesses?

I know one of them is a quarter dollar

Ha! yes indeed...only to show scale however. Even though I seldom would use these, I've grown tired of using sockets, washers, longer bolts to move the steel bushings on the alternator and AC compressor for easy install.




The threaded hole was just for storage...that's a metalnerd trick

Nothing new here, but I had to do it.

$6.00 Ozone 12 Point 15/16" Socket modified to fit the end plug of a Bosch Injection Pump. (Three ground out round and three left flat..[Dremel in about an hour])



Below, checking fitment on an old IP..



Below, plug out

Dave, easiest way is to put the bolt in loose by a turn or two and smack it with a hammer. It pushes the slider back just fine.

TDIDaveNH said:

Ha! yes indeed...only to show scale however. Even though I seldom would use these, I've grown tired of using sockets, washers, longer bolts to move the steel bushings on the alternator and AC compressor for easy install.


The threaded hole was just for storage...that's a metalnerd trick

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nice work TDIDave... and Andy i have that socket but in impact form

Jimbote, I was lucky to have found one in this neck of the woods. I went thru all of my old tool boxes, my dad's tools and looked high and low without luck. Then, I said what the heck, and jumped in the Vanagon and drove to the local Ozone (Autozone) and low and behold, they had one, but not an impact.

Anyway, it worked...

jimbote said:

nice work TDIDave... and Andy i have that socket but in impact form

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The steel on impact sockets is way softer so easier to grind

oldpoopie said:

Dave, easiest way is to put the bolt in loose by a turn or two and smack it with a hammer. It pushes the slider back just fine.

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If it is not heavily corroded. If there is no room to swing a hammer like on a BEW Beetle alternator, the sockets and bolt is the way.

They tend to let out a loud crack, at least the alternator does when socking them down during install which makes me quite reticent about using a hammer on a bolt passed through the opposing hole. Even more so on one that was just rebuilt.

TDIDaveNH said:

They tend to let out a loud crack, at least the alternator does when socking them down during install which makes me quite reticent about using a hammer on a bolt passed through the opposing hole. Even more so on one that was just rebuilt.

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yep, i broke the ear off a perfectly good alternator installing after retracting the sleeves too far ... i do give them a little tap when removing.. if the sleeves are really crusty i fully extract them using a socket and bolt (like the tool above) clean em up and reinstall

AndyBees said:

Jimbote, I was lucky to have found one in this neck of the woods. I went thru all of my old tool boxes, my dad's tools and looked high and low without luck. Then, I said what the heck, and jumped in the Vanagon and drove to the local Ozone (Autozone) and low and behold, they had one, but not an impact.
Anyway, it worked...

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ozone! hah!

oldpoopie said:

The steel on impact sockets is way softer so easier to grind

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yep, exactly

jimbote said:

yep, i broke the ear off a perfectly good alternator installing after retracting the sleeves too far ..

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Ditto...

Wow guys I guess I’m pampered in corrosion free PNW

Typically, the bushing only needs to move less than a millimeter to allow easy installation. Thus, a couple of light taps should be sufficient in most cases. But, like the OP of the subject stated, using sockets, washers and a bolt to do the job gets a bit old...... So, I'll be looking to do one of those home-made tools!

Cut it in 2:





Make some holes:





Grind it to take the rust out:



Pretty drive shaft bolts:





Paint it black because with another color it would always look dirty:



Been using it for some years now, never failed me.

k_pt, that is hard angle iron if it is what I think it is, bed rail! Great work!

Okay, here are my latest Home Made Tools (see pic below)
These are to assist in rebuilding a transmission to replace the one in my ALH Vanagon.

The wooden thingy is used to sit the gear carrier in to be placed in a press to remove shafts, etc. It is a hell of lot cheaper than the German Peisler brand.

The top left metal piece is the cog from an ALH water pump machined to use as a bearing press.
The second item is a milled down big idler used to press-in the diff bearing race (works perfect)
The third item is also a milled down big idler used to press-out the diff bearing race
The gear is damaged but fits perfect on the splines of the Pinion Shaft to hold it in a Vice while using the tool next to it
The shiny tool with the little catches is used to remove the Pinion retainer/race which requires the use of the Gear Cog beside it
Both of those items need handle welded on.

The two pieces of angle iron are placed on top of the wooden thing to remove the bearings from a Diff.