Timing belt.

I have a 96 Passat with 1z, is there an option to put a 100k mile timing belt on it? Id parts only shows 60k mile belt.

VW never developed the 100k setup for Mk3/B4. Only one is a 60k change interval.

The 100k setup was only for Mk4 cars.

Steve

my understanding is the 100k belt is longer or something like that...not reverse compatible to the MK3s...I could be wrong...

The only belt (as above) rated for 100k miles is on the ALH.

The AHU / 1Z is only rated for 60k miles.

PD engines are somewhere in between - 80k miles last time I checked, or at least that's the interval I use on my BHW passat.

0die said:

my understanding is the 100k belt is longer or something like that...not reverse compatible to the MK3s...I could be wrong...

Click to expand...

IIRC belt lengths go something like this:

AAZ/1Z/AHU - 137 teeth
ALH - 141
PD - 120

Steve

NO. stick with quality belts and change it every 70-80K. it takes me 30 minutes to change mine on my 1z. my oil changes take longer than that!

Mongler98 said:

NO. stick with quality belts and change it every 70-80K. it takes me 30 minutes to change mine on my 1z. my oil changes take longer than that!

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60K is the change intervals for the belts on the A3/B4. And I've done dozens of B4/A3 timing belts, if you're changing a timing belt in 30 minutes you're skipping a whole bunch of steps and taking risky shortcuts.

Abacus said:

60K is the change intervals for the belts on the A3/B4. And I've done dozens of B4/A3 timing belts, if you're changing a timing belt in 30 minutes you're skipping a whole bunch of steps and taking risky shortcuts.

Click to expand...

right/ 60K, my bad
well unless you have other things to work on, it does not take more then 30 minutes to change the belt if its ONLY the belt. When i changed mine for the first time i gaked up a oil seal on it and i had to change the belt again, that took me 20 minutes.

granted if im changing the belt im doing a few other things and inspecting stuff and that takes about 2 hours. But 60K is about 1 year of driving for me so i end up doing it alone and im down to 30 minutes.

Abacus said:

60K is the change intervals for the belts on the A3/B4. And I've done dozens of B4/A3 timing belts, if you're changing a timing belt in 30 minutes you're skipping a whole bunch of steps and taking risky shortcuts.

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Probably just human nature. Most off the cuff estimated are usually off by 100% or more.

I agree that just changing the timing belt is setting your self up for a timing failure because when you have a timing failure it is not the T/B that fails, it's usually one of the components the T/B rides on. (roller, water pump, tensioner etc.)

I rarely change the water pump unless it needs it, but I always do the roller and tensioner, which do not add any significant time to the job.

Let's see...

Disconnect CCV hose to puck
Disconnect CCV heater to intake pipe
Remove 3 bolts to valve cover, remove valve cover
Jack up vehicle, remove front wheel
Loosen 4 bolts on crank pulley
Remove accordion hose from air cleaner to turbo
Remove center bolt to upper timing belt cover, undo 2 clips, remove upper timing belt cover
Loosen 2 bolts in power steering housing, remove v-belt
Hold serpentine belt tensioner out of the way, remove serpentine belt
Remove 4 crank pulley bolts, remove power steering pulley and harmonic balancer
Remove 2 lower 10mm nuts and upper 10mm nut on lower timing belt cover
Remove the lower timing belt cover.
Set TDC verifying all 3 locations are locked (I install locks)
Loosen timing belt tensioner nut
Remove old timing belt
Loosen cam bolt, use punch to separate from cam, remove pulley
Remove cam seal
Remove top roller
Remove tensioner
Install cam seal
Install tensioner but do not tighten
Install top roller, torque to spec
Route new belt onto crank & IP
Install belt on cam pulley, put on cam, install but leave bolt loose
Remove IP lock
Tension the tensioner, torque
Counterhold cam pulley, torque cam bolt
Remove locks & verify still at TDC
Rotate twice by hand
Verify still at TDC
Bump start
Install lower timing belt cover, to include 2 lower and 1 upper nuts
Put harmonic balancer & power steering pulley on crank sprocket, get bolt holes correct
Install 4 bolts into crank pulley, torque
Install valve cover & 3 nuts, torque
Install CCV and CCV heater hoses & clamps
Install serpentine belt, set tensioner
Install v-belt, tension
Tighten bolts to power steering pump
Install wheel
Lower car off jack

Loosen all but 1 IP bolts
Hook up VCDS
Start car
Loosen last IP bolt and adjust timing
Tighten IP bolt
Turn off car
Tighten all remaining IP bolts, torque
Install upper timing belt cover, center bolt, 2 clips
Install accordion hose
End

I highly doubt you can do all that in 30 minutes.

I memorized the bolt sizes and torque specs so it'll go faster and I can't come close to 1/2 hour. I spend more time going over the engine, to include removing the cam and checking the lifters, but it's not a lot more time for the peace of mind.

Sorry, but I'm just not buying it, not even on my cars with threads that are chased, anti-seize most places, and no rust holding up the parts.

with these water pumps i always change it with belt, they usually also have a life of about 60k or 6years. makes it easier all around. -oh and about then fresh coolant isnt a bad idea.
a comprehensive list, the first part of the list maybe is missing at least one step, a new IM shaft seal, and o-ring. when needed a crank seal, that requires a flange gasket, and a new crank bolt. and tools to install(bolt). on the older cars a crank seal would be changed more regularly, like every timing belt would be advised. these cars i dont see that, but it must be checked, and now is the time to do it.
for the second part of the list, your just missing the fact after starting car, it ll need to warm up, to about, at least 80dg C, for VCDS to read.
oh yea and after final timing adjustment of pump, loosen all 8 injector line connections, retighten.
didnt someone post not too long ago one of those *complete timing kits? it was everything youd need to do a complete timing job, and youd end up having parts left over it was so many. like every stud you also would need to complete the job.

iluvmydiesels said:

with these water pumps i always change it with belt, they usually also have a life of about 60k or 6years. makes it easier all around. -oh and about then fresh coolant isnt a bad idea.

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The coolant is supposed to be lifetime, and I had a bad rash of new water pumps, and not the cheap variety, about 10 years ago that caused me to change my thinking on the water pumps. Since that time I have yet to do a water pump a second time, with some still going strong over 200,000 miles. They can be changed without removing the timing belt but honestly, doing the timing belt is so easy I never found the need.

a comprehensive list, the first part of the list maybe is missing at least one step, a new IM shaft seal, and o-ring.

Click to expand...

I rarely have to change the IM shaft seal. I have had a few weeping oil but like the crank seal, if it's not leaking, I don't mess with it since it can create more problems down the road that didn't exist prior.

when needed a crank seal, that requires a flange gasket, and a new crank bolt. and tools to install(bolt). on the older cars a crank seal would be changed more regularly, like every timing belt would be advised. these cars i dont see that, but it must be checked, and now is the time to do it.

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There is no 'checking' the crank seal or bolt. They get replaced if they are suspect. It's an easy job and I've done my fair share. If the timing is moving, and it's easy to check with the timing belt lock tools, then it gets replaced and only adds another 10 minutes to the timing belt job.

for the second part of the list, your just missing the fact after starting car, it ll need to warm up, to about, at least 80dg C, for VCDS to read.
oh yea and after final timing adjustment of pump, loosen all 8 injector line connections, retighten.

Click to expand...

I never warm up the car and have not found the need. VCDS does read the timing regardless of temperature and I have not had it move much when setting the timing cold. If it's out of spec a lot I'll adjust the pump and then do a final check when warm but it doesn't move that much to warrant a second adjustment. I did not include releasing the tension on the IP hard lines, you're correct about that and it's definitely preferred.

didnt someone post not too long ago one of those *complete timing kits? it was everything youd need to do a complete timing job, and youd end up having parts left over it was so many. like every stud you also would need to complete the job.

Click to expand...

I bought one of those kits once but ended up with so many spare parts it wasn't worth the extra. I keep a TON of spare parts on hand (some are NLA now as well) to counter anything that should arise, with some reason. I've even had people travel hours to get a part from me on a Sunday when they ran into issues.